@@diezelkuchar6560 I obviously don’t know the machine that you’re working with, but it still remains the same if it is an analog machine or a PLC control machine. Get the machine to run unloaded adjust the linkage on the control arm and or the position of the butterfly inlet valve. You’re trying to get the compressor to maintain around 60 pounds of unloaded some pressure. And that’s basically it
@@diezelkuchar6560 One more thing if you’re working with a machine with a pressure switch typically an Allen, Bradley pressure switch is all you have to do to get the compressor to run on loaded is remove one of the wires from the pressure switch. Hopefully this helps.
Would you be able to do a service call over the phone/maybe face time? We have a diesel 750 sullair and a diesel 375 ingersoll rand I am trying to diagnose some issues on the air ends. Thanks in advance.
Thanks reminds of the time oil feild operations where turned over to me by my dad he would buy oil and gas wells plus the equipment and I would tune up all of the separators, compressers and dehydrators and keep them working he's gone now and I am retired but I sure enjoyed working like that some really cold winters and very hot summers.
Very nice video. I used to work on these in the 80's and for 30 years. Way back Sullair was using an auto transformer for start ups on the larger units ... like 400hp. I see the Sullicon inlet valve is gone. The rest looks the same except for the microprocessor controller. My last 10 years was with an IR company so I didn't get to see the Sullair version.
Very informative video. I own a Sullivan Pallatek DF375 and it is the heart beat of my operation. If my compressor is not maintained regularly and given TLC it will let you know at the worst possible time, and for me that is not an option. Having purchased my Rig 5 months ago, I want to know as much as possible about every component that makes up compressor. Recently because of excessive oil in my Discharge, I removed the Sump separator element and did a close inspection, I was apprehensive at first having never done this, but with videos like yours and others, the task is not so intimidating. I took video as I proceeded and will post soon to help others. Pay it forward! Thank you, Joe DBTX
My advice if your machine is an important element of your operation is to find a reputable air compressor distributed to look after your machines on a regular basis. It’s cheaper to maintain than to have breakdowns
I was a compressor tech for an Ingersoll-Rand distributor for 5 years. Couldn't of explained it better myself. I always liked working on Sullair units. They are simple, easy to service and tough as nails
Hello, I just came across your channel while doing some compressor research and have thoroughly enjoyed your videos. They are extremely informative. I am about to purchase an early to mid 1990's LeRoi 185 cfm compressor with a John Deere diesel engine from a friend. I will be using it for soda blasting some restoration projects (mainly aluminum) that I have. I am not familiar with rotary compressors but look forward to learning more about their operation and the specific maintenance requirements of this LeRoi. My background is with Cat plunger/high pressure pumps, which seem like a piece of cake compared to these compressors. Thanks for uploading!
One word of caution when changing a separator element on a screw machine. If the seperator element flange has a gasket either side of it (some have O rings) make sure there is a way for the element to be electrically grounded. There`s usually a staple or foil strip to ground any static build up caused by the compressed air passing through the seperator. If the element isn`t grounded the static can build up and create a spark when it grounds itself. A spark mixed with oil vapour, heat and compressed air usually results in seperator vessel fire. It`s not so much a fire, more like an explosion; as it`s contained in the vessel. However the fire in the vessel will destroy the element with the result that debris will spread into the oil ways, the oil will be burnt, the safety valve will be damaged as will any controls fitted to the seperator vessel. Oh and you`ll need to visit the toilet as you will have crapped your self due to the massive band, flames and smoke. I`ve been a compressor engineer for nearly thirty years and this has happened twice; and that`s two times to many.
Happened to me last year, so now i make sure all the staples in plus i run a ground wire from the tank (Receiver) cover (top) to the tank bottom then run a wire from there to the panel ground. I feel that’s safer
I love the Sullair compressors. Or as we call it the big green machine. I use ours to supply air for ceco drop hammers. It works everyday hot cold it don't matter. It runs. ours doesn't have all the fancy electronics to it but I would put it up against any on any day. Thank you for this video.
This looks more like a VCC200S variable capacity but I didn't see the spiral valve assembly. Sullair is a reliable compressor brand if you service it correctly. Great video man!
was walking to the back of a hydraulic rockdrill, past the 4foot square oil cooler that blows out sideways just as the 2inch hose fitting blew off and emptied the separator into the fan, it wasn't hot enough to burn but it was still effing hot. would have made a good photo, one side drenched with oil, hair sticking out straight sideways, and I imagine a fairly surprised expression. it was an ingersol rand 350cfm behind a 3306 caterpillar with 4 big hydraulic pumps hanging off the front.
the air oil discharge temperature must be no lower than 175 degrees F or condensate will become an issue..to answer your question it is flashed off and is carried down the airline in the form of condensate
4 года назад
Thank your Video.I am woker repair air compressor.That video help me my job .
that motor would make a beasty sound if it was wired wrong and went into reverse after starting!, those compressors starting sound awesome as they are!
yer, the motor would pull a shitton of amps if it did suddenly try and reverse at speed! PS- what type of truck can i see in the background at the very start? never seen one here and it looks cool!
