I really respect your philosophy for this project. I generally care about prototypical accuracy and history etc. but there's a large degree that this holds back the hobby artistically and culturally. Seeing a project push back against the 'basement empire' as the ideal of modelling is fantastic
So I play battletech. I also really like the scenery of model railroading. I've wanted to combine them do I have a duel purpose board. And I've wanted to do a hex grid with z gauge. So I'm happy someone has done this and I finally found this video.
i always thought Kato's diorama boards were too small this is a good idea, and i agree about how modelling can take over space, and the modular approach means that each element gets "finished", in a similar vein some UK modellers are creating individual layouts in box files that can be linked together!
This is an intriguing idea! This scratches a number of my itches - I like the idea that I need not "fill-in" large amounts of empty space: it gives my imagination permission to fill-in the empty surrounding areas. I've subscribed to see where you take this!
I've recently come to the conclusion that I need a larger track area to non-track area ratio in my layout. I'm playing around with ideas for benchwork and track plans that will give this. This novel system has possibilities.
Doing something similar with G scale outside. Have a little gravel bed that I use modular plastic track with and battery locos. Everything can be easily moved/changed every time if I want to.
I really like the module idea; especially for small spaces, but even just so you can "change the layout up" I believe modules are / can be a lot of fun. you might reconsider using a t-trak like module. My thought would be you could run a "half-size" t-trak module (so 154mm? or so) wide, and I believe they can be as narrow as 8" deep. This way, if you snapped two of the custom modules together, they could be connected with a t-trak layout as well. I like the hexes for the straights, but the odd shapes for the corners may not work out as well. For the loop they will work well I believe (I'm no engineer) but if you did one curve module into a straight, into another curve (something we would want to do with modules) it will get wonky. one option is to lay it out in something like AnyRail, and then create the layout objects to 'overlay' onto various track configurations to see if they work. in any case - I love it - being able to have a changing layout on a desktop of 30" x 72" is really great, and lets you complete a whole number of mini-scenes. Definitely following along ;)
Good idea. I got into railroading in 2017. I had the same issues. I like the modeling. I liked finished sections. I like history, but I don’t need to know every detail of railroad history and I am not a rivet counter. I decided to use the Bachman’s Era One locomotives like the John Bull, Prussia, and Lafayette from the 1830’s. I model in the 1915 era in HO scale. These engine look like narrow gauge, but they are just standard gauge. I also went Remote control on dead rail. My modules were 14 x 24, but I have abandoned the module for track sections and scenery element that can be placed anywhere. I can set up on a table, or floor, really anywhere. My scenery elements are completely finished. I even have jars of sifted sand and dirt to “fill” the gaps temporarily to give a more realistic transition. Keep up what your doing. I am interested to see how your system progresses.
I have only been considering this hobby all my life. But I've always had no space to do it in the conventisl way as you have made clear. I love modular appraches to most products. I have been thinking just lately how I can start this hobby before I'm too old, can manage it on a small budget, it lityle space. I came to the same conclusion you have made. It has the same advantages and which work for tablegames that use hex maps for figurines, like Dungeons and Dragons.. Now having found your video I'm all ears and thanks for letting me listen to how well it can or can't work for you.
Very interesting idea, I will be following along. By the way, S scale modeling of narrow gauge railroads of 20 to 24 inches can use N scale track. Here in the US, we typically use HOn3 track, but most of the rest of the world uses N gauge track. Narrow gauge equipment will look really good with your design. I like the coach, and the figure goes well with it.
Thanks! Yeah, Sn2 I believe? I have a whole narrow gauge train modeled up, you can see the locomotive and an ore car in the preview image for the next video I uploaded. So far I have the locomotive, 3 ore cars, a flat car, the coach and a caboose.
This is very good on a number of levels. Thanks for posting it! Keep us posted! If I were doing this I'd stick to one size of a true hexagon only, no :rectangular ones. I'd figure out the size from the curve, then use the same size for the straights. But your mileage may vary.
