Great tips guys! Just solved this in an issue not getting spark with Holley Terminator on mine. Slow Crank was equivalent to not generating a spark, therefore lack of good grounds. MAKE SURE YOUR GROUNDS ARE GOOD FOLKS! Especially if you have a rear mounted battery and a long time used starter. Be well! STAY FAST.
Good info brother, that's a common problem on an older stang for sure. Andrew was being a n awesome big brother, spending time with his lil sister. 👈💯🔥
Bro. This is spot on. I had to replace my starter on my f250. Just this past Thursday, at a new house build job site. 350k plus miles. Also as I’ve said. You’re videos help me on my bronco. 302/351’s issues are the same on running. Good stuff!! As always. 11-0 let’s gooooooo!!! Beat BAMA!!!!
Upgrade to the later 94-95 starter, don’t forget to run ground from negative post to body, and engine to body also. I just did a video on this myself on a 95 5.0. Grounds fixed several problems!
This actually helps a lot I can’t thank you enough for what you showed. My fox been doing this and I thought it was a ground or starter issue but I would of never thought about the starter getting hot really appreciate it 👍
After doing some reading recently I also came across a post that said if you have done the 3G upgrade you should run a ground cable from the block to the spot on the inner fender where the computer is ground. It’s usually in between the solenoid and batt. I used a 2Gauge wire and it made a difference in my car. I plan to add the extra cable you mentioned as well.
exactly ground was my issue on my 95 gt mustang..i had to find it myself but luckily the car never left me stranded on road..thats what i love about my car ❤👌
😭😭 this car 😂❤ pissing me right off but you have killed it with these videos man. You've helped me put together my basket case, and now you're helping me get it running right😂 thank you man 🤙
Good info. Another tip is to run the same gauge negative wire that's ran from battery to engine(4 gauge or higher) to the chasis(Strut or Firewall) of to the car. The factory 8 gauge that's ran from the battery to the chasis just can't support all the current flow when you add more electrical equipment ie: Stereo, Electrical Fan, Nitrous Selenoids, MSD box
I had this issue with my zephyr got a 410 stroker in here and I changed starters battery cables added ground added heat shield for starter and nothing all it was , was my battery didn’t have enough cranking amps went from a 600 I believe to a 950 and car starts with ease even the one time it overheated after forgetting to connect the fan.... but it cranked no issues so if y’all try all this try the battery!!
another great video...may I add 2 suggestions...? 1.) Battery connections are obvious...but...slightly loosen the terminals @ the solenoid & starter...move them around a bit then retighten...you'd be surprised how many fords have been fixed with this trick... 2.) BATTERY SULFATION...with the battery rested check the specific gravity with a hydrometer...sulfation is the process of lead sulfate crystals building up on battery cell plates...when this happens the battery can not be fully charged...and this can happen when a new battery has been sitting too long on a store's shelf not fully charged. Battery in my fox could not get over 1.225 and/or 12.4 volts no matter how it was charged...(battery @ 75%). Bought a brand new battery last year...same exact thing. Ya...it's starts O-K...takes a load test fine...but you know something's not quite right. If your battery can not achieve 1.265 and/or 12.7 volts after having been charged and then rested. It may very well be sulfated. Take a hydrometer to the store with ya when you buy that new battery... ps. ya I know these #'s vary slightly... ps. some chargers say they can fix it...the one's I bought didn't... ps. I got three hydrometers...battery in my Taurus Limited is on the money...
Sold my ls swapped obs Chevy,bought a 88 fox t5 is making slot of noise but drove it 2 hours home and man it felt good to be back in a fox just thought I would share with ol uncle brew2l
Ive been driving these cars since 89 and as the years went on I figured out with the low torque starters never buy remanufactured starters always buy new starters it's worth the extra 50 bucks
I put a new 347 on my 91,right off the bat because it was a new engine (tight), things started to cause issues,i had gone to a ministarter years ago and back then i had gotten rid of the "dont start when hot" problem but now it was back again,went and got a new powermaster ministarter, that didn't solve the problem,my negative wire wasn't original, it was basically homemade, mounted in the wrong spot and hard as a rock( classical sign of resistance ) so i ordered a brand new original one and problem solved,no matter how hot it is car starts right away. I love how getting parts for these cars are scarce these days however you can still find battery cables brand new in the original package,as common as those wear out but you cant find a oem heater core,lol
Im a car audio guy..buy one good starter and do a "big 3 upgrade" it will be the last starter u buy .. a ground right from the alternator chassis to the battery a ground right from the engine block directly to frame and a heavy gauge wire for charge directly from alternator output to battery I'm sure you already know this but people here electrical and they panic spend time Jack the car up and put a large Bolt & Nut with lock washer on the frame bare metal... for the chassis ground and then paint it with a primer or rust prevention
I've fought this on my old 88 LX and my '95 GTS. Will have to try the double ground trick. I doubt timing would be the main issue. Probably does t help if it's off a bit. But the slow "hot crank" could definitely be ground issue.
