Home Made Mini 4WD Trophy Truck Project - Part 1 

or you find the happy the medium of where it is good for both

I appreciate that!

He's definitely a work-a-holic. lol

@@ratherBweldingChris You have spammers in the comment section 👍

Except that motorcycles are a completely different design.

He's not going to make it street legal lol.

It can never be road legal

That is plan-B if the rack and pinion doesn’t work out

You need to keep reading. You are pretty far off on most of that. Read geometry books. It's all arcs and pivots. The level or non level starting point of a dual a arm suspension has zero to do with toe or caster. The relationship between the upper and lower arm angles in every axis is what is going to determine how the knuckles behave. The difference in length between the upper and lower is also a major factor. His suspension "designs" have all parallel arms. And pivots on the frame. There is sooooooo much more that can be achieved by moving things around with a correct design. Anti dive under braking, anti roll/roll center isn't even remotely considered or even close to understood. He could be building things 10 times cooler and better performing if he actually educated himself a little bit.

@@jasonbirch1182 Read? I have read and own 3 track cars for many years. 2 of them had bump steer on the rear and I changed the bump steer on 1 of them to be equal to a 93+ model car after the factory changed the setup. To change the bump steer (which is toe in when the car squats over bumps or in a corner lean), you change the tie rad mount location to the crossmember either in or out. Move it inward for less bump steer and outward for more bump steer. This is a fact and causes understeer and whip out when too aggressively out from centerline of the car. For the front, I have changed to fully adjustable coil overs. I change the top mount angle depending on speed, surface slope, and style of the track and how much steering effort is ideal. These are all Toyotas. 2 are MR2 from 1991 when I started modifying these cars. 1 is from 2016 and is a FR-S. Before that, I built Trans AMs, FIAT Spyders, and Alfa Romeos in the 80's. Caster was done with shims on all of them. FIAT had a pan hard rod for rear, Trans AM is a solid rear axel, Alfa is a multi-link. If you want to know the math, you simply draw a triangle in the x/z plane and the y/z plane of the length of the A-arms and the angle of the base frame and upper and lower travel limits. One for toe deflection and the other for caster deflection. It will be simple to measure the deflection distance either with a simple tape measure for something already mocked up at the limit of travel or if you want to calculate it you can use some of the trig functions of sin, cos, invsin, invcos and the lengths of the arms vs travel range. @ an angle of 8 degrees, I bet this deflection will be more than a caster shim normally used or adjusting the top mount of a coil over.

Jason's correct. 4wd and off road is way different than track. Bent up like that gives it anti dive and you want pro dive in a off road 4wd. There's a bunch of reasons rbw would want that flat instead of angled. For instance look at a 2wd Traxxas slash compared to a 4wd slash. That's the quickest reference I could think of. From experience if there's no pro dive designed into a 4wd off road truck then the suspension won't work under acceleration. It will be hard bc the anti squat will be working against it

@@ryannickfabrication I understand your position and agree somewhat, but that is not the point. The reason most frames are flat is to be able to adjust the suspension through shims, control arms, and tie rods easily for racing on a track or in this case a terrain. The calculations are simpler. We are discussing a trophy truck, not a crawler. A trophy truck is a racing class truck on a track. It is not hitting rocks like a truck that I would take to some 4 wheel drive event. I do own a truck as well.

@@sammcbride2464 well moving the mount inward isn't actually what is changing the toe gain(rear bump steer). It's lengthening the tie rod to correct the arc. Changing the mount height will dramatically affect it as well. As far as castor it still has zero to do with the angle of the control arms. We'll use 8° inclination . If upper and lower a arms are at 8° to chassis, moving up and down through travel doesn't change the castor. If it's 3° at bottom it's 3° at top. The knuckle is along for the ride at that castor angle. It just moves rearward as suspension compresses. It will cause toe change if it's not setup correctly though. You are talking about moving a top hat in a MacPherson strut suspension. That changes castor and camber depending on which way you move it and is completely different than a dual arm setup.

32" tires and 4wd will suck a lot of power regardless of vehicle weight. He should look into pro lite trophy trucks and buggie racing specs/geo

this guy doesnt even know what ackerman theory is or any basic fab knowledge. He doesnt even aline the CL on the tubes lol

For real. My full size, 609 rear steer buggy on 42s chassis is 50” wide. It’s gonna be too big, and underpowered.

@@freeridemoto7133Why are you watching his videos if you don’t like him?

@@drwhat4574 entertainment. He is a pretty skilled fabricator but he's so against actually learning the most basic of things to help with his builds. His suspension/steering geometry is already fucked up and it's barely started. "in my opinion it's better" like no one already knows these things.

@@freeridemoto7133 man that rack is soooo inadequate for this. If he tries to do offset tie rods it's going to destroy that shit on the bump out of the shed. I wish I hit the lucky lottery and got into you tube when he did and was doing this for a living. It's like almost infuriating he actually has skills/time/money to do these builds and doesn't want to learn the basics that any builder of a reasonable performance vehicle knows. I mean looking at pictures for ideas is one thing but basing your suspension geometry on it!? Okey dokey.

He does say, "Mini trophy" So he won't need that big of a truck to haul a few.

@@brianellison3525 Right. Just didn't want him to repeat the same mistakes base on the video of the other one he did. Price of steel is high.

I did think about that, but it wouldn’t work on the front for this project because the CV’s aren’t engaged with the tires in 2wd. But I am doing inboard brakes on the rear

TT definitely not racing on f150 spindles/knuckles

Careful there,we wouldn't like some aliens come and steal him for building their own spaceships.