Thank you sooo much for this video because Im about to this very same install. Im also glad that neither your wife, kids, dog or buddy wasnt around to interrupt the video. Recently I did a how to video on something & told my buddy not to make any noise or ask me any questions. What's he do? Pulls a beer out of his pocket, pops the top bangs his beer down, coughs while he's smoking & starts asking questions while I'm videoing. I asked him to leave & now were no longer friends. Lesson learned? Never have a friend around when your trying to make a video. NO apologies could ever fix this. Last I heard he got another DUI. Ha & go figure.
Thank God for you!! Your video is the only reason I was successful in installing my conversion kit. I’ve had it for quite a while but been putting it off cause I was afraid to ruin my new Honda Generator. Started on the 2nd pull!! By the way… I’m a older woman 😊 Now I’m ready for the coming snow storm and power failure. Thanks again!!!!!! Regina
If you like handy work, then you should have fun doing the conversion too! Are you keeping it propane only or are you planning to run gasoline too? Since conversion, we have only taken it camping 2x...and only actually used it 1x. The time we used it was purely for a fun load test experience during Thx Giving cooking while boon docking. I was filming the generator at 4500ft elevation with my Victron 3000va inverter on hybrid assist in our trailer. Wife was turning on and off microwave and ninja foodie was cycling. Our electronics/solar setup could handle all of it, but I wanted to show a fun video load test of the propane conversion working with Victron hybrid assist. I was limiting Victron AC current from 10 amp to 18 amp during the test (cooking dinner), and the Honda app showed ranges from 1000w to 2000w of running power. Fun...will get to that video one day.
With this much excitement I could see Jeff doing back flips across the yard! We had many happy customers like Jeff call and thank us for building a product that is money well spent.
Trust me, my reaction was not scripted :) I was truly super pumped up. Keep in mind, this was day 2 of filming activities of which the previous day was filming inside my garage all day (Phoenix, 100 degrees outside...hot and sweaty in garage). I was so anxious to finally start it, but I still wanted to do the proper walk through on the video. Make everyone experience the same "first start" feeling that I did. Thx for watching!
Just followed the video and it worked first time! Thanks so much for the video. I am a noob to this work and it gave me the confidence to make it easy.
I bought the Honda EU2200i. Good thing I ran it on gasoline first. It had a problem. It's symptom was surging with or without load. The vent was open, so that wasn't the problem. I could have had Honda do the warranty work but I'm handy. One of the carburetor jets had something clogging it up. A little cleaning and wala! It was working great!. ... Now that one fuel was tested and vetted, I'm going to install a propane conversion like the one you showed in your video. .... Great work on showing details of the install of the Grenergy Propane Kit!
I didn’t run it first on gas. That’s why I was soooo excited at the end of the video when I started it. It was the first time and I had no idea if I destroyed it or not! I got lucky by not running into any surging issues. Even to this day…rock solid.
@@girouxcampingadventures I just ordered my Grenergy tri-fuel kit. The aluminum injector with the carburetor sold me. Aluminum is better that cheap plastic. People in bush Alaska rely on these Honda Generators. Options for fuel, super important. Propane in steel tanks never goes bad. ......
I got the Hutch Mountain conversion. Simple to install and works great. I was skeptical, but these conversions can be really nice, and are easier on the engine. Not a bad idea to pick up a magnetic oil cap as well.
I was looking at Hutch too. I think I went with Grenergy for the challenge. Meaning, I didn't see any install videos out there so I decided to make one myself. In fact, I didn't really want to carry a generator. This whole last summer trip (2 months, 7000 miles)...I only pulled out the generator one time. And that was to film the quick 1 minute Stensland Family Farms thing where I ran my A/C on generator. So mainly...for video purposes. We have enough solar and battery bank...and proper planning to avoid needing generators. But nice to have in case...
@@girouxcampingadventures Agreed. I have only used my generator a couple of times when camping in cold weather, and before I went solar. I am planning for a winter group campout now, and am in Oregon, which means 3-4 days or longer, with no sunshine is quite possible and a scenario to plan for. I plan on also using a Shiftpod tent, with a Buddy heater, along with the cookstove so it made sense to convert it to propane, instead of carrying an extra can of gas.
The problem with the Hutch kit is that at best, it's bound to fail. And at worst, cause an explosion. The weakest link in their system is actually the piece that feeds the propane into the engine, which is simply a piece of 3D printed plastic... Anyone who installs that has to be genuinely insane.
Great video!! I referenced it all afternoon, doing the conversion to my 2200i. The instructions did not seem to follow logical progression, and one of the gaskets was shown (incorrectly) to be backwards. OK, minor complaints. I really depended on your video to keep me between the ditches. You are a great instructor!
Awesome. Good to hear. Did you happen to run on gasoline first or only propane? I still have NOT used gasoline yet and rocking propane the few times I have used it during camping. And yes…free stuff from vendors is always appreciated.
@@girouxcampingadventures nope! Thanks to you, it came fresh out the box directly to conversion. I was trying to think of a random scenario that I would need to run gas. You come up with any yet? 🤔
Just following instructions from Grenergy. The vendor has a pretty good page regarding why the vent holes exist. Maybe Grenergy will make a no-drill kit in the future. I would sell my current generator and buy a new one so I don’t have holes in the new generator. Honestly, though I trust the work and research done by Grenergy. I did a load test video and had zero issues with this kit, ranging all different kinds of altitudes and loads. grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why
Finally got mine all set up and installed on my Honda Twins. In a weird turn of events, I saw my eu2000i was able to push more continuous watts than my eu22001 companion. I was running a stress test into my EcoFlow Delta Pros and the 2000i pushed about a hundred more watts than the 2200i was able to do. This was solely based on what the EF was showing as an incoming wattage.
