In this video I go through the steps on how to replace the rear speakers on a 2013 Honda Accord. I upgraded my speakers from 6 1/2" to 6x9 in this video.
Any of you watching this and have a 2009-2012 none of this is needed!!! All u have to do is go to each of the speaker grills and use a small flat head screwdriver and pop the off the corner closes to the door!!! Saves you all this work!!!! Don’t know about the 2013 but I have a feeling it’s the same!!!
I had my laptop in my garage while I followed this process step by step. I had disassembly done in less than 45 minutes and I strategically placed the pieces on my garage floor while my Accord was in the driveway. Thank you VERY MUCH for such a thorough video and narration. I was able to accomplish this with zero errors. FIVE STARTS start to finish on this video. I had reassembly done in yet another short period of time [ with no remaining parts :) ] and this was extremely helpful. Let it be known that I also purchased sound deadener for the entire rear deck and the 6-1/2" adapter brackets and wire harnesses for a no hassle plug and play installation for the rear deck and front door kick panels. This also made this installation a breeze. Note: I found a youtube video for speaker replacement in the front door kicks that was helpful. This video was/is absolutely fantastic...thank you, thank you, thank you......Doug
Great tip for adding weatherstripping to the speakers. You missed a golden opportunity to add some sound deadening to the deck. So many steps to get to it I figured you'd add something while you were in there.
I have a 2017 EX-L V6 Honda Accord with the "premium" 7 speaker (7 including "subwoofer" if you want to call it that lol..) sound system. I really appreciate the video. It took me about 30 minutes to remove everything including the back seat backrest and the bench. I think the only difference was that my back seat backrest was a 60/40 split, and there were 5 total screws to remove that. Everything else was basically the same as in the video. The subwoofer had 4 screws to remove. Each back speaker had 1 screw and a.. hook/slot you just pull it out of to remove. The back deck lid (large plastic piece) was a bit annoying to remove, but make sure you unhook the little pigtail over on the (driver's side) at the top of the seat belt, and just get your hands back there far and keep pushing up on a large surface area and eventually everything will pop loose and you can wiggle it out. Hope that helps someone.
bit more info: even the premium system isn't that great. If you always have the windows up and just commute, they're ok. If you like decent bass, you'll probably want to add at least a subwoofer. Doesn't rly get loud enough with the windows down without the system lowering the bass and the speakers get into some distortion (around volume 25+)... I'm adding a full system and using a JL Audio FIX 86 to keep the stock stereo and tech functionality. Run that to my (re-using from old truck) Kenwood Excelon XR-5S then out to the speakers and I'm putting a single 10" sub box in trunk (leaving the hole open from where I took out the "premium" 8" subwoofer...
Thank you for posting this and for explaining in detail how to remove each part. I have an Accord Sport 9th Gen and I feel more confident after watching your video. 👍
I'd agree that there is no need to remove the back seats or the seat cushion because the side bolsters can be removed without touching the rear seats. I have to say that Honda had gone cheaper on this 9th Gen Accord on a couple things: they replace the 6x9" speakers on the 7th Gen with the smaller 6.5" drivers on the rear deck and they remove the access panels to the speakers from the top of rear deck. It makes the job of replacing the rear deck speakers a lot more involved than it has to be. In my 7th Gen, all I have to do is pop off the speaker top covers from the rear deck, take out the 4 screws and changing out the speakers! No need to muck with the entire rear deck trim or rear deck metal on my car. I'd not cut the rear deck metal out to put the larger speakers in like this, it compromises the rear deck strength and may cause the car to rattle, not counting the fact that he cut into the metal but never bother to apply some touch up paint to prevent rusting. If I want more bass from the speakers, I'd rather install a powered sub in the trunk in between the rear speakers rather than relying on the wimpy OEM radio amplifier to add bass to the new speakers. I think the best way to upgrade this generation Honda Accord is really upgrading the front and rear speakers with better 6.5" speakers and add a small 8" powered sub in the trunk. There is nothing that will beat a powered sub in pumping out bass in addition to these speakers. Plus, you kept the car in factory shape, just remove the powered sub so when you sell the car, it has better value than some hack job like this. Last but not least, don't destroy the OEM speakers just for the lousy connectors, you can buy the speaker adapters for less than $8 a pair. You can put the OEM speakers back and save the better speakers for another car when you sell the car.
Great video, I used this as a reference to remove the deck on my 2017 Accord touring. No surprise's pretty much same exact steps. Now I have a rattle in the plastic piece against the back window and I might have to do it again this is about 2 years later. Waiting for better weather.
