Hoover PowerScrub repair 

LITHIUM grease is THE answer. It's been ~4 years since I first used the Lithium grease. I'm back because I forgot the take apart method and my brushes were stuck again. Once every 4 years I can live with. Taking it apart every time was crazy but that was what I was doing even with using WD.

Thank you, this was a really helpful video, but this bearing may be why this repair didn’t work for me. I was so happy to find this video, went through all the steps, everything turning freely, but when I put it all back together, it didn’t spin. I went back in twice, even sprayed white lithium grease around the spindle. Didn’t think of the bearing. I may go back in again now. You also need to make sure that the quick clean/deep clean dial is oriented correctly or it won’t turn once it’s back together.

Hi Jim. Did you have to replace the bearing(s)?

MEEEE TOOOOO!!! Everything is here

If it is really seized up, you can try a rust remover, or solvent to try and clear it away and get it going, however, if it is too badly damaged, you may need to replace the part # 440003860

That's what worked for me!

The plastic does become brittle over time, particularly around the rust areas and the underside of the cleaner. not sure why this happens, but some consistent patterns have been from people who leave the cleaner in colder basements & closets. It's possible that the housing material was not tested to be stored in certain climates, or maybe it could be related to the quality of water used, as some homes have harder water, which DOES affect the plastic. Plastics and physics are not my area of expertise, unfortunately.

What would you think the problem is if my brushes and hex bolt moves freely if I manually turn it, but the brushes still will not turn when I turn the machine on, and it smells like it's burning? You think it still might be the bearings?

@@slomotion1028 the shaft and bearings were rusted very badly in mine. You have to open it up and just be patient to follow all instructions.

Do you know which part you bought? All turbines I see are much more expensive. Thanks

As stated in a previous post, using a Hex hey "may" work, but be very careful. the gears are plastic, as shown in the video. Forcing them if the bearing is to rusted or seized WILL cause damage to the gear teeth resulting in more costly repairs. Using a hex key or Allen wrench is NOT a recommended method.

How often did you spray and would it better if i put a fan on the bottom of the vacuum after using so it can dry the bottom of the vacuum

@@nonenone4078 Putting a fan on the bottom of the unit has no effect. The air driven motor is mainly enclosed and a fan would not provide enough air. Also, moving air would just contribute to the corrosion. The metal parts must be coated in a lubricant to protect them from moisture AND air. If using Lithium grease, you might only have to apply it once. Regular WD40 I'd be applying once every 6 months to a year, depending on how frequently the machine was used. However, the first time I applied Lithium grease is the ONLY time I've had to apply it. I gave the shaft a good bath in the grease before closing the cover, and I've checked twice in 2 years, and the unit STILL has not required re-application.

It's possible that the bearing may be nearing end of usability. Sometimes adding a little grease or lubricant can help extend the life. Again, the reason for the seizing is due to rust.

I used lithium grease as well. Hoping that will keep everything turning.

Stephen, see my comment above. If the bearing itself is rusted and frozen you may not be able to fix the problem.

Stephen King I also had a hard time to get the bearing off. I used a hammer to hit the bearing (downward) for about 10 times to get it loose.

It's not so much the build quality, but how they are designed. More specifically, the brushes. Hoover has round vertical scrub brushes that move as a horizontal clockwork gear. Bissell usually has 2 horizontal brush rods (similar to what you might find on a vacuum) that are belt driven (I think only a few models are gear driven). Eureka also has a horizontal rod brush that is belt driven, but usually is only a single brush, unlike most of Bissell's that have 2. Gear driven brushes are usually preferred as they tend to have more power. Some of the belts for Bissell even have teeth, since some models the belt would slip if liquid made it on the belt. Some people like Bissell and Eureka because of the horizontal brush making level and even scrubbing. The horizontal brushes have been known to pull up on thicker carpet, and are much tougher to pull hair and string off, as it winds around the brush. People like Hoover because it's easy to clean out the brush, seems to focus or spot clean easier with the brushes. However, the better models tend to be quite pricey, otherwise you have air driven motors, like the one in the video, to reduce the cost. Going a little higher in cost are the Rug Doctor cleaners which use straight brushes that oscillate side to side, or forward and back, to do the scrubbing (There are a few models that do have the horizontal rod.) These straight brushes scrub similarly to the Hoover, but are level like a horizontal rod. Rug Doctors seem to do really well with lightly soiled trip resistant or tiled carpet that isn't very thick or shaggy, or may not require padding (similar to carpet in most workplaces and offices). In many cases like this, it's not even a contest that Rug Doctor would win. However, most home carpets I see have thick padding, might be shaggier, and the Rug Doctor does NOT do well with these. Semi shaggy carpet, you'll want to use the Hoover or Bissell. The shaggier the carpet, and the Hoover does the better cleaning.

I had different music, originally. RU-vid marked the music as protected, even though what I was using was not. The other video is available on youtube, with removed audio, if you like.

