Something about the paint brush along with all of the “happy” and “unhappy” chemicals talk got me wondering if the ghost of Bob Ross was somehow being channeled here.
For those interested, if you crush these ingredients with a mortar and pestle, DO NOT USE ONE MORTAR AND PESTEL FOR ALL INGREDIENTS. To be absolutely safe, acquire multiple mortars and pestles to crush the individual ingredients, and then mix them separately. Be sure to lable your Mortars and your pestels so you dinae accidentally blend the different ingredients together while crushing, as a combination of the wrong ingredients WILL result in some lost eyebrows at best, or a fragmentation bomb at worse. It is also advisable to mix primer compound AWAY from any other explosive or emflammable compounds, as accidents WILL happen. One bit of static zap or one random bolt falling on your tool shelf, or just mixing your chemicals a little too vigorously, and BOOM. Primer compound is a HIGHLY VOLATILE explosive, a little bit made at a time will go a long way. DO NOT MIX UP AND KEEP A 5 GALLON BUCKET OF READY PRIMER COMPOUND ‘FOR LATER USE”.. Dinae even mix up a Pound of the stuff to make primers in one sitting. Keep your batches SMALL. The last thing you want is to try making a pound of primer compound in one sitting, and be remembered as ‘the bloke who vaporized himself and blew up his garage.” by your neighbors and remaining relatives… Keep all that in mind, and you can enjoy making thousands of primers for years to come. Happy reloading, and keep your fingers attached.
I like ball mills in place of mortar pestals. I used separate jars and non ferrous balls. I still use a brass powder measure for reloading black powder cartridge rounds. I always wore a static ESD bracelet when working on fireworks. Remember that primer compound is insanely sensitive so no mondo cans of the stuff laying about. Mix only what you need. No More
You really need to make a 100 capacity plate set for charging with powder, packing and seating the anvils. You can charge and seat anvils in 100 primers in 3 - 5 minutes safely and uniformly. It's a scaled down factory method and it works perfectly.
I have reloaded a few primers, going through test stages. for the paper disks tolit paper, but I just pulled anvils out of 100 small rifle primers and CAREFULLY took a big sewing needle scraping out primers. only one went off . will load back in small pistol primers. testing Walmart cap gun, the kind that are a eight shot plastic ring . it is very unforgiving but easy to get propellant out. also iam testing the 22 cal loads for shooting nails into concrete such as sold at Lowe’s and Home Depot .they are a real pain . I use nail sets , smallest first to open crimped shells, then every size till I can take needle nose pliers and break peace’s off to where I can properly scrape propellant out of bottom and sides. it takes forever but decide after testing what works best for you and have a blast. Nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well . if you have a adjustable lighted magnifying desk model that folds, that’s awesome because my older eyes plays tricks on me and it’s a big help.
If you are just breaking up clumps, folding it in a sheet of paper and rolling over it with a small pill bottle works good, and make sure everything is powdered finely before mixing anything. The final mixing can be done in a small pill bottle as well, just tape it to the end of a broom stick. And he needs to fire them in this video!
(For anyone that wants to copy and paste the ingredients). 9gr Antimony sulfide 3gr Sulfur 4gr Very Fine Ground Glass 0.2gr sodium Bicarb 0.2gr Aluminum powder 17gr Potassium Chlorate (mixed extra carefully). then the liquid is 7 parts acetone, 1 part shellac. I'm not certain what shellac is though. I believe it's a natural chemical from an insect that is used in clear coat and nail polish. Also, make sure you watch the video to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. This isn't directions. It's just the ingredients.
@@ommsterlitz1805 Do you know what's in commercial primers? Many have lead and mercury. I was told that modern one's didn't, but when I tested some myself (including percussion caps), they all either had mercury or lead. I didn't have any clean or "green" ammo to test though.
The 'shellac' is most likely cellulose laquer - it has the same chemical composition as single base smokeless powder, the major difference lies in the amount of solvent used in the end product, hence it burns very well.
@@deucedeuce1572 Modern non-corrosive primers are lead styphonate unless they are marked lead free. Mercury fulminate are corrosive primers commonly used outside of the US (or used to be pretty common)
@@tomhubbard353 Is mercury fulminate corrosive? I've done research on it before, but honestly can't remember. I believe percussion caps (both old and new) contain mercury fulminate, but they could also be leas styphnate. Some people say nitrocellulose was used also, but I don't think I've ever been able to confirm that. I have confirmed though that it is impact sensitive. I just don't think it's sensitive enough or hot enough (or slow enough) to be used as a percussion cap though. (and definitely not a primer being ignited with a firing pin).
