Hi, my American college, I've just bought Hitachi c10 fsh, two days ago. It is made in Japan in 2008. Now I've understood you loving this nice saw so much! This model is absolutely sutible for finish woodworking.
When I found the Gen 2 in 2002, I had found perfection...the craftsman who owned it in the shop I worked, protected it like a child. He would start fights over people using without his permission or using it in a way that he didn't approve. He allowed me to use it on occasion and I have, to this day, not found it's equal. Wish they still made it because I would buy it in a heartbeat. Oh, and I found you thru Scott Brown Carpentry video "Almost fired over a vacume".
Thanks so much. I have had a gen1 for years but have never been able to get truly accurate square or 45 degree cuts. I'm sure it is my failure to be consistent with how I lock in the detents or need to adjust. How do your adjust the detents to square? Or get more consistent reliable square cuts? Thanks so much for this information.
Advice please: I love my gen 2 saw. It's by far the best saw I've ever used. My new issue though is that I've built a 10' by 14' Workshop in my back yard and my FSH is going to have to live on a saw station up against a wall. With such a small space, I can only commit 18 to 20 inches of bench depth. Effectively, this will require me to cut through & frame out the wall behind the saw. It's also gonna mean 2 studs considering the swing of the rails. As much as I love my saw, I was really considering the new FSHC with the forward facing stationary rails. All opinions welcome....
I''ve got the 8 inch version of this saw and it's the best tool I've ever owned. Bought in the mid-90s. Built a lot of houses with it. Still going strong.
I'm still using the good old Elu/Dewalt 8.5" from way back. Still works but I'm getting a bit fed up with the sticky and tricky internal slide system. Unfortunately, Hikoki have discontinued the 8.5" saw in NZ so I am looking at the Bosch equivalent, but it looks a bit flimsy. I like the looks of this 10" saw, but it is a bit too heavy and bulky for this old bastard. I don't fancy dragging it in and out of my van every day. There is very little I can't cut with an 8.5" saw.
Just picked up a second hand gen 1 in good condition in Victoria Australia. Couple small cracks in the plastic but for $200 im happy. Huge build quality difference between my Chinese made makita my new baby
Great explanation. I spotted one of these at auction and this helped me decide to buy it. I always see the OG trim carpenters using these at job sites and wondered why. Nice shop set up as well. Liked & subscribed.
Last year I helped a friend move some stuff out of an old carpenter's outdoor area as he was selling the house. He had started to build another garage as his first one had burned down, but hadn't had time to complete it wen e decided to sell the house. So we got a lot of 16 foot 2X4, and a few other items. One was a C10FSB that had sat outside for a couple years. So I took it with me. The linear bearing had seized up but the saw actually looked pretty good, other than that. I bought some new brushes for it, but the linear bearing has been an obstacle to restoring it. Today I was bringing some stuff to the dump and I saw a C10FSH in really good condition down there. The side was hanging off it, as I guess they'd had some electronics trouble with it. BUT... I think I finally have the ability to finish the saw I picked up last Spring (of 2020). I'm so psyched! Thanks for this great video on how good the saws are. I really like the design. Hoping I can make one good saw out of the two and have a parts supply left over. Still have to get a few things from ereplacementparts but it will be nice to have a working saw. I only have a small car. If I'd have had a truck, I would have grabbed the DeWalt table saw down there too. I know I could get it working. I kick myself for not having enough room to grab it! But, then again, I already have two table saws now (neither as good as the DeWalt, though). GRRRRRR. I hate how much stuff gets thrown in the landfill around here! :) People don't fix anything as they're in a rush for the next dollar. Understandable, I guess, but sad. If the USA could landfill the ocean, I think we'd be able to drive to England in a few years.... :)
I still have 4 of those saws what is wrong but I still have a bunch of eat at Eat s*** What the h*** is wrong with you and you still buy him They're not as cheap as they used to be Especially the tenant I probably have you know probably 1517 quarters be nice
I’m not sure if you covered this, but Hitachi’s tool division was bought by Metabo (a German company) and the new brand is Metabo HPT. I guess HPT stands for Hitachi Power Tools? Almost certainly made in China, but one hopes that a German company would demand higher quality control. If you’re searching for parts for the Gen. 2, I’d search for Metabo + model number. I don’t know for sure, but the Metabo HPT C10FSHS looks identical to your Gen. 2 Hitachi.
