The “sensor” is probably just a low resistance high current capacity shunt and car’s electronic control module measures voltage drop across this shunt and calculates current going in the negative battery wire to adjust alternator charging current. With only two wires going out of the “sensor” part, it would not be measuring anything else (like battery temperature suggested by one comment).
FYI: Batt sensor picks up temperature too from the fat lead battery post that plunges all the way into the core. You need an extended odb2 scanner to read the can-bus modules. Batt sensor is really the eyes that control the alternator output...
Hi if this sensor is faulty without obd code can it disrupt battery/alternator powering stuff in the car when driving ex. Like fuel injector and spark plugs??I think mine might be faulty ambient temperature and battery sensor reading is always off and I get symptom where I get engine surge.
@JoseSandoval-ic5xe It is possible. But I’d look at other things first. I’d make sure your spark plugs have been changed (if it’s over 100k miles since the last time), run some fuel system cleaner in the gas tank and make sure you have a clean engine air filter. Depending on how far off the voltage and ambient temp are off, they could just not be exactly accurate to other sources of data. As for voltage, this system automatically adjusts charging voltage for different driving scenarios.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Hi yes everything else is good spark plugs and fuel injectors battery and alternator are new, reason being is if I disconnect the sensor and reconnect the temperature reading changes a bit.
When I was planning out my battery upgrade for my 2016 CR-V, I was wondering what that component was. So does that mean this vehicle is equipped with both an ELD within the fuseblock for the positive side and one on the negative battery terminal? Singer Alternators does / can make a nice high output alternator for our CR-V (With the CANbus support), so now I'm wondering how the main power wire from it connects to the positive side of the system... if it's before or after any ELD/Sensors... because I would like to upgrade the wiring to be on the safe side when I do my own audio project. I'm keeping the factory navigation touchscreen unit in mine since it does supply clean fullrange differential-balanced pre-amp signals into the factory amplifier for all the channels. I just need to prepare my wiring for the amplifiers once I decide where I want them mounted at. The center console has plenty of room for the smaller amps that AudioControl and Rockford Fosgate makes, but I had the larger DSP models of AudioControl's amps. So I might have to do something else. As far as the battery goes, I'm considering the XS Power D3400R AGM style battery for up front, and maybe an XS Power XP950 AGM as a secondary somewhere else, as a possible reserve. Everything may be overkill considering I am aiming for a sound quality setup, and converting the front factory active 2-way into an active 3-way setup, and trying to stealthfully add a ported subwoofer in the back, with either a Dayton Ultimax 8 or 10 inch model... A ton of decisions to make. Either way, thank you very much for this helpful video, I keep learning more and more about how things work about my CR-V. :)
Also can you please tell me if there is a connection between two poles of sensor ? The one which is riveted and the one which goes with the stud. Do they have electrical connection when checked with multimeter at continuity?
I have a charging system problem light that only comes on when I drive the car for couple miles on my 2018 Honda Accord, would it be on because of this sensor? I read online and Honda only tells to check the Alternator belt to see if it’s loose cause it causes this problem but my belt on the car is not loose?
I don’t know what years but there was a Honda Accord recall for this sensor I believe. You should start by checking your recalls with the dealer. Also, your belt should only have a small amount of deflection. If the belt is worn out it could visually look okay, but still not be contacting alternator well enough to keep spinning it. If you’re not experienced with checking belt deflection you should have a shop double check that.
Question, I have a 2013 civic that uses the same sensor. I recently changed out my rear left tailight bulb, and 2 days later, my car would NOT start. It acted like a dead battery. I jumped it and started fine and drove fine. Parked for about 3 hours, then the car would NOT start again. I went to autozone and had them test my whole charging system, and all came back good. So the weird issue now is that if I jump the car, it will start fine, and there is 12.4v on the battery (checked with voltage tester) but when I turn car off for 5 mins or so, it will not start again BUT the battery still shows 12v and charged. Could this sensor be my problem?
Try checking the voltage with the car running and headlights and heater blower on. This sensor controls the output of the alternator. With more accessories on it will command the alternator to put out a higher voltage to compensate.
Thanks. Helped a friend. She had her alternator changed and thought it was a bad voltage regulator after the fresh alternator change. (according to oreilly auto parts diagnostics.) . We changed the new alternator for another, with the same result. Long story short, this was the culprit. We unplugged it and replugged it back in and voltage peaked at 14.5 running from 12 prior…..
