Holley 4160 Carburetor - Reassembly 

I appreciate the comments! Hope you'll let us know how it turned out.

So true! Thanks!

Thanks! It's my belief that we only appreciate things we earn, so no way was I going to buy her the car or do the work for her. She's a legit "car girl" now, who loves her Mustang and cars in general.

You are correct that float height can be set by bending, and we did that.

Glad you found it. We finished the rebuild months ago, but I waited until we had the car running to post it. The installation & tuning will be a future video.

@@WorkinOnIt it looks exactly the same model to mine. I'll get exactly the same rebuild kit. It's a bit more pricey here in the uk. The video cut off at the end but I'll watch the disassembly video... Thanks again

@@peppereggfuk Happy to be of help. I don't actually know if the Holley kit is better in any way than the other options that are half the price, but it's what we used. Good luck on your rebuild!

True. I was leaving that for the installation video. It was held up for a long time by a rule of this channel - I'm not going to show a project until I know that what we did worked. And the manual choke didn't work very well; at best it was stiff, at worst we had to go under the hood and manually move the linkage. The linkage moved easily without the cable attached. Replacing the cable didn't work. I think the real problem was making the cable curve too sharply, something dictated by the position of the holes in the dash and firewall that were drilled by the previous owner. So if you go the manual choke route, just make the bends very gentle. We've replaced the manual choke with an electric choke conversion. It's working great and will be a video for sure.

@@WorkinOnIt Thanks for that info. I'm thinking I will install an electric choke also.

Thanks for the question. The electric choke installation instructions @24:19 are at documents.holley.com/199r7972-5rev.pdf.

Jorge, that sucks, and most of us have been there. You were careful, you think you did everything right, you finish putting it together, and you get disappointed. I'm no expert, but my best guess would be a vacuum leak. They can be really hard to find. Kailey and I were chasing one on a 360 FE engine, and it wasn't until we replaced the entire intake manifold that we fixed the problem. If the 4 corners of the carburetor were ever seriously over-tightened, they could be slightly bent down and that would create a little gap in between. Or it could be a leak between a head and the intake, like ours was. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, get one; they aren't that expensive and it will help you figure out if a vacuum leak could be the problem. I wish you luck figuring it out!

Thanks for answering! I have a vacuum gauge but with the vacuum gauge how do I know if there is a vacuum leak? Now, if I put another carburetor like a Qjet with an adapter or an Autolite 4100 the idle is perfect, if I accelerate the engine to 1500 rpm there are slight hesitations but if I partially close the choke with the engine accelerated it stops failing.

​@@jorgeadolfotrejogarcia2235 Basically, if you have a vacuum leak the vacuum will be "low". But of course you should ask "what is 'low'?", and that's where it gets more interesting. Actron says "At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 14 in. and 22 in. Hg. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause the vacuum to drop below 5 in., then rebound to 23 in. or more." (actron.com/content/engine-performance-testing-vacuum-gauge) 14 to 22 in. Hg. is a huge range, and shows that it all depends on what is normal for your specific engine. And you did something smart by swapping on another carburetor. That experiment tells you that it's not the engine, it's either the carb itself, a port on the carb that's not plugged, or the seal underneath it. What is the full vacuum (not "timed vacuum" which is a different port on the carburetor) level at idle when the engine is idling smoothly with another carb? That's your baseline. The Holley might not reach the same vacuum but it should be able to get close if you optimize the two idle mixture screws. On Kailey's truck, the vacuum was below 5 in. Hg., so it was obvious. But not all vacuum leaks are that bad. And further complicating things, crappy fuel/air mix or timing that's off will also lower the vacuum. But the only way I know to solve this is to keep trying things until you fix it, and then you know that's what the problem was. So let's say the vacuum is way lower with the Holley vs. another carb: Is the bottom of your Holley flat? It's not unusual for one to be a little warped. Sometimes there's a problem putting a square-bore carburetor on a spread-bore intake, or vice versa - could that be the problem? Did you use a good, new gasket? Some people like to use a flammable spray - could be brake cleaner, carb cleaner, starting fluid, whatever - and spray it in different spots to try to find a vacuum leak. That didn't work for us. The vapors got sucked into the carburetor anyway, made the engine rev up, and we couldn't tell anything useful. It's entirely possible that something's just not right inside the carb, and that could be almost anything. The only thing that makes it better is that you'll be a lot faster disassembling it and reassembling it the second time. Wish I could tell you exactly what it is, but I can't and I don't even know if it's possible. Just keep eliminating possibilities and you'll eventually get it. Good luck!

Friend, I saw another video of a guy explaining about some carburetors called Reverse Idle, and that carburetor I have is the same, it has the same characteristics but since I bought it used It seems that they once rebuilt it and placed another base on it that is not his but a “normal” one, nowCan I convert that carburetor to a “standard” one? I think I have to uncover two holes and cover two others in the barrels. The idle air bleeds on my carburetor are small and on a normal one they are large.

That's well beyond my knowledge, but I do have a suggestion: call Holley. 866-464-6553. If anyone should know, it's them. It won't cost you anything but your time. I have called them several times, and usually it has been helpful. Best of luck to you.

The 37-119 kit is correct for my 4160, but your 4160 very well may need a different kit. In my opinion the List Number (1850-10 for me) is more important than the Model Number (4160 for me). Try this: go to www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/rebuild_kits/ and enter your List Number. It should give you a clear answer.

@@WorkinOnIt mine is stamped on the intake with 8007 on the first row, second row is 0573 which i believe has to do with manufacturing date beinf the model 8007

@@fasousa4798 I'm a long way from being an expert on Holley carbs, but if 8007 is in the same spot shown 5 seconds into my disassembly video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YiGwi6Z35X0.html), then I think you've got it.

@@WorkinOnIt exactly. yours show 1850-10, mine shows 8007. Which from what i was able to gather warrants a 37-720 rebuild kit. Im just curious what holley means with 4150/4160 type? When the type of carb is stamped on the intake snout. is that the physical setup? Thank you for the info and the time you invested helping me and others with these videos

@@fasousa4798 Sorry, I don't know the answer to those questions. But I know who does: Holley. www.holley.com/support/carburetor/ In my experience - and I've contacted them quite a few times - Holley is doing a better job of support than anyone else. They're about a "B" when everyone else seems to deserve a "C" or worse. They'll respond to an email or a call, so maybe give them a shout and see what they say. Thanks for the positive feedback on the videos. Helping guys like you is the reason I do it.