I have a power scrub to but mine is leaking where the solution tank is n can't figure out how to fix

Leaks can be tough to find. I've tried the "tire leak" method a few times and have found it to work. However, make sure you clear the lines with clean water for a few minutes one you find your leak. The tire method is where blend 1tbsp of dish soap with 2cups water. Then run the solution through the line. The leak should bubble out. Most of the time the holes are found either at the connecting points or at bending points. In some cases, I just replaced the hoses altogether. Sad truth.

Doramius My issue is with the scrubber attachment tool. It won't spin at all. It feels like it's locked. No movement at all. I took apart part to see motor. It looks similar to the larger one in your video, just smaller of course. It has lubricant all over it (from manufacturer), and it is not rusted at all. I tried to turn with vice clip. Nothing. It won't budge. Seems locked. Any advice? I can't find sales receipt, so Hoover will not replace. Also I live on Maui and there are no Hoover mfg stores to purchase a replacement part. Help :)

I hope I read what you're saying correctly. The scrubber brush snaps directly to the motor driven gears once assembled. If you removed the scrubber brushes and they don't turn freely, then the brushes have another issue that needs to be looked at or replaced altogether (See 1:08 ). If they move freely and you get to the motor and you see the grease, but it is still seized and unable to break loose, the motor itself may need to be replaced. Overall, the cleaner is good, but the build of the air driven motor is the most disappointing piece of the whole design.

I don't know of any Bissell's with the same model & name. Also Bissell's mostly use horizontal laid roller brushes. Hoover's usually have the circular geared scrub brushes as shown in the video.

I do also have a version on youtube without audio. I didn't have any professional video equipment to shoot the video, and I held the camera in one hand while taking the whole thing apart and putting it together again.

@@Doramius Still was VERY helpful, was not trying to bash on it, but just constructive critisicms...!

Check to make sure none of the parts are damaged. I had someone who followed the instructions, but the hex drive on the brush assembly was rounded on the edges. Their issue was not so much a rusted motor, but something caught in the gears. Each step allows you to also view and identify if any part of the brush motor assembly is having an issue.

Hopefully it's just a loose hose or possibly a small hole in a hose. this can be a tricky repair, and if possible, take to a professional to look at. The hose is often easy to seal with a silicon glue at the connection points, or replace if it's the hose itself. You may also want to check rubber seals around the reservoir. However, if you have cracked housing in the main unit, you might need to get a new vac.

As you see in the instructional steps, there are plastic gears that connect to the seized shaft. It is NOT recommended to use a hex wrench to force it free, as it can strip the teeth and cause more costly damage.

Once all put back together, make sure the brushes can be manually turned. You should be able to feel a little drag letting you know that they are in contact with the motor. if there is no drag, you may need to make sure your gears are lined up. Also make sure the teeth on the gears are not worn or damaged.

It's a good suggestion. I use a plastic wide bristled comb, as wire brushes tend to shred or pull out the nylon brush fibers.

Sounds like a gear(s) might have worn teeth. It could be the gears in the brush assembly itself, or in the motor unit. I have seen where the teeth on the transition gear have been worn away over time, especially if the unit is used frequently in very shaggy carpet. If you have to replace either of the plastic gears in the motor assembly, ALWAYS REPLACE BOTH!! If it's the brush assembly, you'll have to order the full brush assembly.

Overall, be aware of possibly voiding any warranties by opening the unit. However, I haven't seen or heard of any such issues. Take it as a word of caution. Adding Lithium Grease should be to the shaft and gears. Step 13.

Also, I couldn’t get the bearing off. Got it to spin though with some wd40. Not sure how much force it should take to spin. Mine definitely takes some umph to get it to spin but at least it’s not seized anymore.

If you made it to Step 22 and everything else was turning and moving smoothly, the problem may be the brush assembly, itself. You'll need to make sure there aren't carpet fibers in the gears, and that the gears do not have damaged teeth. As long as the motor assembly moves freely, the main unit is fine. If the Brush assembly is damaged, you may need to replace the brush assembly.

If there's ever a burning smell or smoke present, you should take it in for service. There could be a leak, or something happening with the motor.

Again, I prefer Lithium grease as it seems to prevent moisture corrosion a little better. I know WD-40 also makes a lithium grease. Regular WD-40 will work, but tends to need to be reapplied after extended use of the Hoover. I've used Wurth on car parts, but haven't ever used it in the Hoover. I don't know if it'll affect the plastics, though, so be cautious. Wurth is usually for metal on metal lubrication with heat and/or pressure.

Make sure the tank is firmly in place, and that none of the hoses are pinched. I have had where someone left undiluted cleaner in the solution side and it dried out in the tube creating a thick barrier that wouldn't let liquid through. I was able to squeeze the blockage and get it to move through the tube, but it was too much for the nozzle and had to splice the tube to clear it. Check that there are no kinks in the tube and that there are no blockages.