So I am the type of person that will watch at least 5 videos before even doing a simple task just to be safe, and I have to say yours is so great with amazing tips. Thank You!
Again your videos are awesome. I removed my wheels, changed my tires, and remounted my wheels thanks to your videos. You've saved me at least $300 and I'm just getting started with my NC700x.
You made that look easy. At first I thought you didn't show unbolting the caliper... then during reassembly I understood how the axle holds the whole assembly. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the video! I just got a flat tire outside of town and left my bike at a gas station while I take the wheel to the shop. Certainly cheaper than towing it. You're a life saver!
Simply done and a very informative video. Great idea using tape to hold in the adjusters. I never thought of that, great idea. Thanks for posting this well done video. Barry
Just bought one, thanks for the video, first chain bike, never knew about cush drive rubbers , the bike rides wonderfully, slowly warming up to a chain
Hi Adrian - thank you so much for your really helpful videos. I know that this is 2 years old but I used it today to help me. I had a puncture on the rear wheel of my new bike and the bike shop demanded that I remove the wheel if I needed an immediate repair. I did it!! However, I have one or two minor observations. When I tried to get the wheel back on the bike (on my own) I had to undo the nuts on the adjusters - this made things a lot easier for me. I also noticed that the 'axle' was totally dry - not a drop of grease (on my very new bike). As you might have gathered, I am not very good at this sort of thing! Anyway, thank you again and keep it coming.
Thanks mate. There is a bit of “skill” involved in installing the wheel without changing the chain adjusters. I’ve been doing it so many times I didn’t consider this in the video. Dry axle is “normal” unfortunately. There are many parts that have minimal to no lube when assembled.
Congratulations on the video. This is exactly how it is done on this Honda model and on the Integra as well. Few motorcyclists and service mechanics follow these rules... Which is bad... So it's best to maintain your motorcycle yourself. Congratulations!
Heh, i too just installed a new rear Shinko 705 tire today! I also adjusted/aligned the chain, changed the oil T6, installed an SAE outlet and 2 Freeway Blaster 130db horns! Then went for a nice little scenic Fall Foliage ride to scrub the new tire in. I have a local mom-pop tire shop that allows me to use their automotive tire machine to change my own tires. This is the second 705 i've ran now that required NO weights to balance out. I was able to get just over 9k miles out of the last one. :{)
Thanks for this. My '15 nc700xd reassembly was not as smooth as yours. Had to pull rear brake caliper off, refit wheel then reassemble rear brake. The emergency brake fitment was cake.
Your videos are greatly appreciated but it would help to see the details of assembly such as which spacer goes on which side. The obvious issue is that I failed to note that when I disassembled.
And another NC750 with Shinko 705... That's def. my next tire, if I find it anywhere in Serbia. Thanks for the video, hope you'll inform us of Shinko's difference to PR4. Cheers!
After watching your video I’ve decided to change my rear tire today. Unfortunately it was a pain in the a.. to reinstall the wheel since I have a DCT version which has a handbrake. So I wasn‘t able to move the brake cylinder aside and somehow it got stuck during reinstallation. Maybe you could mention that the wheel changes on DCT bikes are a bit more tricky. Thanks anyways for your great videos 😀
Nice job - which is a touch more complicated when working on a DCT version of the bike 'cos in the absence of a gear pedal - there's a parking brake caliper unit to dismount and remount.
Hopefully you see this! I ride a 2013 NC700X, I know it's not the exact same model but the chassis and design is the same. I followed your guide to remove the rear wheel and reinstall it after new tires were mounted but now there is a clicking sound in my chain. The bike only has 6800 miles so I doubt it's anything failing, especially given it was working fine before. PLEASE HELP!
I WAS LUCKY I FOUND A PNUEMATIC CAR TIRE CHANGING MACHINE AT THE LOCAL DUMP AND CONVERTED IT FOR CYCLE TIRES.. ITS ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR BREAKING THE BEAD...BUT STILL A LOT OF WORK TO DO ALONE..
Hi There: Question. I just watched your video where you removed your rear wheel to have a new tire installed. You purchased Shinko 705. I would like the same. However, spec size for the NC 705 is 160/60. The 705 doesn’t come in that size. Did you by chance purchase 170/60 with a higher (W)? Any issues? Brad
Tried a 170 but that is too wide. (See my vid on tyre size) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Le54XI9mMcI.html The 150/70 was what I went with. Went thru a couple of these with no problems.
Nice and simple, though presumably the tape is to prevent damage to the bike from your big wrench, which could be avoided by using a socket. You do know that bolt should be torqued to 98 Nm, which is very tight indeed. It's worth investing a few pounds in a torque wrench to avoid over or under tightening nuts and bolts. I particularly liked your technique for lifting the wheel in to place. Nice job. Was that Moly grease you were using?
Tape is to keep the adjusters in place. Big wrench goes the job nicely. Torque wrenches are overrated. I have one but only use it on head bolts or similar critical bolts. Bearing grease. And .... never take advise you see on RU-vid as you never know if they are idiots like me or real professionals. 😁
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff horses for courses, but I would suggest the rear axle but is most definitely a ‘critical’ point. I did take a deep intake of breath when I saw you do this free hand. However, that all said, I have bike mates who would agree wholeheartedly with you on this point.
Thanks for the tape trick…much easier than the documented process in the manual, where as I was worried about aligning the chain adjustments. Two extra bolts on the DCT version for the parking brake is the only note I’d add. I’m putting 170 anakee adventures on my ‘20 for the boring forest roads in California.
