This is an example of an excellent video; no babbling, no long introductions, no going off on tangents, no faces in the video, no lingering on non related stuff, good quick editing , correct information, efficient use of time. This is how all how to videos should be.
Nice! To tension the belt by the book after timing is set you need to turn the crank until the LH cam mark is off by 3 teeth. This is where the belt is properly tensioned. You then tighten the tensioner bolt. Next turn the cranck counterclockwise till your back to tdc and all your marks line up. Now you can tighten the tensioner arm bolt to hold timing while you do the balancer. You will have to loosen the tensioner bolt again anyway to to do the balance shaft belt because both pulleys share 1 stud. Doing this method assures there is no slack in the belt. If the belt has slack between the cam and crank that means the tensioner is experiencing an extreme amount of tension on the opposite side. This will cause premature failure of the bearing that is built into the tensioner.
@@jsstrawder i stopped the video when i got to the belt tensioning part, glad to see someone mentioned the correct way to do the job. also happy to see the content creator was receptive.
who’s ever car this is, very lucky to have some one this knowledgeable and cares this much to do the job the right way not the white way the first time!! great job man, i wish you were my mechanic
I have been watching this video for almost 2 years now and it has got me through alot! The way it is explained is just right for me and i have shared this video more times than i can tell. Thank you so much!😊
Great video, great photography and great tips/professional techniques demonstrated. I've done this job before, and it is a pain to say the least. This is a great resource for anyone attempting to take on this procedure. Getting these details right will ensure your success. This is not a quick job, so allow plenty of time and replace all the wear parts, bearings, tensioners, water pump, crank, cam and valve cover seals. You don't want to do this job twice, so don't go cheap on quality parts and take your time ensuring all alignment marks are in the correct position and proper tension is applied to the belts, as he demonstrates. Thank you for making this video, very good work!!!
Excellent! As a recovering mechanic who recently bought a 2001 Accord it's nice to see someone who pays attention to CLEAN and detail. Very well done and a wonderful video too. Kudos for the high mass impact socket for crankshaft bolt removal too!
Thanks for your comment! The impact driver along with some of my other electric ratchet tools definitely makes the job go faster and easier! Thanks for your support and please subscribe for notifications of new videos.
What an excellent job. The video close up with excellent. And I have to say what an extremely lucky customer to have a mechanic to do such a good job very impressed. I just purchased a Honda with a bad water pump I will most definitely be watching this video more than once
This is probably one of the most straightforward, in-depth, and detailed tutorials I’ve seen on the subject. And you did it all without taking an hour and a half on the video. Lol! Thank you for your hard work.
Perfect video for this. I followed along nearly exactly and finished up the job along with a new radiator and hoses while the cooling system was drained.
@@hardlymovingpro I have a big leak. ( add 2 quarters of engine oil and when I turn on the engine it empty inmmediately). Flow come out from bottom of engine timing belt cover. Can be a seal?
An odd thing happened during our test start. I think our test start was same as yours. Accessory belts off, valve cover resting on head, not bolted down. Harmonic balancer installed, engine covers off. Timing marks all hopefully ready to go. Engine fired right up and RPM soared upwards. I shut off right away. Tried again and same thing. RPM soared up. Since it seemed to run fine, everything was reinstalled. Engine started and ran normally. We did have the alternator off the engine. I don't know why the engine did what it did. Great video, thank you very much. It really helped. I think the worst part of the whole thing was dealing with a splash cover with ears chewed off.
When you start the car with the alternator off, the car is running off the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the car will run for around 30 minutes without the alternator.
Best description of Timing Belt, Water pump and Seals i've seen for this car, Out of 10 various example repair views, You are by far the best, No jokes, Straight forward, Extremely informative and accurate, In other words, Great job imo! Thank you so much, Was going to drop the car off this evening for to be repaired, Not any more, It's my job now,) Thanks again!
Gotta get the same thing done to my 93 Accord EX. Bought it from a guy supposedly replaced the head gasket but paid no attention to this area of the motor smh.. thankfully I have a buddy of mine willing to help out who is experienced since he has previously owned some Civics
Great camera work. Just finished same setup on sunday on 1995 honda odyssey with 300,000 miles . Debating on replacing the idlers, tensilners and aisin water pump. New dayco timing belt the rest was replaced at 138,000 miles back. Plan on keeping the van no more than 6 months to a year. Had bent valves do to snapped timing belt on hwy. Took for a 3 mile test run all seems good
Thanks. Best video I've seen on how to replace timing belt and seals on these Honda engines. Great quality videos. Well lit. Well edited and captioned. Great work. This will make my job much easier.
@@hardlymovingpro it was still a great video with still shots that looked professional grade. That was a really nice video. Must be a good camera or good experienced cameramen
@@erahelp Thanks but he's does all my editing too. This particular video was very difficult for him to produce. All the camera work was done using a LG smart phone. The digital cameras are too big and cumbersome to get into tight spaces.
