Are you trying to replace your harness? I also run an obd2a Civic. I have an obd1 plugged aem ecu and run a jumper harness in between. I built current harness from a few other harnesses, but years later I would like to start from scratch. I can't find anybody selling a new china obd2a plugged harness, if that's what you're looking for. Or try to get a same year used si harness and mod that, probably what I'll end up doing.
@@GIZZMOTORSPORTS correct. Replacing the harness with a tucked harness. Now I have to source out a OBD1 P28. I do want to turbo the car later on but for now, simple and clean.
Actually if you have a 3 wire harness then itll only work with a mitsubishi alternator (its not an mitsubishi alternator is that honda was using two companies supplying alternators) if you have a nippodenso alternator style yes you need 4wires ..if you keep it 3 wires youll have alternator and charging issues .
You can already see what I used to make the harness in the video. It's just crimping wires and plugging them into the connectors. If you're asking about the wiring, I can't help you there. Every tucked harness out there can be wired differently. You need to take the time and map all your wires to where each wire goes. That's the part you need to do before tackling any wiring project.
hello again! I'm back with another question n.n on the alternator connector, how did you know which wires S, IG & L belong to to change to the green connector?
@@zairabarrigagarcia9411 you'll need wiring diagrams for the vehicle you have. I googled the wiring diagrams, went to my car and confirmed the wire colors and wire positions. I then googled the wiring diagram for a 4 pin connector that came on the harness. Did research to confirm if the wires were correct, which they weren't. Then cut the connector and rewired to the green connector based on the wire position.
How did you wire in the reverse lights ?? I have a 1990 civic wagon . With a d15b2 (OBD0) Im converting it to obd1. Dont you also have to get a different thermostat housing to replace the OBD0 one to fit the new sensor?
For reverse lights, cut the connector and change to bullet connectors or get yourself a obd1 reverse switch. For thermostat housing, yes, you can do it that way, or cut the connector and extend the wires to reach to the back of the block. I believe it also uses bullet connectors.
@@BudgetGearsI appreciate the feedback. If I could describe this channel in one word it would be “quality”. I will comment if I have any other questions thank you.
Hi. Sorry for the late question, but can you tell me where you got those connectors? For example the alternator connector? I run a 91 CR-X Si-R (sorry, we got those in Europe) and my connectors are really getting old and fragile, so I would really like to replace them, but my wires are fine. Thank you very much in advance and thanks for all the inspiration! Best regards, Tim
Unfortunately, there's not 1 place for you to get the connectors. If you're looking to replace all your connectors in your harness, then you'll need to search Google to find various sellers. I used Google to search for the connectors I needed. You can get most of the connectors from Beaver Power in Japan but you may find some on other connector sites etc.
Not sure which pinout you're looking for. If you're looking for the obd1 ecu pinouts, you can just find them all over the internet. They're readily available with a quick search. If you're looking for the chassis harness pinout, I don't have it. It was doodled on a piece of paper when I mapped it all out. Also, your harness pinout might be different than my harness. They're not all made the same.
I’m stuck at this point with my build. That harness that you made, is it available on the market? I have a 1990 civic hatch with a D15 B1. Im bad with wiring and I need that adapter you fabricated to finish. I’ll be running a D15 with y8 head and a stock P28 with an eBay y8 harness. After hooking up the ecu I have a male multi wire rectangular pin male socket. Where can I find the part to complete my install? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
The sub harness is available from many people that make the engine harnesses. Best to buy the sub harness from the manufacturer of your engine harness. As mentioned in the video, these harnesses are not all the same. If you purchased a China harness like I did, you need to do work on mapping your wires and ensuring the sub harness matches the engine harness. If you're not good with wiring like you said, then you should buy everything from a reputable store like Rywire etc. They have already done all the work to ensure the sub harness matches the engine harness.
I don't know who the supplier is. The harness is just a China harness. You can easily find them on Amazon, Ebay, etc. They're practically everywhere in different ranges of prices too. I've seen them for prices significantly cheaper than I paid on various platforms. I'd suggest doing some searching on your own as they're all the same and probably made by the same factory in China. I can't speak for the wire in the harness, but the description did say rated for 150 degrees Celsius, which is about 300 degrees Fahrenheit. So likely teflon wiring. I used 22 gauge wire purchased at a automotive store to make my chassis adapter. The chassis adapter will not see high temps so any wiring will do since that resides inside the car. As for if it can handle heat under the hood for turbo, it depends on how hot your setup gets. Everyones setup is different. If your setup gets hotter than the wire specs, then you'd probably need some kind of heat shielding for your entire wire harness. It also depends on which wires are close to or touching extreme hot areas of your engine. If you've noticed, a stock o2 sensor would usually have heat shielding around the wires. So it's really up to you to protect your own wires from extreme heat.
@@zairabarrigagarcia9411 there is no blue harness connector. That's more a dead end box. Its for where a bunch of wires connect to 1 a single source like a ground.
Dont take this the wrong way but its been said over and over. When youre doing swaps in a ef/crx always keep your original harness and add the wires that you need ..for efs that are not SI youll need to add 8-10wires (2 for cyp 2 for ckp 2 for vtec 4 for oxygen sensors ) but if you wanna buy these newer harnesses youll need to either way cut the cabin side harness to make that new engine harness work..out of all the hondas the efs are hardest and worst to do swaps too..egs you order a harness and its plug and play on efs you still need to cut wires and add no matter how much you spend..however if you dont care and its just a drag strip car then throw the entire wiring of a obd2 civic into a ef youll have to use everything out of a ek including the cluster and fuel pump harnesses i mean everything
@@boostboyracing Can't remember, but something pretty obvious like ST. Plus, it's the only wire with a female spade connector. Only 1 place it could go.
