Modeling Realistic Model Railroad Terrain | Boomer Diorama ~ # 257 

Hey Boomer It’s looking great. You know I have noticed the exact same thing with my static grass applicator. Weird that. I remember you talking quite awhile ago about being into OO British at one time .. was that a commission build or your own layout? I still have a bunch of my old OO stuff Cheers

OMG! A RU-vid channel with good background music! ❤

I finally used my new (got it in February) airbrush to paint and weather some bottle cars for a blast furnace at my local RR club. I used Tamiya, IPA, and 40 psi. All three turned out very well. Thank you Boomer! You truly provide a masterclass every week.

Dear Boomer, simply beautiful how the manicured lawn came out. Do agree on what you said about the static grass applicators. Only a slight change in humidity will affect the results. Plus, the longer the static grass strands, the static load can and will affect the strands to kind of intermingle, which increases the effect of the strands to lay down. Hence, pinching above 7mm is also my preferred method. In fact only the static plate is truly capable to stand up static strands above 7mm all the time. But that’s only working for making tufts. As said before in several of my comments, using Matte Medium as a scenic adhesive is indeed a game changer. Love the flexibility and elasticity of Matte Medium, during the glue process, whilst drying and after its fully dried. Also, the fact that IPA dissolves Matte Medium very easily, creates all kinds of opportunities for tweaking scenic features after the finished fact. Adding to that particular capability, ballasting turnouts with Matte Medium is indeed a breeze. Just like you said, a little IPA is instrumental in getting rid of any sticky or gunked up moving parts or points. Like you’ve shown before, using Matte Medium for glueing ballast also helps to create the scenic quality around the throw bar much better than PVA does. Where PVA seems to follow the normal characteristics of the water hygroscopy, which makes it ‘creep’ upwards. Matte Medium to me seems to be more capable to contain and control such action, especially around indentations. Further, the elasticity with which Matte Medium dries up, makes it a much better adhesive for glueing ballast on the acoustic scale. It won’t create the acoustic coupling PVA creates, whether used on cork or foam roadbed. Matte Medium creates a much better sound separation between the foundational layer and the scenic layer of the model railroad. Cheerio

I see you use a pin to close the electric circuit with the static grass applicator, why not the thing which comes with the applicator?

Just to plug another channel Luke Towen made an excellent video on making a static grass applicator which I followed but then upgraded with components off Amazon. I find they always work better if they are connected to the mains electricity supply rather than off a battery. Mr Boomer that just looks amazing, one of my favorite tasks is the ballasting and static grass areas and if I had one piece of advice to people it is to really take your time and NOT RUSH this process ! I have seen so many potentially awesome layouts ruined by rushed ballasting (if that's a term) Hard to teach patients but that is the key. I really cannot emphasize that enough. Cheers.

I like my Static King. But the WS's mini vac thingy. Not so much. Save your money on that.

There's always a favorite and least favorite patch on a layout. The challenge is to go back to the least favorite and make it your favorite. Redo or add new layers, it's all part of the game/hobby. Great update. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and Cheers - Larry.

Love your work Boomer, I starting working on small areas of my lay out now like you said and now I'm making head way instead of trying to do the whole lay out at once and not making any head way. I noticed your switch stands If you don't mind what make are they?

Another good one. I learn something every time! Thanks.

Loving using matte medium. Great music too. Wondering what 1970’s adult film did you get it from?😁

The track nearest the edge of the scene is interesting . When we rehabbed rail crossings, especially industrial tracks we would pull rail 50 feet both sides of the crossing. Wed rip out old asphalt and material.New rail for the crossing was welded prior to installation then placed on new ties. Ballasting and surfacing would start past the new work making for a distinct demarcation between old ballast on the main and new on the crossing beginning and ending about 75-100 feet before and after the crossing. If the crossing was rebuilt prior to line rehab they would actually rise and fall going over the crossing until the whole line was rehabbed. My point is the narrow bed of new ballast looks like that part of your crossing had seen maintenance. Cheers Brother. Don't forget to put new line on your rod and reel.

Great look, and vid, as always. How long do you let your static grass dry on the Matt medium before you begin to use the vac? And are you using just a small shop vac?

Maybe you have mentioned it before, but where do you get your limestone for ballast? Love Duncan Way crossing, never seen better!!

Super fantastic work👍🏻

Hi Boomer, would denatured alcohol work as good as IPA?

[ thank, you for youre great helpful video]

I’ve learned a lot from your videos. Especially the Tamiya paint and airbrushing. I’ve found that you are spot on with the tamiya and alcohol. Makes a world of difference

Boomer? My I use a clip or photo of the DPM kit “Humble Home” on my next video when I’m finished with the same kit by your motivational inspiration?

You´re so true about those few inches mini scenes. That grass is a full story universe. A bus stop sign, a public waste can, a bench, a few peoples waiting their bus, mister grass mowing it etc... how about two grass lenght being mowed ? I don´t know if grass application in 2 steps is the best. Doing the short, covering it in a straight line then add longer one beside ? Bushes, flowers, trees, so many almost infinite add on to such a mini scene. Thanks Boomer for your great art.

Beautiful job , Boomer!!!! Will the 40 matt medium/60 water with couple of drops of dishwashing liquid mix work for N Scale as well? Just curious, I'm using it on Peco code 55 rail. Love your teachings, Dude. The results are awesome. Bruce in Minnesota

Great tips...thank you!

