I’ve waited for us to finally see the system actually boot up and the first system test to happen. Now that it’s here i’m happy hope to see more in the future!
Really cool, the system looks great. You are lucky to have such a supportive family. Was wonderful to see your mother get involved... What I really admire is your enthusiasm and passion for the subject, and your skills... I can't wait to see what comes next! In the UK our domestic security system (an Eaton i-on-40H panel) has smoke detectors linked to it and is connected to a monitoring company, so the fire brigade would be called if they went off. We have to pay a security company to maintain it though, plus the monthly monitoring subscription etc. Keep up the good work!
Thank you. monitoring companies do not except residential customers here anymore you can be monitored but it is only them sending you a message if there is a alarm so no different than myself monitored set up I use in the garage system
Congratulations Nic, I am beyond impressed. This is the best system ever!! Also very likely the first true commercial home system as everything is spot on. I love how there’s a zone marked “Nic’s Room” Also it’s definitely not the volume that upsets Ayla but rather the frequency as humans can only pick up a max range of 2300 hz whereas dogs can hear up to 4500 hz max and I believe that trouble sounder is somewhere between 22-3000 depending on distance. (Note how the low frequency sounder does not cause upset) As for the next episode you should do a “crappy smoke alarm” durability testing with Hayden. I love those
Great work through out the videos from first fix to power and programmed up and testing Hope the family can manage to cancelling a False alarms when you not in the House.
Can’t wait to see the full system test, you did a great job and I enjoyed the series so far. Also, Honeywell did an investor’s conference earlier this year where they showed off they were going to have LED L-Series, where they were going to have a T3/T4 setting. When they come out, do you think you’ll replace the current signals of you add CO detection to the system?
Likely not I find the LED devices really ugly and I don't require any CO detection in this building as there is no hazard of it I'd have to see how the new settings work obviously I need to run more wires but I guess it's not a global setting I'd assume and it can do two different separate tones once installed
@@nics-systems-electric yeah, LED devices are pretty ugly compared to xenon devices. Also, it’s weird to see the slight differences between Canadian and American codes. Here, CO is required in all homes in the majority of states. As for the wiring, if it’s anything like Wheelock’s Eluxa line, it’ll use synchronization pulses to differentiate which of the two tones to output. On the T3/T4 setting, the Eluxa uses T3 when receiving the silence sync signal, and T4 when receiving the audible sync signal. Obviously, it wouldn’t be compatible with legacy systems, it it does save wire running costs for retrofit and new installs.
@@HenBasketFireAlarms OK that is interesting as for those devices. CO detection is not required if there's no gas service to the house or any CO producing gas
Glad the Auto program worked! (after tweaking shit lmao) If I wasnt in Texas I would been more than happy to use my Verifire acct to program for ya. Great install man!! My plans for my house is a smoke with LF sounder bases and strobe in each room (like a hotel). Heats in the garage, laundry and kitchen. My corridors are large so at least 2 smokes in them lol. Ive noticed lately that a lot of detectors have been going bad with Notifier since they switched manufacture plants, glad you got them replaced though! We've been sending back a bunch of them too. Love the video as always man!
Just as a habit from installing lots of Honeywell addressable devices, I think it is best practice to rotate the rotary wheels fully in each direction before setting address. Had a school with similar issues of double addresses from smokes on a new install. Spinning the rotary wheels solved it. I train all my helpers to do it. I don't have much experience with notifier other than older stuff but been installing farenhyt and gamewell fci for a little over five years.