@Andrew Michaels I have a really good safety consideration if you don't mind my chime. When you are mixing this stuff, use acetone especially while you are pressing it all in. The acetone will dry rather quickly, and it will not have any negative effects on your primers.
That is a massive mix of those chemicals. I've seen what smaller amounts do. I was on the edge of my seat, watching, and when your phone went off, I jumped out of my skin.😂 It was a good unintended jump scare.
Seems to me that using a mortar and pestle on each ingredient separately before mixing would alleviate that chopping and mashing and probably deliver a finer and more homogeneous mixture.
good luck fnding that third compound, hell good luck just finding plain ol' black powder. I haven't seen (retail price, not bunker price) percussion caps in over 2 years. thinking i might try to revolutionize the industry before the EMP locks down most all commercial commodities
@@ColMason Glad the percussion cap and black powder prices have come down a lot in the last couple months. Have found some for fair(ish) prices recently.
SEPARATELY MOST DEFINITELY, I know of a 3 1/2 fingered friend whom would definitely advise against mixing together, He attempted once just once with prime all large batch, flames got 1 finger, infection set in hospital had to remove part of another. Yes I am evil I laughed my ass off. He even admits thinking back he realizes it was dumb, stupid to try a pressure sensitive friction sensitive material mix in a mortar and pestle not the rational, sane approach.
Those large magnifier lights that clamp on your desk are a godsend! I used a florescent one for detailed electronics work/mods. The newer ones are led's but go for the largest lens and whitest light you can. Their usually around $20 - 30.00 and well worth it even for photagraphy. And detail work really. My eyes have gone downhill over the years and the first thing you need even before glasses is GOOD lighting. Lol
Nice recipe and process. But guys, you don’t compress the compound inside the caps in the same table where the rest of the compound is. Actually no hard instrument should cross above the ready compound batch. Powdered glass makes this stuff really unstable, and its not safe to even have a chance to drop something over it.
@@deucedeuce1572 not sure, but the bullet going off might no be the major problem. The big deal is to drop any hard instrument over the primer compound. This stuff is really sensitive, and the pile could go off just by dropping your watch/cellphone/screwdriver over it, even if not being inside a primer case.
I agree, I would definitely get some more space between my bulk compound and the work area BUTTT I believe when the acetone wets the mixture is severely desensitizes it making it considerably safer. As I understand it and have watched documentaries on the subject, commercial lead styphonate primers are "charged" with a slurry that is acetone and LS. They squeegee the cups full in a "punched plate" of a 100 at a time I believe, then paper and anvil added while wet.
Rimfire priming compound will work just fine. You will need the anvils back in your primers, unless you're reloading Berdan-primed cases, which have the anvils built into the cases.
Did you make the attachment for your press that your using to push the anvil into the cup? If so could you make a video on how you made it or instructions, or where you got it?
The commercial producer I saw made trays of 1,000. It was plastic with shallow holes the size of the cups. A small vacuum pump held them in, and a small wand would suck up the backward cups. Then, he opened a plastic tub and used a plastic putty knife to smear the compound into them evenly. A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled. Slid into place, and the paper between pulled out. Rolled and let dry.
Can you elaborate on, “ A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled” I don’t understand this part. Also, do you have any diagram or more information regarding the commercial producer?
@George Echeverri the producer was Federal I believe. The plate for the anvils was very thin. Only the thickness of one anvil. A quantity was poured over it and wiped until one was in every hole.
What are the last things you put in. Sounded like "anvils " what are they and where do you get them ? Why are they necessary? Thanks. New to blabk powder an learning as much as i can.
...last year I bought a large quantity of those Pop Its...kids noisemakers from the days of my yout' wonder if they could be used as a basic porosity compound???
What is the purpose of the powdered glass? Is it so there's more hard pieces to rub against the actual compound within the powder? Also would fumed silica work?
