If you can tell us why it wont start, I WILL GIVE YOU..... 

Awesome car! when you first turned the key I didn't hear the ole foxbody fuel pump sound. my guess is the fuel pump, inertia switch, or the fuse links/wiring in between. You all will get it going! Excited to see more of it!

Keep me posted!!!! I will continue to think about this.

That's a great car to fix up/restore. Nice find, glad you're saving it!

Fuel cut off switch or the fuel pump relay is on the Fritz had that happen to mine bought a new relay and good to go, swap the ac and fuel relay and see if that fixes it

Been there man! If the inertia switch and the fuel pump relay are good it could be the wiring to the pump or the pump itself.

Fusible link on the harness near the driver strut tower.

1. Disconnect fuel line. See if you’re getting fuel to the front. If not change fuel filter 2. Since no power to the fuel pump check inertia switch brown wire i believe. Wire from the front power is green/yellow 3. Relay swap with one out of the hundreds from your yard lol and see if its relay. You got it tho its right under the intake tube 4. Check spark. That annoying little plug (pip sensor) that is connected to the dizzy was my achilles heel. Suckers would always heat soak or spontaneously fail.

Who doesn't love a Reef Blue coupe? 🔥🔥

I had an MSD 6AL with the rev limit chips. The chips went. I didn’t see the box on your car but I saw the coil and thought it would be worth checking. Good luck.

Check battery negative to block and to body. Check all relays and fuses. Is the rotor button in the distributor lol.

I'd suggest checking 4 spark maybe a defective ign module under distributor or coil, also I'd still keep an eye on the ignition switch,, so what I'd do is determine ignition switch power to coil and module then 4 spark using noise light,, another thought is how about the fuel injectors are they turning on? I'd hook fuel pressure gauge to test port and watch it prime ( only cycle key couple times ) look at psi, then crank it 2 see it drop pressure,, if it drops a little pressure during cranking then they are working,, another thought is to pull couple of spark plugs 2 see if they're wet w fuel,, you'll get running,, I'm not a ford fan I actually hate ford but these mustang's and lincoln mark vii are my favorites they're great cars!! Nice video you'll get it running!

Might sound crazy but try releasing pressure on Schrader valve. My 86 t bird turbo coupe wouldn’t start after checking everything, turns out it just needed fuel pressure released. Happened 3 separate times for me. 🤷‍♂️ Sounds like you’ve got spark, fuel pump working and fuel and that’s why I suggest giving it a try. LOVE the channel! Watch every video! 👍

When are you guy gonna open a shop. I'm willing to make the drive to get my car worked on. Man you guys have to much talent not to have you own shop. Let's make it happen. God bless you brother. Love the channel by the way 👍.

What a beautiful find brother! Time to get to work soon! 👍🏻

If the pump is making pressure at the rail I would look at the pickup in the distributor or the TFI module. Also check the wiring harness to the TFI module. If the pickup in the distributor has failed then the injectors may not fire. Check ignition coil while you’re at it

As always a big👍👍 to you and your content! Cant make it Ford Takeover but baking on seeing you at Foxtoberfest '21! Keep at it brother!!👊👊👍💪

check for power yellow wire ignition switch to fuse links goes to fuel pump and ecm and the blue wire to block /black/orange wires from ign sw to eec relay, also check your grounds , some times just putting a ground strap from engine to body and neg to body can solve problems

Check the wires for the relays under the mass air. The insulation on my wires crumbled off and the wire looked burnt. I cut off damaged wires and replaced them. It turned on. Just one of those things. Good luck!

So, funny this pops up. I've been kmember/stroker/long tube swapping my '86 for the last 6 years (yes, years) and it's slowed to a dead snails pace because I COULD NOT get the ECU to fire the pump. Headlights work, HVAC, door dinger, everything. Replaced relays, ignition module, checked grounds 10 times, even had the ECU sent out to check and recap. Pump would only run when jumped using the test port. Just as I'm resigned to spending $2500 on a Holley and digital dash... saw THIS VIDEO and the resolution video and it motivated me. Popped a blade terminal into the ECU ground, screwed it under the negative terminal on the battery temporarily, hit the key today and Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I'm beside myself. Stupid auto part store negative terminal's accessory ground wire ate it internally when I repainted the engine bay. What are the odds. #facepalm

If you do have fuel pressure and spark. Hold the throttle pedal to the floor. This will put it in clear flood mode meaning the injectors shouldn't fire allowing a lot of air to through the head to lite off the excess fuel. That's if the plugs are not totally soaked.

Sounds like my fox once upon a time. I had a crane Hi-6 ignition box on it and sometimes it wouldn't start. Took that thing off and it's been great ever since.

