This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ru-vid.comUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Sorry to here about your loss. Iv lost a few friends this passed year sucks. That's exactly how I want to do my little cabin I hope I can build one day but at 42 I'm running out of time I was a high pressure pipe welder for 15 years till I got deterring disc disease in my back. Love the shop that's jest a dream for me but I'm glad uz got it done.
ya thanks that what I thought , had a guy many years ago was cutting a 20k tank three miles from where It was was supposed to be purged it exploded two men where killed and did $200000 in damage to surrounding buildings we felt the blast where we were that is why I was a bit reluctant to try it, we will flush and fill you cant be too careful thanks and love you channel
Hi Ron, I've been missing some Bondo vids. I thought you went south for the holidays. Love watching your wood boiler and radiant floor videos. Keep them coming.
Hi Tom. I went hunting in Missouri for 3 weeks but I,m back home. No more concrete until spring but I’ve got some more videos coming for you guys. We renovate houses in the winter and do some metal fab stuff 👍 More heating stuff to come as well buddy. 👍
My house and shop in same design built back in 1980s. I use an Attack boiler though and for cost you can't beat it. Pretty efficient. Got boiler from co. in WV.
@@bondobuilt386 I heard about it from other homesteaders in the late seventies. www.radiantec.com/ was the outfit I called to get supplies and plans. My system is closed though to keep oxygen out.
Alex we put foam down then 2X12 all the way around for the form board then added 6" of sand in the middle to create an insulated monolithic slab. That was the edge is 12" thick footer and middle is 6" thick of concrete.
@@alextarshikov6515 Its very hard to insulate the outer haunch of a monolithic slab unless you spray foam it. . This is just one way to do it with board foam. All that sand also acts as a heat sink and thermal heat storage and will stay warm for days if you let the boiler go out so it works real good.
Man could I use a shed that size. I'm bursting at the seams with the 24' x 36' one I have. Get's pretty cold here in western Wisconsin as well. My next shed needs to be insulated for sure 😊
Great job. My former skipper / retired GC has a medium-sized solar panel on his garage feed into his radiant-heated floors in his 2-story, 5500-square-feet NorCal home. He rarely uses his central heater. Questions: 1. Why a barrel inside of a barrel? 2. You have foam under your outside block base. When you add on the weight of the walls, why doesn't the foam compact & wall go out of level? Or am I missing something?
The barrel in a barrel is just a simple way to make a boiler for this shop. The foam is under the entire slab and the footer is all poured with the slab so nothing will settle the weight is evenly distributed. The Solar panel sounds awesome for warmer climates. 👍😊
How did you go about mounting the lift with the radiant in the floor? I was curious on how you had it laid out so you did not hit the pex in the concrete.
Hi Aaron. He just runs straight water with rust inhibitor in there. You dont need antifreeze and if you did you would want to use Glycole and not the automotive type. I dont think anything could ever freeze out there because of how we insulated that building. 👍😊
Gene this is an open system. non presurized buddy. I did mention that in the video. The boiler in my personal shop has all the safety feature you mentioned because that boiler is a pressure vessel. Ill send you a link to that video. 👍👍
That’s pretty neat, me and my great uncle build pressurized wood boilers custom, up to 2,600 gallons, an idea for yours would be to have a smaller firebox and have fire tubes going from the back of the firebox to the back plate of the boiler, and then underneath the fire box have a plate from the front to the back with fire tubes in there. From the back build an adapter for smoke pipe 8inch should be good. And then build an inducer housing and inducer that sucks air from the firebox and fire tubes into the smoke pipe. We do this and we use all electronic controls therefore controlling the temperature of the smoke pipe, we use draft doors on motors that are controlled by these controls for override, max, min, and shut off which are electronically set using a retro box. And with this set up we heat water up to 220 degrees F with the smoke pipe only at 320-340ish. Using a fan coil we tie into Domestic hot water line, or radiant flooring. Also because when water is heated it creates steam which increases pressure we have an expansion tank for excess pressure that is at least 10% of the volume of the boiler.