Small bites at a time sage advice.

Replied to a few comments on applicators prior to watching all the video, but I'll add to those comments... The WS "Static King" or whatever applicator you're using can be improved by modifying it with a metal screen. Applicators work best with the charging surface (in this case the metal screen) being closest to the grass fibers as possible. My first ever applicator was the first generation Noch applicator, with nylon mesh screens. One issue that hampered the result was that the first Noch applicators were horribly under powered. But an equally important issue was the nylon screen and no charging plate in the cannister itself. My guess is that both the original Noch and WS applicators use nylon or plastic for safety reasons. They don't hold a charge, so you're not going to get zapped. Probably good for those that have pacemakers too. As someone else mentioned, Luke Towan's tutorials on making your own are excellent... But I get why most guys wouldn't want to tackle that. So if you're one of those guys, try to find a commercial applicator that has a metal screen. You stand a higher chance of getting a good jolt if you don't ground it out after using it, but it'll work a lot better.

Boomer, great video, thank you for sharing. I am one of those that build my own static grass applicator, and it works great - battery or mains. Now having said that when I get it out again soon, it will fail miserably. I have jinxed myself. Great tip on working on a small section at a time, it certainly takes the "OMG" out of the layout work. The grass next to the overpass looks superb, great job. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael

Thanks again for another great video with very useful information. I glad I'm not the one who has that experience with static grass. Yes. Sometimes it's great, sometimes its%&==××.

Really good work good job

Another great video!

The embedded track section is looking very convincing. I make my own grass matts out of poly fill quilt batting by de layering the sections of sheets and stretching thin like cobwebs. I paint it with Krylon's Fusion Matte Spanish Moss and apply different colors and textures of scenic turf. It can be laid in place over existing scenery. It adds some 3 dimensional depth and textures to otherwise flat terrain and the existing surface below can easliy be blended in or left exposed to show through. It's a great way to cover large or small area's instantly. I've been wanting to get a static grass applicator to try out. I really look forward to each of your new episodes, now that I cut the cord to cable. Hopefully you can produce longer or more content episodes. It's a long week otherwise. Did you take my advice about acquiring a multi tool? You mentioned something about it being a rotary tool. A multi tool isn't a Dremel tool. It's a freehand oscillating tool that cuts wood, drywall, tile, plastics, and metal without making a dust mess. It's like a hand held saw a surgeon would use. It's like a free hand saw for a carpenter as a paintbrush is to an artist. It can make plunge cuts without needing a pilot hole. It's the only tool you need besides a cordless drill. Google oscillating multi tools. Dewalt makes a cordless version that uses the same battery as their drill.

Boomer, I like the very small plastic applicator containers that I have bought on Amazon. They hold about 3 to 5 times as much liquid as your dropper but they have a very small opening and I can control the flow into very small areas. I have no problems with points getting glued shut at all. I use Elmers glue 60% water to 40% glue and have had no problems ever. For those that are in fear, if you have the area saturated with wetting liquid, you can place the glue on the outsides of the track and it will flow into the middle just like you say. If the glue doesn't flow and stands up on the top of the ballast, you have not gotten the ballast wet enough. I mix my 60-40 glue in a mustard squeeze plastic bottle and then refill the applicator when necessary. Also i will shake the master bottle every time I come into the train room as this keeps the liquid from seperating.

Hey Boomer, Want to say thank you. Learned some great things: the Vallejo + water thing, IPA + Tamiya, matte medium and a lot of motivation scratchbuilding or kitbashing. Greetings from Germany

Very good vlog Boomer, I had the static grass you used and never got it to work right, even bought the power accessory. So times you get a lemon. I did buy a Noch and it works great. I also use a flocking box that I use a lot. You are so right about smaller areas, Demons crop up when you least expect it. Thanks for all you do and share. As you say "cheers"

Boomer, That new patch of grass looks like a model of my front lawn. I went back and watched the static application again. That static grass went on as sweet as. Your right, why does'nt it come out like that everytime? One of the worlds big mysteries.. Cheers, Chris Perry

Hi Boomer & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Boomer & Friends Randy

Looks real

I always drench the throw rod area with Labelle plastic compatible oil before gluing ballast there.

That's looking great boomer..thanks for the update..👍

Cheers

Please

It's hard to see the difference from real or model, in some of the pictures. Well done!

Had a long talk with Martin Wellberg at Amherst back in January. Yes. Room humidity is a shockingly big contributor as most non industrial units are going to struggle to get a good static field built up if the room is damp.He suggested a dehumidifier. On top of the other things like using a big deliberately mangled Round Brush for glue application, which when stamped straight down applies the glue in hundreds of tiny splotches that look like tufts when the static grass is applied. But takes longer since ideally you are doing. 1. Pass 2mil dry/dead grass 2.Pass 2mil live grass 3. Pass 4mil/6mil live/dead grass. 5. Stab in anything bigger.

Perfect timing. I'm about to put down some dirt and static grass. Thanks.

Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed this one too.

Another great video Boomer!

My favorite ballast glue dispenser is a good-quality condiment bottle. It's one of those plastic bottles with the cone-shaped spout and cap-the ones that diners sometimes use-at least they do in the US. You can dispense a single drop or a very accurately controlled stream. When streaming, you can pour along the track's center or edge with deadly accuracy and not get a drop on the rail. Nice video, Rob

Stunning work!

good vid

TY Sir....