Either the box that all fords have,or the MSD box it doesn't sound like it's getting fire.. being a Ford fanatic I can't even think of the name of that box right now it's late and I'm overly tired LOL anyhow keep up the great work and stay safe stay blessed my friend

You should see the heap I'm trying to put back together ..its a 91..needs all interior . (gray) plus the trim.lol

Have faith in Dover he will figure it out. Man is full of talent and know how plus he is about the fastest dude to throw something together that he can do it blindfolded.

Check the ground for voltage. Grab dvom and hook it up too the ground wires on your tps or any other sensor that runs off the ground. If you have voltage then ur pin 46 ground signal is fried and won’t let the car turn on. Quick way totest grab a extra wire and ground the ground wire.

Any crank no start concern I’ve had with my Fox has always been the TFI module or the Distributor it’s self. Every single time.

Sure u checked for fuel pressure but if not. I have seen the fuel pump s line that connects the fuel pump to the outlet pipe on the hanger they tend to rot around where the fuel clamps are and blow off all the fuel back in the tank.

Chk the 2 bulk connectors wiring harness behind the intake for pin fit and I believe from year to year there were some differences.for the crank no start issue

check the fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk if memory serves me correct drivers side underneath the plastic theres an inertia switch in case of rear impact to kill the fuel pump.. tempos were also equipped with these and were notorious for going bad

Try swapping the fuel pump and check the wires on the fuel pump. Make sure the battery is good. Some relays would make it not run

Yeah I love my old notch back mustang convertibles

Put jumper cables on the negative of the battery and other side of jumpers to a clean spot on the block. Just trying to check off a possible grounding issues.

Did you check the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal, that will stop you in your tracks.

Nice roller notchback! Lots of potential

Caleb you were the one that advised me that the ethyl blend gas will kill a fuel pump if it sits! Turns out, you were right. Tank was shot, too... tons of rust. Get yourself a new fuel pump, pronto. Don't forget to blow the stainless fuel line out from the rear at the fuel pump connection. You can open the Schrader valve up front to do it. That way you make sure your injectors don't have to swallow that nasty old gas. Good luck, brotha!

Like how rust free it is! Too bad you couldn’t get it running but i know you will!

A long shot but check the test port connector. Make sure the signal return wire is not grounding out. I did that by accident once and got the same no cranking results

Nice color bring it back to life.

Disconnect the TFI module connector from the TFI and the measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire and ground. You should see greater than 100 K (100000) ohms. Check the resistance from Pin 4 on the computer connector (dark green/yellow) and the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI connector. You should see 20-24 K Ohms (20,000-24,0000 ohms).

Ignition switch located on top of the steering column underneath the firewall or underneath the dash between the dash in the firewall you want to check at Mission switch they are prone to going bad I have replaced the more than once on my weather Tappan tow or a Ford Mustang.

The fuel pump is controlled by a relay and its power comes from the starter relay. both don't appear to be working, so, starter relay gets power through 2 fusible links: Batt Charge Link (14 Gauge, green wire on one end, brown on the other) and an alternator link (18 Gauge, yellow wire on one end, brown on the other.) Trace your wiring back from the starter relay (green wire) with key in start position, until you hit 12VDC to ground. It will likely be on one side of a blown link, or you'll find another bad connection along the way. It will be a short path to check though. Good luck!

Had similar issue started at starter solenoid checked power all the way to the switch ended up being a fusible link cleaned up wiring boom no money needed

I recently had this issue. Everything tested good and I did all the checks. I realized the computer ground wasn’t grounded to the body. The pump would only prime for a second and shut off.

Friend had a Ford truck with a 5.0, quit rolling down the freeway. After MUCH cussing and hair pulling turned out to be the fuel pump relay socket itself in the power distribution box was failing. Wired another from a junkyard in did the trick.

Are you getting spark?is fuel coming to the Schrader valve? is the ignition wire going to the starter solenoid on the fender wall shorting out when it comes through the inner fender? I had a wire that crumbled and was shorting out and my starter wouldn't kick over.

I managed to pick up my '88 Thunderbird with 123,000km(70,000miles) for $3500. 5.0 auto car and it is all original. Owned by an elderly couple who only drove it back and forth to church. They passed and willed it to family who just wanted it gone from their yard. Love my tbird way more than any other vehicle I have ever owned

Pull the distributor and leave everything hooked up. Now turn the key on and spin the distributor shaft by hand with everything hooked up and see if the injectors and fuel pump cycle. If it doesn’t it’s the pick up coil in the distributor. Happened to me one time and made me question all my mechanic skills

Fusible link or the pump gave out check your harness to it see if you're getting power back to it also see if the engine will run off fuel fed to it down the intake to rule out something to the ecm wiring

Is the coil receiving 12 to 8 volts while cranking? Pull the coil plug out and look down into the coil plug well and you will see a + beside the spade connector and the same on the other spade but will be a - .

