Seriously guys. We don't use match sticks at the MeWe group . We assemble our primers with actual primer compounds. We make our own... actually we teach you to make your own.
Glad I waited to the end of the video... you mentioning the "distilled water"...LOL.. I was bouncing on the edge of my couch.. But, you covered it.. I will go back under my rock and hide... As per the additives that are in bottled water and regular ole tap water, yes, there is allot of junk in it. One of the papers you linked me too about a year ago (approx) put me on a path to another paper that didn't have much to do with primers, but salt and chlorine and the various effects on the various sodium's and at various burn temps and various burn rates.. Which, until reading that one, I hadn't really put much thought into burn rate and burn temp and what the direct outcome results in different types of sodium's. Granted, the amount of chlorine/sodium that is with in a single drop of tap water VS a toxic measure of lethality, well, by my rough calculations, a man would have to rap off about 20 million primers with in a sealed off closed room about the size of 2 foot cubed (a box around ones head) in efforts for any worry... But, if there is another way to do it better, WHY NOT do it better, cleaner, safer, etc... Either way, a drop of something is needed... Thank you for the video. The past year or three, since I have been experimenting with PRIME-ALL compounds, I spend more time learning chemistry and reading papers then actually firing them off..LOL.. And I am loving it.. Upon a side note, I still have that large batch of test coupons of spent and unspent compounds (formulated as directed) on the various metals, to see the corrosiveness, various grade/alloys of aluminum, likewise with grades of steel, and stainless steel, and alloys of copper and the brass alloyed family. I check it about every month or 3.. Nothing notable yet as per pitting, rust, dusting/converting, stickiness... I am thinking about setting up an additional test, by cutting the samples in half with a razor blade, scrape each pile into 4 piles on each coupon, and drawing a line to divide the pair of piles with a wax pen, so there is a unspent charge, and a spent charge on one side of the wax line, and likewise, for the other two piles opposite of the wax line. one side dropping 2 to 4 different gun oils or cleaning solvents on those... It really should be a whole different set of test coupons to not contaminate the original test I have going on. The theory is, the wax line (hopefully) will prevent the leaching or wicking action of the oils as the oil tries to flatten out on the whole surface of the coupons? I don't know.. I may wait until I am satisfied with the testing I have waited this long for, to do a real world testing, that doesn't cost me anything, like buying one of those $90K weather stress testing machines that can do 5 years worth of corrosion in like 4 days.... I think not!!!! Imagine the amount of primers a guy could buy with $90K, even at today's over priced products... Pardon the novel.. I am just having fun with this stuff, as it seems like you are too. To give you another update, Which I won't and can't give the details on here, but, I am also playing with extraction of certain compounds out of simple products that even a child can walk into a store and purchase, meaning, these products are not regulated by any authoritarian safety committee's. They are not volatile on their own, but, trying to locate the raw compounds is either nowhere to be had, or cost prohibitive, so, what products out there actually do have what I want in them and how do I extract or divide them out to get or leave the one I want behind... Again, I am loving this stuff. Although, the numbers say it is safe to do, I still do it in micro quantities, as an example, like a pile of normal table salt crystal sized granules, maybe about 50 to 100 Approx and by weight, it is like 0.002gr until I understand what things are doing. Hows come middle school and high school chemistry was this fun? LOL... Oh, and another project I am working on is, a manually controlled cup straightener, and peen leveler or remover, with a shaker bin, to turn the cup upright to flow into a track, that simmy's to a place holder, kinda like the holding area of the RCBS hand primer tool and the spring loaded cam action via the hand crank, does it all in one 360 rotation. I am still working out the bugs for making the design easier to unjam/unclog if a magnum cup slips into the troth. with out having to pull the top of the unit apart. or if one goes in cup-down-wards, that is really a mess then. Top and bottom have to come apart..
Noe dies makes a bushing for the primer reloader that help with some of the jams. Resizes the primer cups to round. noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/gun-parts/tools/primer-sizing-die-set/
I've gotten my EPH20 kit back out after a year and made some SRP's, SPP's and LPP's just for fun, it got a lot of attention from fellow reloaders on Tiktok, I sent several to your channel. I need to try wetting after putting anvil in if it will get 98% to 100%. I'm still pleased with how great they work lightly packing, wetting 50% iso then hemp rolling paper then seating anvil. I'm going to try obsidian glass powder instead of light bulb glass for the hell of it to see any changes. Thanks for the video!
@@helpmenowmark Thanks for the reply, I haven't, need to check it out, just got back into it again. I will lose the disk, thanks, anything to speed it up. I have always returned anvils to the cup they came from since day one. Now just using factory primers I've shot and sorting already vs a big jar of cleaned spp and lpp.
