How to remove a slave cylinder and cmc in a 2006-2011 8th gen civic si. #ktuned #fg2 #fa5 #fd2 #k20z3 Be sure to follow my project midnight fg2 build! www.instagram....
So I just changed my CMC and Slave cylinder out last weekend with the K-tuned and I found that by unbolting the brake reservoir and moving it to the side that it opens up a straight shot to the CMC which made it so much easier to get to. I was able to change both parts and bleed the system in about an hour. What a difference it made to my 2007 Civic Si 4 door. I like your videos because you keep shit real and don't act like your the greatest Civic mechanic on the planet like some of these other dudes do on here. Keep up the good work and Video's
Im about to do my CMC tomorrow. On my way home from the store today I stopped at a stop sign, took in 1st gear and went to shift to 2nd and i my pedal went straight to the floor. Got her home, reservoir was empty, filled it and tried bleeding it and heard air when i depressed the clutch pedal when it was under pressure with fluid in the lines. Im thinking the leak is at the valve on my OEM CMC but wont know until i take it out
@@robertjackson4642 the stock cmc and the stock slave cylinder worked great until they have there first problem and once that happen they will never work right again. I highly, highly, highly recommend changing both the CMC and slave cylinder at the same time. I put the K-Tune cmc and slave cylinder kit on my 07 si ( well its now my sons car) when I did mine and its still on the car and has no problem at
Thank you for the how to! For most people who dont know, the stock CMC and Slave cylinder are designed for "comfort" clutch engagement and can prematurely ware parts. This is why the OEM CMC doesnt last like older ones. The K-Tuned CMC and slave make eliminate the slower engagement and oil restriction, making it more responsive, but can shock your drive train if you are not careful.
@@Litto1 it's been a while since I did this and we know better now... The EM2 clutch master cylinder is drop in and go with no need to switch rod and clevis out.
Ch Bz what should i do if my car doesn’t shift right when it gets hot. or at all at this point. i changed the slave cylinder, trans fluid as well. what’s the issue?
Thanks big boss! Makes it look so much simpler then most videos i watched. 07 honda civic si 100k miles. Got from florida with no rust and is my new project. Bought the same cms and slave and was wondering how it all went before i go and put on. You're a big help for this tutorial
I bought 07 si they put a new clutch in it just 6 months ago but did not swap out the the clutch slave cylinder every once in a blue it will not go into 5 or 6 gear it goes very hard on me like it won’t fall in the gear.Once I pull over restart car it goes away like nothing happen.I have had the car for 5 months and has done it like 6 times .Do you think it’s the slave cylinder that needs to Be changed?
With the hose clamps they're a lot easier to take off if you throw an 8mm or 1/4" socket over them rather than the flathead if you haven't done it that way before
Back to your vids again man. I'm pretty sure my cmc went out. Like it was popping forever as they do. Until one day it made a weird pop snap noise from the pedal/cmc. Now it's really hard to get into gear when the engine is on. I feel like it's the cmc?? I need to get one in a pinch so I can get the job done this weekend when I have a moment. Do you think I'll be fine on the same csc?? Is it worth it to get oem at double the price of the rock auto special??
Gerb! I’m 4K miles with my ktuned set and I cannot get into gear at a standstill. I got my clutch bled cause there were air pockets in the line. It’s still like 50% cannot get into gear. What should I do?
I Had to replace mine, bought the the kit made by exedy. Lasted for about 4 months. CMC went out again. Bought the oreileys cmc lasted about 2 days. Had to buy the KTUNE no problems since.
I'm ordering the cmc kit this week. when my car is cold my clutch is floppy and light. I adjusted the clutch pedal and made it hard. I also replaced the clutch starter switch cause the stock one was broken. hopefully this solves my problem. I'm tired of warming up my car for 10 to 15 mins so my clutch works properly...great video!! I'll do my best as always. God bless 1
Hey gerb, please help!! Asap!!! So i went to turn on my car and it did. But the pedal has no pressure what so ever but it did come back up. I added some fluid to the reservoir and it leaked at the bottom almost identical oposite of the CMC by firewall. The car turns on with clutch but it wont allow me to go into any gear. Help. 07. Si. Sedan
+Charles Michael I replaced both due to my 2nd & third gear acting up. I will be putting up a follow up vid letting you know it the k-tuned fixed the problem
Hey brother, so I changed by CSC and the CMS and I'm trying to bleed it but my Clutch has NO give. When I push in the clutch it stays against the wall when it's all the way push in. Any help would be highly appreciated
Thanks for sharing man. Considering if I should do the same on my car. Currently, the clutch clicks when I press it. Also 1st to 2nd isn't always a smooth shift. Well see what are my options Thanks
You got it... Honestly, I've been hearing about people complaining a lot about k tuned products, including the cmc. I'm thinking maybe you should just get a newer oem one, but that's your call. Thanks for the love
4:54 slave cylinder. Just posting that for future reference. I have a 2007 EX and there's almost no tension in the clutch. The fluid looks horrible, so I'm hoping all I need to do is bleed and replace it. Awesome video!