That's interesting. Are you running the 2000 and 2200 in parallel too some times? Also curious if the regulators need to be adjusted differently for 2000 versus 2200 when running heterogeneous setups like that. Would be interested to see what Grenergy team says.
@@girouxcampingadventures Jeff, the regulators are interchangable and yes I swapped them with the same outcome. When I reached out to Grenergy, the theory is that the 2200i has better overload protection than the older 2000i. I have not run in parallel yet. My buddy tried to have be drag out the Hondas on Saturday when we tested my interconnect with the EcoFlow Delta Pros running their Dual Voltage Hub. Base load of lights, fridges and fans are a lot higher than I had thought they might be.
If you need the extra power running propane run a load block on the one way 6" pancake KN valve outlet. I had to in order to start a air compressor wouldn't on stock propane kit after load block it started easier. With load block adjust the generator on the lean side at idle and wide open under load. As all the professionals told me over the years with propane you can't go to lean. But warning don't run on the rich side engine will run hotter, use more fuel and can cause early wear, tear and failure. I've been in the auto and racing field for over 30 years and installed a few kits and added load blocks for more power and fine running. With a load block you can simply adjust to any elevation with a simple adjustment, a lil more power and better fuel efficiency!
Old but works I imagine, right? Maybe Grenergy has a kit for your model. Check with the team and see. If so, you should totally do it! Thx for the comment and watching!
I've done 3 propane generator conversion kits and I have another one to do. I'm thinking about buying this kit because I like the metal base plate and brass fitting that's as good as it gets. Your spark plug that comes with it what is the gap they're running in thousands of an inch? I don't have my paperwork in front of me but most of the conversion kits call for a tighter spark plug gap at least the biggest guys in the business I've worked with do. I've been in propane and using propane products since 1991. I may sound like Hank Hill but I have all kinds of propane products accessories and propane tanks. Propane is the true prepper fuel! And the advantage of propane powered stuff. I don't have to work on it other than light maintenance once and a while.
I don't recall the spark plug gap on the kit-included piece. I did keep the spark plug box that arrived with the kit, but there was no measurement. I pinged the Grenergy team to chime in.
Thanks for detailing. I always watch 3-4-5 different install procedures before coming up with my own. Not sure about the Super glue at temp, might want actual loctite that is temperature rated. ... Half way thru, really hoping to see some load tests, load step tests, eco tests, etc. The last video I watched ended with him just idling the machine D O H
Super glue. I questioned it too. However the original bolts didn’t have any loctite on them. Probably didn’t need anything extra. I agree though, Blue loctite would be better. As for load test…check out my recent video. Load test - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PLIj8RglIyI.html
Thanks. Was easy but lots of time taken to be careful and done right. Especially extra time while video recording as that ALWAYS increases the total task time.
Thank you for a wonderfully detailed tutorial. I plan on using the new 2200ie daily for off grid living. For daily use, should I use gasoline or do the conversion? My concern is if the propane is going to cost a lot more for daily use??? 🤔
I don't have an answer for daily use since that is not my use case. But...if I had a home with backup generator and a natural gas or propane gas source, I would go that route. What are you powering daily? Can you setup some solar and inverter with batteries?
If you'd simply opened the float bowl drain.... ;) (Thanks Honda for being one of the few manufactures left to provide a drain on the float bowl for easy gas draining...)
@@girouxcampingadventures Right, but as a tutorial meant to demonstrate for folks who don't know any better... This whole "pull start, die... pull start... die..." procedure is 100% unnecessary and not nearly as effective. Honda so graciously provided a float bowl drain. It should be used. It's the only way to truly empty all gas out of the carb. (Running it out doesn't actually get it all out...)
@@girouxcampingadventures Sorry to be... "one of those types." :) I should say "Thanks for the excellent video which helped me greatly in installing the kit!" But instead all I do is complain. Typical ME. lol Seriously, thanks!
Hey Tony, thx for watching! Hopefully you have your own genny and plan to do the same cutting and manipulating of the generator too? You'll have a blast and thx again for watching!
Before I put holes in the side of the case that might affect the overall intake and exhaust flow - generator cooling. I would want to see a simple $15 - $20 air wind meter on the front intake and the back of the generator exhaust side and just the hot air rear outlet while it's running without the vents installed in the side and a laser gun temperatures. and the same test with the vent or vents cut in the side of it. Always keep your generator in the shade out of the sun it will run cooler. Not sure maybe they have done these tests hopefully someone will do a video of they have. One guy in the summer running a 1000 watt generator in the shade. He was off grid for a while and ran a small window AC. And the 1000 watt 4 stroke generator ran the rotary knob AC. He took the side panel off on generator pointed a fan at the generator in the shade. After that the generator was smoking oil smoke - ring wear while running. These inverter generators pull cool air in through the front and around the generator and push our the warmed hot air out the back. Like in building engines to big of cylinder heads, header, intake, carb, cam cuts down on the flow of the horse power and torque! Someone test this with these $30.-$40. tools total and then I will believe it if it works!!!
Good points. I only know of the reason why the vent holes are there and placement...based purely on Grenery's blog post. grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why. However after a quick read I don't see any research performed around temperature. Hoping Grenergy team chimes in.
