This video shows the steps taken to fit 6 'horn blocks' to a set of scale steam locomotive frames. The horn blocks were fabricated from mild steel of cuts which were silver soldered together.
Crispin, your work is peerless, and your passion is relentless! I am an old timer from the U.S. and I think as a young man, you have your ducks in a row! Can't wait to see that beauty when it's finished.
Hello Crispin, Nice work. I love all the hand fitting. I find this kind of work very satisfying to do and to watch. Thanks for sharing your project. All the best, Tom
There are so many bits and pieces on this video to file under "reference". Excellent bit on hardening the riveting tool. I was thinking "he better move that flimsy plastic cup out of the way before it melts down", not realizing that was your quenching bucket! Never in a million years I would have thought you could quench in a plastic cup :-)
Nice job Crispin, in all my years of metal working I've not worked with this type of riveting. Thank you for teaching an old dog a new trick!! Very clever idea on silver soldering jig! For such a young guy, your wisdom seems to exceed your years!! Well done young man! Razor!
My youngest son and I have been very much inspired by your videos. So much so that between you and our local live steam club we are going to build a loco. Not sure what one yet but we have learnt so much from watching your films. Please do continue. It really is great watching your loco take shape.
Awesome....amazing craftsmanship! Keep up your good work and I look forward to the next video. I'm sure all "mentors" (Mr Fenner, Mr Pete, Mr Lipton, Mr Booth" etc.) will be pleased to see such good young machinist keeping the trade alive. Sorry for my bad english it's not my native language. Best wishes from Quebec, Canada
Well thanks Mr Pete for putting me on to crisping s channel brilliant work the next kieth fenner for a 2nd year apprentice you blew me away can't wait for next video good luck
Great video. Very informative as always. You always explain everything very clearly. As a beginner these videos are invaluable to me. Thank you very much for taking the time to show us. Your very talented.
Fitting the axle boxes to the horn blocks: Avoid making them too close a fit. Remember the suspension on a steam loco has a ridgid axle and as the suspension operates the axle boxes may not rise evenly each side of the engine. Some parts are sprung whilst other parts are not and will need a little play to cope!
Awesome job. One of the coolest videos ive ever watched. And that's saying ALOT. Lol. I dont know if my arm would hold up to 100 rivets. What is that, like 10-12,000 swings of the hammer? Uh, yeah that arm would be useless jelly for a week or so. Lol. Thanks for sharing these techniques. I greatly enjoyed it, and im excited for the next video.
again, lovely work. its jsut an option. but for my loco i waited to machine the inside of the horns, until i had a fully assembled chassis. i then mounted it upside down on the mill and machined the inner horn faces. that way i got them all parallel to eachother. but im sure with the quality your working to, you wont have a problem.
I have been made very happy to watch your work - thanks again, chuck I notice that you are using metric and English measurement systems. Some years ago, two companies had used metric and American systems had assumed the other was using the system they used...that created a horrible incident with space systems. / thanks Chuck
Great video, very informative I lerned a few bits there, I am just about to do some double ended riveting on my 3 inch allchin. Maybe a video on double ended riviting would be very useful subject.
How did you form the cup for the vise mounted rivet set and ensure it was the correct across head dimension and radius ? Or did you just heat the end and whack a ball bearing ? Malcolm
since watching this i have read some people are saying riveting can distort, i i like the idea to use rivets rather than bolts or similar, would you still use the rivets today?
Took way too long to do!. What would poses you to cut out that rectangle by drilling a bunch of holes next to each other and filing smooth instead of just using an endmill? Were all your endmills broken at the time?
As to the question of holding the webs before silver soldering, you said “if I had been welding I could have tacked them in place”. Would that not have been a solution for silver soldering too? Tack weld one spot to put them in place, and then silver solder the whole lot. It would have made the part more accessible during silver soldering. Maybe it is a stupid thought, if so please say so, I am just a beginner and not in this size anyway (search for my nickname and you will find my website). Wonderfully interesting videos though and no doubt I am not the first one to note that.
Thanks for your comment. Yes what you have suggested is actually a solution that people use. Tack weld and then silver solder. The only issue comes with other materials. Typically allot of thin brass and copper fabrications are done by silver soldering and in thoes cases tack welding could be a bit risky. Cheers.
G'day MrCrispin I have found your videos extremely interesting and very helpful as I am building a Super Simplex 5" gauge loco. I have never attempted anything like a locomotive before, so any advice I can get hold of is very helpful. Your machining skills are a marvel to watch and you have already taught me a lot, especially about making jigs ect . I have subscribed and I look forward to your next videos. What would be your advise on a good book on the making of miniature locomotives or machining in general? Thank you once again kind regards John Tasmania Australia
+John Kinnane Hi Good to hear from you. Im pleased to be of help. Ive been fortunate enough to have experienced moel engineers to consult when I need help so I have never really read much on the topic. I believe the book on building the 5" Sweat Pea is good.
you call one end of the hammer a 'dome' end....we call such a hammer a 'ball peen hammer' but I don't know why. again, your videos are super....I have learned a lot an it informs me of my wife's dad who was a machinist with the Rock Island Arsenal. Interesting for me is that you say 'soLdering' why we leave the L silent, 'sawdering' :)
I think you shorted yourself when you said there were 102 rivets. Each horn has 18 rivets and there are 6 horns which makes it 108 rivets you had to hammer in. Still a LOT of hammering. Nice work.
I was watching the next video and saw that you had cut a corner off of one of the horn flangess to make room for the boiler. If you did this to the horn on the opposite side, you would have eliminated 6 rivets and put in 102 rivets and not 108.