Sir best video thus far I've watched a few and yours is 1st place no yackidy yack I've needed to put new seals and you demonstrated how easy job can be. Then running motor verifying belt tension perfect thanks
The Best video on the internet to do this job!!! You’re a professional by every standard. You’ve explained everything and the video is right on. Most videos are not lite well and you can’t figure out what’s going on. Your tutorial is #1.
Great video. Filming is perfect and so clear. Now I know why it costs so much for a mechanic to do this. I could watch this a hundred times, but my old brain could not remember all the technical details involved. Not to mention , there is a lot less room to work on a 2.3 liter in a Honda Odyssey than there is in an Accord. But this is the only video for a 2.3 liter. Great work. I'm done. No way I can do this. Tine to search for a really great Honda tech.
Video helped so much, some reason crank sprocket won’t go back on. Hopefully grease helps tomorrow, slid off so easily it’s hard to believe it won’t budge now
@@hardlymovingpro the lube did not help, nothing was damaged during the process. Even went back on no problem as a test earlier but now as I’m wrapping up the job the crank sprocket will just not slide on, I don’t understand why
Thank you so much sir for taking your time and helps us out . I appreciate it very much. God bless you b other and continue given you knowledge. So you can help others. God bless America
You used a "timing mark" on the rear balancing shaft sprocket. The correct way to do this is to use the access port in the back of the block to align the shaft correctly. There is a 3:1 gear ratio on that rear balancing shaft sprocket. This is from Honda's service manual for this car. May be worth adding this info to the video desc to save someone from unbalancing the block. It's small but noticable at low idle when it vibrates everything.
Had tried to use the access port in the back to lock the balance shaft sprocket from moving to mount the belt but didn't work out for me. The balance shaft sprocket would continue to move.
@@hardlymovingpro Ouch, sounds like a bigger problem then. The two gears behind that sprocket are accessable at least, on occasion the seal behind that gear housing will leak as well. Most kits don't include that seal though unfortunately.
Where can you find the bolt that will thread into the balance shaft through the access port? Is it one of those dig through the bolt bin type of bolts or can you get a specific one somewhere
@@MacroMicro99 The bolt that opens the passage way is just a cover, you can simply take that out and use a screwdriver in there to lock the balance shaft in place.
Ok video with the exception of some important details. The spring for tensioner works fine. When you have the timing and balancer belt in correct position, loosen the tensioner nut and turn the crank to the left 3 teeth then tighten the nut. Also you left out a critical step in aligning your balancer sprocket.
I learned the hard way that with fixed spring tension timing belt systems to start the engine and let the belt seat in. Most of the time the belt loosens up after I start the engine. Next time I'll try your 3 cogs to the left method, start the engine and see if the belt hasn't lost it's tension. Let me know when you have a video on this service ... always looking for a better way to do a job.
@@hardlymovingpro No videos. I do appreciate people that make them. I'm all about DIY. I hardly see any 4 cyl accords with belts come into the shop anymore. They are all chains since 03. Thank goodness for VTC actuators keeping me busy. ;)
There's still late model cars with belts. Honda with their V6's and Volvo with their I5. Just did a TB / WP job a 2004 Volvo I5 2.5L Turbo. The cam sprockets are variable oil pressure controlled. Not too much out there explaining how to replace the cam seals without disturbing the cam's position relative to the crank ... had to figure it out on my own. GM's V6 timing chain(s) barely last over 150K miles before it stretches. Around 10 hrs of work to replace the chain, guides and tensioners. I still prefer doing belts to chains.
Grato amigo por compartilhar teus conhecimentos e experiências, tuas dicas e ensinamentos muito vão me ajudar. Assistindo no Brasil em 23/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
Nice video! I like to run the engine also before I put it back together. On this engine since nothing is really holding that balancer pulley on the crank, I temporarily put the harmonic balancer and bolt on. Don't really want that thing flying off.
I have this same engine,. Thanks for making this video. I have followed other videos you have made with great success. I take pictures and label everything with colored tape.
Thanks for the great video and very informative instructions. I’ll be performing this project on my folks 98 Odyssey pretty soon. Now I’ll have some good knowledge and to purchase the special CS socket. Heard these bolts are are bear to remove with conventional tools.
Hardly Moving Productions Purchased the Leslie CS socket and worked perfectly as advertised even with only 120 psi on my air compressor. Will start the project this weekend, keep you updated
Great video thanks, I just do hope that you tightened the upper tensioner bolt because you didn’t show or say to tighten it, unless it’s supposed to be loose then sorry, just wondering before I try my car
@@hardlymovingpro I mean I get that but won't they be in contact with engine oil anyway? I only really know if dielectric grease being used for preventing corrosion in the ignition system (where the spark plugs connect in), so seeing it used for that was just a little odd to me.
@@CAepicreviews Di-electric (aka plumber's grease) is another name for silicone grease. It has other properties in addition to being an electric insulator. Using a petro based grease may work in pushing in new seals but you may have difficulty getting them out (swelling) when they need to be replaced. In addition, silicone grease remain on contact surfaces longer and are more resistant to heat when compared to petro grease.