Great video! I couldn't agree with you more about the quality of the C10FS - It was highly rated when i purchased it something like 20 years ago. I was looking for a quality saw that wasn't made in China and this was it. Along with my Delta Unisaw, my son and I installed 3/4" solid oak hardwood floors throughout our house. I bolted the saw to my workbench after I purchased it and it still sits there today - I use it all the time. I guess that I should sharpen or replace the blade but there are not issues with the cuts. I cost around $700 or so new - if you can get a well kept used model for less than around $400, you get a good saw. BTW, it still cuts 4x4s like butter.
I just scored a C8fb free. It was rusting away at this job I was doing and asked the guy if he was getting rid of it. It was in bad shape but I'm restoring it. Im literally wire brushing every single part down to the nuts-bolts and even the bearings in the slide. So far so good. Motor runs good. Very minimal plastic so its a good restoration. I can't wait till I'm done.
Myself i have the C10FSB and i was wondering if i can buy the laser attachment as the C10FSB comes with ,as you mentioned they are identical saw.Great video.
Heyo, thanks for all the great consolidated information! If you were so kind, would you be able to answer 1 question that I have looked high and low for.. On the 8-1/2 model, C8fb2, has base similar in color scheme to your gen 1- is it made in Japan? I would like to buy one and would be traveling quite far to pick it up, however on the motor sticker it does not say where it is made… is this implied or is there a china possibility? You are the man and cheers in advance!
Got a 10" Hitachi C10FCE2 compound miter at Lowes, to replace my old one, which had a warped table. The new one sucks. The swiveling table has a 2 piece, circular shim underneath, which I assume to assist swivel and prevent wear to the cast aluminum base. Replaced the, terribly designed shims, and damn thing still sticks, no matter how clean I keep the track. Made in China? Thanks for sharing!
Hi, have you used the Hitachi c3607dra? It's the cordless 36v 7.5". It's this same design lineage- belt drive, vertical grip, 45 left/57 right, etc. It's made in Japan. They came out in 2019 I think. I got one for like $900 and I really like it. There's another model, the C3606dra, using a 6.5" blade, also made in Japan, but it's not available in the US.
Sorry that is one thing I forgot, it is far stronger than the Kapex, The Kapex although extremely accurate is not known for its power, It’s actually very under powered in my opinion, It’s good for trimwork but you don’t wanna do anything super heavy with it, I cut 8/4 walnut with this thing no problem 💯
@@carpenterone3 I was interested in the Kapex except for the price. One feature was the Kapex laser doesn't turn on the vac. I run the Hitachi plugged into a Fein vac. Dust collection is great. Turn the saw on and the vac turns on, but I don't want to keep turning the laser on and off to turn the vac off. Two, the Kapex has two lasers. Ran a Irwin disc laser on the Hitachi blade to bookend the cut in conjunction w. the factory laser, but can't find them anymore. I got a lot of Makita tools, but along with the Hitachi framing, tico and 15g finish nail guns, the CF10 gets the job done. Nice to see a video like this. Appreciated the info. Hopefully it keeps the tool companies on their toes and not making the job harder because of junk for tools. Ciao.
I paid nearly $900.00 for a Gen 1 when they first came out. Used the hell out of it and loved it. Replaced it with a Gen 2 (FSH) when it finally gave up the ghost. Love it too. I agree with your assessment that it is the best SCMS ever and I have used them all.
