The unloader valve has a spring in it that pushes down when its in the run position. So without it your basically in the start position permanently and that’s why it wont build more pressure.
@@gs1100ed I know he thinks that that is cutesie and all that nonsense, but in fact it costs him time which costs him running things he claims he'll sell instead of investing at least part of his financial empire. I mean, maybe do half of it, and the worst you are is half wrong.
mustie, old buddy, your going to have to get a young helper to keep your old back from giving out on you. All us followers need the Sunday shot in the arm from all your great videos. Maybe you could compile a Best of Mustie Series. Take care, Bill
I'd like a whole vid about the IMMENSE parts stash 'ol Mustie has! How on earth did you acquire so much stuff? Is it a generational stash from your dad? How the hell old ARE you?
A friend of mine had an electric air compressor about that same size maybe a little bigger. The electric motor burned out, I took off the motor and compressor because the compressor was slow to build air. I left everything else, plumbed it so he could hook it to his shop air compressor fill it with air and have a portable air tank on wheels. Gave new life to something that would have either been set off in a corner to collect dust or taken to a scrap yard.
There's a bunch of pneumatic controls on that, no electric. There's an unloader valve to help startup, a pneumatic solenoid to rev engine when tank pressure drops, and obviously a regulator for supply, and a pop off valve to keep the tank from blowing up. I'd make damn sure everything is working right before running for very long. These are very serviceable, easy to keep them running forever.
I recently fixed a similar compressor with a smaller 5.5hp Honda. What happened to it was it developed an air leak so it would never reach 120psi and the engine overheated because it was 90 degrees outside that day. The biggest problem with these small Hondas is that the connecting rod is just pure aluminium with no bearing material so the rod seizes when the oil gets to thin from overheating! Bought a new rod for 20$ because the crank was ok after polishing, so its was a cheap fix.
That’s what I was thinking a cheap fix for the engine. The piston is likely perfect, with great compression. Adding a few missing parts and this compressor can live again.
The no bearing material is unfortunately all too common on small engines. As a small engine tech working at a shop I find it rather sad how many people I feel obligated to advise that they replace equipment, especially the cheaper stuff, rather than have it repaired as their cost will be lower in doing so.
@@davidwildridge8080 Mustie very very rarely purchses anything except rebuild kits for the 2 stroke motors he fixes on weedwhackers, at which he is very talented.
@@silasmarner7586 he is great at troubleshooting. I understand on anything used the name of the game is to keep expenses to a minimum whether you are selling or keeping.
I can't believe the good stuff you find "out by the road". I used to pick up lawn mowers and weed wackers but stuff like this is MONEY. You haul some free stuff that is really good salvage stuff.
That engine on your compressor is a standard, off the shelf model. The air control for the throttle is an add on. They are typically a $25 item at some hardware stores. They operate like the pressure switch on an electric compressor motor. The difference is that the engine doesn't cycle on and off, but causes the engine to surge for compressing the air, then when the call for air is fulfilled, it goes back to idle. The Amish in my area have a system for a line shaft driven compressor off of a stationary engine where there's an air cylinder on the base of the compressor, and a spring so that whenever there's a call for air, the cylinder slides the base, tensioning the belt and bringing it to pressure. When the call for pressure is fulfilled, the compressor springs disengage the belt until there's a call for pressure again.
Well now I need to see if those control thingies exist over here, because my petrol compressor (when I get it running) just has a blow off valve, the engine runs full speed all the time. Which annoys me.
@@exasperatedThe unloader control valve in the side of the tank is only part of the system. Mustie is missing the manual control portion of that valve. If the compressor isn't set up for it you won't have the unloader valves to shut off the intake air in the cylinder head(s). You also need the air throttle kicker to push the governor up off idle.
I really would like to see more of this. Maybe dissect the engine and show us all what really failed and then get this back to operating like normal. That would be great to see! 😊
The unloader valve also sets the pressure the compressor can build in the tank, and is adjustable. Air pressure from the unloader valve also keeps the compressor pistons from building any further air pressure when tripped.