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and give it a shot of starting fluid to make sure it will fire. Give the fuel tank a good whack, possibly stuck. Use a stethoscope or test light to check for injector pulse. Check for power at fuel pump, may have access port under rear seat. Dont forget the crash/impact switch...I forget what they call it...inertia switch.

I'd say a bad primary coil. On early EFI cars, before coil packs started to handle both primary and secondary coil responsibilities (Primary: Jumping the 12V DC to the high voltage needed to run; Secondary: low-voltage requirement needed to burn unburned fuel due to EGR), there was a separate coil from the cap and rotor on the distributor. This is the first thing I would check, and it's the easiest to fix. Second: Most early '90s Fords had an inertial shut-off switch, located at the passenger side of the trans tunnel, under the dash. Make sure that switch is off, and in good working order -- otherwise, the fuel pump won't run. Third, check the EFI Hall Effect crank timing sensor. Without this sensor and the circuit in proper working order, the car won't fire, because the computer will think the timing of the car isn't functioning. And therefore, no spark will reach the distributor or plugs.

Cool find! Bummer it won't start. I'm dying to know what it was. Typically something simple.

Did u check the distributor to see if it was at TDC when you installed it? The multiwire plug that connects to the distributor body may not be seated properly.

Spray some starting fluid in it to see if it fires up that way to make sure your getting spark if not I had to ground the tank and pump off with a new ground to make pump work

Check tach wire possibly grounded out if someone had installed a after market tach and also there is a blue relay eec power relay pass side kick panel and eec ground that goes bad from moisture

Get your wiring diagram and test light out. The ignition switch goes to a plastic module on the steering column that does all that. Just saying, not sure if you guys know. The ignition switch itself doesn't actually do anything except push the rod that moves the usually white module on the column

If the ignition switch isnt functioning, chances are you're not getting an ECM trigger to power causing the EEK4 system to not send a 5 volt reference which would cause the fuel pump to not fire and often times a no spark. I had this happen in one of my foxes before. its either the connection on the column and/or the ignition switch itself is bad...mine was both and the inertia switch was tripped...that was a fun one to figure out.

I'll bet it's the ignition module. Had issues with my '86.. bad modules. I carried a spare in the console- with the special tool to change it, and I had to a couple of times.

It comes down to fuel and fire. Did you ck and see if you have fire to the dizzy and then to the plugs? Also have you ck and see if you have fuel getting to the injectors? With the fire, has the the coil been cked? Again, it comes down to fuel and fire!

Have you looked at the EEC (Electronic Engine Control) relay, does fuel pump have a good ground, do you have spark, are injectors firing, you can hear injectors open and close with a mechanics stethoscope, good gas, injectors won't pass water, I've seen the roll pin break on the distributor gear. I'm a retired Ford, Lincoln, Mercury technician...

Put a jumper wire from the battery to the positive on the coil, if it starts the ignition switch on the steering column could be bad.

Fusible link for the fuel pump circuit at the solenoid. Give the end of the links a tug one by one and you’ll feel it’s like a rubber noodle. How’s the pump? Was it new or swapped or what was in the tank when bought? Varnished up rusty crusty pump trying too hard probably pulled too much load initially and popped the link.

I would've thought ignition switch would fix it. Did you bolt in or engage new ignition switch and was able to turn over starter from in car. I think it powers ecu and fuel pump.

Check ignition module . Had a issue with TP sensor spray carb cleaner in intake and see if it crankes . Had some once its started it works fine all day. Then once it sits won't run fuel pump. Was a Ford tech 26 years have seen some crazy crap with these systems. Check switch on clutch pedal too if it won't start with the key.

Other than the paint needs some loving, the car is a nice foxbody. I would guess electrical, since you are jumping the starter solenoid, i would guess is no power to the coil for the distributor.

Mine did the same thing... I changed out the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator and Boom she fired right up. So that's my guess. Beauty Notch guys. How much did he end up buying it for?

Probably a kill switch installed somewhere. I've seen some that while you were cranking you had to push a certain switch in the car at the same time. (window up, cruise button etc).

Well Ok, Not sure if that thing needs a Programable factory Key? You could spray something in the air cleaner to see if it would fire. Or pull off the coil wire and check for spark. Good Luck!

Check the fuel safety safety switch or replace it. May be popped up since engine was taken out.