It worked! I just replaced the front pads and rotors back in April and had a bottle of fluid that was almost full. I flushed the line until the new fluid came out and now it's shifting like new! The only thing I had to buy was a $9 bleeder kit from O'Reilly. If only the CBR was that easy to fix...
That’s what’s up! I’m glad that it was something small. Fluid gets filthy relatively quickly, allowing moisture to get into the lines. Also, debris sometimes get into the reservoir.
would this be the first "mod" you would do if you wanted to be able to shift hard when you feel like it? My 9th gen si locks up past 6k going into second.. and it's annoying/grinding my gears.
+Taylor Harless I would highly recommend k tuned cmc for shifting fast and hard man. I though they improved all the problems when they made the 9th gen, that's crazy. If you keep grinding, you're going to need to get tranny work done, which can be pretty pricey
nope... freakin honda lol I think they made it as a "safety" feature. And yea man.. i don't want tranny work having to be done. Car only has 74xxx. Today i kept my rpms between 2.7 and 4.5 just putting around town and the shift were very smooth. So until the cmc is swapped i'll just keep it around half throttle :) thx for the reply man, I wish you and your si well. (don't let any idiots wreck into it!)
+Taylor Harless she's a baby. I was deciding whether or not I want to upgrade to a 9th gen si or not. That's exactly what I was going to tell you to do, see, you know what you have to do 👍🏼. Let me know how you make out
Unfortunately i don't. The bleeder valve is on the left side of the slave cylinder. You need to put a plastic see through hose over it and crack it open.
@Gerb Productions should you change your slave with your cmc? I only ordered my cmc thinking that’s why I can’t get my car into gear when the car is running
I bought the K-tuned CMC replacement part - havent installed it - didnt know that I could/should get the aftermarket slave unit as well. Would just changing the CMC and not the slave (keeping OEM slave) still be beneficial or should they really be installed as a pair?
You're going to love it. Honestly, i stuck with an oem slave because i like the feel of it. Believe me, you will feel the difference between cmc's. I wouldn't worry about buying a k tuned slave, you'll be fine with oem, unless you hate the "delay feel."
I thought the aftermarket CMC got rid of the shift delay - are you saying that only coupled with an aftermarket slave will I get that no-delay shift benefit? And if that is the case - what does upgrading the CMC (and not the slave) do on its own - in other words, what are these improvements you mention that I can expect to feel when finally installing the CMC? Thanks for your video and reply!
+Gahechi Esmichi Slave mostly. Aftermarket CMC helps with quick/smoother shifts. No, mine paired with the oem slave is awesome. I have a slight delay, but i like it like that. The CMC makes the clutch pedal a bit stiffer & helps with certain gear issues. You'll see what I mean when you install it. Pretty sure it's stronger material (mainly the rod) on the k tuned CMC over oem, meaning it can take a beating. Also, replace your oem clutch line to a stainless steel line. Its way easier to install, disassemble.
thanks again for the info/reply. I went ahead and ordered the k-tuned slave as well - only $70 bucks or so so why not. The CMC kit that I got from k-tuned came with a new clutch line - i expect it to be of better quality than OEM. im really looking forward to installing it - your video has given me the confidence ive been lacking to do the job myself. Thanks again man!
GERB TURNS OUT THE CMC WAS MISSING A BOLT ON THE ACTUAL CMC. ITS GOT LIKE 3 ON TOP AND ONE WAS BROKEN OFF. DON'T ASK ME HOW IT HAPPENED. WEIRD. NOW I BOUGHT AN OEM ONE AND DO YOU RECOMMEND I BUY THE STEEL LINE FROM VALEX??
+Sti Wrx I had that same problem. I ended up replacing the CMC and slave & my clutch shit the bed completely not long after. I hope it's only a quick fix man. It could just be your CMC, not 100% sure
I'm about to be replacing my cmc and slave with a dealer part. Will be doing in a couple days. I'm still going to be using original clutch hard lines. Will I be able to remove the cmc and slave without unmounting the hardline like you did?
Gerb Productions thanks for the suggestion. I have it all back installed and works perfectly. I got the updated OEM cmc and slave from dealer. Reused the hardline and works perfectly. It's my daily so no need for the flexible steel line yet.