I never used the carrying handle for the Gen 1, but today when I was using the saw, I noticed a crack near that handle. I tried sliding the handle up and twisting it just a little and the cover broke off, exposing the belt. That plastic around the screws was real brittle. Luckily I wasn't using it when it fell off. Was hoping to find a place to buy a replacement cover but my findings only brought me here.. where you said there aren't replacement parts for it. Haha. So, don't use that handle!
I have a gen one C10FS. It was in great shape until the until the handle and right & left cover plastic shattered. I guess sunlight made it very brittle. I was hopiing to replace the parts but it seems everything is obsolete. Do you know of any after market parts makers ? is there any place that makes parts for this saw? I hate not being able to use this saw. ARe you interested in making me an offer for my saw for parts? I caution you, keep your saw out of sunlight.
Great video, came here as I'm trying to get a gen 1 for 150aud, not sure how good that is but from what you say these are very accurate and that is what I need.
Hi - interesting video. I have non-sliding C12FCH that I bought 10-15 years ago that I like and will keep an eye out for a used C10FSH. If I can't find one, can you recommend a new sliding miter saw? Metabo? DeWalt? Anyone else? Thanks!
Great info! I have the C10fsb and it quite working all of a sudden then a week later it started up again then died? I’m waiting for brushes hoping that’s the cause? Any suggestions if the brushes don’t do it.. thanks
I have both the 8 1/2 inch, (not 8 1/4), C8FB2 sliding miter box and the 10 inch C10FS...1000's of hrs on each, as was a carpenter/cabinet maker/home builder for 30+ yrs...only thing ever done to either? the 8 needed new brushes and cord once...love both saws and there jobs I use the 8 for, instead of the 10 inch...1 was joined oak railings...the 10 inch blade would heat up and warp slightly, throwing the cut off slightly, giving it a slight curve, creating gap, when joining...a thick kerf bade in my 8 stopped that..., and wouldn't cut framing lumber with the 10 inch, it was a more delicate saw than the 8 inch...
Good video. In almost 30 years of doing finish carpentry, Hitachi is the only brand I've used. Tried others at times but always go back to Hitachi. Better cutting , quality and accuracy. I have both the 10 inch and 8 inch. Only complaint I've had is when the laser quit working a month after purchase. It's not a necessity but can come in handy at times. Big concern is that Hitachi is owned by Metabo now. And if I should ever need to replace my 10 inch saw I don't think the quality we're used to will be there. An example would be when I went to replace my Hiatchi 18 gauge pin nailer. Never had a problem with it until it fell 30 feet off scaffolding. Bought a replacement not knowing it was now Metabo. Piece of crap! Lasted maybe 2 months. Sounds like I better start looking for well taken care of used 10 inch saws. Thanks for the video!👍
@@robertawills7219 I've never used one of the manufactured fold up stands but they are pretty stable and convenient for transporting . A few other trimmers I work with use them on all the time with no issues. The stand will come with brackets that mount to your saw, slight modifications might be needed with different models of saws, then the brackets clip onto the stand pretty securely. A dewalt stand would be my recommendation if looking for pre made and able to fold up. Only one I'm familiar with and readily available most places. Other brands would probably be just as good. I make my own saw bench that sits on saw horses, larger table surface for setting things on while still cutting. And storage in it for various items. Works well but a little more cumbersome if moving from job to job frequently. Hope this helps you some. Best of luck.
Old Hitachi is Mercedes and metabo is mersadez. No comparison in build quality. Bostitch nail guns did the same thing. Still have an 18 and 16 from the late 90s working and bought new ones that all failed before they even became scuffed from use.
@@wikster6630 I use an old ladder on saw horses with a bit of ply to sit the saw on and blocks fixed at about 2.5 feet apart, closer towards the saw. Easy, not something anyone will steal. I can leave it on site. Just throw the saw in the van.