Yeah for sure that's what I meant when I said wiping the dials just spitting them back-and-forth to make sure it's making right contact with the right spot
Very nice system, also very functional, it is so much better than those unreliable smoke alarms, i do recommend that you install CO alarms if you have any gas appliances
@@nics-systems-electricif there’s no danger of CO in your house then it’s all good, and by CO alarms i meant something like First Alert residential units, First Alert is a reliable brand, it’s what i use in my house
@@NyxKemo yes there's no gas I'm trying to get away from the residential style of devices so I would likely put in something with the main system if I had to
@@nics-systems-electric a cheaper alternative to addressable ones is probably a monitor module with a System Sensor CO12/24A if ever you need to add CO detection
@@nics-systems-electric I've installed a ton of pull stations next to annunciators, and never had any pushback for them being level at the bottom to the relevant code. Code generally states that a device shall not be installed GREATER than x" AFF.
pro tip: use the next/previous selection buttons while programming instead of doing detector and address (instead of detector 001, est, detector 002; do detector 001, esc, next selection) also, all your heats are on Z01, photo's are on Z03, and pulls are Z04. also also, you were using the short name field for naming, you use the thing that says DETECTOR ADDR for full name, and that field next to the zones are for the "short" name.
Yeah that is a good tip not sure why I was doing that the naming has been changed just needed something temporarily until I could get around to name everything properly
The system looks awesome! Good job. Looking forward to future system tests. One question though: Why did you put a different sounding horn in the garage? The system still sounds great but I would have thought you would have wanted the sound to be in sync. But it's no big deal at all. You've done an excellent job with this project. Keep up the good work.
Hahaha I Love how your mom said i want todo it with the pullstation @ 39:03 that's something I would say and do as well if it's something new to me LOL Congrats on your New Home Fire Alarm System I Love your Videos keep up the Awesome Work.
In the us or at least here in California if you have a apartment or hotel. You have to keep the residential smoke detectors. Even though you have the commercial system installed. You cant remove them. Some places i have seen they will monitor the independent smoke detectors. Never figured out why that is i think that is building code.
That is common if the system does not protect the individual units it's getting more and more common to have directors and sounder bases from one main system zoned separately to the individual units
I’m currently working on my 4100U basement system. About to start the mapping out all the device locations so that i can rough em in and program the system
On your air handler shutdown just interrupt "R" on the thermostat wiring. If the condensate pump was installed with the overflow safety wired it should be interrupting the same just put in series. Some of the higher end Trane/American Standard equipment like yours will have an SD or S/D terminal and you can just short it. You could also install a shunt trip breaker but they're kinda pricey.
The HVAC shutdown is already done I ended up having to do it twice with the second time shutting down a relay interrupting power to the board and the blower not sure if you can find a shunt trip breaker for a home line panel but you could find a contractor either way it would be large as you need one rated at 100 A
@@nics-systems-electric I don't recall ever seeing shunt trip in residential panels either. What you did works too. The R terminal is 24VAC to the thermostat and if that is a heat pump it will go to it too. If it's interrupted you are essentially killing control power. You must have 15 KW strips if you need 100A. Does the heat pump work well in the winters there?
@@topher8634 heat pump does work in the winter however if you try and raise the temperature too much too fast on a cold day it's a supplementary heat source will come on to assist. the thermostat only has two wires which somehow does cooling fan and heating I originally was just killing power to the control board however if the system was already running it did not shut down by killing the board
@@nics-systems-electric ok yours is a communicating system. It should have a shutdown built into the board. Is the overflow wired on the condensate pump? It'll be 2 loose wires separate from the power cord. If it is it's probably using those terminals. That's a nice system BTW.
Sometimes there are little bugs in the program that just have issues with certain devices set to certain addresses. It even happens on the old AFP style panel. For example, my AFP-200 Stopped liking the address 1D001 for whatever reason. Couldn’t fix the issue with any model detector. So I swapped it to 1D007 and it worked fine. Sometimes if you set stuff in the program wrong, the panel has a fit. But it’s definitely not you.
Hey if you want to do furnace shutdown, I believe one of the easiest ways would be to attach the red 24VAC wire running to the thermostat to a normally closed alarm relay, when the alarm goes off, it will cut the low voltage power which is responsible for sending the control signals to the HVAC system.