You know this already but hey 100 bucks would help lol The power path picks up from a fuse link near the starter relay. Fuse links are like fuses, except they are pieces of wire and are made right into the wiring harness. The feed wire from the fuse link (pink/black wire) goes to the fuel pump relay contacts. When the contacts close because the relay energizes, the power flows through the pink/black wire to the contacts and through the dark green\yellow wire to the inertia switch. The other side of the inertia switch with the brown\pink wire joins the pink/black wire that connects to the fuel pump. The fuel pump has a black wire that supplies the ground to complete the circuit.

Have you checked for 12v signal to the coil? You jumper wired the fuel pump, so i assume you've eliminated fuel issues. My suggestion is to trace back from the coil. Sounds like your not getting spark.

check the wire harness that plugs into the top of the fuel tank, had one go bad on my 88

Hey guys is the 93 Electric Red LX hatch still around? I remember you saying something about Alex was thinking about taking it on as his next fox project but haven't heard anything about it unless I missed something since you said it was going back to get resprayed i belive about a year ago... that's a pretty cool little 93 there I'd love to get my hands on a notch but until I do I've got my 93 (⚡ red) basically redone everything shes still a push rod 5 speed... LMR is a lifesaver and thanks for the discount codes for all them big orders it helps alot! next thing for me is going to be engine bay smoothing and fresh paint but I think I'm going to wait till this winter to do the paint since it's been a while since we've been able to go to shows and meetups that are all cracking off everywhere again and I need to partake in some I was feeling the fox hang out withdraws 😆 I think a lot of us have been!!!

Ground wire looks funky.

I have seen the salt and pepper shakers give people problems. Sometimes the pins get pushed out of the connector or have corrosion in them

the fox body is gonna be my next build im currently trying to rebuild a 98 gt.

Check the main wire harness that goes to the ignition switch under the steering column. Make sure the four tangs are holding the switch tightly to the column.

Change the TFI module. I have had that go bad just after driving it and trying to start it up 10 minutes later.

Hook up the new ignition switch. The rod in the column has to slide the internals in the ignition to energize the EFI in order to start.

It sounds like it's not getting any fuel. I imagine you've checked for rail pressure already. Have you check for injector pulse? I went through this with my brother built 4th gen LT1 camaro, had zero fuel or spark because the opti took a crap.

I need those FMS Valve covers!!

my fox has a little bat handle switch that controls power to the fuel pump and is mounted on the glove box side next to where the radio mounts kinda by where the turn signal relay hangs.

Pull a spark plug and check for spark... If you have spark I would replace the fuel filter. Depending how long it’s been sitting it could be clogged or full of water.

You mentioned that you were able to get the fuel pump running by jumping out the relay, so I wouldn’t think it’s a fuel issue, did you check to see if you had injector Pults and also I don’t recall you mentioning whether you had spark.

When it cranks it sounds like it fighting itself, distributor timing issue? Was the dizzy taken out.

Check the fuel cut off in the trunk of the car

Ignition module on the distributor, notorious to go bad. I've changed multiples of them. If not that, could be the stator in the distributor, had a 95 long ago that had a bad stator.

Amazing that that starting procedure does not include the instruction to turn the key on and allow the fuel pump to school up before you start the vehicle. You turn the key on, count to three, then start the car. It will start so much easier. The 93 still had that ignition switch that like to come apart start shorting out, be careful that it doesn't catch fire. It also will stop vehicle from starting.

Neutral safety switch ftw!

Did you check the flowstat in the distributor, or it could be the shankel lock in the fuel pump went bad. Hope this helps.

TFI MODULE, Bad ground, fuel pump, ecu, bad plugs, short circuited the system and burnt up fuseable links, ignition switch, off timing, neutral safety switch went bad.

The 100$ gift card is just a bonus. But I have been working and modifying on all year Mustangs for over twenty years. Just helping you guy's out and getting the car running is good enough for me

ECM main power wire to the solenoid fusible link, or ecm ground plug,

When cranking do all the main relays have the proper voltage in crank mode. I have seen relays have power in the acc key position but loose power at crank.

What a score.

Love those t-5 best trans ever!

Check the main relay for the ecm? Worth a check to make sure it is working

I ran into a gauntlet of problems with my 92 that had been setting for years. After changing the fuel pump relay, ecm relay, all fusible links, grounds, new ecm, two fuel pumps, and a new ignition system. My problem was..............Clogged fuel supply line from the pump to the rails. Blow compressor air back through it disconnected at pump to check. Quick check, easy fix.

Does it have the external voltage regulator that has to be bolted to the body? I had an older 1 that gave me alot of grief until I realize that it had to be bolted down

Fuse able link on the driver's fender close to firewall, relay under driver seat.