Do 95 Honda Civics have Electronic Battery Sensors? I have been googling and havent' found anything about this. Scotty said newer cars started to use these. Not sure what he means by newer as in what years? Thanks for any tips!
The 1995 Civic won’t have these. These are a tiny way the EPA has encouraged increased fuel economy. If the alternator is charging at a lower rate, or not at all, it takes less energy from the engine. Therefore it reduces fuel consumption a tiny amount if the alternator is only charging exactly how much is needed at any time.
I was wondering why when measuring for 14.5V DC while my car was running would sometimes drop to 12.5V across the battery, it makes sense now that battery sensor is constantly adjusting the alternator charging voltage!
@JoesCarSmartsNY While I do appreciate the attention to detail in trying to get every scrap of mileage off the table that they can, Can't really justify the cost of that cable. Or the two cent diode resistant or shunt cap That is placed there in
I agree with you. The EPA is strangling car manufacturers by making cars heavier and more complex with more equipment to make them more fuel efficient and less polluting. But as more time passes we are expending enormous amounts of energy and time to prevent infinitesimally small amounts of pollution or fuel usage.
just had to change one on my ram2500 cummins, sensor looks damn near identical. i checked the supply voltage (12.6v) and data bus before ordering. data bus had a nice clean square wave. duty cycle between long & short ( 0's and 1's) had an obvious difference.
My battery light and brake light are on I have a Infiniti m37 and after changing the alternator it still stayed on. When I checked the alternator through the battery at auto zone they said the alternator failed. You think that’s my current sensor ?
I’m not sure I don’t know if your Infiniti has a sensor like this. I would be checking fuses to see if one is blown. It’s unusual (but not impossible) for a new alternator to die instantly.
Good explanation, nice job. If your putting in a big system you should run two battries. That Shuriken 1800 should be in the trunk with a battery isolator. Run a decent good battery for the car functions. Running amplifiers over 600 watts, your going to need an upgraded alternator. Of course that is only going to be beneficial if you bypass the dredded ELD, that Government forced device car manufacturers came up with to get the MPG up is a Car Stereo Enthusist's nightmare.
Appreciate the video, quick question. My 2013 Accord wouldn't start after parking, and it appears that the terminal itself, the part that goes over the negative battery terminal, is physically damaged. Can I disconnect the battery cable from the sensor, put it on a new terminal just to start the car and get it home, without damaging anything? I need to move it ASAP, and then I can replace the entire sensor assembly. Trying to avoid a tow charge for a short distance move. THANKS
You can bypass the sensor no problem. You will probably get a battery light and / or check engine light while you do this, but it’s perfectly safe for your short distance move to avoid a towing charge.
Thanks!! I actually lucked out, I was able to reshape the sensor terminal, sanded it, and placed a battery shim over the battery terminal. This allowed me to put a longer screw on the sensor terminal and tighten the heck out of it. It made good enough contact to allow the car to start, and now I can do it right!! Appreciate the quick and courteous reply, keep up the good work!
I have a question about battery temperature sensor.how to know the right or wrong way connecting new pigtail wires to old wires connected to car they have differently color wires but same size.
It sounds like your wires were cut or damaged and you’re replacing just the plug end? At 6:15 in this video is the best image I have of the two wires and their correct place in the plug.
Hi I got a couple obd codes a couple days ago both kind of saying low battery voltage is the issue, I've been having engine surge lately and short term fuel trims jumping up and down while car is stationary, could this sensor be going out?? I've also noticed my voltage drops to 12 while driving
I ended up redoing the wiring on my Civic and ran two more ground straight to the negative post. Is it okay for the sensor to be in between just one of the grounds? Or is it going to chop the current that it reads into 1/3 that way?
If you ran another wire directly from the negative of the battery and not from the same point as your original wire then you have effectively bypassed the current sensor so it won't be able to monitor battery loads, I guess that when you put on electrical loads it's not going to know that so won't adjust the alternator accordingly, you may end up with undercharging the battery.
