Over two years ago and this video is still helping folks - thank you! I used zip ties rather than electrical wire and it works perfect. A few months ago I replaced all the rollers in both doors of 2010 model and everything was working perfect until this piece failed. I was afraid one of the cables had snapped or the electric door lock had failed. I could not even get the door opened with the "emergency mode". So pleased it was such an easy fix thanks to DIY With Indi. Five Stars!
That part has two functions: 1: a spring loaded piston to open the fuel door 2: when the piston is depressed it enables the door to open. Our problem was that the piston (plastic of course) was broken so not only did the fuel door not open, neither did the sliding door. The. video at 3:00 minutes, it shows how to access the back of the fuel door, 8:00 minutes to remove the speake. I twisted and removed that sensor easily. I took a coil spring and screwed it into the opening so the fuel door would open when released. Regarding the piston, I took some heavy gauge insulated wire to depress all the way and noticed that I saw the insulation from the side opening (video 8:15). I inserted another small piece of wire in from the side to keep the switch engaged. Ok, that disabled the safety feature preventing the door from opening while refueling. However it saved $60 in parts and 2+ hours to disassemble the car to properly install.
Use zip ties to hold the cable to the black plastic piece. One tie around the cable, 1 around the plastic piece, then use 2 or 3 ties to cinch the cable to the plastic piece. If it fails it fails safe so no biggie. Im doing this to a second Odyssey as we speak. Also blob some synthetic brake grease into your door slide rails top and bottom, it'll save your rollers from going square and causing a bigger headache than this switch.
My wife loves you! I'm pretty happy with you myself, but I'm not ready to pick out curtains or anything. Anyway, I used 12" of house wire with 2 full wraps at the broken base, after which I crossed the wires over the top of the flanges, and then I crossed them down over the back and hooked them under the flanges. Hopefully that will hold for the lifetime of the van. Thank you very much for sharing your method and results!
This Guy is amazing Seriously thank you for your knowledge. I am very thankful for RU-vidrs like you that spread the word and try to help others. We had a very hard time getting screws off of the speakers. But after that part it was a breeze and it was just as you described. We fixed it just as you did with some wire and did a few test runs and it now locks unlocks and works like a charm. And cost us nothing . I have subscribed to your channel
I have the same issue but now with COVID over the $30 part is available even through Amazon. Fingers crossed this is all the problem is and not the cables also. Thx for the video!
Hello! Thank you so much for this video. This was my exact problem! My friend 3d printed a part that fits over the whole thing, cable and all, and holds everything where it's supposed to be. If you'd be interested, I could send you one for free if you wanted to make another video. Then we could sell them to your viewers and you could make a percentage as well! Let me know.
We fixed it with JB weld and two weeks later I got gas had to pop open the gas door and and close it now the door is stuck again and making the beeping noise Why is this happening ??
I found that anything that needs curing may not be a good solution for this because the spring will expand it. Try with a thick wire or similar as I have shown and it should work. My fix is working without issues.
If it beeps when you try to open, you may try to reset the door sequence by holding both the buttons on the remote until they close, or by pulling the fuse #13 under the passenger glove box (older models). If it is not beeping, you may have worn out rollers or bad motor. Check the rollers by trying to lift the door when open. If you can move the door upwards, you have bad rollers.
