Excellent work! All clear explains. I would like to know details about the controller, battery and where to buy the motor, controller and additional modules for my car?
Hi Dr. Thanks a great deal for taking the time to share this. I never understand why people take the time to mark a Thumbs down with someone sharing their experience. lol. Will be subscribing and looking back at the rest of your video's. Thanks once again. G
Yes it has been up and running for several years now. We’ve had to replace the controller and are revising the battery pack right now secondary to one of the batteries feeling completely but otherwise it is doing well.
the friction plates on the clutch press against the machined surface of the flywheel to transmit the power from the motor to the transmission. If you lose the flywheel then the pressure plates have nothing to "grab" onto. So the clutch, which is used to disengage the pressure plates, won't be doing anything. If you get rid of the flywheel then you will have to have a direct connection to the transmission some how. Many people do this. I just like having the clutch as a safety feature.
It is possible, but because of gearing and RPM limitations of the motor, the top speed would be about 20 mph. Or, if you took the gears the other direction for a top speed of 50-60 mph then acceleration from a dead stop would be very slow and require a tremendous amp load. The transmission gives you leverage at a variety of speeds and motor RPMs.
Why not get rid of all that ancient clutch-transmission thing, and power the axis directly. The motor can handle it, the axis can handle it, the efficiency rises rapidly and you have much more control over the vehicle...
I challenge you to find a hub motor that is large enough and has a central bearing that is strong enough to handle the weight of a car and the forces applied to the front wheels when turning right or left under acceleration. Many companies have put out press released claiming to have a motor coming soon, but so far none are available for purchase. I have seen a 8 wheeled hub driven vehicle from japan that was custom made but the motors are not available. If you find one let me know.
Great job! And even better to see someone active and answering questions, even after a year! I'm Hoping to start my own conversion in the next year. I will be back to ask some myself :)
Umm yeah sorry I thought my sarcasm was obvious enough. I know how a clutch works. But you spelled lose and loose, which everyone does and it annoys me especially when they pretentiously use quotes for words that may not quite sound proper enough.
After driving the car with and without the clutch I can say that the clutch is not just a luxury but an essential safety feature. Trying to shift with out the clutch in traffic is slow, cumbersome, and dangerous. It also adds a quick disconnect between the motor and the drive train in an emergency.
Nice and exact build. What I don't get is why every conversion I see is using the same type small diameter(originally for high speed) motors and always with the original transmission. If you had a larger diameter rotor you wouldn't need half the amps to get the same torque, and the transmission could ideally be thrown out(or at least modified). In stock electric cars only the rotor are usually as big as these motors I see everyone is putting into their conversions, just because they're the easiest to find or some "expert" are pushing them as the best option. Please somebody , think for yourself, don't just do what everybody else do.
It depends what you mean by economical. To buy or to use. So far because they are the norm, the kind you use tend to be cheaper, but they don't give you the best economy, unless you gear them down at low (ground)speeds. An electric motor with enough torque shouldn't need the gearbox at all. Some solve this problem by putting one motor on each wheel, that in terms of economic driving gives the best power balance. There are two types you can buy now, one that has a small diameter "ordinary" motor that is geared down, and one that is a purpose built low speed motor that exploits the whole space available inside the rim. Theres no doubt as to witch one has the better economy, although they cost more beacause they couldn't today be taken off the shelf. But the more popular/mass produced they gey get, the more economical they will be to buy. In the meantime I guess you could make a very efficient motor(with very much torque from low amps) from putting a couple(or 3 or 4) evt. modified/rewired washing machine(harddrive type) motors after eachother on the same shaft, to make it both economical and economical, if you see what I mean. There's at least one company I've seen making this kind of motor(with stackable segments to fit your need for hp) especially for vehicles, but they are as far as I know only economical in one sence of the word. So I get your drift, I don't mean to criticize you negatively, only give you some thoughts to get rid of the power loss in the transmission.
Got any pics or video of what you've done? Only things I use are things I've bought, didn't understand that comment. Economical means in same price range, if something cost 2 or 3 times as much then not economical for a DIY to use. If you want ultra high tech, get a Leaf.
First of all I think you're doing a great job. I get your point completely. If I had the money I'd convert my boat right away. But with 1000hp for a marine environment, it's an expensive project, so I feel the restrictions you mention. I haven't built an electric car yet, and I don't think I will upload anything on youtube if I do, youre way ahead of me there, and that's exactly why I want to maybe give you some ideas, because youre already doing it. Economical driving means using less watts. But that is also directly linked with how many batteries you have to go through over the years. Iow. if you spend more on a motor, you could save on your battery banks. The ideas from a Leaf or a Formula E for that matter, are free, and all I'm saying is that you could find some of the components you'll need in other (cheaper) places.