+Will Williams +Will Williams Pull up on the corners of the bottom seat to gain access to the 2 bolts holding the side cushion pieces in place. There's one bolt on either side. Pull up on those pieces to get them out the way. Fold down the back seat, there's no need to remove it. Now skip to 3:16 & follow from there. I should just make a vid. I don't want people goin thru unnecessary steps.
Just a side note here, but don't all speaker drivers (except perhaps for large subwoofers) have rather delicate cones and voice coils, especially when you poke them with metal tools? Some of the very finest are in fact made of paper, and even the ones that are reinforced with woven fibers and wouldn't tear as easily would still readily deform under finger pressure. They're designed to be stiff for their weight, but they have to be incredibly light in order to have good transient response, detail, low stored energy, low distortion, and more generally, good audio quality. The stock Accord speaker drivers are undoubtedly utter crap, but I bet far superior ones wouldn't stand up to such abuse, either--they have superior motor designs and material properties for sound, but their cones and voice coils are still very delicate in order to keep efficiency reasonable.
I recommend remove whole back seat as you need space to cut using jigsaw. More space makes thing easier. Yea if you are just replacing with same size speaker then not much space is needed to work. For cutting you need more and comfortable space to work so I think he did right
Your aware that the seat does not have to come out at all you can lift the seat bottom and get the bolts to the side bolsters it's much easier then removing the whole rear seat. I work for a dealer and have had to remove the rear deck panel to get window tint out. I can get one out in 5 min now.
Another dude I saw (JoeTechProjects) put new speakers in the back and his speaker grills popped right off (separate from the rear deck). I figured that was easy enough and ordered speakers. Just found out mine don't pop off and holy mother of god that's a lot of work. Guess I'll have to save this for a weekend.
Good Day Michael, Thanks for all the supportive videos; is it possible to list any / all equipment used in videos.. (i.e.. either PN# or Model#; such those crow bar / clap release tools), Also any suggestions or video for completing a install of OEM back-up Sensors for 2013 Honda Accord EX? Again love the support and your collection of Craftsman tools. God Bless
So in other words hire someone to do this. Got it and thank you. Appreciate the video for real but this looks like a very easy project right on screw up.
Have a 13 accord sport we all know how bad the rattle is from a sub. Dealt with it for 3 years . Got the rear deck removed and put a slab of dynamat on the metal underneath the rear deck and there is no more rattling . You prob don’t even need the dynamat just removing the rear deck alone will get rid of the annoying rattle.
Don't need to remove the seat.... don't make this more complicated than it is. You can just lift up the side of the bottom seat cushion with one hand and use the other hand to unbolt that side trim panel.
Moral of the story... most Accords are NOT audiophile friendly, lol. I have an 08 and am dealing with a lot of these issues currently. The plug to run the power cable through the firewall isn't over near the gas pedal (as in most vehicles) it's essentially behind the radio... making it a pain in the ass to access from inside of the vehicle OR under the hood. I got it done but it was annoying to say the least. Now I've got to get a line level converter attached to the wires on one of the rear speakers and I was thinking that taking the speaker out would be the easiest way, but apparently some other ways might be easier if you aren't replacing the speaker (self found ways).
I have an older 97' Accord and the 6.5s are in a plate, in a 6x9 hole. Too bad Handa stopped doing it like that. An aftermarket plate to hold a 6x9 is available to make installation a breeze.
Awesome video brother!! Thanks a lot for the upload. Just a quick question, Did you added the amp too or you are just running them on the factory head unit? If so, how's the sound? Is factory head unit really supplying 40w each speaker? your answer will be really appreciated
Sheroon Mazhar I did not add a amplifier because it would interfere with noise cancelling system. The headunit only supplies about 8 watts nominally per channel, so it doesn't push much.
hey mike i did mine, but i didn't have to remove the whole seats part to get to the speakers i just had to remove the speakers grills on mine they have clips so its really easy and i have a honda accord 2013 i don't Know if your car is different but i didn't have to do all that process to get to the speakers
saul morales I went through the full process just to show how to take it all apart. I also wanted to clean under the seat since I have kids who drop crumbs and such. Thanks for the info.
Great how to ! Will save me some time figuring things out... :-).Only difference I have will be mine is a 2014 sport (same install) and I will be installing two 8" sundown subs with an up firing box port through the factory sub hole for the EX. I will buy a rear parcel tray for the EX and swap them out after installing the new subs and 6x9s. Thanks again Mike ! p.s. others can look online on drive accord. net and other places for the ANC defeat. Absolutely needed for a sub. I am also running a JBL MS-8 DSP unit to get imaging correct in the car :-)
What is the purpose of the 10 mm bolt holding the seat down? I don't see how it is connected to the bottom part of the seat? Is it possible to just pull the release clip to take off the bottom half?
