In this video I show methods suitable for the production of piston and valve rods. The rods manufactured belong to the cylinder block assemblies of my 5" Gage steam locomotive 'B1 Springbok'.
Thank you, you have renewed my faith in the traditional British apprenticeship scheme ( full apprenticeship not a half assed 1 or 2 year job ) we can still produce some of the best engineers in the world ! Looking forward to regular editions.
MrCrispin in 2015 made an excellent video on how the piston and valve work on a steam engine. It was so well done that even an ordinary person like me could understand the timing of the steam and exhaust work. I looked at some of his other videos. This man has talents far above most of us. I am never going to accomplish what he is doing but I watch his videos so that I know how a meticulous genius works.
Again, thank you for sharing your insight - I had never heard of lapping center cones before. You have a very nice setup, lots of good gear and knowledge to make good parts even at home!
The amount of stuff I learn when watching your videos is incredible. Two standouts for me was the cone lapper and using a v-block on the surface plate to hold stock perpendicular. I can't afford a cone lapper but I have a pair of v-blocks! I also think I need to purchase a more recent Machinery's Handbook. I use my fathers 12th edition dated 1944! A bit of info on turning speeds would also be of interest when machining. I think someone is having a bad day considering you got a thumbs down. I would like to see them produce a quality video demonstrating their engineering capabilities. Cheers. Andrew
Thanks. you could lap cones in a lathe I reckon. Inbetween the tailstock centre and a monted point in the lathe spindle. You could put a diamond dresser in the tool post and dress the point to 60degrees with the topslide. Just watch that wheel dust!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Yeah, I just abrasively pointed several rods today, my cleanup protocol is vacuum not only the ways, but bed, pan, wheels and control panel too, the stuff picks up an electrostatic charge and clings everywhere, which means it can migrate back to where you don't want it. I end the session with a good mineral spirits wipedown over the same areas. I love what my toolpost grinder can do, but I treat the fallout like it was nuclear waste.☺
As usual, interesting and comprehensive, I'm a fan of between centre machining for jobs of this type, you can't beat it for concentricity and repeatability, although I have not seen cone polishing before. Also nice to see the continual cleaning of the morse taper, and sockets, most people seem to think they are self cleaning, it's a good habit to get.
Thank you very much for posting, I find it very enjoyable to watch your clever engineering, and solutions to various problems. In my humble opinion you are a brilliant person indeed.
Thank you again for a good video. You do have some nice gear, particularly in this vid being the Cone lapping set up, hmmm. Need to do something like that to refine grinding between centres. Glad your at it again.
Evening again Mr Crispin 🤠 Never in a million years I could ever do what your doing lol 😂 But what a fantastic job your doing showing top class engineering in a simple form with out frying my brain 😆 Does your brother know you've still got his toothbrush 🤣 Cheers Stevie
Great video once again. Have been hobby machining for many years and still learn alot every time I watch one of your videos. For example, I had not heard of centre lapping, now I have, Thankyou.
Thanks Mr Crispin for another outstanding video, I have enjoyed it and learned something that I was curious about in the past, that was regarding the high points and the low points in the threading application, many thanks,, I like many other people looking forward to seeing some more of your videos and work, take care of yourself and your family, all the best.....Phil
Great vlog, I haven't seen a cone lapper for twenty odd years 👍. Many expect stock material to be geometrically perfect, bright round, etc. Thanks for sharing. Regards John.
I won’t regret any decision made in my life, but you make me wonder if machining should have been. Love your channel and even I’m not engineer nor machinist, I understand every bit of your work. Thank you for sharing ypur knowledge.