Read my mind. Great tips. I have an 88 Lincoln Town car with a speed density 5.0L. Luxury Mustang, but I figure it still applies. I'm having this problem but when it's cold. I'll do all the checks you suggest, thanks for the videos.
I currently own 56 ford cars@trucks, try adding a ground cable at the bottom starter bolt, up to the negative at the battery. I've tried this in my 87' mustang gt convertible....solved the " Hot Start" issue.
I was just going through this But My starter solonid keeps getting stuck on cranking,wires were smoking and insulation melted,I panicked & started yanking the wires around battery so it 🛑 cranking,it kept me from going to work on 2 Monday’s. By the way your right on the ground,I found that the ecu ground(cylinder shaped at the driver fender) wires were frayed. And I also have the bbk long tube headers. Great video
Never ran into the issue in any of my Foxes, but I had an 81 F150 that used to do it, as well as an old 66 Stang I’d swapped a built 302 and T5 into. The F150 problem was timing related, and the Mustangs issues were ground related. BREW2L, also wanted to mention that the terminology should be “pre-ignition” OR “detonation”, not “pre detonation”.
Mine would sometimes not even turn over. But it was almost intermittent? I had gotten pretty good at pushing it off. It now has a spool in it and it's no fun to push unless it doesn't require you to turn.
I would like brew2l to go more in depth with keeping the TFI cooler, because my car gets really hot after 20 mins of driving and I'm heat soaked and I have to let it sit for hours before I can drive it again
This is a good vedio..I'm going to replace my wasterpump.and timming chain and get a new balancer..my car is 1985 so I should just do it cause who knows the last time it was replaced..I've blown some timing chains befor and cost me some big built engines...also need to do my trans fluid
Mine did that and the ground cable got so hot I couldn’t touch it. I changed the cable and fixed the problem. I cut the old one open and it was green inside from corrosion. I will add the double cable also just to add extra protection. Thanks for the videos
Have any insight on cold start issues supposedly has pimpxs ecu performer intake cai bbk and headers by bbk TB spacer timing or fuel pump is my guess heard it needs 10 degrees btdc and can be about 12-14 depending on car and things etc and heard needs to be 20 degrees and can be anywhere from 36-38 degrees my car is na no turbo etc
hey BREW2L, i have a 1990 fox with the 5.0 and the previous owner put in a starter from a 91 ford ranger and its wired for that starter but the factory solenoid is still on the driver side shock tower area where it always is. So my car basically has two starter solenoids and when i try to start it, it won't crank it'll just click rapidly and not start. I have replaced the ignition switch, the starter solenoid (the one seperate from the starter), and replaced the ignition coil, and the starter, and checked all the connections on the battery. still no start. So i am kind of at a stump right now and I was wondering if there is anything else I could do.
Awesome tip sir! As you were talking the gauges aren’t very accurate. How can I get a better accurate reading on things like my engine temp, oil pressure n amp on the 86 4eyed fox
Digital or electronic analog gauges man ! I’m running some electronic auto meter gauges they have electronic sensors but have the classic analog style look and they read nice but the best way I would say would be a digital gauge
Don’t know if you will ever see this but just wanted to say I’m thankful for your content. Been a sub fir a while now and last weekend I got about the cleanest 89 hatch in the entire north east.38k original miles on 3 turbski built aod from pa supercomp and even the factory primer on the underside. I stole it as it had a blown head gasket but putting it back together now and I really need a way to view the tune. Any chance you can help guide me to the easiest way to do so with stock computer? Eventually I’m gonna go holley but fir now I spent my nugget on the car so funds are tight. It has a wide band and 2 tunes via an sct switch but I would kill for some way of watching on a lap top. Hope you can help
This is gonna sound kinda crazy, cause it is. But I put a fresh 306 in my ranger with flat top pistons, stock ported heads, E303, and GT40 Intake and I run 89 at 18 degrees of base timing. Runs like a raped ape with no detonation/pre-ignition.
So I’m having this problem with my Foxbody where after about 15 minutes of running it will just shut off and not start. I already did everything I could on the cooling side (new radiator, water pump, thermostat) even did all the head gasket test and I don’t know where to go from here. Any advice?
I have an 89 foxbody and it pops out the intake and bucks when accelerating in low rpms, after it backfires the car runs fine. Any idea what it could be? ( Not my car in the video but its doing the exact same thing) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o3fsfM1ZvZw.html