Sometimes you can find used sheets in Buffalo New York. Not sure where you live? I get a good price from a local guy I grew up with that has a lumber store. You want polystyrene. Closed cell. 👍
Hi Mario. It is a concrete slab with an integral footer. The slab is thicker at the edge. Usually 12” thick on the edge with 2 rebar all the way around and the middle slab is around 6” thick and they are poured at the same time. 😊
Nice job on everything. I just have one question about having the wood burner inside the building. Does the owner have insurance on the building? If so, does the insurance company know the wood burner is home built and not UL Listed? I would hate to see an issue happen and coverage be denied on the building. It seems reasonable that they would require the wood burner to be moved outside and away from the building.
@@bondobuilt386 This comment may or may not be based on experience! Trust me, it sucks to take out a project that you put heart and soul into, but losing a building and not having it covered sucks even more! Really nice job tho.
Raymond I did about 50% of the welding and designed it with my buddy. We have a group of friends that hang out in our garages and do projects and have a few beers so it was a joint effort. I designed the entire heating system to include the insulation and tubing in the floor. It works real good. 👍😊
Joe I did this one with my phone. I think the case is scratched near the lense but I didn’t know it until I was editing the video. Sorry about that buddy.
Roger he burns 5 to 8 face cords a year and a lot of the wood he burns is free from where he works. They have big heavy skids he cuts up and burns. My point was he does not burn much wood for a huge shop.
Unfortunately any boiler that's just a pot with a fire inside is terribly inefficient. The most efficient (and most complicated) boiler designs have fire tubes inside like a steam locomotive. Maximum heating surface area exposed to the water. Taylor outdoor boilers are sorta like that, except they have too few fire tubes, that are too large.
Hey, sir. Does that pump run continuously or is it set to kick on with thermostat? Also, you mentioned not needing the mixing valve. What is the temp he run through his floor? I'm trying to figure out my system set up. Everyone I talk to has a different method. This seems simple, like me! I was thinking of running direct from boiler to floor. No mixing valves. Just dial the aqua stat down
I would use a mixing valve buddy. That way you can burn a hotter fire. It won't burn as good with colder water. The mixing valve is easy to hook up and will also protect the tubing from too hot off water.
Chris, I have friend that used an electric water heater to do a smaller shop, it was set up dual fuel so he could get cheaper KWH rate from utility co. Gas would work also. As long as you are very well insulated and can push about 120 degree water through the tubes, you can be comfortable. The thing to watch is the price of fuel in your area; LP, gas, electric, oil, etc.
Yes a normal gas water heater would work fine. the pros are they are less expensive. the cons are they need a chimney to vent them and they are less efficient. Depending on where you live I think I would go gas or oil over the electric. We did a house with an oil water heater and that works awesome. 😊
I like it, you could always add a radiator in the upstairs, just by plumbing and maybe putting a quiet fan behind it. It wouldn't rob too much heat from the system really. What I would like is some thermostatically controlled valves for my design. I am retro fitting a house with radiators and an external boiler but if I poured the foundation it would be sure to have some loops in it for dang sure! 👍
I bet that baby radiates nicely too when its burning. Floor heat is the absolutely best and the wood boiler is the cherry on top. Mine was outside in MN, burned about 15+ cord of oak a year. Sure miss it.
Great job on shop and boiler! Hydronic radiant heat is the way to go for house and shop. With the forced air on boiler, I bet there is very little smoke out of the chimney.
No this stove only sits here with a small fire in it all the time. If thge heat demand was more it would just need a bigger fire. Like if it was hooked too the house too. 👍😊
For better efficiency those lines should be reversed. Heat rises as does hot water. Think of a water heater. It has a dip tube so the cold water comes in at the bottom of the tank and the hot water is forced out the top. Otherwise with the return at the top all the cold water will sink and youll be circulating cooler water and the hot water will stay towards the top. Hope that helps. Beautiful shop and love the boiler. Nice vid.
Thanks man yes that does make sense but this is non pressurized and most ones we seen had pump at the bottom. pressurized ones were at the top. If I remember that return has a tube dipping down into the tank to the bottom but Im not positive about that. We built this about 4 or 5 years ago. Man it works great though. 👍👍
The vented systems should be return at the top and supply from the bottom. This will effectively mix the water in the ''boiler'' creating even temps in the water. I'm unsure of pressurized systems.