Could the unhappy powder be mixed in a slurry of say pure alcohol (say everclear) and then put in as a putty/honey consistency before putting in the anvil (this way it's a wet compound and the alcohol would evaporate out
Considering how I got a 5 minute Tinnitus after someone shot an empty, primed cartridge next to me, you might want to not have the big ass pile of powder next to where you're working on priming, pushing the anvils,... And: grounding against static electricity could also save your fingers. But: very interesting. I don't reload or plan on doing anything like that, but still: very interesting
Weird how that one that went off was *that* silent. Are these DIY primers that much weaker than factory primers? Some .22 indoor rounds only use the rimfire primer without powder to get the bullet to deform into the rifling and go all through the barrel fast enough for target shooting, and I already mentioned my ears ringing from a primed empty case without powder or bullet being fired. These seem *WAAAY* less energetic
While I was quite the shooter in my youth, it was always with factory made, modern primers. I never had a hobby cannon, etc. I know that modern primers have an anvil as part of their design, but why do you need them here? Won't the paper disk along with shellac hold them together? And if I may ask, what is the difference between a friction primer and a regular primer that's used in a modern gun? Yours look the same. (Though I am sure modern primers don't contain glass.) I assume what happens with this friction primer is the ground glass becomes hot due to friction when the primer is "struck" and the heat sets off the unstable "stuff" in the mixture? Lastly, I assume all the chemicals can be purchased at a chemical supply house? By the way, shellac is used to treat the areas of wood where the grain changes direction. You apply the shellac and it prevents that area from absorbing as much stain. If you don't used shellac, the downward curve of your stock will be noticeably darker after applying the stain. Learned that the hard way when I sanded down the stock of my Ruger 10/22 to treat some deep nicks and lighten the stocks tone a few shades. I always thought the stock a bit too dark for my taste. Live and learn- I was no less proud of my first "gunsmithing" job, lol. I actually used that little carbine to compete against bolt action target rifles. While they of course beat me, it was not by much. They were shocked at how accurate that rifle was. The instructor was really impressed and asked me what my technique was. Being a kid, I had no technique, lol. I just knew that the Ruger 10/22 was a great gun. He said that if I put target sights on it, I could likely be as good or better than the bolt action 22s I competed against- pretty good for a carbine! Anyway, thanks so much for this! I had no idea you could make your own primers- friction or otherwise.
no. Potassium chlorate is poisones. you mean KCl chlorate is KClO3. you can it make from kcl with an graphit anode + and nickl or iron kathode - with 5 volts and place both elektrode very close to gether under one inch.
I mean, you don't need to clean between shots, or speed 100mph home to clean the firearm before it falls apart, but yes, the salts (sulphur and potassium chlorate) form sulphuric and hydrochloric acids when exposed to water, which the fouling in the bore/surfaces exposed to combustion gasses, will absorb out of the air. The gun won't rust apart on you in a couple days, but the corrosion damage is cumulative, so just make sure to clean it after every shooting session. Most priming made prior to the 1970's was made with compounds similar to this, and most of those arms are just fine so long as they were maintained. That's why the AR10 and Ar15 gas tubes are stainless and the gas system on the Kalashnikov pattern rifles is easily removed for cleaning, lessons learned from earlier self-loading military rifles (gas systems aren't generally disassembled in the field)
If you ever work with very fine aluminum powder, you have to be careful. It can be a very dangerous thing to work with if you don't know the dangers and how to avoid them. I'd even say it's the most dangerous of ingredients in this video. In any case, definitely do some research on the safety/dangers of aluminum powder and the other ingredients (either alone or mixed)... and don't work with them until you have learned and understand them. (I only learned after doing stupid/ignorant/dangerous things and am lucky that I was never hurt).
Yep. Ask the Germans about using aluminum powder in their doping mixture they painted on the Hindenburg to make it shine...........one reason it burned so quickly.
@@seawolfinternational5481 Yeah, aluminum powder is also part of many explosive mixtures. Things like KNO3 and many other chemicals mixed with aluminum powder become explosive... and there are also many thermite (and thermate) mixes with aluminum.
That is quite a lot of priming compound to make at once. To understand what that stuff can do set the whole amount off with some fuse. It is surprising how much of the paper is destroyed. There is another priming compound recipe that produces a lead double salt that is entirely inactive until a small drop of water is placed in each completed primer - there is no handling of active explosive. It is also non corrosive. The preparation is much more complex than this simple mixture. Not impossible though, even without chemistry training.