I did indeed enjoy watching. Albeit slow, it's fun watching you build these parts. After all you do not want to rush into things do you?. I thought not. I started a Stuart steam engine during high school in 1981, got about half done. Life with it's twists and turns brought three or four diversions along the way! Therefore I am still not finished. However nearly 40 years later I do now have an adequate machine shop, all the parts, drawings and toolingl. I figure it will make a nice retirement project. Besides, I am a much better machinists now than I was at 18. Cheers from New Hampshire USA🍻🍻
Thanks for the tips on lapping the center cones and making out the features with the magnetic v-block. I think I spotted some packing foam aiding in the threads measurement with wires and that seems much more useful than trying to get them to stick to the work with grease!
WOW... Of all the precision junk I have done over my days, never once did it ever occur to me to hone the center drill holes for turning between centers.. I learned something today.. Thanks, Mr. Crispin...
Something mysterious about that. I've never seen it done before. I've never seen this standard of work before - and recently, I've watched quite a few vids going on about accuracy simply wondering if they're that fussed, why are they not turning between centres ? BUT, deciding I'm a scientist, it raises many questions about centre drilling - having a taper - do those hole actually match the centres' angles the part is going to run on ? What is the purpose of honing - if it was necessary for the drilled holes, why is it not necessary also for the centres the work's going to be mounted on ? PERSONALLY, I think a bit of roughness is good - as pockets of oil.
@@millomweb I personally do not know anything of the advantages of honing the holes, But, when or if, trying to be precise in manufacturing, every step taking to weed out any issues can either introduce or reduce precision efforts.. but, if the method is perfected and a part of manufacturing routines, and honestly handled with great care, well, I say, jump in with both feet. Would this be a step that I would use in my shop, 99% of the time, no. But, now I know about this and I will look into this. I think for something like rifled gun barrels that honing would really show it true worth. I am now glad I know this though. I kinda see it as the tool in the tool box, that you hardly ever use, but when you use it, you are absolutely glad you just already have the tool to get the job done.. If that makes any sense?.. I found it an interesting concept, due to having never thought or seen such a thing.. and as I think about when first seeing Mr. Crispin showing this process, I actually have been bit in the booty, just from burrs. Which is clearly my fault, but the honing practice, is a step that would focus ones attention to the holes for turning between centers a little more.. It really is a neat subject matter.
@@drubradley8821 I'm pretty much with you on all you say - new to me too. Thing is, the honing machine has no reference point - so nothing stopping it taking more off one side than the other moving the centre holes ! So, it's a good question - does it make things better or worse ??? I don't have an answer for that, just my suspicions. Another point is his use of the fixed steady. He never said if he machined part of the bar true before using the steady on it. If not, then the bar is running on its original surface which as he demonstrated would not be true to the centre holes. Being precise is a complete work of art and relies entirely on everything being traceable. The honing and steady use was not !
@@drubradley8821 I think what should have happened is that the centre drill should have been used then the hone placed in the tailstock - so the hone is kept true to the centre hole.
Its all traceable, I checked the OD of the stock after cone lapping so I knew what errors were present. Equally yes I did use the steady on an un machined surface but again I had measured what errors were present, and deemed them acceptable. The key to cone lapping is that the part is free to self align centre to centre. I will do a video on cone lapping theory as it seems to have interested people. Cheers Crispin
Absolutely good all your videos, instructive and nice explaination. Really quality videos and job. I learn a lot at 68 yearl old with Guy like you, thank’s a lot. Respectueuses salutations
Considering how badly the aerospace has been impacted by covid-19 they may have locked him out. Let's hope those industry sectors recover well or find new markets for their exceptional skills.
OMG I seem to recall one of your previous videos saying you had only been doing machining for 5 years, cant be right. Ive been mucking around in my workshop for years and couldn't get anywhere near what you are doing.