Why did you change the slave cylinder, my 2008 honda civc si doesnt change into gears unless I turn it off and this happen when I was driving to work and I tried go to 3rd gear put wouldnt let me. Do you think it's the clutch or master cylinder??
+Neil Bennett If I could go back, I would've done the k tuned slave as well because I currently have an oem one. Upgraded slave (ktuned, em1, or w.e) are modded, so there is no delay between shifting. Oem slave on the si's have a delay valve or something similar to it that pretty much cause a slight lag between shifts. People modify the oem slave all the time. Hope this helps bro
bro having trouble with cmc and slave, i did not bench bleed it , but its taking me a while to get the air out the system. i used most of the methods, but it seems that it doesnt work.
how exactly do you do that bro. just disconnect the hose from slave and let the dot run out or how do u bleed it correctly??! plz respond bro bro thanks
Great video mate, i wonder if you still have thats k tuned hoses, I installed the hardmotion cmc and it great but because of my battery relocation the hoses in the slave part it a bit stressed. That 90* and 180* degrees fittings are what i need. I you still have it can you sell it or at least let me know how can i fix my problem?
sabastian kimball requires 2 people. One at the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, and one inside the cab pumping the clutch pedal. Pump pedal 7-15 times then hold pedal down to floor with some tension, the other guy cracks the bleeder valve and closes with in a 5 second time frame. DO NOT RELEASE PEDAL UNTIL BLEEDER VALVE IS CLOSED. Repeat till it's fully liquid shooting out of bleeder valve! then, your golden. That's it. Easy savings of 100 bucks.
You don't bleed the master cylinder. There is only one bleed point in the system, and that is after the slave cylinder. The bleeder valve is located on the top of the slave.
Gerb! Dude my 09’ FG2 is locking me out of 2nd and grinding the shit out of it. I’m sure you have talked about it. If you had this problem did changing the CMC and slave solve the problem? If my 2nd is shot then I might just get rid of it, trans work is to much$.. let me know bro! Thanks!
Hey man great video appreciate the information, just had a quick question about the internals of the CMC. I know hybrid racing sells a similar kit and you had to swap some of the internal stock cmc parts like the rod and retainer to the new cmc, do you have to do that with the K-tuned kit as well or is it a direct bolt on?
Hey brotha did the steel braided line come with the kit or where did you purchase it at and what size? Thanks man love the detailed videos! Keep up the great work!
How did you adjust the pedal/cmc I just did stage 1 upgrade and having some issues once in a blue getting into gear. Feels like I have lost pressure on the cmc at times
Just installed mine. Was installing an IMG so figured while everything is apart, might as well install the K-Tuned CMC and slave. Wasn’t that hard to anyone interested in doing it. Putting everything back together now so haven’t tested it yet.
WOW, what a difference that made. No gear grinding. Chirps going into 3rd at 4000rpm, damn! Engagement is higher and has a slight vibration when I push the pedal down. This is a well worth mod.
Hey bro, love the vids. I have a quick question. I purchased and installed this ktuned cmc and slave, but I feel like my adjustment is off at the pedal and cmc rod. Do you know the proper specs for this adjustment? Thanks bro.
I have a question for you. 1. Did this help you with 2nd gear lockout at high rpm? I have the very common 2nd gear lockout and 3rd gear grind problem with my car (07 si sedan) I have no idea where to start with fixing it. I had a new clutch put in a few months after I bought my car. Almost a year and a half later this problem is still existing, but here is the really weird part about it... so during the winter times I will rarely ever get locked out or have grinding issues, however, during the summer, after I run my car for about 10 minutes, I have the issue all the damn time. When I turn off the a.c. and throw the heat on the whole way (but the fan is running at like 2 or 3 clicks) it seems to help the issue. I have no idea... my initial thought was that my exhaust would heat up after driving it for a bit and it would heat up the transmission and it would make the metal (the gears) expand and would just be tougher with shifting. I thought about heat wrapping my exhaust to see if that would help it at all. Maybe you have a suggestion or even you have fixed the problem by doing a few mods. The cmc seems to play a role in the whole shifting issue a little. For example I was driving home from work today (maybe a 10 min drive) and I was going from 3rd to 4th and as I was letting off the clutch going into 4th, my car just jumped as if the clutch got disengaged for a second then caught itself again. It would make sense if the cmc caused that (I was not over 5k rpms and I was shifting like a normal driver). I'm about to dump all my money into rebuilding this damn tranny if I can't find a solution. Anything That you can suggest helps, thank you!