Hi Tom, the breather vents don't draw a lot of air into the generator enough to take away from the front air intake of the inverter unit. It just relives pockets of areas with low vacuum inside the case. Removing the maintenance door completely will surely take away from the generator's in/out cooling channels. But with just the vents, the generator does fine according to customers whom first purchased our kits 2-3 years ago. Most of are running them in the woods 24-7 in their cabins. If you look inside the generator you can see the recoil assembly sitting behind the inverter unit. This recoil assembly has the engine fan that pulls in air to cool the engine head of the air cooled engine. As this fan draws in air, it also passes air around the inverter as its being drawn into the recoil assembly cooling it.
This is awesome and so detailed. So is the point of the conversion to have an energy source that’s a bit more convenient for campers instead of carrying gasoline?
Buu, gas is a bit messy and a touch dangerous to store in/near your home. Not to mention all of the nastiness that Ethanol brings in the smaller motors. Another benefit is that the exhaust when running propane is not as obnoxious. Also when running gasoline, you have to drain the fuel from the carb either manually or by running it until the fuel in the lines/carb is consumed, and this is messy. As I read the manufacturer's info, they are claiming that a 20lb tank of propane will run twice as long as the single gallon of fuel it holds internally.
@@carlbrothersvery nice benefits, thanks. I’ve only had to use my generator once but have been looking at a few trips that may require me to bring one along again. Maybe next year.
@@buulam the Honda's are pricey, but you get what you pay for. I also have recently acquired some power banks from EcoFlow that charge very fast on AC, allowing me to minimize the time needed to run my generators.
There's many benefits with running propane. 1.) Extended fuel run. A 20lb BBQ size propane tank will run 18~24hrs on a single tank. 2.) No smelly exhaust fumes. 3.) Propane has less carbon content than gasoline, which keeps the spark plugs cleaner, engine oil cleaner and improved engine longevity without all the carbon build up. Most campers have a pair of 30-40lb propane tank mounted up at the front of the RV. This is enough propane to last a whole week running 24-7. And this kit also compatible with Natural Gas. Great for emergency use during natural disasters when gasoline is not available.
Yes, alternative source of fuel. I was super careful with my first generator (gasoline) and tried really hard to avoid spilling. Had a cool gas tank too. But every time...spill. Another reason, less cargo. If you have a propane tank you haul around already...which we do (firepit, bbq), then might as well share the tank. And...leave the gasoline tank at home. You can get super crazy by purchasing bigger propane tanks, horizontal ones...extend that generator usage. Another reason among many...less gunk in the carb. If you run gasoline, then you have to do more maintenance. Not saying there is no maintenance with propane, but much less gumminess in carb and hence less cleanup...easier maintenance. Also...cleaner! Still, there are fumes so practice safety. Keep your generators far from the open windows or doors to avoid fumes (that you can't really smell on propane) from entering your living quarters. Enjoy!
Ben, totally do it. I saw your current trailer solar project! I have lots of solar on my RV too but not nearly as much as you will have. I still found a need to have a generator over the summer when it was hot or if we were stuck parking under a tree. You might found the same need. Thx for watching!
Really a cool video. 👍 Just a quick question? What happens when the generator shuts down on an overload and no one closes the propane tank valve? Is propane leaking in the generator (Garage)? Should the choke be used as if the generator would run on gasoline? Thank you, from Quebec City, Canada
Choke not needed. As to the first question, I’ll ask the Grenergy team to chime in. I’m curious myself. My guess is that the generator needs to “pull” and be working. I would imagine there is safety involved in the fuel adapter but I’ll let Grenergy answer officially.
Hi Andre, that is the job of the demand regulator. If there is no vacuum signal from the engine, the regulator shuts off fuel flow to the engine. This shouldn't be relied on when your no longer using the generator but the demand regulator is smart enough to know to stop fuel flow when its not needed. No choke is needed to start the engine either.
If the engine stalls/fails for some reason the propane will just keep running and leak out through the air filter. It cant be completely ruled out and the consequences might be catastrophic. This scenario should be mentioned and considered as you will build up a serious EX atmosphere in any kind of confined space. Like for example the people who install it in a caravan without EX-proof electical appliance in there. Also it needs to be considered that LPG is heavier than air and will accumulate in lower areas cellars etc. when ventilation is insufficient in such a scenario. Any comment on that?
Hi, to answer your question. It's the demand regulator’s job to stop fuel flow should the engine quit running, but you should always keep an eye on your equipment every other hour. Very rarely does something catastrophic happen, as any responsible home owner or RV owner, everyone needs to do their part in ensuring safety of every piece of equipment in their possession. Common sense and situational awareness ALWAYS have to be practiced when doing anything to prevent worst case scenario. For example, I DON"T operate my generator near my RV, and if I do. I place it downwind from me to prevent exhaust from creeping back into my living space. I MAKE SURE to always use propane outdoors with plenty of ventilation. If you look in your Honda user guide, it specifically states DO NOT OPERATE IN ENCLOSED/CONFINED AREA'S. Generators that are Duel/Tri fuel from factory also reads the EXACT SAME THING. I'm not sure how much else I can clarify this when it’s just common sense. Do you use your propane BBQ grill indoors? Probably not, it’s very much self-explanatory. Sure, there are people who are just completely unaware of anything. If that's the case, these folks have absolutely no business being around generators at all. There are enough warning labels, hand holding, frivolous lawsuits and outcry’s where suddenly self accountably has no meaning. I apologize if this comes off as rude or harsh, but there's no better way to explain truth without someone getting offended. Stay safe.
hello brother, great video. I already did this conversion thanks you. Can you show us how once it's set up for LP, how to convert it to natural gas, thanks again for your time.
