Hot-Dip Galvanizing: Protecting Steel For Generations 

It would blow up

And your loved ones

Um what?

You guys need minimum wage and unions.

That's called a White

SP330Y No, but it's one of the cheapest methods to help prevent rust. It'd rust eventually, after the zinc layer was depleted. It'd take a very long time though, even with not maintenance. Yes, painting over the globalization would further protect the steel from rust. If you're looking for cars that have it, the older Land Rover Series vehicles had galvanized pieces. They weren't entirely galvanized, though.

Thanks for your answer,ive been testing a product outdoors in the rain,water,damp etc for 1 month now and not a single speck of rust,it's called ZG90,it's a cold zinc galvanising paint,it's amazing,i can't get the metal to Rust! I even scratched off some of the paint and the Zinc content is that high,it's still protecting that exposed area,as the Zinc sacrificies itself in order to protect the underlying metal. I'm going to take my vehicle down to bare steel,wipe down then immediately coat it with this product,allow it to dry then overpaint it, should last about 20-30 years if done right :)

SP330Y Aye, anything to help. Ok, nice! Good plan. I'd bet it'd last a very long time of done right. Where I live, cars rust out like chalk in the rain, so it'd be quite useful here.

Cars are a very harsh environment, with heat, moisture, vibration, salt, abrasion... so while galvanizing could help, it won't be invincible.

Przecież samochody zazwyczaj są ocynkowane. Audi, Renault, Peugeot, bmw itp. Są dwustronnie ocynkowane.

Tim, setting up a galvanizing kettle does require specific permits and equipment. It is not something you could do easily or practically on an individual scale. The typical capital investment in a new plant is around $15-20 million.

There are a few factors... one is strength - you have a much broader range of material strengths wben using carbo steel. Other factors can include cost - a 316 stainless frame can be much more expensive than a steel frame which has been galvanised. Stainless is also harder to fabricate (it will warp more when welding). Hope this helps.

@@Cchange4us thanks for the reply, which answers the logic behind choosing carbon steel.

Articles should be allowed to dry before placement in the galvanizing bath. Wet articles should not be placed immediately into the galvanizing kettle because of hazardous splattering of molten zinc resulting from the instantaneous evaporation of the preflux. One of the advantages of using a preflux is that work articles can be dried and held for a period of time (without fear of the product rusting), but care should be taken to not let the material remain dry for longer than necessary. The amount of time you can delay dipping the product in the galvanizing bath will depend on preflux concentration.

thanks for the reply

At our plant we have a two hour limit after parts have been dipped in the zinc.

I'm a kettle man from Olympia Wa. Cheers bro!

How much do you make per hour? Thanks man

Kettle crane op in Oregon, shit sucks in the summer, winter is nice.

Here is our web page on the history of galvanizing: galvanizeit.org/hot-dip-galvanizing/what-is-galvanizing

Actually, we have a number of examples where car enthusiasts have sent their car bodies to be galvanized during the rebuilding phase. Newer car bodies already use galvanized sheet metal to prevent rusting.

Actually, it works very well in wet areas. See the Water and Marine section of our Project Gallery for lots of great examples of the longevity of galvanized steel in wet applications: www.galvanizeit.org/project-gallery/gallery/category/water-marine. Another great example of galvanized steel on a bridge is the Stearns Bayou Bridge: www.galvanizeit.org/project-gallery/gallery/stearns-bayou-bridge. This bridge was galvanized in 1966 and is still in great shape!

let me add one thing please, if the wet area is salty, it may be dangerous to just galvanizing the steel, so it must be painted after galvanization, salt contains chlore,

+KaYoSs 145 I second that one buddy. Also make sure to wear a mask!

I'd have it stripped if possible before, there is a bad symptom of breathing in the fumes of welding on it. but I agree, wear a mask if not possible.

+allmightyjamestown Yeah the symptoms are flu like in nature..I usually clean all joints before welding,main reason being mig and stick process unless using a 6011 rod,welds like crap leaving tons of spatter..Not to mention when it pops hard and sends hot zinc down your neck..look..Best thing is drink plenty of milk after breathing the dust or fumes to stop you from getting galvanize poisoning..Peace!

+davetruther31 nice. Thankx for the tip.

Love your name Jesus is king,today he was reborn again :) EASTER SUNDAY