Real interested in building a wood fired boiler too. Do you recall how thick your firebox walls are? And approximately how many gallons of water your using?
Im just finishing up my boiler build. Mine looks identical to that one. Mine will heat my shop and my home. Im looking to run a simple in floor heat system like this one but also want to run forced air heat exchanger.
Thats awesome. Did you use a propane tank to build it? I got some good tubing videos that should help you with that part. You'r gonna love that boiler if it works as good as this one does. 👍👍👍
We have more to do this spring buddy 👍😊 Thanks for Subscribing and thanks for saying something about my buddy. This video has over 20 K views and your the only one that said that. ❤️❤️
Chris we just cut up an old propane tank that was converted to an air storage tank. I'll see if I can get you a link for the fan and controls we used. 👍👍
All I got are the photos of us building the boiler and shop. We built this before I started doing RU-vid so I don't have any video footage of the build. Sorry.
@@bondobuilt386 Thanks man! I definitely will be doing the infloor hydronic heat for sure! Just trying to figure out a practical boiler! Was thinking elec powered by wind n solar.
Please do not install 5000K or higher LED lights. The higher the number in K(Kelvin), the more blue light emitted by the LED's. do some research on effects of blue light on your eyes!
thanks for the video. I want to do an outdoor setup, might build a shed around it just for extra frost protection, easier to protect from freezing in the case of power loss. Anyway, how did you guys cut the propane tank safely? purge with CO2?
Terry sounds like a good setup. We filled it with water until it weas running out the top then cut it with a demo saw with a metal cutting blade on it. 👍👍
Terry we layed it horizonal and filled it with water and started cutting from the top and if you keep rolling it and cutting from the top the water will run out. but you can still cut. Then you can keep a garden hose running in there as you cut.
@@bondobuilt386 Thanks, I was thinking the exact same thing that you did. I've also got a C02 cylinder I could use to back purge as water emptied out. The other thing I'm wondering about is, how to stop it from overheating and melting the pex if your demand is low for heat in the house? ie. if I turn my thermostate down and it stops circulating? I think I'll be Ok with the shop hooked up, just crank it up in there and let it cool that way. Does water volume come into play here? as in, huge water tank will absorb tons of latent heat when the fire smolders and stay stable and not overheat the pex? thanks for the help! your an HVAC guy right? I'm a mechanic by trade, built my house with help from friends and family, have the infloor heat in the house on electric boiler, but really want to do the outdoor wood idea for house, then shop on return with just forced air in shop, I didn't have time/funds for infloor out there, which sucks
@@Pneumamechanical You just will want a mix=ing valve off the boiler so the pex won't get to hot of water. You are correct that more water volume = more heat storage. the boiler will maintain whatever temp you set the aqua stat ( the little grey box in the video) so if boiler hits its set point the fan will shut off and damper will close and it will smelter the fire down. Hope that makes sense. Bondo 👍
Great tutorial video. I did something similar 40 years ago in a location that was all sand. Also 8 and 10 walls with log siding . 3 feet of cellulose in the attic and heating was no problem. But no radiant heat in the floor at that time. Instead a raised floor above the slab with smaller baseboard heaters under the floor at the location of each door and 1 central of the floor. The baseboard under the floor at each door location always took care of the in coming snow inside the house by the doors by evaporation ... Great job for a cold climate.
I suggest a chimney exhaust fan . When you open the door the smoke will come out. Also the boiler needs makeup air to ensure a negative draft if the shop is all closed up. You can get a motorized damper cheap on ebay.
Your welcome. 👍 the insulation is under the drain so not much heal us lost. There is a 3” pipe that hooks to the trench drain and pops out the back of the slab to drain the trench drain. If heat is lost it must be minimal because that shop is always super warm. Lol
Hay why no new vids in the last month , I am thinking about building a outdoor wood out of a 1000 gal propane tank gut any pointers thanks Post more stuff
Considering radiant floor heat for new construction. Would there be an advantage to pulling the mesh & pex up higher into the concrete when pouring? I realize that you'd have to be careful cutting expansion joints and be mindful of where the lines are run when bolting things like the lift, into the concrete.
