Also, leaving on clip in the piston allows you to seat the wrist pin in fully and then you only have to install on clip after the wrist pin installed. Putting rags into the crankcase also leaves you room for error should you lose the clip on installation. Great video sir!
Curious about the piston to cylinder clearance. I watched your video and didn't hear it mentioned, but maybe I missed it. I'm currently rebuilding a '93 XR650L and bought a new cylinder from Webike and the same piston kit in your description. I am wondering if it's worth measuring the clearance.
Wow this is looking good. You had no problem doing it your way. I don't know much about those machines but would it have been easier to remove the engine and do that work on the bench? Great job. I can hardly wait to listen to this machine run. To save you time I could break in the engine for you for a few years then it would be ready for you to ride. Just a thought. Thanks for the video's.
Boy, I hate to be that guy, but you should always use 3 steps when torquing cylinder and head bolts. In other words, start with say 25ftlbs and torque each bolt. Then 30ftlbs for each, then 36ftlbs for the final on the cylinder bolts. Not trying to be picky. Not at all. But this allows the cylinder to seat evenly up to the specified torque. Same with the head bolts. Again, great tutorial sir!
The xr650L in general.. my 04 has 21k.. lived in Phoenix its entire life. Mainly rode on the blm land just west of Lake pleasant. And up to crown king..