Great video thank you I have a gen too I had to take off my safety cover for a repair when putting it back on can you tell me where the spring goes it looks like there's a slot in the plastic part but where does the other end attached to thank you
I have a gen 2, made in Japan. and am having trouble finding the correct blade guard and arm that drives it. The replacements are different and do not fully detract the guard. Im stuck because Im being told these are the parts on hand. The guard is larger and the curve on the side is different where the bearing of the arm rides. Same with the arm. A little difference in size and shape. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks
I have a GEN2 and love it. I bought it at lowes for like 139 bucks and have built many home projects with it an it works amazing. Probably my fav tool , the dist colletor isnt that good but i use a shp vac right near it
I am a carpenter of 25 years. The c10fsh is truly the rolls royce. Dewalt kicks too much makita weighs too much. These saws have maintained their accuracy while performing high end custom work...did i say i liked them?
@@Flowing23 actually yeah. My laser went down and i was told that 90 percent of the time it is the switch power supply (part # 321 378) the part that sends juice to the laser. Good luck
I'm still using the good old Elu/Dewalt 8.5" from way back. Still works but I'm getting a bit fed up with the sticky and tricky internal slide system. Unfortunately, Hikoki have discontinued the 8.5" saw in NZ so I am looking at the Bosch equivalent, but it looks a bit flimsy. I like the looks of this 10" saw, but it is a bit too heavy and bulky for this old bastard. I don't fancy dragging it in and out of my van every day. There is very little I can't cut with an 8.5" saw.
So I have since bought the 8.5" Bosch and, yes, it is as flimsy as it looks. Cheap enough so no worries there, but it shows profound blade drift/wobble. It is fine for basic stuff like framing but............... I'm still eying this Hikoki up. The Jap made original is still available here, for a price. How easy is it to lock the mitre up at, say, 30.5 degrees? Does is slip into the 30 degree detent?
Ive had the c10fsb for 15 years. It cuts perfect mitres in all modes. I had a look at the belt the other day for the first time. Still looks brand new. You can get 47 the left, its just not indicated. Also my handle is solid
Great video - I have the C10FS - my husband passed. I have no manual. I'm learning as I go. I'm in the process of building a farmhouse desk. On the X pieces it is cut in degrees. Where is makes the X with the 2 short pieces it said to cut one end at where it meets the long part of the X at 21 degrees the other is 35 degrees at the top. I'm just not understanding the raised markings that show the degrees. Any help would be appreciated.
This is probably a dumb question and I'm probably gonna catch hell for asking... My father gave me his 1st gen and it's in perfect condition with a really nice table setup (6ft on each side), the thing is I do more metal work than wood, can I put a cold cut saw blade on it and cut metal?
Video was awesome.... do you happen to know the production years for Gen 1 & 2? Is there any way to tell from the manufacturing label? I have a Gen 2 this while time I thought mine was gen 1.. thanks for the info
Man, couldn’t agree more. 👊such great trim saws. I, too have a collection C10FSB, OG C8FB (I think original slider design), C8FB2. I can’t decide what I like better the 8.5” or the 10”. 10 is great for larger stock though. 👍keep slinging wood man!
You are correct. The C8FB was the original model. Mine Just (last week) died. I'm still crying about it. I bought it new when I was a young finish carpenter. I've purchased a DW780 and it's a beast, but not the same. Anyone want to trade?
@@Renrondog it’s easy to love and obsess over these Japanese saws. I just found a c10fsh in mint condition. Couldn’t pass it up. You say your 8.5” died. Does the motor just need new brushes? Maybe parts available.
