High Idle Fix on a 1980 Honda Goldwing GL1100 

Thanks. I've been dreading servicing the carbs on my son's 83 GL1100. This video made it look a lot less daunting.

Great video. Not at all the procedure demonstrated in the factory service manual, never the less it all worked.

great video, hope you make more I would love to see one describing all the electrical hardware and plugs that are attached to the motor.

Wow, that was a awesome video on rebuilding the carburetor.!! It was wonderful to hear Pearl, like a kitten, when you were done!!

Use high Temperature Silicone Grease when reassembling crusty old Threads..makes life easier and stops them corroding any further.

word of advice get a Japanese standard bit set for the screws. less of a chance of messing up screw heads

Stripped screws are normally caused by using the wrong screwdriver. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws are used by almost all Japanese motorcycles. Look at the screw for a 'dot'.... that signifies a JIS screw. JIS screwdrivers usually come as a set of 3 but might be individual. Online is the easiest outlet. Your particular problem might have been the lack of a 'idle adjustment spring' on the adjuster screw! I noticed it was missing at the beginning of the carb teardown and magically appeared during the re-installation! That adjuster screw will always try to loosen itself and that causes the idle speed to fluctuate.... always slower. But with all the visible fuel leaks you were justified in the teardown and rebuild. You should have mentioned that you reinstalled the spring though. One of the biggest 'boo-boos' was not replacing the center gasket between the carb bodies. Well... you actually can't because it's no longer available from Honda but... you could 'seal' the center gasket with some PERMATEX RUBBER SEALANT #85409. A tube costs about $10 USD. It's not a perfect replacement but it's better than having all your work done and finding it still leaks fuel. I don't know if there's anyone making a replacement 'packing' but I do know it's unavailable from Honda. Once you break it apart you should know that it's going to leak upon reassembly.... so some sealant is the best alternative. The 'prybar' you used to pressure the screws for the air cut valves'.... was very good process but that's actually called a 'gasket scraper'. During reassembly you MUST reset the float levels! This is so important you should have covered it in your video! Also you should have inspected the fuel jets and verified they were clear and used compressed air to blow them out. Never, EVER use a wire or drill to check for them being clear. Soak them in a carb cleaner (spray carb cleaner from WalMart works fine) and then blow out with compressed air. A higher than normal idle speed can be cause by several problems but one of the most common is an air leak. The intake manifold o-rings are a VERY common reason. They are available and should have been replaced. So.. your work was far from professional but it wasn't the worse I've seen online. When the GL1000 first came out we had carb problems with the first ones because they had set in the werehouse after manufacture and shipping from Japan... or so we were told. I battled with carb removal until figuring out to remove the 2 right side slide bodies was the key! The provisional manual we had made no mention about HOW to remove the carbs. Good job on that for you!

Did you say your is a 1980 ? That’s what I have and my jets were pressed in couldn’t get them out and it was blocked off from sitting for 20 years I bought a set off eBay that had removable jets and seems to be a lot better, the guy said it came off a running bike but who knows, I’ve got a lot of work to do on this bike but I’m not going to stop until it’s done,thanks for the video

Sync it .