@@deucedeuce1572 I believe the primer mix is eph 20 - lots and lots of stuff on Aardvark reloading - here's a video on the hardest part of making it (not too hard though) -ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YHE9KsImws4.html - This isn't the best video to start but I happened to find it - Aardvark reloading and eph 20 is enough to find everything though. Also here is a primer composition text that you will like. www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html Here is a primer course pdf - aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202019-06-28.pdf I think you will really like this one.
PS after you mix the composition you assemble the primers dry. The composition is not explosive at this point because the last chemical reaction does not occur until a tiny drop of water and isopropyl alcohol is added to the primer, which is then set aside to dry and then you are good - when dry you have an effective non corrosive primer.
Someone has been watching to much of Mr. Rodgers Neighborhood and Bob Ross. Would it be safer to add the ground glass last? Its the abrasive used to trigger the reaction.
The viscosity and final hardness may affect the final efficientcy of ignition. Shellac is a waxy product made from insects, beetles I believe or their shells. A pine resine if mixed thin enough might work. Both are cut/thinned by acetone/alcohol/turpentine, and have a unique characteristic of stopping stain bleed through (like wall stains from mold, tannins, dyes, chalk etc.) they are a good base sealer around primer and bullet to case joint for waterproofing ammo. Although I have used paint pens for that purpose with some success.
Unless you're reloading Berdan primers and cases, nothing. Boxer primers must have the anvil. Berdan primed cases (usually, steel) have the anvil inside the primer pocket. They also require some specialized tools to deprime such as a hydraulic deprimer.
@@rifleshooter2 Do you know if it makes a big difference using a finer grain powder ? Aardvark recipe shows 60-100 mesh that converts to 150-250 microns . Smaller the grains the faster the or hotter burn rate ?
@@kmackiss 0.2gr aluminum flake is not for burn rate. Rather to make hot incandescent particles to ignite spherical powders reliably. Check aardvarkreloading.com
@@petruse8893 lead azide can ve made from stibnite, nitric acid, and sodium azide. perhaps one shouldnt assume others exp or knowledge of complete strangers? go check out the sciencemadness website and forums. lots of educational information there on organic chemistry.
It seems to me ,that you have no idea what lead azide is and stibnite as well.The first contains lead and nitrogen in a very unusual compoundwhich is salt of lead and HN3 acid ,the second is a sulfide, which is also salt of antimony and H2S.Unless you are deep into alchemy and know the magic formula for transmutations,making lead out of antimony is not possible,more so turning H2S into HN3 is a sorcery on a cosmic scale
i came back here to ask another question about substituting lead picrate for the chlorate and saw your reply...i was confusing stibnite for metallic lead. likely tired when i wrote my reply. anyway in answer to your original question. nitric acid and metallic lead to obtain lead nitrate, then its a simple substitution reaction with water solutions of lead nitrate and sodium azide. lead azide will precipitate out. likely leaving behind a contaminated sodium nitrate solution. the hard part of course is obtaining the sodium azide. there are a couple sources like early airbags or synthesizing it from hydrazine sulfide, that said its all pretty toxic synthesis. i found the lead picrate route to be fairly simple enough starting with ASA to picric acid then lead nitrate to lead picrate ..fairly easy relatively safe with proper PPE. so anyway have a nice day and again, you assume much. but do you have anything useful to contribute like an informative answer to substitution of corrosive chlorates with lead picrate?
@@rifleshooter2 Good to know. Tried making a mix a couple years ago that i got on youtube and it was way too sensitive for primers (even though it was meant for primers). I didn't trust it though. Did some drop tests and a few of them went off just from dropping them. (Don't wanna think what would happen if one went off while loaded in a magazine. It would likely set off a chain reaction and set them all off the first time the gun was fired).
90%rubbing alc. What I was told. Makes it a bit less touchy and easier to put back in primer cap. Let dry 24 hrs and you have primers. But I missed half the ingredients and how much of each because my internet sucks..lol
I done bought this and made no telling how many rounds the kit includes the hardening agent now. In my opinion it's not worth having. Takes me 2 hours to fork out about 50 rounds I could of bought for 10 bucks. By time I make 500 rounds I'll be dead.
They come from the once fired brass after you de-prime them for reloading...take them and pop the anvil out..clean them however you want (tumber, ultrasonic cleaner) then follow the directions to reload the primers for reloading the ammo
@@rifleshooter2 if u take a matchbox with matches. you can utilize those components to make primer compound. chemically very similar to this eccept the initiation is diffrent i think..