They’re worth it if it’s clean, To be completely honest with you they’re worth whatever you’re willing to pay, a brand new miter saw is going to cost you $650 for a premium brand and up and these are better in my opinion so if you can find a really clean one they’re worth that and more, I’ve seen them as cheap as $100 all the way up to 650 myself
Bro, I have a perfectly good running c10fs gen1, but has a broken handle housing. Can you have somebody scan and 3D print me a replacement, since there arent anymore made? I really dont want to throw away a running saw. #CarpenterOne3
Hey Frank, wonder if you know if the clear blade cover for (c10fs) is the same as (c10fsb)? I just bought the gen 1 c10fs but the blade cover is pretty much gone., and could only find c10fsb blade cover replacement. Thanks.
I bought a C10FSH at an auction from a bankrupt Carpenter a while ago. It needed (and still needs) a lot of love, afte rreplacing the laser diode, transmission belt and clamps, I now would like to add a blade guard.I've got an original replacement one and some original springs, but I can't figure out how to set this up so that te guard automatically slides in whenever I pull the saw down. Does anyone have a clear idea/instruction on how to do that? Also, unlike these saws (or any other I see) mine has sort of external trigger, which (I assume) can be used to lock the blade guard when it's open, anyone any idea where that comes from?
Unfortunately I don’t dude, I haven’t had to mess with my blade guard on any of mine, regarding the laser a guy on Instagram that I follow named Russell Larson installed LED lights in the top inside of the blade housing and it produces a shadow line instead of a laser which is a lot better you might want to check his page out
I want to thank Frank for sharing this. These may be some of the very best mitre saws in the trade, but their appeal is bound to fade. If someone wants a good saw to use for construction and/or finish work, they are going to want one that they can maintain. If parts availability continues to decline, these saws will become more and more problematic.
The appeal for anything fades and parts are still available for the gen 2 as the Chinese version is a “cheap clone”. None of that takes away that these are the best miter saw ever made in my opinion
This saw is lights years Better than the LS 1019, I know this because I had the LS 1019 and sold it, The saws are super high-quality from the diameter of their sliding tubes to there almost zero head deflection, Making it bevel past 45 is simple, The stops screw on both sides Can be adjusted to allow it to bevel 48° easy each way, Again I’m not trying to sell anybody these size they don’t even make them anymore, this is purely my opinion if you disagree with it that’s fine but in my opinion these are the best saws ever made and I’ve owned over 15 miter saws.
Dude then don’t buy one of the saws, I don’t see how that’s a hack when every other degree outside of 45 And the other three detents on the bevel You need to rely on the pointer anyways, this saw is super accurate, I didn’t one time in the video tell anybody to buy this saw or trade in whatever they have to try to find one, You can try to prove your point all day long, this thing will spank the LS 1019, But if you’re happy with that saw by all means keep using it I’ll never try to convince you otherwise, But when your detent starts getting really sloppy on your Makita because they make their detent plates out of aluminum be prepared to spend $100 on a stainless one 👍🏽 I’m pretty sure you’re the one that gave this video a thumbs down so thanks for watching 😂👍🏽
I didn’t get defensive I went over in the video why I like it and how flat the tables are and how precise it is, I do high-end Carpentry in San Diego and this is the saw I use every day, I’m sorry you couldn’t pick up from the video why I’m saying it’s the best, I’m glad you’re happy with the one you have, have a great day dude ✌🏽
This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. (The two machine on this video is okay top). (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
I don't think your Gen 1 is the real Gen1. The 8 1/4 without all that plastic on it is the real Gen 1. I bought mine in the early '90s for 630.00 with tax. It only beveled one direction. the motor is direct drive. Made in Japan. Still works perfectly.
I wore out my gen 1 and have had a gen 2 since around 2007. Both saws were incredibly accurate and true. The gen 2 is getting a bit loose in the armature and I want to replace, but ALAS , no more Hitachi's to be found. Wandering if you have tried out the Metabo version of the C10 FSB? Reviews I've read are not to positive.
I wanted to ask why my fsb10” just stopped working? What are some things that I can check. I’m installing new brushes today to see if it might be the issue, I’m not too confident that’s it. Any suggestions wouldn’t be appreciated because you never respond back you are useless