Another great mustie 1 video! Keep them coming. Just one small note, 90% of the time the crankshaft ( on Honda GX series are forged steel) are undamaged or worn I very confident that a new connecting rod will make it perfect again. It can be replaced without removing the head, just pull the piston back just far enough to expose the wrist-pin. You can remove the clip and pull out the pin with transmission snap-ring pliers. I have done it more times than I can remember.
You have a talent for finding fixable machines! In my neighborhood, that compressor would be listed as "mint condition" and the seller would be quick to let me know that they need to get at least a few thousand for it - and that it's worth a lot more than that!
Amazing what you find on the side of the road there. I guess folks here in Oklahoma know how to fix things as I’ve never seen anything like what you find!
I got a "new" lawnmower once. Gas in tank looked like orange juice. Been stored for years. But it was new when put away. And yes, was in a affluent neighborhood.
Does not happen in the UK. If it does it is pretty much always fly tipping which is illegal. Also may be a kick back via health and safety law; more's the pity for us machine types.
watching Mustie talking about his rain while it's raining here in Clermont FL is sooo therapeutic, I have decided we need more Sundays in the week so we can have more Mustie"s videos.
I have a very similar emglo compressor that has a k series kohler on it. 4 cyl 2 stage. make sure your pop off and unloader valves are working and not sticky that compressor if the pop off sticks will pressurize well over burst pressure on most tanks. don't want the big kaboom to happen to ya. also mine has a clutch on it so when the engine throttles down it doesn't turn the compressor. not sure if someone might have eliminated it on yours. and you are missing the whole top of the pop off/unloader valve there. the little diagram is showing you the position of the valve handle you are missing. you adjust the valve for your shut off and kick on pressures. when the valve pops off it shoves the throttle to idle and fires the unloader valves that stop the compressor from making pressure so it is not fighting against tank pressure when it trips over to run again when pressure drops. At idle it just freewheels and makes no pressure but as i said your missing the guts of your pop off valve
That second air intake port is loose so you can't detect a vacuum when you block it with your finger. It was most likely sucking in the air at the loose connection. That's my guess as to why you can't feel anything on that side.
I am always amazed at the stuff that you get for free period I live in a relatively affluent area and none of these Snow blowers or lawnmowers or compressor's would be offered with anything, but a 25 or a $50 price on them, no matter what condition they were in.
Same here, wouldn’t give you drink of water much less anything of value but it is mostly poor people around me. The poor people would help a person more than the ones who have money
@@AlfonsoSwearengenthat is not tru. On maui I found a nice pressure wash that started and ran .. even had gas in it..also q big generator that ran no juice but it ran..also in new Mexico someone sat a kawasaki generator with zero wrong with it by the curb and a sign saying free on it .. yes it's tru ..
Just depends where you are. I used to go around with a trailer once a week and come home within a few hours with a full load of "trashed" stuff. I was living in Southern California too.
my dad works as an inspector a place where these compressors are made. The tanks are built on the tolerance of the tolerance to save on costs. The top end of the compressors are basically designed to be mechanically worn out before the tank rusts and becomes dangerous. Unfortunately these things are throw away compressors.
It is my personal philosophy that any machine that uses a Honda GX is worth attempting to fix. That GX is hard to beat and that whole setup is pretty decent quality wise. Just rode hard and put away wet, with minimal care and maintenance. But thats why its got a GX so it will just work for thousands of hours reliably.
Darren, a friend's employees were trying to get their Honda powered pressure washer running, but were unable to. I told them to check the oil level. When they checked it, it was low. After filling it, the were able to get it running. My point is, low oil allerts are made to prevent the engine from starting on low oil, but might not be to shut it down when it leaks out or burns oil. This might be the case on this engine. As for the air leaking from the tank, it seems to me that there is an over pressure device (OPD) that's missing from that check valve.
Honda engines use a internal float switch to detect the oil level. The low oil shutoff works continuously, not just when starting. There are two parts of the system, an oil level sensor inside the engine and a latch module with black and yellow wires screwed to the side of the engine. The sensor is a simple float switch. The yellow wire coming out of the crankcase float is connected to a guided bobber with a pointed contact at the bottom that taps against the metal case as the oil gets low. You might think that yellow wire could directly short out the magneto to shut off the spark, but the magneto outputs a few amps of current and the float switch contact isn't especially good when it's barely bouncing on the case. So there is a "latch" module. That small metal box actually has three contacts, with the case being the third. When the circuit detects a little current flowing through the yellow wire, it triggers the SCR to conduct the bulk of the magneto current for a few seconds through the metal case.