Hello just wondering did you have to disconnect the ANC after installing the aftermarket speakers I'm having a problem with feedback on interior speakers
Sip Michael how many clips are on the rear top cover? I had some 6.5 installed and I don't think the audio guy put the clips back in the holes? It rattles a lot sounds like crap! Thanks man
I have a 2012 do I have to do the same thing to replace rear speakers? In my 07 Accord I just popped the Caps off without removing much plastic didn't have to move the seats at all or remove the hole plastic console
Very helpful video for more than just audio, thank you. My only question, six years after the fact, where can I find that right angle tool? Nothing I see online now seems as compact, is yours a Ridgid?
on the factory deck speaker grill cover did u cut it out or punch holes threw it mine was only vented for the 6.5 so it covers the rest of the 6x9 and rubs the hell out of it
I wonder if it's easier to cut out the speaker section of the plastic rear deck and cover the hole with a slightly larger grill later. That's a LOT of work to replace two speakers. Honda could have just used removable speaker grills for a little more money but every penny counts.
i'm curious so how does i sound ? i'm under the impression the rear outlets are not full range, i upgraded my rear speakers, no more bass than factory speakers, all the bass seam to be in front doors
Way to go brother, Pretty nice video. THx! Question, I imagine the 2014 is quite similar? Also, is it absolutely necessary to remove the bottom part of the back seat? It would seem that may be an extra unessential step. Thoughts?
Eric Sill You would think so, but it all has to come out to get all of the bolts needed. It really wouldn't save much time by skipping anyway, it goes pretty quickly.
Hey I have a 2017 Accord LX Sedan and I don't have the front Tweeters, or rear speakers or Stock Sub, I only gave the two on the front door panel, and two on the rear door panel. If I plan on installing the front door panel tweeters, and rear speakers, are the clips already in place? And I would just have to order speakers and adapter harness? And it would be an easy plug and play? If not, do you have a how to video?
Using this video to uninstall the 3rd brake light since I'm adding the lifted spoiler that has its own light and will be connecting to 3rd brake light power 👋🏻 Inspired me to make a video myself Update: made the videos 😎👍
I sent you a PM on DA, but you haven't logged on in a few months. Was there a significant change in low end response after installing the 6x9's? I will have to buy speakers since I don't have any on hand so I don't want to spend the money if it's not worth the mod. I was pleased with the 6x9's in my 7th gen and I'm hoping for a similar sound. Thanks Mike!
nico celulares I prefer the 6x9's because they can hit lower frequencies. For ease of installation the 6.5 are the easier choice. The bass response will be punchier with the 6.5 versus smoother with 6x9's.
Nice and cool presentation there!! Where did you buy your plastic kit panel removal? And just want to ask you also what size are the stock front and rear speaker of our accord sport? After watching this video can't wait to change mine too....
Hey man I have a question, just bought a 2016 civic 10th gen with 160W system. Sound quality is horrible, I was wondering if I just change the speakers can I have better sound or I need more upgrade? BTW, there are so many rattles coming from back of the car and didnt know how to remove the parts (looks pretty same with my civic), thanks to this video I can investigate better
Speakers are a good place to start, just don't get anything that is too power hungry since you'll be using the stock head unit. The head units on newer Honda's are tied into a lot of the vehicles functionality so I would try not to have to replace it.
Jesus Christ brother what a pain to change the oem crappy speakers. Is it worth the effort without amp? How noticeable would you say this upgrade was? Have you changed the door ones too? Thank you so much for the video... A thought: wouldn't be easier to cut out the speaker part of the deck and re silicone that ? you da man!
I take it you didnt amplify the speakers, what make/model 6x9s did you use? I have a base model 14 accord, i wouod be happy with 10% better quality and volume sound, i use this car for as a cab, doesnt make sense for me to loose trunk space, or invest too much $ since i will not keep this car long term!
Sleepy731 The speakers I installed were JBL GT series (entry level). I did not amplify them since it would disable the noise cancelling system in the car. The difference is mainly in frequency response, loudness is about the same.
Wow. You installed a cheap 6x9 speaker in the REAR part of the car. A cheap speaker which you damaged right at the moment you've intalled. But. Instead of installing another speaker and NOT damaging it you've 'fixed' it. Congrats. What a mess... By the way the disassembly/assembly part was useful.