This is great. How come you had a lot of left over devices and what was the small bases supposed to be used for. Do you remember why the panel didn’t like those 3 devices. Can’t wait for the testing next Saturday. Also can’t wait for the expansions which will probably happen in months. How come you didn’t do a burg panel with a few smokes. Keep up the great work!
A few extra devices to do any other expansions the small bases were sent along with all the smoke detectors I ordered not sure what you're supposed to use them on as they don't fit on a standard 4 inch octagon box
Thank you. I would if there was a danger of it but for their extremely expensive cost for the addressable units when there is no danger I cannot justify it.
What does the alarm sound from the outside? Also it would be cool to add a bell outside the house to hear the alarm outside of the house. Cool system though I enjoy these videos 😁
Also place some CO Dectection in Above or within 15 feet of potential sources of carbon monoxide, such as a fireplace or stove. In or near humid areas, like bathrooms or saunas and within 10 feet of each bedroom door and there should be one near or over any attached garage. Check your local fire deoartment for more safety recommendations.
@@iansanchez1470 good recommendations. I won't be installing CO detectors as the addressable units have a very high cost and they are not necessary for my home so I cannot justify the cost
The Canadian version being federal pioneer has the same problems as the federal Pacific version in the US with high failure rates when it comes to overcurrent protection they are the same stab lok breaker in both countries
I don’t know why but the low frequency l series reminds me of voice evac, also you should durability test the smoke detectors that didn’t work with the panel
Cool fire alarm system, but why not strobe light in each rooms? I know about sounds from hallways only. Keep updating about strobe lights without sounds in each rooms when your decision. 😊👍🏻
If I was a millionnaire maybe I would however it's not required and it's more fishing wires and cutting holes into a finished space and the main thing is it's more money
Anybody but me giving you hell about the FPE panel? They can be made safer, but its not worth it in my opinion. The breakers are around 50 bucks US for a single pole; 70 for a double last time i sourced them. I'm usually able to sell a panel swap once the danger is made aware of.
I wouldn't want to put new federal replacement breakers in it as they have had busbar problems too I'd rather just get rid of it altogether the problem is finding a time you could shut down the house and the cost and if I have to upgrade circuits to arc fault.
For the ones that were taking 2 addresses, are they possibly dual-function Smoke & Heat detectors? maybe each sensor using a separate address. Not sure otherwise how that would happen but I know there are some like that out there
@@nics-systems-electric Cool, yeah I didn't know but was just wondering since that is such a weird thing to happen, and those kind of problems can be the worst to figure out
Where that hole is on the panel. You could put a Notifier ACM-24AT annunciator, but then again I am not sure if you have to have VeriFire Tools to program one of those.
Nic was that your grandma you’re talking to about how to silence it or was it your mom? I don’t know it sound like granny more I’m not trying to be mean I’m just wondering.
you should get an acm-24at, it connects via the eia-485 bus and it would fill in the blank panel you have to the left of your kdm-r2, you then would also be in compliance of the zone annunciation code canada has, it needs verifier tools and i know you dont have that but i might be able to get it for you
It would satisfy the code requiring zone annunciation not that it's required for my house but if it was it would satisfy that however not at the panel it would need to be at the annunciator and yes the problem is requiring verifier tools
Security systems are terrible. the NFW 50 would work if I owned one however the 320 is obviously the better more capable panel offering more features and more total power and can run flashscan whereas the NFW - 50 X is only litespeed and clip and devices are harder to find
can you also install cameras and burglar alarm system in your house and link the house burglar alarm panel of house to your bugler system in the garage please.
We don't want a intrusion alarm system in the house they are two completely separate buildings and it would be a pain in the ass to have them connected if you're going to make that request I am also going to need a few thousand dollars to make it possible
At the job site I’m working at with my dad they just put new fire panels in the hotels but it beeps a lot because the electrician keeps killing the power to work on the wiring but it come back on when he’s leaves to get stuff
No monitoring companies do not accept residential customers other than sending you a notification so no different than my "self monitored" system in the garage which I will likely do in the house