I personally do not have a natural gas setup at home...so no video. But...Grenergy has a video (not too many details) showing a quick opening and where you need to adjust for natural gas on the carb line. It's around the 10min mark in this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lxoo_M3PM64.html. Also, the Grenergy manual that came with my kit has a "Changing to Natural Gas Setup" with full instructions on page 8 of the manual, so you should be able to find the necessary details there. If not, reach out to Grenergy support as they have been awesome and quick to respond to all of my emails.
QUESTION FOR ANDY - Why do these kits not simply run a very short hose above to the left of the carb instead of going all the way down and around? (The "J" config...) I'm sure there's some reason, I just can't think of any myself. Seems odd to have to run a giant hose through the crowded spaces down and all the way back up around the intake rather than just running a short 3" or so directly to the carb on the left side?
Hi AJ, I’ll list the reasons below. 1.) The choke lever is in the way, and part of the generator door bezel wraps around the lever leaving no space. 2.) The LP/NG hose is very stiff, and changing out the LP or NG jet orifice “located inside the fuel adapter bass fitting” would be almost impossible in a tight space. 3.) Fuel flow is most efficient when there is not a large 90-degree bend. 4.) Easier CNC machine setup, drill and cut, during manufacturing of the fuel adapter. 5.) On the EU2000i, that side of the generator gets drilled out for the fuel run down kill switch.
Thanks for taking the time, I have a question, its been set up for propane, what if you want to use natural gas, propane is good for portability, but what if I want to connect it to my home natural gas for emergencies, how would you go about setting it up, thanks again
Hi, the kit allows all 3: gasoline, propane, natural gas. You need to swap out the jet orifices in the venturi spacer plate adapter (the Grenergy fuel adapter). There is a natural gas (NG) adapter you attach to the rubber hose before the carb, and there are instructions in the Grenergy book to do this if you need to run NG as opposed to LP. Once you do that, you can operate NG. Finally you can adjust the low/high idle regulator screws if NG causes the generator to run rough. If you look up the product on the Grenergy site and look at the pics, you'll see a little natural gas adapter. In one of the pics below, it's the little threaded thing on a ring...just below the carb adapter. Go to the actual product listing and scroll through the pics. grenergy-us.com/collections/eu2000i-and-eu2200i-tri-fuel-conversion-kit/products/eu2200i-propane-natural-gas-gasoline-tri-fuel-conversion-kit-for-honda-generator-inverter
@@girouxcampingadventures thank you for taking the time to reply I placed the order yesterday hopefully everything is included, I guess the nest thing is to have two different quick release regulators for each gas set up
Correct. Page 15 of the manual has a diagram showing the demand regulator as well as the high/low pressure regulator. As you hinted, you will need to disconnect the low/high regulator (smaller one) meant for LP. The bigger demand regulator will then need at least 1/2” inside diameter hose for connection to the residential NG line. I wish the manual was available online. I would point you to the pages around page 15-16. If you ordered the kit then you’ll get the whole book too. I asked for a PDF copy but was unable to get one from Grenergy.
why do they need added vent holes and different spark plug? Did the company say? Other dual fuel generators have one plug that will work both on gas and LP and don't have any additional venting. Can you give the numbers of both the original plug and the replacement?
Here’s the Grenergy article for reasoning behind vent holes. grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why The spark plug question was asked in another comment and answered. The spark plug that comes with the kit is gapped differently. Essentially if you plan to run more liquid gasoline than propane then I believe the Grenergy team answered in the comment to switch back to original plug. They suggested gapping somewhere in the middle of both specs. Additionally they stated that it wouldn’t harm the unit if you had to run liquid gasoline for a few days on the gapped spark plug for propane. To this date, I have yet to run liquid gasoline. The vent holes also don’t cause problems for me. Unit still works great. Have run it at 4500ft elevation with no additional adjustments, ran 2000w, various other tests. Plus “other” generators don’t have the massive 120cc engine displacement that a Honda EU2200I has.
More info from previous reply from Grenergy team regarding spark plug... "running the generator on gasoline with the spark plug gap set at .020-.022 wont hurt the generator at all. Reason for gapping the plugs closer on LP/NG is the fuel mixture is harder to ignite with alternative fuels than with gasoline so this is the reason for new plug gap specifications." also this answer... "If you like to switch between gasoline or propane consistently I suggest gapping the plug at .023". Having the plugs gapped at factory specifications will allow best efficiency for gasoline. But if you only chose to run gasoline when you absolutely don't have access to LP or NG, doing so at .020-.022" plug gap wont hurt anything if you run it for a few days when needed."
@@girouxcampingadventures Will your kit work on a Champion 2500 watt inverter generator? Do you recommend vent holes for that generator also if you have a kit for this generator? I thought gapping a plug wider would actually create a "hotter" spark because it takes for current for the spark to jump a longer distance?
Good question, Paul. I was simply following the Grenergy kit instructions. The book says to use super glue and not Loctite. When I pulled out the original Honda factor bolts, there was no Loctite on those. Hence, I figure why put Loctite on the new bolts. In fact, I question the feasibility of super glue on the new bolts as well. However, I will leave that question and answer to the Grenergy team as I'm sure they have done way more installs and tear downs than I have done. Hopefully they can speak to the efficacy of using super glue long term in this kit conversion.
Hi Paul, if you were to use Loctite you will never be able to remove the bolts again. At least with super glue you can break it loose if the engine needs to be serviced.