Honestly, it helped with all my gears. I never had the lockout issue at high rpms though. Mine is the opposite of you, winter months are harsh on my tranny until my car is warmed up. For starters, start small, change your transmission fluid, clutch fluid, clutch pedal adjustment, bleed the slave cylinder, upgrade shift bushings
@@TheGerbsteve man these cars are a headache at times haha. But thanks for the advice. I was thinking about doing a full fluid change once I get my next oil change. Figured I would check everything since I only really changed the oil since I owned the car.
Where did you buy your K-tuned cmc? I bought mine online and took it to the mechanic and he said is not the right part. Now I have to deal with online return and I need to fix my car ASAP
Had a question so I got 2011 civic si and pedal had play in it so adjusted the pedal drove like 550+ miles then clutch started slipping is it clear to say it’s the clutch or would the master cylinder cause slipping.. car barley moves now
So I changed my cmc today but after installing everything, and double checking every bolt, wire, looking for leaks, etc. I couldn't turn on my car, I jump started it thinking it was the battery, it started and I left on for 30 min, turned it off, tried turning it back on and nothing. I know the car has power because all the light go on when I open the car but as i put the key in the ignition and turn it, the car loses all power and goes black I dont know what the issue is. I did the exact same steps as in the video, anybody know the issue, anything? Please help
Did you use the ktuned cmc fork thing that attatched to the pedal and where the pin goes through? I had to switch to the oem one because the pin wouldnt stick out far enough for me to stick the pin through. Also does your pedal click??
Nah bro, using oem. My pin was being a bitch to go back through, but i got it in eventually. Dude, pretty sure my click is gone. Didn't drive the car a lot after i replaced it, but i will be putting up a follow up video, so you will see
Yo Gerb are you still running this s Cmc and slave setup? I did mine about 1000 miles ago no problems yet but I keep hearing bad things about them. Bit tbh its been working great for me I can now red line from 1st to 2nd no grinds. Im getting the HR short shifter and and shifter cables next
@@TheGerbsteve i have the k tuned slave hopefully it wont give any problems in the near future. I also did the exedy stage 1 clutch and lightweight flywheel the car feels great.
Yeah man. I’m going to try and fit the alpha header onto the k24. If I have issues, I’ll just sell alpha for something that’ll fit, like dc sports, plm, etc.
hey gerb i had a question, so on my si it is all stock i believe, it is hard to get into the gears and second will feel like it goes in but then grinds sometimes i just got the car and when im at a dead stop and try to put it in 1st or reverse it doesnt go in easy at all but when im trying to push it in the car is starting to roll. im thinking it may be the clutch is not fully disengaging but im not sure, id like to get your opinion on the matter?
I figured it out, it was the clutch pedal whoever changed the clutch before I bought it didnt adjust the pedal so it wasnt fully disengaging but I adjusted it and now it is. Thank you for the advice tho!
First off thank you for the awesome videos bro. I think I speak for everyone of your subscribers when I say we appreciate the positive attitude and love for the Honda scene. With that being said I was wondering if the k-tuned cmc and slave had that much of an improvement on your shifting ? Really thinking of replacing mine on my 07 FA5... thanks in advance
+Thomas Proulx Means a lot man! I always try to be positive man. Honestly, they had an improvement, but it's my transmission that is shot, I believe. Under high rpms, it doesn't shift as fast as it should. It also winds here and there. I'm looking into transmissions. I would upgrade for sure though
Question gerb my 07 fa5 my clutch won’t engage but it will in 3-4 somewhat and sometimes it won’t engage at all do u think it’s a cmc and the slave or the clutch itself
Gerb u wear right it was actually just the throwout bearing but I got a whole new clutch just went with the affordable exedy clutch kit thanks for the advice gerb!
I have an RSX, I've been through 2 KTUNED Slaves in a month. Both were leaking from seals.. I had enough and went OEM will an EM2 slave....no issues... till now my KTUNED CMC started to leak from the rubber seal as-well. Im done!! Getting an OEM EM2 one as well. I think they should stop making the Slaves and CMC units.
Holy crap, this is interesting. How many miles did you put on the CMC before it started leaking?? Stick with oem man & i will do the same when mine shits the bed. Good thing i bought an oem slave. I don't think I'm going to buy there parts anymore to be honest???
I've been in search of responses for the KTUNED CMC and slave. Not enough reviews online, anywhere. I've read several responses on RU-vid and most people are saying that they've had an issue with the slave leaking or it failing prematurely. I'm so glad I didn't order their CMC/Slave kit. I'll stick with OEM as per usual. Thanks dude!
Gerb Productions so far so good. Got it installed today but there was a small modification that needed to be done since I had the Ktuned SS line. Other than that, no leaks and way better than before,
What up bro, I was just wondering if there was a specific reason you didn't get the k tuned slave? I'm still learning myself.. keep up the good content.