Sunday night in AUS, thank goodness for Mustie, nice work. I wondered if someone was trying to run that engine on 2 stroke mix by mistake.? So much goo in the carby. The compressor will take an air compressor oil, probably a 68 or 46, Castrol’s oil would be AIRCOL PD (for piston type) 46 , 68 etc etc
not that 2 stroke would really hurt it. smoke like mutha, carb get gummy but thats about it. we've had dingbat summer helpers run 50:1 2 stroke thru our generators , Hustler zero turns. a can of seafoam later, youd never know
Hey man great video, check the cost of a new rod they are not that dear, had to replace one in my honda ride on not that long ago. Also as others said unloader valve parts missing and pull the compressor valves and clean the carbon from them, takes very little to stop them from working correctly. Handy unit for the lake or picking up vehicles with flat tyres
I have a Dewalt Wheelbarrow compressor similar to this one, but its the dual tank model. It's all based on pneumatic controls, and the port that is leaking controls the engine speed, just like you thought. The diagram is that missing piece, you set it to start so you're able to pull start it without it reving up on its own. It's also missing the belt cover. Seems like this unit became a parts machine.
Mustie1 thank you for posting this and your earlier videos. They are both informative and fun to watch. Your shop reminds me of mine, full of what others sometimes term as junk. However, if you're trying to jury rig and need a part no longer manufactured its a great resource. Please keep them coming.
What a find, I wish people would leave things like that in the UK. America does seem to have a more hands on approach and more "gas" powered tools. Great vid as always. Thanks Mustie. From Somerset UK.
I love stuff found on the side of the road, always interesting how people either give up trying to fix something, or they don't even try to fix it, because they don't know how. Mustie1 usually can fix anything, that's why i like my sunday morning's watching what comes into the operating table. G-d bless y'all.
Your missing a 125PSI pop off valve with a relief knob. You would stand it straight up to start the engine and then lay it on its side to run and buildup pressure
G'day, Mustie! Nice job! Enjoyed the video! By the way... You have a DeWalt "Model: D55275" Gas Powered Air Compressor, with a Honda Engine 8 HP, 18.3 CFM @ 90 PSI, Max PSI 150 "Auto Idle", and Low Oil Shut Down. One of the components you are missing... As you mentioned, Causing the unloader valve to open and vent the excess air from the compressor to the atmosphere. As the compressed air is used and the pressure drops to the load setting the pilot closes and depressurizes the unloader valve. The unloader valve then closes and the pressure begins to build again and repeats the cycle. If you are interested, they're made by 'Conrader' of Erie, PA. Piloted Unloader valves, the Unload Set Pressure Range: 40 to 250 PSI (Model: BG-Series or RCB-M). Enjoy! Cheers! ❤✌🏻🛠😊 P.S. I hope you'll consider, re-powering (this DeWalt "Model: D55275" Gas Powered Air Compressor). 👍🏼
Thank you for another great video. The unloader/pilot valve (where you were spraying lube on the check ball) is missing all of its guts. Part of this is the toggle that is pictured on the label to the right. This makes it unable to unload the compressor heads. Your compressor is a two head, four cylinder, single stage compressor (maximum 100 to 125PSI rating.) Each head compresses air separately from the other. Each head has its own discharge line, then both lines tie into the common manifold below the compressor. There is a check valve below this (in the tank) that allowed you to back feed the tank through the outlet pressure regulator. The reason you could not pressure the tank past 30PSI, with the compressor, is that one of the inlet valves in the other head is either stuck open by debris or a valve disc could be broken. This lets the air from the working head to escape thru the other head. I learn more from you about small engines every week. Thanks!
