Holley 750 cfm 4160 (3310-4) Disassembling for cleaning. Part # 1 

Thank you!

Good luck!

@@ronniehenson4122 Thank you! It all went together fine and seems to be operating perfectly. Thanks for these videos.

You're welcome! Thank you!

Right on!

Thank you!

You’re welcome

Glad it helped

If you have any questions during your rebuild hit me up, good luck!

Thank you! You stay safe also!

Thank you! :)

Glad it helped

Glad it helped

Welcome 👍

@@ronniehenson4122 Great video if someone plans to rebuild their carb. I got lucky that the carb still works after leaving my tanks full of gas 14 years ago. Ruined my gas tanks completely and had to pull my 69 Chevy pickup out of mothballs to use while I fixed my 78 Chevy pickup. After seeing the gas tanks I feared what the 4160 looked like and after the rebuild on the 78 I'm tackling the carb. Accelerator pump leaks from the bottom but don't want to touch it until the 78 is running. Located the main jet removal tool! Now I'm set thanks to your great video!🤠

For sure, WD 40 works great!

Yup! just couldn't think of it at the time of the video. Thanks!

The clutch head screwdriver is the one I forgot and now that I seen your guy's comment I now know which one I'll need. Located it at NAPA auto parts.

It keeps the fuel from sloshing back through the fuel bowl

O - rings on the needle valve are bad and need to be replaced. Gas is dripping into the intake.

@@ronniehenson4122 Thanks for the fast reply Ronnie it looks to me only one O ring and one needle valve on this carb? Also looks like I can leave the carb on the car and remove the needle valve and replace the O ring pretty easy yes? Thanks Brian

Soak it in solvent over night

Just the tools I'm using in the the video, are all you need.

Yes sir! Good eye

@@ronniehenson4122, really like your tutorials. Holley has been on all my race cars, and street cars since 1968. If I could put one on my airplane, I would.

@@normhodgkinson6965 I love Holley's too..................

You should be good to go without it.

@@ronniehenson4122 Thanks so much for letting me know. Do you skip the second gasket then and just use the blue gasket with the plate directly on it or have the smaller gasket on as well (two total gaskets between the body and the plate). That’s how it was when I took it apart but I wasn’t sure if that was from the previous owner or how it came originally. Thanks again!

@@plugger410 Just put the block off plate on the blue gasket and tighten the screws. It should work fine like that.

ive a '99 4160 with electric choke, i just do the same. I miss that thin plate too, maybe an improvement :D

I'm sorry Joe but, I have way too much on my plate right now.

No, save your money and just use the plate.

@@ronniehenson4122 I know it’s more $ up front, but I wasn’t sure about how many times I would have to change the plate to get it tuned correctly. Wasn’t sure if it would be cheaper in the long run to convert it so I could just change jets. The secondary plates usually pretty spot on in stock configuration? Thanks for the reply!

@@ronniehenson4122 what's the purpose of the plate?

@@elinino5275 It's a block off plate for the back when a metering block is not used.

What spout are you talking about? The squirter has a screw in the top of it, just remove it and the squirter will drop out along with the needle valve.

@@ronniehenson4122 thanks for replying. On my 4 barrel carb it looks like an upside U. There's two; one from the front bowl and one for the rear bowl. I believe it's the part that pours fuel into the carburetor?

@@48macho82 Sounds like you have a marine carburetor and those spouts are pressed in and will need to be pulled out as you rotate them back and forth.

I apologize I didn't specify that it was in fact a marine carburetor. It's a Holley carb on a 454. I will work to take it out as you mentioned. 👍

LOL! smh

It's OK, that is how we learn....just make sure you spray WD-40 on all the threads before assembly next time.