I'd like to hear your thoughts on how the steady rest might have influenced the precision of the results, since it somehow introduces a third reference point. This seems like a case of "truly no perfect answer!"
future ref... tie your drive dog to the drive tang on the drive plate, with some type of stretchy tape, so it keeps your slack out, especially when thread cutting.. sure is a pain in the booty, but a razor blade to cut the tape off, when you need to pull the part out to check a dimension, is just part of it.. Electrical tape, unknown if that is something that is offered where you live, but, it is cheap and goes a long ways per roll. Also, the area of the rod, between the threaded areas, wouldn't or shouldn't that be a larger diameter then the threads, so the spool stays centered, especially when you go to tighten the nuts to hold the spool in its place.. Or is that so the center line of the rod, is allowed to float independently from the spool, as the rod will be in alignment with the end caps of the housing, and the spool needs to have its own center line?.. just wondering... I am so glad you are back in the office, rocking and rolling on this project.. I hope the employment is doing for you and your family all that you wished it to be. As Rolls Royce is well known for having some of the finest craftsmen and designers in the world... You lucky duck.. good job, Mr. Crispin.
Good point regarding the dog, that could have landed me in a pickle when screw cutting. And yes your geuss is spot on, the threads are in clearance allowing the bobbin to self centre.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises A plus point of using a dead centre in the tailstock - a little friction to ensure there was no play in the dog drive / 'carrier'.
Very interesting and educational, terrific video as ever. I am a bit puzzled about the valve rods though. I can see that for the piston rods straightness and concentricity might be really important and worth a lot of careful measurement. But if I have understood properly, that valve spool must have an internal diameter of at least .247" (else you can't get it over the threads on assembly?) and it's sitting on a section that is .215" diameter. I see that the retaining nuts will hold it in a precise position axially, but radially it seems to have a total of over 30 thou, so 0.75mm, of play. Given that one end of the spool could be 30 thou in one direction and the other 30 though in the other direction, seems to me that all concentricity is controlled by the hole the spool moves in, and the rod could be bent like a banana and would make no difference - you could have used the stick from your neighbours garden and a whittling knife. e.g.did the centres really need honing for the valve rod? I am obviously missing something.
Yes you are right about the clearances. The valve spool aligns it's self from the bore diameter. Accuracy is still required for the rid however as it runs in a diameter at both ends of the valve cylinder and the faces of nuts controling the spool need to be square. Cheers
Yes you are right about the clearances. The valve spool aligns it's self from the bore diameter. Accuracy is still required for the rid however as it runs in a diameter at both ends of the valve cylinder and the faces of nuts controling the spool need to be square. Cheers
I hope you worked your work so that the end that had the least run out was the end staying at stock diameter. Because the other end was smaller you could machine out much of the run out that way.
I have seen other machinist struggle with those thread measuring wires. It's just a fraction of a second but just after 19:55 you can see he has the wires stuck in a block of black packing foam.
Great video. I am really looking forward to seeing the watch completed ... locomotive, I mean. (Seriously, I suspect, you'd have a great time making watches. As a starting point, you could have a look at Steffen Pahlow's videos. His user name here is spahlow, and this is him fitting his precision regulator with a more precise escapement that does not introduce perturbations into the pendulum watch?v=u398AX45jkg).
Great segments. I am a little confused on how you are aligning the spool piece when you have removed the center section between the threads which would hold the spool concentric. If you are using the thread crowns which were reduce in diameter as you pointed out, it would seem that the alignment of the spool piece and the shaft would not be concentric, and the effort to align the threads not as beneficial as it could be.
So, no e-address offered :( Also no website :( I have 2 video requests - a shop tour - with some instances of demonstrations - and a lecture video on a problem. E-mail me to find out more on that - details on my 'about' page. And, by this stage of typing, I've forgotten the third thing I was going to mention :)
@@MrCrispinEnterprises thanks much- i have regular lathe dog- tail doesn't reach faceplate groove- cant find a short enough center (MT3) to make tail fit into faceplate- seems all the centers are about 5 inch long
You can sometimes use a 4 jaw, put a piece of stock in and turn a 60 degree point to use as a centre. Then put the drive dog tail against one of the jaws. Alternatively buy an MT3 'soft centre' and then just machine it down to the required length.