According to the Grenergy manual, a 20lb tank can run a 1600w average load for 14 hours. If you have ECO mode enabled and only running an average load of 800w, then you get about 21 hours.
I plan to start using synthetic oil maybe around 100 hours. As for gasoline...not an option for me since I never want to put liquid gasoline in this generator. For me...more of a toy/science experiment. I don't mind seating piston rings with LP over gasoline. Though...I'm no engine expert and have not looked up the pros/cons of running either to seat pistons. Do you know?
@@girouxcampingadventures youtube will send my comment to the spam folder if I post links, but you can google search to find the web site for uscarburetion. They sell generator conversion kits and they have a FAQ video titled "General Installation Video" in which they state you must run a new generator on gasoline for 2 hours before running it on propane or natural gas. In their discussion forum, they say in their experience, some of their generators (they are also a yamaha dealer) would start smoking within a couple hundred hours if not broken in on gasoline. They say they believe the additives in gasoline are helpful in seating the piston rings. Their observation seems probably valid, although I don't understand the proposed theory. It could be the additives as they say, or it could be the interaction between propane and engine oil film on the cylinder wall and piston rings somehow messes up the piston ring seating. It could also be their conversion kits are not calibrated correctly and a sub-optimal combustion messes up the piston ring seating. It could be something in gasoline combustion byproduct that helps with piston seating. Or it could be that gasoline burns at a different temperature than propane and thus helps with piston seating. Or some combination of all these factors. I dunno. I scanned through some owners manuals for different generators that are bi-fuel from the factory, and most don't say anything about piston ring seating, except the manual for Champion generator model 201083 says to run the generator below 50% load while varying the load, without using synthetic oil, for 5 hours, in order to seat the piston rings. It does not call for breaking in the generator with any particular fuel type. So, since none of the owners manuals say anything about it, then it's probably not going to cause too many generators to fail if you break them in on LP or NG. My opinion is that it probably won't hurt to run a new generator on ethanol contaminated gasoline for only a few hours. But if you want to be extra cautious, you can seat the piston rings with ethanol-free gasoline, using regular oil, and then switch to LP/NG and synthetic oil after a few hours of break-in time. Switching to synthetic is the best thing you can do for any engine. It's easy enough to use some water to separate out the ethanol from some gasoline for breaking in the engine. After all, it's the ethanol that's more harmful than the gasoline. Yes the combustion byproducts of gasoline are nasty, but only in a cumulative sense. A few hours worth of combustion byproducts won't make a difference in the life of the engine. However, I would worry that a few ounces of ethanol might get a good head start on rotting out some seals and diaphragms and such if left in the carburetor for a year or so.
@@girouxcampingadventures interesting. youtube thinks technical info is spam. I know it's blocked because it doesn't show up when I read the comments on another account. However the comment count confirms it is still there. and I still see my blocked comment from this account. oh well. I sent you a text message instead. Make sure you have spam filtering turned off in your smartphone's text message interface. : -)
nice video what is the exaust is when you use propane ? just air ? can it run inside ? , comparing the gas and the propane is it the same consumption ?
Deathly if inside. You definitely do NOT want to run your generator inside no matter what the fuel source is. Propane smells less than gasoline but the exhaust will still slowly kill you if inside.
@@girouxcampingadventures got you , what is the advantage of running it on propane ? Is it cheaper ? How long a tank like that last compare to the gas tank ?
@@girouxcampingadventures wow 15 hours for 2000 Watts of course it depend on the capacity of the generator and the motor driving the generator but if i want to know for my 15 kw generator then it will be 2 hours aprox
The Grenergy kit looks like the one to get. The Hutch Mountain conversion kit uses a 3D printed plastic vent...whereas the Grenergy kit uses the CNC machined aluminum venturi as seen here. I would *not* trust that plastic vent from the Hutch kit. Still not sure all of this is worth it either way, considering that Champion dual-fuel models exist. You're already paying triple for a Honda, plus then $400 for the Grenergy kit...
I did it for the fun challenge. Those prebuilt dual fuel models look nice though. However I like the 120cc engine displacement available in the Honda EU2200I compared to the average 80cc you get from other generators this size.
Each converted generator will need its own tank. Therefore a parallel setup using two generators to combine amperage/wattage would require two tanks. One propane tank per converted generator. I only have one so I can’t test either theory. I would guess if you had a splitter it might work? However the gas psi, splitter, and cable would need to not interfere with the Grenergy kit expected flow. I’ll let the Grenergy team answer in more detail. I will say two tanks.
Price on website. Shows $279 right now. - grenergy-us.com/collections/eu2000i-and-eu2200i-tri-fuel-conversion-kit/products/eu2200i-propane-natural-gas-gasoline-tri-fuel-conversion-kit-for-honda-generator-inverter
Great video - I'm ready to try it myself now. I want to run it on low pressure natural gas. Am I correct that the generator pulls in the gas through a vacuum? I don't need a minimum pressure to push the gas through, right?
I’m not quite sure. Let me dig through the manual. I have not operated with natural gas yet. I asked the Grenergy team to respond to this question too. Stay tuned…
Hey Brian, our tri-fuel kit is already adjusted for natural gas use. Just change out the supplied natural gas jet orifice and your ready to go provided that you tapped NG from your meter correctly and plumbed the correct size hose directly to the demand regulator. No further modifications or adjustments needed. You can check out our video on our extended hose setup for natural gas. We have everything needed. ----> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_ie37FS_V-o.html
Thank you for making the video, you made it look easy! Will the Grenergy run off an existing low pressure quick connect that is built into the camper and regulated by the regulator that is already connected to the trailer propane bottles?
