@@griffsrearmountturbothemod1623 ive never tried this myself, could you use your accumulator to prime the engine? You will love this, i use a bucket pump. I connect it to the oil pressure switch.
I like to put some Lucas in the oil pumps when I build a engine. It helps with priming. Even if it's days or months later. It helps create a instant vacuume to pick up the oil. I also use it for assembly. With a lil bit of oil 20w50 weight. Coat the bearings with Lucas . then put a drop of oil on them. I put Lucas in the crank and block oil gallies , also on the crank journal. The bearings always looked great when I have disassembled them later. It's not the cheapest assembly lube...
Thats definitely needed assembly lube on oil pump gears..Nice to know there are liked minded people like yourself with great knowledge watching my channel and hopefully enjoying my journey 👍
Priming the oil pump.... Modified oil filter/adaptor coming up? Mine works well, but a pump with more power is needed if I want to get oil flooding the top of the heads prior to start up. Nice work on the grouting. I;ll watch with interest to learn the impact on water and oil temperatures, if any. Cheers Steve.
I have thought about filling the waterjacket like a plaster mould. Just add a few layers of fill. Maybe 1/4" thick as long as it allows water flow. The newer model Chevy v8 blocks are a bit thin in the cylinder. Every little bit helps I guess.
Yep certainly lower then I did on mine as I used a bottle a side lol. But I definitely plan on running a large oil cooler with thermatic control. Will also make the plumbing for the accumulator simple as well.
It will interesting on oil temps so i will be keeping a close eye on it... your little oil pressure ajuster is going on.. you did a bloody good job on it well done👍
@@griffsrearmountturbothemod1623 Cheers no probs. Have done mine exactly the same way so was easy as just making another. Just about to have a big push to get mine together again which I'm looking forward to. I have got a few weeks off and ticking the jobs off before I can start to play with the toys lol.
Hey Bud, with number 1,2,5 write STD as for standard just so you don't forget !! Aviation form a gasket, brilliant stuff always used it, never goes hard so down the track if you need to take a rocker cover or that off it won't break the gasket and can be reused !! What an excellent job with the grout mate, well done for a first attempt !! Seeya Rob........hey Neat hope your well mate, it's finally starting to rain here a bit, pretty windy, 26 and muggy but it's better than the 36 and 38 we had yesterday and the day before that !! I see it's nice and lovely cool and your way very envious I am !!
Hi Rob, ok will write std on them.. wowzers it has been warm up your way, to hot for me, being lovely and cool here... if it gets to hot for you up there I have a spare queen bed for you down here to escape the heat hahaha... Thanks Rob your one of the knowledgeable folks that follows me👍
he mate its a good idea to use an air chisel to vibrate the hard block into all the corners and it tends to level it off better as well and if your worried about damaging your block just use a bit of timber to put the chisel against
Wait till i get some solid testing done.. i know of a fella that had his block done and said you get cement bits come out untill it settles, so one of those tefba filters is very handy...
Thanks Griff appreciated , maybe the blocks have gone up I did not think they were that price but I must b wrong as when I spoke to Craig a year or so ago they were worth buying rather than messing with Holden blocks .
I spoke to him a couple of years ago and he said around six, they might be cheaper now.. The reason im still sticking with these two factory blocks is i believe in them and ive had good success.. But i do look after the motor while driving believe it or not, keeping revs down a touch 6300, and feathering the throttle, i believe that contributes to longevity.. All these mods as well really help too... I have figured out why the other block failed in the bore, it had a rust divet in it, and over time got worse and finally let go.. it was going to happen no matter what, na or boosted
The silicone works really well for me, the old tin pans are a pain to keep oil from weeping out around the edges... How i think is with the grouting it's like a thicker bore girdle and extra mass will help harmonics...
@@griffsrearmountturbothemod1623 I have a HZ 308, and oil weeps from the sump, i might look into the silicone trick , The VN has a steel gasket with rubber around it, not sure if it fits? "Clever" idea to strengthen the block, shouldn't effect the cooling.
It varies in price, this latest episode from machinst was around 800 then parts. It depends on what you need doing. eg sleeving the cylinders costs around 1200, then extra for boring and honing..soon adds up
Hey griff was you worried about the lower parts of the cylinders moving from the grout? I ask this question because I’m thinking about doing my block but it has already been bored to suit my pistons, and I was real keen on having to bore it again incase it moves the cylinders , cheers
Being a builder my whole life and working with concrete gave me confidence in grouting the block. All the boxing of concrete over the years i never found it push or distort form work, I know its not an engine block but I personally couldn't see a problem and to date its holding up well. The biggest benefit I found were the harmonics well the lack of them it feels silky smooth up top now, that was a surprise to me. For me i would only do this on E85 or the likes, pump fuel could cause heating issues 👍
@@griffsrearmountturbothemod1623You reckon cooling issues even just going to the bottom of the plugs Griff? I was hoping to do my block next week, the machine shop is just roughing out the bores to make sure that aome bore pitting will come out at .030" over, but the last thing i need is something that runs hot.
Hi Griff I see you have rotating assembly still in did groute affect the bore as I been told you ment to do this before machining an with a bare block?
Depends on your hp goals, the factory block is not to bad, I've been very successful in making reliable power.. But if wanting the ultimate block, yes the little paw is awesome and around six thousand dollars starting point for block..
Plasticgage is garbage as is the block filler you are using. Clearly, you are not experienced in building an engine because you don't fill one after it is completely machined. The filler will distort the block when it dries, but, then again, hard block sucks, so, carry on .... as an engine builder, i'd be embarrassed to have posted this video.