No advantage at all. The experts say it should be in the bottom. If you want wire pulled up do a double wire mat. Pull the top mats up that are over the tubing. Leave the tubing and first layer on the bottom buddy. 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 Thank you for the quick reply! Sounds like a plan. Any advice on how to pull up the top layer of wire mesh without grabbing the layer w/ pex attached? Also, any tips on spreading the sand over foam insulation without breaking it? I guess getting the base really flat before placing the foam is key?
Hey Jeff we have been doing alot of radiant heat jobs with spray foam so that would be one way to insulate under the sand but yes if you use board foam you want the sub base real flat and put the sand down as you lay each row of foam. use a laser level so you have the sand where you need it. That spray foam is frock solid. I have videos of how that looks after it hardens. check it out buddy. 👍 As far as the wire we made hooks up that we pull it with I dont think it would be bad if you dedicated a guy to just pull wire up as concrete was being placed. If you tried hooking the top wire after concrete was placed it would be harder not to get that tubing layer.
@@bondobuilt386 so you are heating water in a boiler without any pressure relief? I understand that you say its not pressurized. What would happen if the outlet got blocked?
@@rogerwhiting9310 if the outlet got blocked it would react the same as a pressurized boiler that pressure relief was blocked. It is wide open outlet in the top so not sure how it would get blocked?
Love the Radiant heat vids...especially the homemade boiler stuff, I was kinda afraid of it till seeing this one. I'm gonna be pouring a 30 x 60 for my shop in the spring and this is one of the things I wanna include. Extreme thanx for the info!!!
Hey Bondo, I wondered if you could answer a question for me. If I were going to try to build one of these boilers, would I be able to use a galvanized pressure tank(from a well) for the inside chamber or do you think that the galvanizing would cause a problem inside of the water chamber, I know it would burn off inside of the fire chamber walls and I’m not really worried about that but do you think it would cause an issue inside the water chamber as far as possibly coming off and plugging lines ect.?
Hi there Grant. I don't think The tank would be heavy enough for the boiler buddy. and I would worry about the water getting impurities from that tank. Try and find an old air tank or propane tank.
It too me a long time to learn to store tools and parts neatly. Still messy because I have far more stuff than I have room to keep. The water heater is clever but I wonder about the safety. If the expansion tank vent clogs that could pressurize and become dangerous. The shop looks great. I suggest getting a ton of 1 1/2 square steel tubing and making a lot of shelves.
As a P.E. in NY, I am not pleased that they built their own boiler. There is a reason all boilers are subject to inspection and stamping as pressure vessels. Plus there are a number of required safety features, such as T&P relief. Just because you can build a boiler doesn't mean you can build a SAFE boiler.
Not a PE and have an honest question. Also not trying to turn this into a youtube comment shitshow. Is it really a boiler? I know it is referred to as a boiler but really isn't it just a hot water heater (below 212 and not under pressure)? If there were any issues wouldn't it just spill out the relief on the top and run onto the ground, just like a T&P but minus any mechanical valve (that can fail). This "boiler" is not under real pressure. Also couldn't you just dump the excess heat into the slab?
Richard as stated in the video this is Not a pressurized boiler. This is an open system and builds zero pressure. If over fired it will just boil over and get the floor wet. So yes it is a safe system. Thanks for the comments though. 👍👍
With the commentary that it is intended to be an unpressurized boiler, it would be thought there should be no issues. However, holes can become plugged. Periodic maintenance should reduce that issue, but don't be surprised if you get an inspector who has a problem with it.
I laid radiant heat pipe in my garage 22 by 24. I'm going to heat it with a woodstove I have. Wrap copper pipe around the drum stove and run it into a hot water tank. Which will be gas heated as well. But the primary heat source will be wood. Any advice you can give me regarding this system would be greatly appreciated. Especially water pressure relief and circulation pump needed.
Taco 0015 IFC is a three speed pump that will handle many applications. This will most certainly handle the radiant heat tubing zone. A Taco 007 would be a cheaper pump that you could use to run between the wood stove and the water heater tank.I think I would hook the system up from the water heater to the in floor tubing as if there was no wood stove then hook the wood stove loop to a side arm heat exchanger on the water heater to just pre heat the water heater with wood when the stove is burning. You can build a side arm heat exchanger. I did one for my domestic water from my wood boiler.
