7:20 on, you made several mistakes which are confusing to someone who has not reloaded. You were supposed to back out the bullet seating component, not back off the crimp... 1. set die to remove expansion to mouth (bottom part of die) 2. set bullet depth with seating component (top part of die) 3. back off (2.) above, which is the bullet seating depth 4. Now set crimp (bottom part of die) 5. Use calipers to measure crimp vs case, make adjustments to bottom part of die (note, top part seating is still backed out) 6. When desired crimp set, NOW return to top part of die and bring seating depth back down to touch bullet 7. Measure everything with calipers 8. Lock everything down 9. Make 3 rounds and measure everything again. 10. Done
Great video. I appreciate the fact that you were straightforward and explained everything without over complicating things. I am new to reloading and I have the Hornady L n L set so your video is excellent for me. Thanks again for a great video and God bless.
I'm so glad you didn't knock the primer out on the first go! I went in search of this film when I did the exact same thing with MY Hornady die (THE EXACT SAME ONE YOU HAVE HERE) on .45acp... I have been reloading with my RCBS die in .30-06 for a while now and when that happened this time around with the 45's, I kinda went nutty! Nice vid, man!
@otmncgm Right... the die depth is set so we don't crush the case. The screw on the top allows us to seat the bullet at a particular depth. You will have to seat HP bullets differently than round nose just because they are different lengths.
I follow u because u explain it perfectly,not all this bull shit about head space ,or 2 grains make it travel 1 cm up...simple thx.what other calibers do u have?7.76x39 6.5 creedmoor
The reason hes confused is because you made a mess out of the seating/crimping die setup.At 7:20 you were supposed to back the die out one turn and then try to seat a bullet to its proper depth using the seat adjuster knob on top.Once you get the depth established you have back the sesting knob off and then go for the crimp adjustment.After the crimp is adjusted you need to screw the seating knob back down against the seated/crimped round. That completes the setup.
HornadyLoader, glad you mentioned that, I was going to. For the folks new to this, once the bullet is set to the correct depth.back up the bullet seating portioon of the die. That way you won't drive the bullet even deeper as you set the crimp. With the bullet seating portion raised way up away from the bullet, you can then screw the whole die lower into the press to get the desired crimp. Once the crimp is as you want it, lock it and then lower the bullet seating portion back until it hits the bullet, lock it and you're set. I have both the Hornady Progressive Press and the smaller Hornady Classic Press and load, 223, 380, 38, 357, 40SW, 44 Spec, 44 Mag, 30-30, 30.06 and 45-70. Not sure that it saves any money, but it sure is fun. And on the 223's you'd better lube them up GOOD (inside and out), or you'll be learning how to remove a stuck case from a die. Still Brando, this was a really nice video.
I'm watching this on my girlfriend's profile and I agree with how you said a picture is worth a thousand words all the words in the fucking instructions don't make sense but somebody showing me something I got that down forever after that appreciate this video cuz I was having trouble with my 45acp expander die I wasn't sure exactly how to do it because I'm new to reloading but after watching this I know exactly what to do thanks brother I reload for my 3030 and Casper Wyoming bullets so it's hella cheap to shoot as opposed to go in and buy in 20 round boxes 3030 for twenty bucks for the cheap stuff and I figured I reload my 45acp to because that's also $20 for 50 Target rounds and $25 for 20 self defense rounds with reloading my 1911 can handle pressure plus rounds which I haven't attempted to do any of those yet but I have Cassie quite a few semi wad-cutters and round ball ammo I don't have a whole point I yet but I'm working there I like the Lee bullet molds they work really good so far for the 30-30 I only have the hundred fifty and 170 grain flat nose molds but when you got the perfect temperature those bullets come out beautiful. My bad didn't mean to go off on random tangent again thanks for the video man I'm glad you explained it and at the same time demonstrated it
I know your Q's old but. MOST dies are universal and have a 7/8" UNC thread if this is the case yes you can use Dillon dies but you will need to put them in a Hornady LNL bushing 1st
So after the crimp is set on the die, can you lock the ring down and have it seat and crimp all in one stroke? I've always had Lee dies but I recently purchased Hornady .380 ACP dies because they were about $20 cheaper than Lee. Thanks alot for the vid.
So you dont use the factory crimp die? I just ordered the lee 4 piece carbide die set which includes the factory crimp die. Guess its just one more extra step. I have the same hornady press you have, getting it set up, nice vid, thanks, it will help me a ton.
Hey Brando, I have a question. Do you know what the extra (solid) rod for the seating die is for in this set? The one that came in the die is hollow in the end to accommodate bullets with round noses, I'm guessing. And I suppose the solid one is for flat nosed bullets. Is this correct? And if not, which one is supposed to do what?
so i may be missing something but with the last die used you can set the die depth as well as the screw part on top of the die. That top part is adjusting what? I guess that is the part that confusing me. Can you help please?
I'm looking to buy the Custom Grade 2 Die set for my .300 Win Mag...I know the seater seats and crimps at the same time, but, I was wondering, Does it crimp on the case mouth, or, on the bullet?...
so it does not crimp and seat at the same time? u have to seat it and then re adjust that die to crimp it? why dont they just include another die to crimp? id rather not be adjusting the die all the time, isnt that the point of the lock and load? im just about to get into reloading... once im in my house (35 days till closing woot)
Measuring the bottom of casing and saying it should be the same as where the bullet is seated is wrong. The bullet, especially lead cast, will make the casing a tad thicker near the case mouth. If you crimp that to make it the same size as the bottom portion of casing, you'll be smashing the bullet.
Brandon. Just got this same setup but when I go to remove my die setup the die(using lee dies) unscrews from the bushing. Only way to remove the bushing is to use a pair of channel locks. Am I turning the bushing to much to lock it into place? I do think I'm turning it all the way until I feel it lock but cannot remove it with just my two fingers on the edge like your doing
Somebody help please :). I followed all the directions for the sizing die and I cannot for the life of me get the case to grow. Like, I measure 2.193 and when I run it through the sizing die, the case length comes out at about the same. Also, some new Winchester brass reads 2.179 and I need to get to over 2.195 in case length, so how it it supposed to jump that much, I am not sure what to do?
Brando, question for you. Do you rather have a single stage Hornady over the Lee progressive,(Pro 1000)..? Im trying to figure out which one I want to buy. I know Hornady are more expensive... It has to have a reason... tks G.
Hello Brazillian Bully, When I inquired about the same issue I was told that it is better to start with the single stage because you learn each individual step. Then, when you decide to go to progressive your understanding of each step makes it easier to set up and make sure that the progression is running properly.
On Rifle Cases "DO NOT FORGET TO PRE LUB YOUR CASES." As the Dies are Non Carbide,? And you will get a Stuck Case.? And most likely have to scrap that Die.? If you can not remove the case,? Without Damaging the Die.? Just a heads up on that.?
