@@adnanxm See tony heller here on the tube to finds out who is lying. Guess what, it ain't he. Get a mirror and confess, after watching some tony heller channel here. It's not your fault, they just lie to you.
Hi! Nurse here. Those big syringes are for the patients we don't like. The come paired with the bigger needles, too (Serious answer: Some instances require a lot of fluid for stuff, like flushing urinary catheters or NG tubes. It has a statlock on it, so it is technically compatible with IVs, but I rarely if ever see that much fluid given via syringe.)
i used to have one under the counter at the pharmacy for all the addicts who came in and asked for 100cc 12ga syringes (they meant u100 insulin syringes) just so i could have the last laugh
I absolutely love the idea of an affordable, small, and most importantly QUIET air compressor! Even better that it's a fairly simple diy project. I am useless when it comes to working on electronics, but i would actually consider making one of these. With it being so quiet, you could even use a bigger tank, as the capacity of the pump matters less when its so quiet. I wouldn't mind this just always being on in the background
Great job. Only suggestion I can think of is braze on a different fitting for the air filter so you can have a larger opening for "suction air". Should air up faster that way.
You might consider keeping the condenser coil and fan to make dry air. Keeping the reservoir tank dry prevents it rusting out. I think the rectfier makes DC so the pump can be a cheap 12VDC tire inflator pump.
I have my 3.5 hp compressor running straight into a transmission cooler with a fan and shroud. Air goes in at nearly 300 degrees and comes out closer to 90. Then to an auto drain air dryer before going into the main tank. I have another dryer coming out of the tank but it’s never had anything it. Most of the benefit of Nitrogen filled tires is that it doesn’t hold moisture. If the air going in your tires has less moisture your tire pressure will fluctuates less that it would otherwise. Dry air is the best air
@@trahar6257That's a myth, nitrogen can be wet (i.e. a mix of nitrogen and water vapor). The nitrogen used for tire inflation has been dried to remove the water.
@@frostbite1991It quite obviously is not a 12v motor otherwise it would be smoked the first time it was switched on. It is a permanent magnet motor (which requires DC) but is rated for line voltage.
Pretty cool idea. It’s not very portable but if you’ve got a mini compressor for space reasons and you don’t lug it around too often this would be a really kick ass upgrade. At first I was a little apprehensive because I was scared of what would happen if the pressure switch failed but a quick google search seems to indicate that a compressor of that type probably won’t make much over 200 if that so I felt quite a bit better after reading that. Thanks for posting 👍
I built a similar air compressor a few years ago, I needed a ultra quite compressor for airbrushing in the house and off the shelf ultra quite compressors were more than $800. I bought a brand new 2 gallon compressor on sale for $75 to get a known good pressure vessel, pressure switch and safety blow off valve, and slapped on a salvaged fridge compressor and 1 micron micromist oil/water separator from SMC to get the cleanest driest possible air cost less than $160 to build a compressor i cant even hear running from 2 feet away
Use JB Weld around the threads to seal leaking threads, doesn't matter if it's the original or quick weld. Just make sure that it fully cures BEFORE putting any pressure on it!!
If you want some stupidly effective zip-tie cutters, look for the smaller clippers used for pet nail trimming. They have very blunt ends, so you'll never nip anything accidentally, the blades are designed to "scoop" before the snip, and they are incredibly sharp for an effortless action.
@@user-lm9gs5vt1q Because I've used them all. Regular electrician's dikes, smaller true flush cutters, and cat nail trimmers. In the case where you're worried about nicking nearby things, the cat nail clippers work better than the other two. They are a fraction of a second slower to use.
The Freon trademark is not specific to R12, it is for all of their fluorinated hydrocarbons. They also have Suva (and others), and appear to use it interchangeably on DuPont's various websites. They list R-134a as Freon 134a and Suva 134a.
I used one of those self tapping screws...it was the very short 1/2" one...drilled a hole in the bottom to drain the oil, then put 10w-30 motor oil (so later on I can just unscrew that bolt and replace the oil with regularity)...but that harbor freight oil would be much better (non-detergent oil) I put 2oz...or 1/4 cup...those little compressors don't use alot...and will blow it out until it's at the right level oh..another thing...a good 1/4oz of MotorKote will help the compressor on dry starts Very very very cool!
I have the same compressor and a random fridge compressor and sitting in my basement, and these were the exact plans i had for it thanks for giving me inspiration
9:37 Caution! Stuffing a fat wallet in any pocket will eventually mess up your hips and back. Ironically, it's the diagonal opposite area that goes. So, your left rear wallet stuff will result in right hip pain. I was a left front guy and buggered my right sciatic nerve and butt. My dad was a right rear guy and had left hip trouble. His chiropractor clued us in and now I get to tell you. I now mix it up when I have to and carry when I can.