I will only quote the manual book which at high level...looks to be a yes as long as you have something reducing the pressure BEFORE the demand regulator. When in doubt though and when you get your equipment and know exactly the connections, I would reach out to Grenergy support email with all parts listed in line so they can validate! "Your generator comes pre-set from the factory to run from low pressure propane at 7-11" w.c. equivalent to max 1/2psi, also referred to as standard household pressure." "DO NOT connect your generator directly to a propane tank without the proper regulator or to an intermediate 10-15psi regulator often found on large tanks." Later in the manual...other note... "The demand regulator only works under low pressure (11 WC or 1/2 psi). Pressure exceeding this will damage the rubber diaphragm inside the demand regulator and will void your warranty."
For example on my rig...I do not have quick connects for my onboard tanks. If I did...I would check my regulator which looks to be an "Automatic ChangeOver Model 6000". Based on vendor specs online, it says this regulator will "outlet 11wc". Based on the Grenergy requirements...if I had a quick connect on my RV...I could surely hook up my Grenergy kit to my onboard tanks since pressure coming into the Grenergy demand regulator from my rig would be 11wc. But again...check your equipment. I would say (assumptions) most onboard RV regulators take that pressure down to the 11-ish range. Again...check your specs. Email Grenergy. My onboard regulator on the RV...model 6000 manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Propane/Propane%20Auto%20Changeover%20Two-Stage%20Regulator%20Winntec%206020.pdf
Just looked at the Grenergy kit...the low pressure regulator is this... Precimex 5001 www.propane-regulators.com/precimex-5001-single-stage-regulator-w-type-1-connection From Amazon link, looks to be typical low pressure with outlet of 11wc :) www.amazon.com/Single-Mod-5000-Regulator-Device/dp/B01J6DWJZ0 Back to your quick connect question, you could disconnect this low pressure regulator from the demand regulator (they are threaded directly with coupler), add a quick connect, then your hose with quick connect to your RV which now goes to the demand regulator with a quick connect instead of the low pressure (kit included) Precimex 5001. RV quick connect > hose > quick connect > demand regulator > remaining kit as-is > generator But I will always say...double check with Grenergy support please if you plan to do mods. I have not gone down that path yet so I don't have any stories for you...yet.
One note for sure in the manual...the 3ft of hose going from the big demand regulator to the generator... You CANNOT modify that length according to manual.
@@girouxcampingadventures been looking, they do make them, around £500, UK, just got the aivolt 2 weeks ago, if i know about the duel fuel ones, would have got that,
I would contact Grenergy support. Andy is quick to respond. Just explain what you need in terms of replacement parts from the conversion kit. grenergy-us.com/pages/contact-us
Definitely, then you don't need torque specs listed in manuals. Unfortunately I did this on my 12 year old mountain bike when replacing the front fork. I was attaching the last component...the brakes after doing all the rest of the work (a pain). And sure enough, 1 of the 2 bolt threads stripped but I swear it was not me. I barely applied force. Now I'm stuck with brake bads that constantly rub against disk. I'll need to re-thread...or buy a new bike which is also on my list. It rides good enough...gives me "resistance". I adjust the brake component whenever I take hard hits as that's when it's just enough force to move and rub until moved back. Yes, I tried loctite...no difference red and blue.
@@girouxcampingadventures Thank you for the link! I am wondering if somebody had any issues because of these vents. I am currently trying to decide between Grenergy and Hutch Mountain kits. Here is one of Amazon reviews on Grenergy kit I ran across - is it a legit concern? Any thought? "I finally got my generator back from the Honda repair shop $650 later! BUT HERE IS THE BIG ISSUE the technician that repaired my generator said it failed because of the large holes in the side. The large holes redirect air flow from the normal path. And this is what caused the failure. He didn’t feel this would be as much of an issue in cooler areas, but we are in Arizona. So this may not be an issue in cooler parts of the country. He did recommend a Hutch Mountain or Generconect brand conversion kit as they do not have large holes and the many he has installed have never had an issue?"
Grenergy team would need to chime in. Personally when doing my own research years ago for a conversion kit, I asked Grenergy support if they hear about busted Hondas due to conversion. The answer I received led me to purchase a Grenergy kit.
Yes indeed all 3 fuel types. Link to the kit is in description. Here it is again so you can read more about it from the vendor site. grenergy-us.com/collections/eu2000i-and-eu2200i-tri-fuel-conversion-kit/products/eu2200i-propane-natural-gas-gasoline-tri-fuel-conversion-kit-for-honda-generator-inverter
Yes, worked fine for my setup. Though, when I pull out the generator it is for FULL-ON charging and then put away. I don't have it constantly running since I have a big electronics setup.
@@girouxcampingadventures This is the right size generator. A few years ago I bought a Yamaha 7200 for the house which is too large to be mobile (unless you have as fork truck). Last week I bought a 2200i to ride under the bed cover in my truck. My Tacoma had an inverter built in but this Tundra doesn't and I missed that. I used it on the farm quite often. I'll use it more if its in the truck than waiting for the power outages. Thanks for the video.
Kit comes with the spark plug pre-gapped already. Answered in another comment but here it is again. Fuel mixture is harder to ignite with LP/NG then with gasoline. This is the reason for the new plug with gap specifications. It is pre-gapped to .020-.022.