Thank you to you. I replaced timing belt 2001 Accord few days ago. Your video is the best I've seen to finish my job this time. But I have a question. How can I make sure P.S pump tension? Thanks in advance!!
You shouldn’t be able to twist the belt more or less than 45 degrees. If a new belt, even tighter. Or just enough so the belt doesn’t squeal with full steering wheel deflection. Thanks for your comment and support!
Thanks for the video!!! This will be helpful for an upcoming TB+WaterPump and Seal job in the near future. What did you use to clean the area?? I saw you sprayed something and then blew it with air.
7:31 DO NOT USE A CHAIN VICE GRIP LIKE THIS VIDEO! I followed this and scarred up the timing cam gears. The gears are made of some soft metal (aluminum?). Use a camshaft gear pulley holding tool and insert into the sides while turning the bolt. Better yet, just loosen up the cam gear bolts before removing the timing belt so you don't have to wrestle with the gear position aligning to the top mark. I ended up having to place an order for 2x new ones.
Thanks for your comment of concern ... but this is what most professional mechanics do to remove the "steel" camshaft pulley. There isn't a lot of torque involved in holding the pulley from moving while loosening the pulley bolt. Using the timing belt to prevent the cam from moving is not advised. It applies too much force and pressure on component bearings (like the water pump and pulleys).
If anyone follows this, the counterbalance shaft seal needs a retaining plate. Those seals like to blow out and dump all your engine oil on the ground. Maybe add that into your video to let people know.
Bruh this is why I don’t work on cars I thought I was a simple bolt to replace the pulley n he just did like 1000 steps ima stick to paying hundreds for a mechanic 😂
Great video but this makes the dual cam job timing belt job I did look like replacing a battery. HOLY COW the is more complicated than Chinese Arithmetic
I use just a little dish soap to lube the outside of the seal and grease on the inside. The Idea being the dish soap will dry out quick and the rubber from the seal will hold it in place.
Can you rotate the crankshaft freely just like you did with that top left balance shaft what I mean is rotate the crankshaft without the timing belt on or does the timing belt have to be on the crankshaft and camshaft to be turned
After watching, I realized this shit is way above my pay grade lol. But if I were braver and more experienced, this is the vid I would use to guide me.
After replacing timing and balancer belt, and water pump, now it looks like a small oil leak coming from where the wires exit the lower cover. We did not replace cam or crank seals, and did not remove the crank sensor. Any guess as to where the oil is coming from? I hate to think about opening it all back up again. thanks again,
Read cases of oil leak from the balance shaft pull seal. Oil leak can be coming from the vtec solenoid gasket attached to the engine block by the firewall. Easy acess if you remove the valve cover
I really appreciate this video. I see you had the car running without the covers on. I have an oil leak it appears to be coming from out of the bottom the timing cover. In your video it doesn’t appear that there is any oil or should be any oil within that timing cover.I know it’s very hard for you to say but would you have any guess on where my oil leak would be coming from? The leak is quite significant.
The other possible leak source may be from the VTEC / VVTI solenoid on the left rear side of the motor facing the firewall. Easy to service with the valve cover off. The rubber gasket shrinks and causes oil leaks.
Can you update the first link for the timing belt and water pump kit? It seems broken. I'm not finding anything good on Amazon myself. Looking for something that comes with the balancing belt and all the seals and gaskets too.
Updated with a vendor called "Domestic Gasket". Bought from them before and they make a good kit with the OEM Aisin water pump and Japanese brand called GMB for the bearings. Also comes with valve cover gasket and valve cover bolt gaskets.
At the beginning of the video you said you were putting the engine to top dead center, and made the mark on it. How do you know where the mark is supposed to be? I just took mine off and didn't do any of that, will that be an issue for me later on? I looked the harmonic balancer over and couldn't see anything that would line up with that piece on the timing cover.
@@hardlymovingpro Right I get how you'd do that on the top pulley but I don't see what your lining up edith the plastic notch. Is there an alignment mark on the harmonic balancer?
I have one of these in a 1999 accord leaking profusely from the lower cover. Previous owner had the water pump, timing belt, and seals redone. I'm thinking it's the cam seal as it only leaks when the engine is running. Is it possible to remove the cam gear/belt without pulling the lower assemblies off? Couldn't really tell how accessible the tensioner assembly is without removing the balancer belt. Very well done on the video by the way, should save us quite some time.
@@hardlymovingpro It's definitely the cam seal, it's literally pouring out of the bottom cover. Can I pull the cam gear without having to pull the entire bottom belt assembly?
Maybe. From my recollection, the TB nut protrudes from the center of the bottom cover. So take off the top TB cover, loosen the TB nut, pull up on the TB from the camshaft to loosen the belt tension on the cam sprocket ... then torque down the TB nut. Then remove the cam sprocket to replace the seal. But personally, I'd remove the lower TB cover because I don't find it to be time consuming and a big deal.
It's a Irwin vice grip style chain strap wrench. It's listed in the "Parts & Specialty Tools" area in the video text description. But here's the link to the tool in Amazon: amzn.to/2HvQnXl