I like your concept. I’m one of those prototype modelers. But I’m open to new ideas and approaches. Yours is intriguing. Good luck with it. The challenge will be to use the area to successfully convey your ideas. More space is not necessarily better. It’s about vision and execution. I can’t wait to see what you do.
Nice idea. Looking forward to see what kind of layout develops, if any. I’m working on shadow box dioramas that can hang on the wall and showcase a single piece of rolling stock or a bus.
I love ideas that are un-conventional. It is inspirering. I was planning to have my layout in parts. I don't care for scenery I like running trains. But I have artist friends that would love to make scnery. And module of hexagons seems possible.
I've been thinking of something similar as well since I'm an avid model railroader myself but I live in an apartment so I don't have much space to work with. What I would do, and I've seen another gentleman from Japan do it, is to make baseboards much like the ones that you have but make then about 6-8" wide and fit them to the standard lengths of straight and curved track that kato has. It would be a lot like setting up a loop of Kato unitrack but just a bit wider so that you could do some scenery off to the sides of it.
Really interesting idea! Personally I'm happy with T-Trak, but I definitely agree with your criticism - it takes a lot of space to store the modules, and a lot of free table space just to build a simple oval.
Request: Could you please post the dimensions for both the straight and corner modules along with the KATO Unitrack part numbers. Thank you. (These smaller HEXAGON will work better for 3d printing at my local library.). 😃
interesting. my trains are really just a fun way to add movement to my fantasy scenery that is mostly built of found bits of molded cardboard packaging, and bits of dead plant foliage, and whatever else catches my interest.
I think the math works out to be something like 22.5 inch gauge, so it would probably be called Sn2, Calling it Sn22,5 would be more accurate, but I can't see that catching on. Great video!
I like that! A lot! Have just subbed so I won't miss anything. Question: Have you laser cut those panels or are they available online? Just from what I have seen in this first video, I am ready to start building also!
Thanks! I'm going to take the project a bit further and make sure that I like the way everything is playing together. If that ends up being the case, I will make the measurements and files available 👍
There is a big issue that the turns are not even hexagons. Better make them all the same. And something to accomodate junctions. Maybe you will have to stock on flex...
The turns are hexagons, with all the angles at 30°. The fact that I elongated one set of parallel sides shouldn’t be an issue really, but if you’re anticipating something definitely let me know! The important part to me was to keep the track terminating at the center of the sides.
@@TabletopRailroad you will have trouble running a straight near a turn, for example. Because these hexes are of a different length. This may arise when making a station or tracks nearby. Also maybe when fitting a turn inside another turn or making a junction.
So I'd size all hexes to the size of a turn. Then, when necessary, esp for junctions, would introduce multi-hex modulesb or use some of these small radius junctions with flex if needed. Honestly i now want to make some modules like this to connect to my layout @@TabletopRailroad
@@airworks7809 Hmm, yeah i'm not to worried about the bits of negative space. I have tested out quite a few layouts that interest me and haven't had an issue that adding another straight here or there didn't fix. drive.google.com/file/d/1PWBH5lHc164nBm3F6tmJfFTjHpnxq6d5/view?usp=drive_link It certainly won't make every layout possible, but again its just an experiment. I have already designed some double/triple modules that I can work a turnout, or even switching puzzle onto. I can foresee making some bigger modules for just scenery as well, such as that negative space in the oval of the image I shared.
@@airworks7809 I experimented with having all the modules be the same size, but I don't think they can be with hexagons and Unitrak. Not when you need the track to terminate in the center of a side.
I think its an interesting idea. I think you need to rethink the size of your base hexs. It would be more appealing if all the hex pieces were the same size
I appreciate that sentiment, uniform hexes is what I wanted when I first thought of the idea. Unfortunately I just don’t think it’s possible within the constraints of Unitrack. Not when the curve has to be 60° and I need all of the track to terminate at the center of a side. I’m pleased with how these lay out though, I think it will serve my needs.
I'm making an N-scale on a door (3x7) which fits under my bed if needed. If you "don't like trains in any way", why is your channel called Tabletop Railroad?
