Thank you again for teaching me term “linear bearings”. 🤓short, to the point, steady video. Cannot ask for more. I will keep a lookout for your videos !
grateful thanks. It is crisp and to the point. I just bought a demo piece of Hitachi sliding miter and was looking for a video how to clean up the bearing to make it run smooth.
Just did my Bosch 4405 which has this bearing discontinued. Gave it a much needed cleaning. Important that all ball bearings move the the total length of the oval like a train on an oval track it must be able to do a complete round trip. I had a few that wouldn’t budge but after pushing them through with a small flat head screwdriver and spraying cleaner I got them all free.
Great video Jason, short and easy to follow, thanks. I have a Bosch with the same type of rail system but I bet the same process works on it too. Rockin
Thanks for the tips. One of my tracks had worn out and out came 1/12 of bearings. Cleaned out, greased and patiently put them all back. At least I think all. Don't drop tiny bearings
I just answered my own questions. The back plate is held on by a couple of rolled pins. I used a drift pin punch (the same diameter as the pins) to remove them. It took some serious smacking, but they came out nicely. The linear bearing is now clean and greased, and the saw slides well. One additional note. On the other side there are four square neoprene guides on each side, one above and one below, upon which the saw also slides. I found that a dab of grease on the backsides is best way to keep the upper ones in place while you are reassembling.
Thanks for the excellent advice. I have an Elektra-bekum chop saw that's 30 years old now and going strong. It's never had any attention to the bearings. It is sliding a little rough now so I think I shall strip it some time and see if the bearings of the type you show here and clean em up like you suggest.
Would also love a video on precisely setting the bushings opposite the bearing.... One could ‘set/seat’ the bushing as far as possible on the bottom, and at the same time recess fully the top set screw bushings, causing the rails to be clocked ever so slightly, moving you that much off 90°
You can also buy these linear bearings, at least you can for the Milwaukee 7.5" off amazon. But no idea how difficult it is to remove and install, not something I have plucked up enough courage to attempt yet.
Thanks so much for this! Just for future reference the Milwaukee 6955-20 is almost the exact same. The Milwaukee parts diagram doesn't show the bearings as they are included with the "Table Assy" which is a whopping $350 part. I have not been able to find replacements, so cleaning will be the best I can do. Any recommendation for cleaning rust off the bars?
Hi great video. I made the mistake of removing the bearing and like you said balls every where. you inspired me to get mine working again ,. my question to you or to anyone who owns this saw is how many ball bearings are in the race as im not sure i gathered them all as it was so long ago. Is the race half full ? Three quaters full completely full. Hope this makes sense.Thanks.
Hi, on the left side are liner bearings installed, on the right are only two small plastic support parts. How long do they use till the next replacement? Or it doesn't wear out at all? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Makita older USA made model has a dual linear bearing, and my bearings look just like that one you have there. Manual recommend to lube with machine oil... thoughts?
JASON I need to replace those bearings in a Bosch 3915 the assembly looks very similiar to the Hitachi. Once that retainer is removed do the bearings (2) slide out? or do they need help? Cut hardie plank with the tool fine dust wrecked the bearings whoops!
On this saw the bearings are held in place by a plastic sleeve. I would guess its the same with your model saw.You can gently slide the sleeve out; but ALL the bearings will fall out with it. Just be sure t capture them as you go. You can set up a barrier to stop the bearings from being lost on the floor. Hope this helps.
I've bought a Bosch GCM 10 SD Professional for second hand. I believe the bearings have got some rust in them. We've tried degreaser, and thinners and a lot of scrubbing with a tooth brush. What would you recommend for possible rust?
Jason, thank you for this video! I did exactly this process today on my Hitachi 8" slider (C8FB). The sliding has not been smooth for a while. Cleaning it all out certainly helped some but the slide is still a little rough. When it was opened up there was one track of bearings that did not seem to move smoothly. I sprayed quite bit and tried to clean it. Lubed it up. Still, the bearings in the one track seemed "sticky". Like they were hanging up on something. Any ideas? Since that sticky track is on the bottom and is thus bearing a lot of the weight, I thought spinning the whole bearing sleeve to a different position might greatly improve it? Do you know if that can be done? I briefly experimented but it seems like it won't rotate at all. Also, how hard is it to replace the bearing sleeve?? I'm searching the internet and the part cost is quite high ($140) but I also found a much cheaper version at $40. I can't be sure if the two are compatible so far. I'm also afraid of bearings going everywhere if I fool with the thing too much. I'd be grateful for any thoughts that you have!