I wasn’t sure how the system would react to additional ground feeds coming from the battery. However I’ve had mine wired with a large supplemental ground cable for several years and I’ve seen no problems.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY basically an electrical shunt is used to monitor current flow, it's like a piece of metal but has four connections, the main thick connections is where main current flows through, the two small wires are actually the (sense wires) that are connected between the same path of the mains wires, these two small connections will have a known value which is calibrated during manufacture of the shunt Eg. a 1:1 shunt will give the following results. 1Amp flowing through main connection will give a reading of 1mV at the sense terminals, 30A will give 30mV and so on. It can also measure not only the charging but discharging and it will give you a negative value. So this is how they work. However the battery sensor used in vehicles is likely to also have electronics built in so instead of just sending a (mV) value to the ECU it maybe converting this into data pulses etc not sure what they used but the principle in how it measure current will always remain the same. So basically if you want to measure the current flow in a circuit you have to use a shunt like this but if then if you bypass this with a another wire you are not getting the true measurent, you might have not noticed any problems as the ECU may have just adopted a standard value but you could be compromising efficiency or something else. Do a Google search on electrical shunts so that you get a better understanding, hope that helps, keep up the good work though we all learn from each other.
These are vintage terminals designed for the custom car audio enthusiast. Here are links to the terminals on EBay: Positive: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291924981387 Negative: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361796602639
I have the exact same honda crv 2013 and i got lights on my dashboard for AWD and Auto start stop system, i bought a new battery, bought a new alternator, checked all the fuses were okay, and i still get those lights on my dashboard. Also my headlights are kinda flickering. Should i replace the battery sensor?
Where did u get the Terminals from I’m looking to buy some because I have the same problem on my on my vehicle a 2014 Honda Civic and I upgraded the battery but that problem I have there
@@eatherlaboy1986 Anywhere it’s out of the way. I think I tucked mine next to the fusebox? I ran a wire from the new terminal to the sensor and then from the sensor back to the factory ground point. That lets the sensor “see” how much current is being used by all the OEM circuits. Then I added an extra large ground from the battery terminal to the cars body so the audio system could draw more current that way also.
The small wire? Not sure exactly what that would be called. It’s probably not available except at the dealer. Do you have any wire left at the connector?
Is it normal when voltage drop when I have lights off and also only side marker on? But when I turn on low beam, high beam, fog lights, fan speed to 3 the voltage goes up. Also, when lights are off and if I drive and let go of the gas the voltages goes up until I hit the brakes. Outside temp is like 83 F to 100F. I did use a OBDII scanner. It shows everything is good. No error codes. Tho, this voltage drops never happens before until this year. I had the battery change 2 days go. Still the same. I wonder is it normal because it is super hot. Oh and 2 months ago I notice the negative terminal was loose. I tighten it up. But now with the new battery every thing is nice and tight.
Voltage will fluctuate under those conditions. Are you watching it in real time with a voltmeter? Or are you actually seeing your lights dim or something like that to tell the lower voltage? I see now that you used an OBD scanner to check voltage. How low is it going exactly?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY I have a Heads Up Display and it shows me the voltage live. I was driving today. 25 MPH let go of the gas and let it go a bit 13.xx if longer on the highway and I let go of the gas it can go up to 14.2 volts. The voltage will go up. Went to a tunnel that has dim lights the auto low beam turns on the voltage goes up to 13.9 to 14 - 14.1 volts. Once I am out of the tunnel the low beam is off and only side markers on. The voltage drops 11.5 that 1 time but mostly 11.7 volts to 12.2 volts. If I remember correctly giving gas goes up to 12.5 volts. My low beam, low + fog and high beam never dims. It is always nice and bright even with fog lights on. Nice and bright. (I am using LEDs.) I check all the lights to see if the condition of the led. Some looks a bit burnt. I change it and the rest is very good condition and working correctly. I even check the dorms and trunk lights. Also, good condition. All lights are working 100% fine, I change out the license plates light. 1 of them die and the other one was dim last week. I change it to new ones and it is nice and bright too. Yesterday night I even unplug both headlights and front turn signal lights. Still the same low voltage around 12.5 volts. I plug everything back in. Turn on low beam and voltage goes up to 13.9 to 14.1 volts. I am guessing this is correct and that the battery sensors finally kicking in. Because in the pass it always stay at 14 volts, even with low beam off. Oh I have 2018 Honda Fit EX. Last night when I test the battery it say 12.64 volts with car off using multimeter.