Mustie1 the only guy I know that defies gravity. Most people would have pulled the compressor up the ramp. The notch marks showed manufacturing date 2005 (5) and January (A: A to M is 12 letters, so 12 months) Now to watch the rest, as I bought a compressor at an auction so might learn something. 👍🏼 Thank you Darren
I would remove the spark plug and use drill to oil up the engine really good before even trying to start it Do the same thing on all engines i over haul also
I can say for certain that no one here in Germany would throw out a machine like that, or let it get in that condition. This is the result of taking abundance for granted. Hope you get it all sorted out.
Absolutely and the same here in Australia. Americans complain about how much things cost but most have no idea just how cheaply they can buy things. I regularly compare prices and generally prices in Australia are about double what you pay in the US.
Love to see you recondition on the crank bore on the rod.. I had 4 rods reconfirmed for a sunbeam alpine in 1970 on my first engine rebuild. Engine ran great!. Nice video.
I was wondering this. Is it too much effort and cost to rebuild the bottom end to eliminate that knock? Feels well worth it for an 8HP honda compressor.
I just found myself giggling uncontrollably at the sounds the compressor was making around 29:33 onwards, totally nothing to do with it sounding like someone farting into their coffee cup I'm sure... :P
Go online for a trouble shooting plan or better, a new unit diagram. loose parts cause air intake and loss of control pressure. love seeing your diagnogistic procedure. Add a wench or swing arm wench to your truck.
I had a similar save a year ago. I got my hands on a Craftsman compressor from the early 70's that had not run in 20 years. I was not able to find any parts or information about this compressor online at all, but thankfully I was able to get it going like it was, despite the fact that the tank was full of water. It is still running great, so hopefully that will continue. I only even found one example of one that sold in an online estate sale several years ago, so I am guessing that it is extremely rare. I just hope nothing breaks on it.
This guy make sure that nobody else gets anything goes out every damn day and grab everything along the road that’s worth anything to keep anybody else from having it!
Keep that positive attitude, my friend. It's definitely always a winner! Win some and lose some is part of the learning experience that will eventually make us successful.
1:23 you need a truck from the 80s, 70s, 60s, 50s for this. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd. More room in the back for scrap picks, but the best thing about them is they're so much more manageable to load and unload. The tailgate on one will be a good two feet closer to the ground than on your modern taco, which means the angle on those ramps is a lot shallower, which means itt'l be easier on your back to load things into and out of them. My first choice would be a Ford with a 300 and a 4-speed, as I have one and it's been a damn good truck to me. And also gets 20mpg. Your quad cab modern Taco is going to be the death of your spine you keep doing that.
It would have been a lot easier to pull it up, instead of trying to push it. And he has Crusty the truck, that has the fold down sides, about as low as any mini van.
I have this homemade arch thing mounted across the truck bed and an ATV winch that pulls the heavy thing (including little car motors) up and then the cable has a cable clamp that causes the cable to pull the arch into the vehicle and then I reverse the winch to lower the load down onto a tire in the truck bed... getting stuff down a ramp is easy.
Having had an inguinal hernia repaired via open surgery three weeks back... I completely agree! I'm banned from heavy lifting for 8 weeks. I'm still in a lot of pain and healing as I type this!
15:30 I just replaced the carb on my Honda engine DeWalt pressure washer. It was $25 for an entire tune up kit including a coil and plug wire. My problem was not checking the free play of the throttle plate and assembling it with the throttle shut. 2 blisters later and I removed the carb connected the linkage correctly and it fired up on the first pull.
How do you find all this killer stuff there's never anything remotely close to anything worth a damn on the side of the road ever where I live in Washington State
I've been using a found-on- the- curb-while-riding-my-bike air compressor since 2006. It needed a $6 supply gauge from Lowes, which I pointed out to the old owner who pushing it out when I cycled into his cul-de-sac. He replied 'i got a lot bigger one, you can have it " . Rode home and was back with a truck within 30 minutes
Mustie it's called an air governor control system. Designed to allow for a higher demand use. We used to sell them to spray painters which typically use 14 to 20 cfm depending on paint viscosity and fluid tip air cap combination. The check valve is missing the adjustment unit for setting cut in and cut out pressures. The other system is called start/stop, controlled via the pressure switch that starts and stops an electric motor.