The bearings might spill out, depending on what type of sleeve they are in. Place the saw inside something that will capture the balls if they fall out.
Are hitachi chop/sliding saws any good? I've got my eye on a 2nd hand sliding saw. Can anyone advise me of things to look for/or avoid in these machines?
Just inherited a C10FSB sliding compound miter saw from a friend who had left it out in the weather for a long time. I let it dry out and it actually fires up. Just the linear bearings are stuck. Only thing I can think to do is spray some WD-40 in there, let it sit, and see if I can use a bar clamp to make the arm move out. Is that a good idea, do you think? or do you have any others? If I can then manage to get the back plate off (two roller bearings, i believe, which I hope can just be squeezed out with a vise of some sort) and get the arms entirely out, I may be able to clean it in a similar fashion as to what you used here and get it working again. Are there TWO bearings in this double barrel or one? Only looks like one. There is some sort of nut on a shaft in front of the lockdown screw on the saw I have? What could that be? Not a grease nipple of any kind, is it??? I'll have to look up the manual for it. Anyway, encouraging video, though mine may be jammed beyond all hope. All the best!
I have had success with seafoam for freeing stuck things. Once you get it unstuck and cleaned, try re assembling with a dry lubricant like Otis dry lube, made for guns.
@@Jason04543 Thanks for the advice, Jason. Really appreciate it, Buddy! Think I have some sea foam lying around somewhere. You're talking about using a pour-on solution of the stuff, right? They don't make a spray, do they? I did get it moved out by using two bar clamps, millimeter by millimeter. But now its just about all the way extended and no way to get it back unless I use a hydraulic press for fixing car dents, which a friend of mine owns. :) Those linear bearings sure aren't giving up fighting on their own.... :)
Any advice for how to get that end cap off of the sliding arms? Your video starts with it already removed, but I'm having a helluva time trying to remove mine. Removed the allen head screws, but it's almost like the end cap itself is glued on or something...
I just went through the same maintenance. This might be too late for you, but to get the end cap off you need to pound out the roll pins that hold the cap to the slides. I then used a small piece of wood and tapped it against the end cap with a hammer till it came off. I haven't put the pins back in yet, so we'll see how that goes, lol.
Jason I have a metabo saw needing cleaned. The end cap has one grub screw and the other side has a split pin. Does the split pin just push through into the hollow tube. Or does it need pulled out. Any other advice on metabo would be good.thanks.
@@benjamingreen3297 Yes I got it apart with a drift/punch. Cleaned the bearings with air gun. the seals are not great on it and quite easily allows dust in. So needs cleaned quite regularly.
@@markw.5128 right on i got it apart today, mine had pins in it i had to punch out with a drill bit that was the right size. Got the thing apart, cleaned bearings with brush and good as new. Only bad thing is i threw away the freakin copper pin stopper under the lock screw, i thought was broken piece of drill bit i was using, after i realized i felt like a dummy, had to order a new one and ship it to hawaii, shipping more than the part itself
I have one of these. It now requires me to lift the saw as I slide it, otherwise it won't slide on the bars. Is something bent, or just the bearings need to be cleaned like in this vid?
I have the same problem. Pulled it apart, the bearings are shot. It’s just a plastic sleeve. Had this carftsman saw for along time . Will just invest on a new one.
Hi James.The bearings are similar; cleaning would be the same. How one gets to the bearing might be slightly different.www.hitachi-koki.com/manual_view_export/pdf/C99141312_C12LSH_701.pdf
not the same, happen to own both saws....old 8" and 10" saw has a superior bearing sleeve compared to the 12"..... BTW I have taken the bearing sleeve out of the 12" and they did not spill on the floor as described. Not sure on the 8". Also manual says "machine oil" for slide bars
@@brucefrederick6841 "Also manual says "machine oil" for bearing sleeves?" Right. I cleaned my bearing sleeve, as shown 5 years ago and greased it (ignoring the hitachi directions) and it got rough quickly. I'll try machine oil next time.