Thanks mate. As for 170 ... note that this gives you LESS contact patch, as the tyre is squeezed narrower to fit the rim. If Forest roads are your thing, I’d recommend 150 profile.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks for the recommendation. Please keep the maint videos coming; I for one get a lot out of watching a procedure compared to reading the manual.
Ok I've watched this over and over to see how do you manage to know that the wheel is aligned forward? Pushing it forwards against the adjusters - would that be enough? The reason I'm asking is I adjusted my chain and made sure that I do the same amount each side and now riding it there is always the one piece of road coming off the highway where I could let go of the steering wheel and now the bike steers to the right. I can shift a bit over to the left to compensate but its not how it used to be. Any ideas?
SteveLookAtHer FN - yes it is. The caliper is inside the rim. If you don’t remove it, you won’t be able to remove the wheel as the inside of the rim will hit the caliper.
My chain is where I want it to be I’m going to get new tires put on today so if I put that duck tape over the back does that mean I don’t need to touch those bolts at all I can just get the new tires put on and put everything back together
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff If it were my bike i would definitely recheck the chain tension after replacing the tire or anytime i remove the wheel. Chains do wear and can become slack between tire changes and the alignment can be slightly off. If that happens, it can lead to premature sprocket and chain wear. It's a very simple check to make. Also when reassembling the wheel-its a good idea to make sure the chain adjustment blocks are tight against the adjusters.
Just wondering what kind of exhaust are you using... I want to change mine. Can you please recommend one for me? A very nice and loud exhaust. Thank you.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thank you. A video on how to change a front brake lever would be well appreciated if you can make it. A city bus broke my front brake lever yesterday.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Please what is the size of the exhaust that comes with NC750x? I want to change my exhaust. I saw this fine exhaust online which is 51mm , just hoping it will size the nc750x.
@Author: Sorry, I didn't catch the comment when you said "the viewers are saying you didn't put on the .. spacers back in?". Was there a missed step?, What was it? Thank you!
Hi Just I bought a aftermarket muffler for my NC, but when I looked at in Internet people saying damaging engine, so I don't know what to do send it back or use it. what's your advice mate?
Ignore them. A muffler has no effect on the engine as it is beyond both the O2 sensor and the catalytic converter. So put it on and enjoy the sound. I’ve been running my GPR muffler for 80,000km to date.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks for reply, I made my bike ready for a long trip ( from uk to Africa and then Middle East and then back to eroup) your videos really helpful for me. Thanks mate
Standard pressures for paved road - 36, 42 psi. On long unpaved road I dropped the pressure front and rear by 8psi. But with alloy rims there is always a risk of buckling a rim if you drop pressures.
Tape on the adjusters!! I used wiggling, swearing and more wiggling when I removed my wheel. I reckon I'll use tape the next time so I don't offend the sensibilities of my neighbours. Lol
Mike K - ideally, I would stick with the standard 160. As Shinko don’t make one I randomly went with the 170. I haven’t tried a 150 so cannot say which is best. The 170 feels fine though.
Mike K - every tyre model feels different from another so it’s hard to tell. But I’m current on a 6 day ride through very twisty fast bitumen roads and it’s performing well. If I had to judge I’d say the turn in is not as neutral as the previous mitchelin PR4. But the Shinko is a road / dirt tyre so I would not expect it to be as good, regardless of tyre width.
Mariusz Mariuszewski - it’s a 90/10 on/off-road. It will handle gravel better than the pure road tyre. And I don’t mind the small sacrifice of road grip.
Yes is manual. The DCT for the NC was never offered in Oz. I have ridden a DCT (not an NC though) but it’s not for me. DCT would be brilliant if commuting in traffic. But I only ride for pleasure so the closer to a “pure motorcycle” the better for me. I want to ride a mechanical machine not a computer. So stuff like riding modes, traction control, and even quick shifters etc leaves me cold.
22 to 32 seconds in " ..Um...they SHOULD be pretty damn tight. No insult meant, but these are axle nuts...not an engine oil drain plug where as 16ft pounds of torque or less is all that is needed on covering most motorcycles. Those axle nuts should be torqued on at between 75 and 120 pounds depending on the individual make and model and trim of the bike.
Motoryzen - thanks for the scientific / engineering solution. Appreciated. But ... I’ve owned 35 bikes since the mid 60’s, maintained all of them and never had an axle but come loose. So I mush have a 75-120 lb torque arm!
Wstyd to tak kaleczyć język polski. Autor, jak wielokrotnie podkreśla, nie jest profesjonalistą i robi dla siebie, dlatego może działać nieprofesjonalnie. Jest świadomy, że powinien być może użyć do odkręcania odpowiedniej nasadki i dokręcać kluczem dynamometrycznym. Tłumaczy też dwukrotnie dlaczego tego nie robi. Nie ma co się spinać.
@@leszektalar5200 Tak napisałem, żeby było delikatnie nie e dobitnie. Bo teraz można kupić dobre klucze różnego rodzaju za niewielkie pieniądze. Kiedyś bym to zrozumiał bo był problem, nic nie było ale teraz? Nie kompromitujcie się. Nie róbcie biedy....
I do not try to deny your skills. I am sure that You are more than capable to remove the wheel. My point is that some viewers after watching this have bad idea of using hammers chisels and adjustable spanners on far more complicated repairs like fork rebuilds or head gaskets. Thats what I have learned from my experience. Have seen some badly maintained bikes in my workshop.
i didnt have 27 mm socket for the right rear axle nut, so i used an adjustable spanner, yes you need to torque it a lot ,but the nut is so big, it doesnt strip