I was under the impression that those compressors were higher pressure, but very slow. Hmm, Maybe I could do this with a slightly larger tank and 2 compressors running in parallel for increased CFM. Love the video. You gained a sub. :)
Find the biggest 120v appliance like an ice machine that pulls as close to 15amps and that should be the biggest rated compressor of this type. I used one from an Ice machine.
@@DimMakTen31 True! But where are you going to find a perfectly good ice machine that nobody wants, just to scavenge a compressor from. Ice machines usually run A LOT!, refrigerators run about 30-50% on-off, but ice runs about 80% on, that is a lot more wear and tear on the valves before the total machine failed. Not impossible, just don't be holding your breath.
@@DimMakTen31 True, The compressor in the OP's project already runs at about 9-10A, and 50A during start, Not a lot of margin for a bigger compressor unless you go with a 20A breaker, wire, and outlet dedicated, as ICE is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit because of the electrical demand. 100% run should only consume 80% of available electrical capacity, preferably less.
That must be the same check valve they put in some of the trailers I pull. Have had many customers ask why there is an alarm going off on the trailer 😂
My first job was in a photo lab back when film was used for pictures. The air compressor in that shop sounded just like this compressor. When I got my compressor many years later I never could figure out how they got that film shop compressor so quiet. Its clearly using this type of setup. They should make all compressors this way.
It's more expensive to manufacture (DIY not included, manufacturers can't reliably scavenge old refrigerators) and more maintenance for the end user. People ending up with Harbor Freight compressors ( 🙋) aren't going out of their way to find high quality tools that cost a bit more.
Those big syringes are used for medical syringe pumps, when you need a slow and steady dose over time. It’s coupled to an iv-line, for example running iv anaesthesia during an operation or epinephrine in the ICU
For my second compressor I bought a larger 20 gal with a belt run pump ($4-500 range, but it had good performance numbers and relatively quiet. Plus I later augmented my fixed air lines with an additional removable tank). I got really annoyed with the water that would come out of the system, more cause I didn’t want it to go into my tires, but also my tools, so I got a cheap (I think it was like $15?) transmission cooler, got the appropriate copper tubing & a decent filter and threw that all between the pump and the tank. Positioned the cooler in front of the belt guard which is in front of the fan that runs off the motor and viola. Pulls lots, dare I say effectively all detectable?, water from the compressed air & cools the charged air down so it’s even denser in the tank. Didn’t take long, wasn’t expensive (most expensive part was the filter/ / air/water separator - scoured eBay for a while looking for a good enough one that was heavily discounted) & keeps my lines & tanks virtually moisture free (some builds up, but only after a lotttt of use). It’s awesome. Always wanted a faster pump without breaking the bank. Will have to check out some fridge compressors - thanks!
Maybe you can keep the condenser and condenser fan from the old fridge. A window AC may work better for this purpose...maybe keep the evaporator as well in series with the condenser and a trap at the end to drain water.
warning get a really good pressure releif valve those fridge compressors go up to 500psi that will blow that tank right up so use a couple of them one on the tank and or one on the valve assembly.. also your going to want to make sure the tube is long going into the tank why fridge compressors are bathed in oil and shoot out oil on the discharge so you might want to use a vaopr canister or oil catch before it goes into the red tank and a way to refill it back into the compressor you can get wisper quiet compressors now anyway california air makes a small one and harbor frieght now makes a really good one its really quiet and no fridge compressor
How many cfm do u get and can it power a paint gun my crafts man barely dose, it can spray for 6 to 10 seconds before having to stop spraying, to alow air to recharge
You said: "The current rating of a conductor is based on it's size AND it's length" That is not exactly true. You'll still heat up the conductor wire the same with the excess current, but there will be somewhat less voltage drop over the length of the conductor. 16 gauge should be good for say 10 Amps though.
Speaking of kaboom, fridge compressors are capable of much higher pressure than a cheap air compressor. Be sure to set the pressure switch accordingly and consider adding a high pressure blowout plug as well.
old video but that rectifier is indeed for the compressor motor, that looks to me like a brushed motor and while they *can* run on AC as seen in so called universal motors of vacuum cleaners and corded drills, theres no stator winding on that one from what i can tell so it only can run off DC (as with a stator magnet the commutator flips the AC rapidly but itll never sync up with a magnet while a stator winding will be in sync as in the stator field is opposing to the rotor field)
why they used that instead of an induction motor i honestly have no clue, perhaps since it has to be so small and also spin really fast, induction motors are big if they need torque, the kinda motor youd see on a furnace blower or large air compressor instead
Just wondering how well this held up. I tried this a long while ago, but it locked up after a few months. I really liked having a small, silent compressor like this, so maybe I'll make another one with a larger compressor.