@@DrivinginNewYorkCityNYC It sounds to me like the battery sensor system is working properly. Part of the reason the system exists is to reduce fuel usage because when the alternator is at full output it requires a bit more horsepower to turn it. More HP = more fuel used. So the system pays attention to the actual electric loads at all times and adjusts alternator voltage to make sure the system keeps the battery properly charged. In addition to the fuel economy issue, this system makes sure that the battery is never over charged. I presume this lengthens the service life of a battery. Just from your descriptions, I'd say that the system is working properly.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY THANK YOU VERY MUCH. Maybe because of the COVID-19. I start to look at that voltage a lot more than ever. Also, I am looking at my rear view mirror a lot too. Oh, 1 more thing. at idle throttle position is 14.5% engine running is that ok? Almost forgot. When should I worried about the voltage being too low when all the stuff off but with engine running? Is it 10 volts?
Driving in New York City, NYC You’re welcome. I’m glad to help where I can. I’m not sure about the normal throttle angle percentage, but it does need to be slightly open in order to idle so if it was my car that percentage wouldn’t worry me.
Not necessarily. Some Accords were recalled for fires because of these sensor l believe. If you replace the sensor you should try to use your existing battery. It would also be a good time to test the battery while it’s disconnected. A bad sensor does not mean you definitely have a bad battery.
I put a Group 48 AGM battery in my 2016 Pilot and " Charging System Problem " light is on the dash. The battery I put has higher amps than a Honda Battery. What is my recourse ? Can I ignore the warning as computer recorded "hoax" or is there an issue going on ? The manual states ( which I read after the fact ) that the battery must be of same exact spec. ( Take it to the dealer and pay more! IOW ) Please help, anyone. Thanks,
The higher available amperage doesn’t change anything. Did you keep this sensor in place and keep all wiring the same? It’s possible that the car doesn’t like the AGM technology, but I used an AGM and it doesn’t seem to bother my CR-V.
2012 honda crv battery light comes during on very cold mornings. It is ok on normal days.Once,I reset the battery cable sensor, it will be running fine until cold mornings set in. Did numerous resets during the last few months.Do I need to replace battery cable sensor to fix this issue.
@@cheonglin1019 I would have the battery removed, charged and properly load tested. These batteries are notoriously undersized and fail prematurely. If the battery passes a load test out of the vehicle after being fully charged, then you may have a bad sensor.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY The battery is fully charged at 14.3 V. I mentioned earlier the battery light comes on during winter months. No issue during spring, summer and fall. If the sensor is bad, it will not function in summer.It's kinda weird
@@cheonglin1019 Actually defective electronics are known for acting differently in different temperature extremes. Maybe you should get the car to a mechanic for a diagnosis then. I can only give you the best suggestions I can from my years of experience on vehicles and electronics. I’d be very interested to know what solves this problem for you.
Good question. Not sure. However I think there has been some electric power steering issues on these Hondas of similar model years. Maybe check some of the online forums? I’m on crvownersclub.com
From what I understand if the sensor fails the cars computer will command the alternator to charge at full output all the time and you will have a warning light in your dash cluster. However, it is POSSIBLE that the sensor can fail in a way that will prevent any charging from occurring.
@@yaaaaiiiittttsssskkkkkkkkk1248 If you unplug the small plug on the connector the car should still run, and if you connect your negative cable directly to the battery (and remove the sensor) it will still run. You will have a light on the dash tho.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY so would the alternator still get power even with the sensor disconnected. Or does the system not allow it to charge it anymore at all?
@@yaaaaiiiittttsssskkkkkkkkk1248 What I’ve been told is that the alternator still charges the battery with the sensor unplugged. But since the battery light is on all the time you’ll have no other warning if it stops charging. I’ve never tried to leave the sensor out or unplugged for more than a couple mins so I can’t guarantee any of this.
I just replaced the battery in my 14 CRV. It's supposed to take an r51 but Walmart gave me an r26. I put it in and ever since then my all-wheel drive light and my battery light have been on. I took the battery back and got the r51. I put in a brand new sensor and they still won't shut off. Alternator is doing its job. Battery is staying charged. All my fuses are good. Any ideas?