HOMEWORK - yes MrCrispin, yours !..........."What's that in your lathe?" I've head you and others refer to it as 'stock'. It's not what I'd call it. With many references to the Oxford English Dictionary, I considered this 'stock' as: "A piece of metal [belonging its owner] taken from a *stock* room or store to be worked on. That would seem logical to me as to why you are referring to it as 'stock'. "We have 5 bars 2" dia by 6' long in stock." The OED suggests: Stock, "The raw material from which anything is made" - that also fits the bill - and maybe the origin of your usage of 'stock' to mean that. I'd tend to call it my 'work' as it is what I'm working on. 'Save your work' - as most computer users are familiar with. That meaning may originate from physical work and give rise to common variants like work-station. So I'd be quite happy with: "Take your work out of the lathe, turn it round and put it back in the other end first to finish off machining what was in the chuck." On the lines of 'work', the OED offers: Workpiece: "The object which is worked on with a machine or tool." I think work or workpiece is more obvious than 'stock'. I'd be interested to know what RR 'experts' make of this - so that's your homework ;)
You’ve done a good job but you could have just turned the original diameter and then put on the threads, it would have all been concentric and would have been less trouble. Also could you show us your brothers teeth.
MrCrispin either way would work but you got the result in the end, if the total runout was within a thou the length of the rod was long enough to allow a little flex. I like the way your workshop is neat and tidy, it usually produces neat and tidy work.
Oh I think I miss understood your original comment. Were you referring to just leaving the threading diamter at .250 instead of turning down to 0.247? If so then I understand your point.
MrCrispin I was referring to gripping a slightly larger bar in the chuck with a centre in the other end and then turning all the diameters and turning the threads in one go so that it’ll all be concentric, but now you’ve just pointed out it’s only .250 dia which I didn’t realise ( you tube can give a different perception) I fully understand why you did it your way. Well done a keep up the good work.
@Tony Wilson The centre lathe - that almost no one uses to turn between centres and instead, they complain endlessly about chuck/jaw run-out. I think it's time RU-vid machinists made a habit of turning between centres ! Bring it back into fashion ! Must say, never considered work swapping like that to do matching machining - between centres is a great way to do it. Comparing other YT videos, the other amazing thing about this work - he managed it without a DRO ! Neither my lathe nor milling m/c has any electronics on them !
Super Tutorial, SPOILT by TOO many adverts. AND YES before someone tells me I can PAY to not have adverts, why should I have to pay 12 Dollars Month to stop them when these videos used to be full content without interruptions. Often too the ads are LOUDER than the video and make me jump when they appear. Keep the videos coming Crispin.
Why do you call the fixed steady a 'steady rest' ? I know why you used it - but surely you should have trued the surface up you used it on before doing so ?
Thanks for your comments. Steady rest is a common term for the aperatus shown. Fixed steady and Traveling steady are probably the most popular terms but Steady rest and Following rest are also valid. Truing the surface up before you use the Steady would be sensible although the section of diameter fist was in an already rather flexible place. Also I have already checked between centres and there were no large errors meaning the stock diameter was usable. I don't currently have a contact email for RU-vid but it's a good idea. I will bear your request for a workshop tour in mind. Many Thanks Crispin
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Steadies - I wonder if the 'other' names are US variants. Use of steady - totally agree any pre-machining for use of a steady would only be light cuts but that's all it would have needed in any case. e-mail - perhaps you can drop me an e-mail (use my YT username @gmail.com) then I can make some suggestions you'd be happy to go along with ? (without publicly spilling the beans)
Hya Mr C. Love your content, but the interrupting in-reel ads were super annoying. I always try to let one or two ads run to completion (or to 30s) to give you ad revenue, but I ALWAYS skip in-reel ads, and if I can’t skip those then I skip your video. PLEASE disable in-reel ads for your videos!
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