Yeah Charles i agree,its called a spigot bearing,some are made of bronze and roller bearings,when you get vibration thats the cause,must have support on the end of any input shaft.
This is very nice invention indeed. but can you give me idea in battery charging is it enough to charge by itself using only alternator and driving the airrcon?
No, I didn't lube the input spline or clutch disc splines. I generally don't have problems with disassembly. I'll keep my fingers crossed that my luck holds out this time too.
The transmission allows the car to move at highway speeds with out over revving the motor. Electric motors generate the greatest amount of torque at lower rpms. So you want to keep the motor spinning slower to keep the power output up as high as possible. 1st gear which is the same as direct drive will take the car up to about 15 mph. Without the transmission that would be as fast as the car could go. You could lock the car in 3rd gear and have pretty good acceleration and get up to
about 45 mph or you could lock the car in 4th gear and take it up to 70+ mph, however the tradeoff is that your acceleration from 0 to 70 would be glacial. I usually start off in third gear and shift to 4th at about 45mph. The acceleration from zero is still very brisk up to 45mph. While I'm sure that you could play around with the gear ratios and find one that would take you from 0 to 70 with adequate acceleration, the transmission just makes this easier and gives a wider range of usefulness.
Yes, the clutch is working on the HHR. I would keep the clutch for safety and ease of shifting reasons. Depending on what vehicle you are trying to convert there may already be an adaptor plate available. Try Canadian EV for a list of available adaptor plates. If they don't have what you are looking for then there are some suppliers that will make an adaptor plate for your transmission and motor combination.
some people have done that, but I don't think that it would make a lot of difference. I might remove the crank ring on the flywheel on my next project but I don't think I will spend the time, money and effort to drill out the flywheel and then try to balance it.
some people have done that, but I don't think that it would make a lot of difference. I might remove the crank ring on the flywheel on my next project but I don't think I will spend the time, money and effort to drill out the flywheel and then try to balance it.
If I were racing or trying to achieve the ultimate in miles per charge then I would consider shaving the flywheel. The pound or two that I might save are not worth the time and expense in my opinion.
Yow ..got a noob question .... I want to use automatic car transmition ... Any tips and words or better option for it? Plzzz ... Greed to try this 😀😀 .. Sorry for bad english by the way
I'm using a 9 inch Advance DC motor (from the AMD company), the controller is a 1K Zilla with the "hairball". This conversion will have 44, 130 amp hour LiFePo batteries
Since there is no point to the flywheel other than it being a bridge to the transmission, I would think a lightweight flywheel would improve acceleration a bit. just a thought. sometimes you can grab a used one for ~70 bux
your conversion sucks. want to hear mine. if you can find a bottle wire generator (i can't remember the name just what it looks like.) then you make coils to connect on it creating an amp generator. then because of the easy of turning these types of generators you then use a small 60 mph scooter motor and put a big pulley wheel on it and then a pin on the generator and you never get out of first gear while produce full power for any electric motor. the gas savings is big but if you have trouble please just use a transformer after the generator as this is just a theory of mine. the coils are suspended by the way so good luck on the new conversion.
The flush mounted bolts dont look to strong after you flush mounted them seems to me it weakened the plate where the bolts go in but i dont know if that really matters or not just thought it could affect the holding power or the mounting power of the plate to the motor or transmission.
HHR are the heaviest cars a cruiser is half that weight ther are aluminum flywheels somewhere and you have to have a pilot bearing even if its just cast out of lead/aluminum or turned on a big drill after being rough sized byu a router or grinder with a hole drilled close to size ect or a machinist to custom turn on
Hi, I wolud like to know the specifications of the electric motor you are using as well as the controler , to see if I can get something similar or close, and how many batteries are you planning to use and what kind. Thanks!
Thats the wonderful thing about on the job training (OJT) and one thing leads to another. You impressed me as a retired mechanic of diesel and combustion engines from A to Z. You are the people of the future. The expression you used "One Way Or Another," says it all. thank you kindly.
Wow - you are very talented. I would like to hear your comments about the concerning the protean in- wheel motor instead of using an electric motor to connect to a transmission.
thats what i was trying to say but in order for a clutch to work it needs a flyweel to grip to. Thus my comment "Get a lighter flyweel" Lose less energy.
Curby Weaver O ffs man pay attention, this is a conversion He took a gas engine out and put a electric one in so it has a standard trans... still uses a cluch