That’s a tough one. When I took my sensor out briefly I was getting the battery light. I’m not sure why you’d have the batt and AWD lights at the same time. Did you use a Genuine Honda sensor? Are you sure all the wires are properly attached to the battery and sensor ?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY it's not a genuine Honda sensor. Just an aftermarket one. I noticed in the video you mentioned the same issue momentarily. Wire installation is hard to mess up. Just the black terminal wire and the sensor plug
@@scottmack9066 got it figured out. Got the proper battery, spent the money and got the new sensor and electrical wires from O'Reilly's. Installed it and everything is good.
I have 2012 Honda civic. I have changed the battery and alternator. The alternator will not charge the battery unless the headlights are on. I have tried turning on AC, interior lights, radio. It will only change when headlights are in. Any idea what would cause this? Thanks
Could be this sensor. Are you reading voltage at the battery to determine if it’s charging? Or is the battery actually dying while driving? With this system the charging voltage is always lower unless accessories like headlights are on. The system adapts to the electrical load all the time.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY yes I'm checking at the battery. The car starts to slow crank and eventually will not crank. I can jump it off and it runs fine. It's never cut off while driving.
Okay so I’m getting ready to run a agm battery in the front and the lithium bank in the back for my system. I have this same stupid sensor and I did exactly what you did and my light is still on. Can you help
So, you kept the sensor inline with the original ground cable to the battery? You can relocate it but it has to stay in that circuit so the car can see the current draw at the negative terminal.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY yes it’s in the circuit again, I think I just have to keep the battery terminal unhooked for a minute. I’m going to put a bussbar on the sensor because I’m going to be running lots of grounds to my singer alt and lithium bank in back
So if my battery sensor is shorted, will my fuel efficiency go down? I replaced a air leak pcv hose and still have p0171 code up, C342D code, P0132 code and p0102 code Hoping the shorted battery sensor once replaced, deletes all other codes
The battery sensor by itself shouldn’t noticeably affect fuel efficiency. However if there are several engine codes at the same time like this the ECM is probably defaulting to a preset fuel map that it knows will keep the engine running. Unfortunately, the preset map ignores fuel efficiency, or mostly ignores it in favor of just keeping the engine running.
@@wubzschlubz5318 No. I’m sure your ECM is fine. But when there are multiple codes in an ECM it kind of “panics” because it can’t interpret the data it’s getting so it goes to a “safe mode” rather than shutting down the engine completely. With all the codes present and the ECM operating that way it cannot maintain peak fuel efficiency. It’s only concerned with keeping the engine running using a default fuel map.
The problem i have with these new cars and battery sensors it keeps the battery from pulling steady charge and i had to get boost offs all the time before i dropped a yellow top in there
Another issue with today’s Hondas is that the batteries are very small to begin with. I’m not sure why they do that, but that’s part of their design for some reason. In your case I’d guess the small battery is a bigger problem than the battery sensor.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY yes they are super small but it doesn't take much to crank a engine like that with the oil it uses. I live in canada where it gets to below 50 and never plug it in. Always starts
The sensor is still in the circuit, but I had to remove it from the battery terminal and relocate it elsewhere near the battery. I did this because I was installing custom battery terminals on a new battery.
The sensor in my Honda CRV broke while replacing the battery. No stock available with Honda. While I wait for the part, is it okay to drive the vehicle without the sensor? Anyone? Appreciate your response
When I tried to remove mine and leave it out I got a battery light in the dash cluster. Usually the battery light means the vehicle isn’t charging properly. It might be possible to drive without the sensor but I’d be concerned the battery might die because the sensor isn’t there to tell the alternator to charge.
Pulling the battery sensor wire off puts the computer in default mode which is charging constantly , it’s not a damaging effect but you want to get it replaced as soon as possible
Also because there is no communication between the sensor and the computer it triggers the computer battery error on the dash , I’ve done it before when my sensor failed on my 9th gen Honda Accord
Thank you all for your response. The mechanic advised me not to drive if the dash board red light goes on as the alternator will draw too much power from battery causing the battery to die abruptly. Ordered the part and waiting. Appreciate all your responses
Shankar Bala that makes no sense , an alternator charges the battery not kill the battery , only if the alternator isn’t working that the engine running will kill the battery but you said it’s the sensor was the problem , that mechanic doesn’t know what he’s talking about , I had a voltmeter on mine and it never died
It shouldn’t. When mine was removed I just got a battery light in the cluster. If it failed completely it’s possible you would get a no power, no crank condition. But if the engine cranks then this won’t stop it from starting up.