I wonder how well a window unit compressor would fare. Have a newer HF 3gal pancake that is also ungodly loud and inefficient that i keep in my car and run off an inverter on occasion.
if you run the air through the fridge coils and then the water separator then the tank, you wouldn't have to worry about water accumulation in the tank. you would need a much better separator though
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Not exactly...The system equalizes while the unit is off. Equal pressure on both sides, (inlet vs outlet) is the same as starting at 0 psi. Your unit has a hard start system...2 capacitors, 1-Start, 1-Run and a relay to switch them in and out as needed. Apparently it will start against 80psi if you continue to use the factory pressure switch.. The pressure valves you are referring to simply promote forward progress of the original freon, now compressed air.
If anybody needs more CFM than this will provide, then use an air conditioning compressor. You might even be able to use the housing for a neat package. I would recommend plumbing the air that comes out of the compressor through one of the condensers or evaporators for extra cooling.
Air conditioning compressors are mostly 220v, just as big as a conventional compressor, need a larger tank to be useful and become very immovable by the time you are done.
@@johnrussell6620 that is true that many air conditioners are heavy and require 220 volts. But there are also smaller units that run on 120 volts. I have a 5000 BTU unit that would be perfect for air compressor use.
@@COBARHORSE1 The RST40 in this video has 3500BTU at 20Deg, and probably has 4000-4500 if it was in an A/C running at 40Deg, so your 5000btu A/C would only be 15-25% bigger, counting and comparing BTU's as a common comparison factor. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm saying there is not that much advantage. Why disassemble a perfectly good small window A/C? Why expect a faulty window A/C to function at peak efficiency to deliver more than the OP's 4000-ish BTU's of capacity. on the other hand, rip apart a 12000, or a 15000 BTU 120v 20A A/C and lug that compressor around...
I need that rubber check valve for my own 3 gallon Canadian Tire compressor made by the same company. Mine is malformed and leaks. I looked everywhere for parts but nobody sells it. Can you mail it to me?
The noise on these compressors has always seemed ridiculous to me! Why is every air compressor a huge pain in the ear?! I have access to a supply of refrigeration and even large AC compressors, so I'm totally going to make this upgrade!
@@Rudy97 Let’s say the tire you want to inflate needs more air that the tank can supply. The compressor would restart while still connected to the partly pressurized tire (this actually happened in the video). Another scenario would be if you want to run an air tool. There you want a somewhat constant pressure in the tank so the pump needs to kick in before the air has completely run out. Therefore every commercially available air compressor that uses an induction motor has a device that vents the pressure from the line between the pump and the tank so the motor doesn‘t have to fight the pressure in the tank immediately after restarting.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Not exactly...The system equalizes while the unit is off. Equal pressure on both sides, (inlet vs outlet) is the same as starting at 0 psi. Your experimentation will reveal if it will start against 80psi if you continue to use the factory pressure switch.. The pressure valves you are referring to simply promote forward progress of the original freon, now compressed air.
I don't want to make this weird, but I *REALLY* enjoy your videos. Really great stuff. Can we hang out? FYI, visitation days are Tuesday and Thursday from 10-2.
5x 60ml syringes were used by my nurse to draw blood used for a procedure that required a large amount of my blood plasma, that’s at least one application 🤷
That’s a terrible idea in terms of general usefulness, but a wonderful idea as a stationary compressor with a large tank, lower draw, and low noise is paramount.
At 21:45, you have the start pack laying horizontal, originally it was mounted vertical. The white box relay is sensitive to being "CORRECT SIDE UP". If you take the screw out, you can read the label. I know it has been a year now and the world has not ended, but, It is a precision balanced relay contact that no longer has an accurate reference to earths' gravity. It may function(appear to function) but it is not functioning as it was designed. Remount it to the vertical side to the right of the screen/image. 2 precision holes required to remount and to prevent it from getting cocked to 1 side or the other. Just copy the original holes.
FFL and MFL fittings, also work on Co2 systems for a homebrewer's kegerator. (See if you can guess who used a set of HVAC gauges on his kegerator.) Also, in my old house AC compressor leaked out all its freon. Let's try using R-600 instead of the R-20 in it. You can get BBQ grade R-600 at Home D, in 15 pound refillable bottles. Little over $20. Had to refill about 6 times that summer, but here in Phoenix, we survived. Landlord replaced the AC in the fall, when they were a LOT cheaper. steve
R600 is Isobutane, it is flammable/explosive, do not do this! R-600 is not 'BBQ Gas'! Rechargeable cigarette lighters are R-600....R-290 is propane, propane is "BBQ Gas", do not do this!! it is flammable/explosive, do not do this!. Refrigeration systems that are engineer for and do use R-290 only have 2oz, 3oz max 5oz of refrigerant and if it managed to leak it would only cause a small localized explosion, 5lb of propane leaking could explode your entire house! it is flammable/explosive, do not do this!
Curiously interesting But IMO a KOMPLETE waste of time. Price of ALL the bits 'n pieces coupled with the price of the Original compressor and You Should have bought a larger More capable compressor . And Not have wasted the Time / Work and Effort running around buying the various bits AND Making it all work. As a large ugly Contraption