I only have a quick personal load test result on propane...never run gas yet. Manual has some "how long will it run" numbers, but nothing about max power of both fuel types. I did a load test cooking Thanks Giving dinner last year boondocking, microwave, Ninja Foodie running, etc. I pulled out the generator just to play around...and I kept increasing my Victron Multiplus AC current from 10amps up to 18amps. As a result, generator power was at 2000w no issues on propane. But total wattage output is also dependent on altitude and outdoor temperature. Andy from Grenergy might have a better answer as he has tested more. The only numbers I show in the manual is "how long will the tank run" type chart that shows various numbers. 400w (eco on) lasts 28hrs for 20lb tank 800w (eco on) lasts 21 hours 1200w (eco off) lasts 19 hours 1600w (eco off) lasts 14 hours I would say...(no proof other than my few load tests)...that this combination can run the max output of the Honda EU2200 just fine.
According to the Grenergy manual, a 20lb tank can run a 1600w average load for 14 hours. If you have ECO mode enabled and only running an average load of 800w, then you get about 21 hours.
Thx for the watch. For us, we did it to avoid carrying liquid gasoline in tanks. Instead I can rely on propane tanks which we already carry for our portable fire pit and bbq.
@GRENERGY Tri-fuel System Original Issue: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VZjTlUQKVdU.html Fix I came up with: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VZjTlUQKVdU.html I read your explanation on the webpage: whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why However, the argument for the vent is that the engine compartment is not at atmosphere due to the suction created from the engine. However, in the video the engine is at atmosphere with the door off. Also, why are you recommending cutting a hole in the door to increase airflow (Which will also disrupt engine cooling) instead of simply adjusting the low ide when the door is on without venting? Why cut the hole, instead of adjusting for low idle on the demand regulator? P.S. I am not sure what is going on. I tried to post this response several times and it keeps getting removed. I am not sure if it is some kind of automated thing with RU-vid or what.
Thx for the extra info. It's not me blocking...that's for sure. I have only seen 2 comments...your original and then this reply. Also your "fix" video link is the same. Just noticing this now, you didn't install the kit. You have the door open. Why not install properly? I know your answer was directed towards Grenergy so I'll let them reply again. Personally, I have had no issues with the vent holes and generator function. Recent video load test in 4500 feet elevation was great. I would only suggest that you install properly then try the kit again as-is.
@@girouxcampingadventures I didn't want to commit to cutting the case of the unit until I ensured the kit was going to function properly. There is a comment on Amazon that talks about the vent holes preventing proper airflow, causing the motor to overheat. I am an electrical engineer myself and I have been talking to my mechanical engineer buddy. He is telling me that adding the air vents could dramatically effect the airflow inside of the case, causing the engine to overheat. This is where my reservations come from cutting the holes. That is why I am wondering if simply reducing the low idle adjustment can be used instead of cutting holes into the case. This is also probably why the case is pressurized.
@@BKISHDROID ah, that makes sense. I just went for it!!!! But...I guess I bought the generator with the intent of converting it...so no point in going back.
@@BKISHDROIDalso, if you're like me you want to test and get your own proof. But...here's my recent video load testing. Then one from this summer. Sedona load test (4500ft elevation) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PLIj8RglIyI.html Whipped out generator at farm to test more electronics fun! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i0o_9Bk2B-A.html Both times, eco was OFF of course since I knew I wanted to push full load. Good luck in your testing...I'm curious what you find. Since initially...I didn't like the idea of vent holes or cutting. I still don't. But for me it was more of a toy/hobby project since I rely more on the RV electronics instead.
For anyone wondering if the EU2200i propane converted generator will run an air conditioning unit. Please check out our video here ---> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n_qTBbOm_Fo.html
Hey curious how the wattage output difference in this converted Honda EU2200i unit versus one of those other vendors with duel fuel already. Those other boxes like champions or other vendor with duel fuel will have a gas run/peak wattage listed on the side as well as a propane wattage run/peak. The propane number is lower than gas. It sounds like the propane conversion kit for the Honda EU2200i does not lower wattage output capability versus gas at identical conditions, right?
@@girouxcampingadventures Oops Sorry! Didn't see this comment until now. The other brands list them at lower power output to stay within its safety margin. There are two factors on why this is so. 1.) Limitations from the cheap Chinese demand regulator. 2.) No fuel adjustment for 5k feet and above. Meaning no fuel adjustments for the consumers to tinker around with, which considerably reduces product liability. Simply setting a leaner fuel mixture from the factory will compensate for all customers who are 5k feet and above. Why? LP and NG runs hotter when rich, and cooler when lean. Gasoline does the exact opposite. For example, if the propane fuel settings was set perfect at the factory for zero feet above sea level, but the customer lives at 8000ft above sea level where air is much thinner, the engine will run way too rich. This results in hotter engine temps, or worst, the exhaust manifold on the generator gets cherry red. It is much safer across the board to run the engine leaner, all at the cost of reduced power output. Our kit combined with a much more sensitive demand regulator, we're able to match power output with gasoline fuels. And having that fuel adjustment for 5k feet and above makes a huge difference in engine performance. Meaning you don't have to sacrifice power output when running alternative fuels. Which is why it has taken us so long to develop this kit. A lot of trial and error went into problem solving this issue, when the rest of the industry says to its customers "good enough". Yes, that is correct, our kit does not lower power output compared to other duel/tri fuel generators. I have yet to see a customer call or email with concerns about lack of power when running our kits. Hope this answers your question!
