The sensor bracket is for the self leveling lights, I have a CL7 Euro R and had to remove the bracket of the oem strut and put it on the Tein strut. I have Xenons on the JDM CL7 so it needed the bracket. Hope this helps!!
The bracket doesn't go all the way down into the suspension fork so the fork clamping screw does not tighten the correct area. To get the bracket to go right down into the fork, the opening of the fork needs widening. Even if you managed to get it down into the fork, the Tein leg diameter (part that goes through the bracket) is smaller than the inner diameter of the bracket so there will be movement issues.
I like the joke at the beginning of the video, spilling over the entire box. Granted, that was probably an empty box of empty cardboards. If the box had the real coilovers in it, it'd be so heavy, and EXTREMELY difficult to lift/hold the box like that and walk like that. 🤣 Some thoughts/tips for others looking into coilover install: - Do NOT change the setting on the spring perch and its corresponding lock washer/nut. Tein is very specific about this. (Guy in video almost went to touch/change this.) Change only the lower mount adjustment for setting ride height. While the Tein manual shows dimensions A/B/C/D that you're suppose to check before installing, but in reality Tein had measured & set those dimensions when they left the factory. So unless someone messed with your coilovers, those settings should be ready-to-install. - Set the damping to the mid-way 8 clicks immediately out of the box. (Instead of adjusting them after install.) On some vehicles, the rear coilovers, it's nearly impossible to reach the adjustment knob after install; totally covered up. (nuts and damper knob are on separate sides of the chassis/frame). Also, do not just start turning/playing with the damping adjustment right out of the box. The manual says: it is possible you can continuously turn counter-clockwise and damage the adjustment knob. You're suppose to turn clockwise until it reaches dead-stop (stiffest setting) and then back-wards from there to the desired # of clicks. - Loosen all your control arm bushing bolts/nuts during install. At end of install, crank the hub to "approximate ride height", and then tighten the bushing bolts/nuts again. This way the bushing is "neutral" at the new ride height. Otherwise, the bushing will be constantly under strain, and the rubber will be ruined very quickly. Might want to spray some WD40 on the rubber bushings when bolts/nuts are loosened; this both helps recondition the bushing rubber, as well as help bushing "slide" into the new neutral position. - After install, check for tire rub. Towards end of video "this smells like burnt [something something]"... Likely had tire rub, especially in the compression stroke. - Undo end-links when installing coilover, so you're not fighting the two sides of suspension. Check end-links and sway bar movement for rubbing/impact in the new/lower ride height. You should have a new set of adjustable end-links ready-to-go; if you end up not needing them, can always return them unopened. (vs having your vehicle stranded mid-install for several days, waiting for new end-links to arrive) - Might want to mark on all nuts/rings of the coilover with oil-paint/marker after you are satisfied with the ride height. This way if any of them loosen later, you can see it. - Remember to consider corner-balancing, and professional alignment. Whether you do it or not is of course your choice. Just: make the choice, instead of "I didn't know to consider that". 😅 - You might need to spray some WD40 on places that are suppose to slide past each other. For example in the pillow ball itself. My front springs was occasionally making this "boing" sound, like the spring had bind up and then release. What I realized later: when you steer, the entire spring column rotates with your steering. So "somewhere" things are suppose to slide, but wasn't sliding smoothly. I sprayed WD40 in a bunch of areas, and the problem went away.
Boys that was a great video. Glad y'all enjoyed your nasho run. Should come up the cenny coast sometime for a collab. Bring on the trackday shenanigans, will be subscribed for more content 🤘💚
@@2braincells I have the flex z installed on my all new honda city in malaysia. eventho am using the unit for gk/fit/gm6. the ride comfort is definitely better than the stock. set level 10 for front and 12 at the rear
I have the Flex Z on a Lancer GTS. Yes it's comfortable enough for street. Noticeably less body roll and less nose-dive (braking). Ride does feel bumpier than stock suspension, but not to the point of being uncomfortable.
Not sure that's a "choice". Look up Tein's website for product offering on your vehicle. The Flex Z for mine, uses pillow ball for front with (included) camber plate; there wasn't a "choice" for rubber mount. I believe the rear was rubber mount, but can't remember the detail. Tein website, for the specific product/model, will tell you what it has.