I'm so glad I found your channel! I just heard that primers will be going up in price again( shocker), your channel will be one more and more relevant. Now, if we could just design a tiny multi stage press for primers :)
Id have to look it up but i think that would work well. There is a chart i.ll have to google. If i find it i'll share here and post on www.aardvarkreloading.com. i don't think it will adversely react with the other ingredients. Check that - except the nc ( ground gunpowder). It will soften but once the acetone evaporates - it will remain nc. I'd have to test it to make sure (easily done). Good question.
Our MeWe group adopted a primer recipe called EPH 20. To make the powder "go live" it must be activated. It is activated with (of all things) water. But we want the powder to be totally saturated/completely soaked from top to bottom with water or else the powder at the bottom of the cup won't burn (after it dries). So we learned to add a little bit of alcohol to the water which in-turn decreases the surface tension of the water. This allows the water to penetrate the dry powder more easily (all the way to the bottom of the cup). The alcohol has a second benefit. Once it has done it's job of assisting in activation - it dries faster/easier so the primer will be ready to reload faster. It's simple yet amazing as to how smart those guys (the chemists) are. But they teach ordinary folk like me how to do it. I, in turn, teach my listeners ( all free of charge). My next entry is an invitation to to the MeWe groups where you can see other lessons, ask questions and such. All are welcome to join.
Hi there! Jump Start 1 - I'm trying to get you going! rumble.com/vjdy5h-reloading-primers-for-beginners-jump-start-1.html AardvarkReloading.com and MeWe’s Primer Reloading and Primer Reloading for Beginners Chat Forums go hand-in-hand. Please go to one of the chat rooms and let us know what information you need to get started reloading your own primers and our group of members will do their best to provide it. We are very interested in your success in this endeavor. There will be no ridicule of any questions you ask no matter your experience level. We grow by utilizing your background and experience in your various professions - so please be willing to share. The MeWe chat forums consist of the best group of guys on the internet in primer reloading and other skills and you're now a part of it. Primer Reloading group (known as Second Floor): mewe.com/join/primerreloading If you find the Primer Reloading group chat too technical, try the ground floor: mewe.com/join/primerreloadingforbeginners You will be welcomed in both!!! My website: I publish much of this info on: aardvarkreloading.com ==== MeWe Navigation ==== MeWe Navigation - Groups: rumble.com/v15wnom-homemade-primers-mewe-groups.html MeWe - How to Chat: rumble.com/v15x61q-homemade-primers-mewe-chat.html MeWe - How to Post: rumble.com/v15x61q-homemade-primers-mewe-chat.html Posting Photos and Files: rumble.com/v18j51b-homemade-primers-mewe-groups-photos-and-files.html and Finally . . . One of the ingredients of many primer formulas is glass (from 'say' a broken light bulb). But this glass must be hand ground to the consistency of flour! The information and all my tutorials are free but I must pay for the website, software, tools, and chemicals for R&D. Click on the link below if you would like to help keep this effort going (and I'll send pre-gtound glass in return). Thank you! aardvarkreloading.com/aardvark.html
@@helpmenowmark pretty sure Brian is talking about Dimethyl sulfoxide. I'm not up to speed on the specific reaction that activates the compound, but there are a lot of different things you could experiment with in the place of isopropyl. The easiest thing that comes to mind to see if it makes any difference is ethanol. The difference between isopropyl and ethanol(without kicking off an organic chemistry class) is 1 carbon atom. Not sure if there would be any difference without knowing the details of the reaction, but maybe 🤷♂️
Where does one find it? How much does it cost? What will it do to the other compounds in the primer cup? I prefer to keep things simple. Without having to google or crack any chemistry books... isopropyl alcohol ìs readily available, cheap, and it works. It dries quickly (a good thing), it weakens the surface tension of the water (so the water penetrates the primer compound easily/all the way to the bottom of the cup) and it doesn't adversely effect the primer compound /the ingredients. To be truthful - we may not need it ( the water may soak in by itself).. But any compound in the bottom of the cup that isn't activated will be wasted and it will result in a weak primer.
@@helpmenowmark excellent questions... I have no idea without researching it. I agree with KISS, but am also not opposed to experimenting with stuff just cause... eventually I'd like to take a look at the chemical reactions for some of these compounds. It's interesting that the water is what activates it, related to the auto-ionization maybe?🤷♂️ I'm also curious if the carbon chain on the hydroxyl group matters at all (methanol vs ethanol vs isopropyl alcohol, ect...) if not (within reason) then that could open the door for more improvisation in a pinch. If it does matter, does that mean that we can get better performance using one over the other? Or is there one that should be avoided? I know what you have works, and that's awesome, I'm just a curious nerd who likes to play with stuff and overanalyze everything🤓