Hi, I just received the kit and did the install in the recent month. My only test so far...even as a new generator...was the break-in period of 6 hours. During that time as mentioned in the video description notes, I ran my heat gun eventually on high which maxes around 1500w. I didn't notice any issues. But...a true test is to run it with my RV now! My solar setup is pretty cool on my RV. I plan to cheat and don't necessarily need the full wattage output of the motor. I suggest you watch other Grenergy videos that discuss wattage output. Maybe I'll make another video in the future. As for my use case, I have solar with Victron equipment. The Victron Multiplus inverter has a mode called "Hybrid Assist" and can also limit "AC current limit". When I plug in shore power that has less than 30amp (my rig is 30amp) then I can adjust the AC current limit settings in my inverter to something like 10amp or 15amp. At that point, I will NEVER trip my generator or the shore power source. Example: 1. Set inverter AC limit to 10amp 2. Solar and lithium batteries take on AC load 3. If generator is plugged in, inverter caps generator at 10amp, takes a 80% number, and you end up pulling about 1000w or so from shore power (aka generator). I will most likely set my AC current limit on my camping adventures with this Honda generator Grenergy setup to about 12amp. However, keep in mind elevation and temperature outside...all of which reduce generator performance. So...as I go up in altitude or if it's super hot in the summer then I may reduce to 10amp AC current limit on my inverter settings. Altitude - every 1k ft reduce by 3% or so Temperature - every 10 degrees more temp outside reduce by 1% or so
Hi JML, to problem solve the low power output most folks refer to, is to actually bring one of these generators with the kit installed to a engine test facility, bench test it and exactly find out what's going on. What we have found is that without proper fuel adjustment from the demand regulator and reliable vacuum signal from the fuel adapter. You can be too rich or too lean when the engine is on or off load, which can greatly affect engine performance. We do the adjustments and fine tuning to the kit using sensors which are monitored on the computer. This is how we make adjustments accordingly, where other kits have you hand adjust the demand regulator by ear. Due to our testing we have not had customer complaints of loss of power or any performance issues. Please click on the video link here to see our test---> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S8AOrmMnmLU.html
The kit instruction book mentions a smallest tank size due to required energy output and how the compressed liquid propane needs to turn into gas. However, there is nothing in the instruction kit that specifies a max tank. Go as big as you want!!
hello, you can use what ever the largest size propane tank the market offers. But the most common portable tank size will be 100lbs. This size will last you almost a whole week at medium load.
min 6:24 whats the part number for that spacer plate or name, mine is cracked got a used unit would like to change it out, cant find it under spacer plate
I’m not sure. Let me ping Andy to reply here. You can also reach out to their support directly online: grenergy-us.com/pages/contact-us or email: support@grenergy-us.com
@@CarlosDelaoGunEngraver Hi, sounds like you had the plastic fuel adapter from our competitor. We don't just sell only the fuel adapter alone, but we can retro fit your old kit with ours. Please give us a call or email.
When I was putting on the adapter; onto the carburetor; I ruined it. And I can't find ANY one that sells those adapters. UNLESS, you buy the entire kit (which is $300 dollars. Really! Does ANY one know where I can buy that adapter at a reasonable cost? Huh? For the cost should be a low cost. Sure hope so...
To me your video makes no sense. To take a brand new Honda generator, which is by no means the cheapest, and void the warranty is crazy. If you wanted a generator to run on propane, then you buy one that is either multi-fuel or already set up. So to sum it up. You purchased an expensive generator, voided the warranty and spend more money on a conversion kit. What a waste of time. What a waste of money. And you have NO warranty a newly purchased products. You're an absolute genius. You're the perfect example of voodoo economics. 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
@@greggminkoff6733 Now now, we're all adults here and should treat each other as such. If you need warranty you can purchase one from us, and we will take over warranty coverage. We have had a few handful of customers buy the warranty and never needed to use it. We refund the warranty purchase at anytime if the customer decides they never needed it. All other portable generators that are sold with dual or tri fuel from factory are all made from 2-3 Chinese factories with engines cloned from Honda and Yamaha. They are built cheaply with cost first and reliably second. And that includes the LP/NG parts made to run on those generators. Giroux Camping Adv has ran our kit for over a year and never had any issues, nor have our customers that first purchased from us when we started 3 years ago. If there were issues and Mr. Giroux was not happy, I'm sure he would have taken this video down long ago.
I agree, that I wouldn't want to mess with the orginal Honda Warranty. I don't see anywhere on the GREnergy site, that you can purchase any warranty that would replace your Honda Warranty. Even if they did, it would be an extra purchase to replace a warranty that you already have free with Honda. And I cant imagine a better warranty than Honda. And I wouldn't want to mess with doing anything that could be used as an excuse to not honor that warranty. Also, I see that you can purchase an original cover, but its not cheap, and it was hard to find. If your worried about that, you can purchase side panels with the vents already installed from GREnergy for $25. Though it wont replace the hole in the top of the case where the Propane hose goes to. I would only consider doing this after my original Honda warranty expired. This guy started tearing apart and drilling holes in a brand new very expensive Honda Generator that he never even ran before. What if for any reason, there were any problems with the generator prior to installing this kit. How could he expect Honda to honor the warranty. How would he even know if the problems existed prior to, or after installing this kit? I would think you would want to know if the thing even runs out of the box, before doing this. The reason people don't buy another cheaper generator brand that already has propane, is because most of them on the market are crap. Its the reliability, performance, and quality of the Honda Generators that make people want to install this kit. And installing a kit to do this is your ONLY option today. That said, this is great instructional video for when you are ready to add propane to your Honda Generator.
Why? Works great for me so far. Honestly though my only downside when doing it...keep it mind it was a project and not for the actual need...I didn't care for the holes in the casing. However you can simply order new sides if you ever need to "reset" the setup back to factory.
