Sounds way better, like mine did. Mine wasn't noisey but i just felt it could be smoother, and i was right. It made it feel like it had another gear. Best 80 bucks i spent. And i didn't bother putting it on tdc, i don't think theres enough slack in the chain for it to jump a tooth.
Just fettled mine, the rattling is down to a less then great design of tensioner. The spring loaded auto tensioner is a worm screw design, this allows slight slop in the mechanism allowing plunger to move back and forth. I screwed a longer bolt into back of tensioner body ( go easy on the torque though) finger tight and then maybe another few degrees turn, with a lock-nut to secure is all it takes. Is whisper quiet now, this bolt just takes out the slack in the plunger but doesn,t add unwanted additional tension to cam chain.
good vid mate, i hope you realize you need to put the centre bolt back in the back or your new cct, and if it was to be to OEM standards, you need to get a new copper washer for the bolt that goes in the back centre, i just hope you put one in there.
@@Duffloop oh good, my mistake, i think i missed that bit, i just cought the bit with the new cct in and running, and thought i couldnt see the bolt back in, in the back, and did the oh bugger. i would suspect though you will be replacing the cam chain in the next 10 -15,000 miles, but for a cheep fix for now, it does the job. thanks for shairing.
old CCT spring vs New CCT, obviously the new CCT works, but did you feel that the old CCT spring felt underwound compared to the new CCT when you wound the spring up? Hope that makes sense! Im just about to put a new CCT in since I'm doing the valve clearance, but really the old one feels just as good as the new one.
hello, very good video. I have a 98 with 120,000 km at 92,000 I replaced the timing chain tensioner and the same noise has sounded again. could it be the tensioner again? Or would it be good to make it a complete distribution...?
Well some people replace the timing chain at the same time (there's a vid on youtube about that - more of a pain though) - unusual but maybe that's become slack. Or maybe the noise is normal and we're all just paranoid?
Eventually id expect a time when the chain would have stretched a little too far and you would need tensioner and chain, but a great way to buy some time!
Did you check the stretch of the cam chain as well; Since when they design the tensioner they want the chain to make some noise to indicate to you that this area needs attention. Hence the tension is designed to not push much when the cam chain is worn thus making more noise.
Best comment I've seen on all the cct vids I've seen, makes perfect sense, this is why a mechanic told me not to fit a manual cct but he never explained why, my CBR600 only does it on start up, I now know it's trying to tell me something, it"s 100% hydraulic and didn't do it when new, tks
Is there meant to be some sort of cap over the end of the CCT. When you remove do so gingerly as not to knock it off into the engine. Plus im no mechanic thats why im sourcing info but i dont think you need to find tdc.
Yes there's a sealing bolt (don't think I pictured it) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VSr6zD4iT2s.html Aye many suggest no need to do TDC but I was curious ;-)
I suggest replacing the cam chain before 50k miles. These chains do stretch which retards the cams. Tensioner wont help with that. I installed a DID quiet chain which was half a link shorter than the worn out factory original. The DID is heavier duty and fits right in. I then installed a double dot tensioner and im very happy with the quiet result.
What was the first thing you opened? I saw you look inside but didn’t see you actually do anything in there. Was that bit necessary or you were just looking around?
Do you mean after I opened the Crankshaft Hole Cap? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VSr6zD4iT2s.html I look inside to see the TDC marks then, using 14mm socket, turn clockwise to align the marks. Many say this is not necessary with an auto CTT, but was curious and no harm in doing.
@@Duffloop yeah, that’s what I meant, thanks. It looks like I’m going to be doing this and I’m trying to understand what I’m doing. I don’t even know what TDC means haha. Are the marks that you are lining up easy to see for someone who doesn’t know what they’re looking for? Or should I just skip that step?
@@seansimon4428 You can't miss the marks - you should be able to see them in the video? A T and a notch on the inner metal bit to align it with. Anyway - most skip that bit if you're buying a straight replacement (an auto CCT not a manual one) Just don't move the bike while replacing. TDC = top dead center (ie 1st piston is up as high as it goes so the cam chain doesn't jump teeth).
@@Duffloop ok, I can see an O and maybe a T. It’s tough when I’m not sure what I’m looking for or where I’m looking, but I think I can find it. I appreciate the info, thanks again.
Do you think anyone can install it or you recommend to go to a mechanic? What is the most important thing I should know before I install it myself ? After install,do I have to use the screwdriver to adjust it to me sure dosent make any sound or is adjusting himself? Thanks !
Hi - It's one of the easiest jobs you can do. You don't really even need to set the cylinders to Top Dead Center either (I was just curious). Once installed it self-adjusts - assuming you buy the correct self-adjusting CCT. (Jaws motorcycles does one: Honda Blackbird CBR1100XX Cam Chain Tensioner Honda OEM CCT 06140MAT325). I reckon the hardest part is removing the the old CCT - the gasket was stuck (Use a few gentle knocks with a bit of wood or soft hammer to dislodge to old CCT - easy). 2nd hard part is cleaning the old gasket off the engine, shove a cloth in the hole so you don't get gasket bits in the engine ;-) Course the boring bit is having to take the side fairing off - ugh.
The twiddly bit is just that flat bit of metal that you can use like a screwdriver. It latches in and keeps the rod retracted. You pull it out after installing the new CCT and the metal rod pops out to tension the cam chain.
@@markwitham6784 No need to adjust once you pull out the 'twiddly bit' - it's fully auto. That's just installed to keep the rod retracted till you install it. The rod can only go one way - to tension the chain - ie the internal spring extends the rod. Unless you screw it back in using the twiddly bit like at 6:58. It's basically a retainer till installed. See rod extend when I pull it out.
Not big on keeping the bike clean are you? Damn shame to let a great bike like an XX get to the sorry state yours is in. You should be embarrassed to even show this bike in a video.