Joe S. Batteries and AWD don’t have headlights to show so it must be inside the car likely the dash. I am saying cause i have a 2012 civic ex and about to install a singer alt and noticed that sensor. Maybe I can put a thicker cable going from chassis to negative post. And on red post just change stock OEM wire to a thicker one.
Giovanni My ‘13 CRV has a Batt. and AWD light in the cluster. That was probably what was lit on my dash. My solution for this sensor (for aesthetic purposes) was to relocate the battery sensor out of view. So I kept it in line the same way it was originally. Then I did the Big Three upgrade from the 12V alternator lead to battery, larger alternator ground and larger battery ground.
I just installed a 200amp singer alternator & from trying to understand your video the alternator will not feed the proper amperage due to the sensor blocking flow of amperage?
Giovanni I kept my sensor in circuit with the original ground cable. I added new ground and power cables from the alternator so that the audio system won’t be restricted by the sensor system. With this configuration my system never starves for power and my lights never dim at all.
@@jesuszuniga1257 nope. You can purchase the part and replace it yourself. Or have a private garage do it. The battery light can also come on if your alternator is failing / failed. But if your car keeps driving with the battery light on (for maybe 20 miles or more) then your alternator is probably okay and the sensor is a good suspect for being bad.
My honda civic 2013 have same one like this. Its broken. But as you mentioned , that stud and battery terminal had no electrical connection. But mine sensor has electrical connection. What can be the issue ? Can you please clarify the working with multimeter . I will be grateful to you
I’m sorry, but I have relocated my sensor and it’s very hard to reach now for testing. I would suggest replacing the sensor if you’re having issues with it.
If it is ok for you then can I have your facebook id ? So that i can send you pictures of it. Because i am unable to find one in my city. And it is costing me way too much. I have an idea. Want to discuss with you.
Nawazish Ali www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2013,civic,1.8l+l4,3294223,electrical,battery+current+sensor,13536 Here’s a link to the part. I don’t share my Facebook or other info on RU-vid. That part is for the 1.8L Gasoline 2013 Honda Civic
use a DMM to check the harness that connects to the sensor for continuity/voltage... and to the sensor. I had to epoxy mines after the harness or wiring broke/disconnected during battery replacement of cheap Honda.
Hey mine came in too the check charging system. I notice that it only comes on when the weather is hot. I live in California. Like yesterday the weather was about 95 degree. And the light came on. Seems like the light only comes on on the summer
The only advantage goes to the stealership to rip you off yet again my battery sensor went off while i was driving . Went to the dealer for battery sensor recall anyway but work was done on sensor recall still sensor light is on dealer says its my fault this is typical of dealer.
This is a weird system. I have a big stereo in my car with a big agm battery. I have a volt meter in my car and the voltage kept dropping so i thought it was the alternator and my mechanic was sure it was too and he took it out and tested it but it was ok. He had no idea how this car works. You have to trick the alternator lol. When my lights are on and I pound my stereo it stays at a full charge.
My solution to this was to have my amplifier power wire connect directly to the battery (without going through this sensor) and kept the original Honda power leads going through the sensor. Seems to work good for me.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thats what I did I left everything stock and just added to the factory set up. It was a pain trying to get the wiring to the back of the car and speakers that fit in the back. I can barely close my trunk without hitting the speaker lol
Your voltage regulator is inside the alternator. It’s possible that this sensor could damage it, but it’s also normal for a voltage regulator to burn out over time without any other part causing it.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY I got an HR-V 2017 that the cluster goes crazy when parked and turned off, dealership says I need to change that sensor, I think it's bulls*it...
@@LoganRicardo That definitely sounds like a bad battery connection or ground. I also know there was a recall on one of these sensors in the older Accorda. Maybe the HRV has an issue now too?
I agree did this configuration even help tell the alternator charge your dual set up if you have one on you system or was this a waste of my on how to add a larger terminal please don’t take this the wrong way but no one on here has proven how to properly hook up a dual battery system to run a small inverter I guess I’ll be the tester for one. Ps where did you get the battery terminals from??