180-190f is normal discharge temp. The compressor must run @ a minimum temp of 170 f or you will make water/ condensate in the sump tank. Check the operation of the thermo valve AKA thermo mix valve, fluid diverting valve, thermostat
Hello I'm Chief Mechanic Rig please Show me more for flooded rotary screw air compressor works and How to be a maintenance process What is known at this type problems I liked it a lot and caught my attention Video Please you continue in this way to teach people Good luck
First you need to dry the air does the current compressed air system have a compressed air dryer? There are basiclly two types refrigerated or desiccant
I would check the contacts in the holding circuit like the stop switch, high temp switch, over load relay or relays, high pressure switch it's some switch in the circuit that is more than likely the cause
Is the diagrams drawn in sullair manuals is the same as the real built compressors? because the blow down valve and solenoid valves symbols confusing me
Excellent job on the video, keep up the great work for all of us out here !!! With a 6 cyl air compressor (single stage) that puts out 100 psi per each cyl..Whats the maximum air pressure (psi) that I should get in the air tank at standard temperature ? Thanks
Well my Australian friend if it wasn't for your video on that champion air compressor I would have never opened a youtube channel..I just had to make the comment why are you scrapping that thing!!? just for your information those air ends don't come apart easily. I still feel like this would be the perfect field for you to be in it's got everything electrical plumbing pneumatics refrigeration PLC control systems what more do you need? Thanks for commenting Ed
I'm well aware of how the blow down valve operates.when I preform the fluid change I disconnect the pilot line to the blow down valve then shut the air compressor off the sump tank remains pressurized and the fluid can be easily drained this practise eliminates the on off on off technique to evacuate the fluid. This is a C- flange motor arrangement. you can't change the alignment even if you wanted to
I'm familiar with flooded screw compressors, we have a Sulair(s) where I work. I'm most interested in the method used for removing the oil from the air stream. As you stated some oil does go down stream but it must be a small amount. I suspect there must be a reduction in air velocity to allow the oil to drop out. I would like to know how this is done or directed to some information. I have a gas stream that needs to have most of the oil removed for proper operation and am looking for ideas
Well done one point that motor don’t care what rotation it goes ,just the screw will be affected I tell people check rotation check rotation check rotation and when your done check rotation ✌️
Awesome video. I have 2 ingersoll rand sr100 at work and im trying to get them to run in sequence. Can you tell me how to do that. They both have Tellis controllers.
Hey David how’s it going? I R Intellis there were so many versions of that and I haven’t had that much experience with any type of sequencing of Ingersoll rand equipment you may have to go back to the distributor to get more information on that then I can give you, but if you know how to change the pressure switch settings you can always do that to select a lead machine. I used to do that with a couple of sullair machines do you keep the hours the same, I would just change the settings every 45 days or 1000 hours. Sorry I can’t help you anymore than that
upon shutdown the pressure is realsed from seperator tank , you can hear it through the silencer. at start up u get 6x amps so constant on off to evacuate fluid dury service severely strains motor. just 1 line end comes off. also there is available rotational alignment gauge to dial in air end to motor prior to coupler.
It's vented from the sump tank by means of a blow down valve, if the blow down valve fails to operate there's a high pressure switch that shuts the machine down, if that fails to operate the sump tank pressure relief valve will lift and vent the sump tank
good day sir i had a DENYO MPS-55ss series air compressor the problem is that once i run it as it starts around a minute or two it stops .. can you give me an idea what causes this?.. thanks
haha thats cool!, yer it was a shame to scrap the big one but nobody wanted or needed it around my area. sadly it was too far gone electrically as I found out after opening the control panel and finding it full of water :( I would love to work in the compressor biz!, not sure who does it around my area tho.
Hi....With a oil lubricated compressor (like shown) You'll pass oil and its in the low parts per million! Compressors uses a "Separator" filters..Some have screw on cans and some use a large "Top hat filler" in the top of the oil tank depending on model and make. The return line should be as hot as the oil tank when the compressor is loading. There are other tests like running the compressor in "Unload" and breaking the return pipe to see if you have vacuum and pressure each side of the brake
thanks very much for answer to me, can you tell me what torque you use for them, the book i have says for lid bolt 3/4 the torque is 200lb or 270 nm. so i think its too much.
bancroft ricketts I've never used a torque wrench on the sump tank lid bolts, just tighten them good and tight your just trying to get the flange gaskets not to leak..Some times aftter running for a number of months it may be necessary to retorque the bolts
Whats fhe Best way to do a fluid change on these? Just changle filter, Drain sump and refill? Or is there a way to drain the system and refill? Cant seem to figure out what point to fill to. (I only drained the sump and refilled)
You’re better off to drain it under pressure, remove the quarter inch control line that goes to the blowdown valve then shut the machine down and it will maintain some pressure without blowing down
I have two sullair 2210's. It seems to me that their oil consumption is pretty high. Is their any way to adjust this or is it just the nature of the beast? Thanks for any help or advice on these machines.
Our compressor shuts off when the temperature starts to rise. It’s located outside. We are thinking about changing the heat coil too cool it off. What do you think will help from it shutting off besides the coil? We have a “LeRoi” brand.
Hector Garcia-Martinez you can check the temperature going in and out of the cooler it should reject at least 30 degrees if it's more than that and it's still running hot you need to replace the thermo diverting valve element Also known as a thermostat. If you're not rejecting at least 30 degrees on the cooler than I would say replace the cooler.
It's just the characteristics of the thermo diverting valve or thermostat like in your car, The thermostat element doesn't open up until it reaches its set temperature
hi, you made this video very informative and understandable, i bought a 1992 EJBRDB 15HP , and it was converted from 460 to 230 , but i have been told it needs programing , because is plugged in but wont constan run. any advice will help. thank you
I have an IR 185 cfm and I'm changing the separator element. the element fits horizontal in the tank. my question is, where should I position the brass hole that's on the face of the separator? should I align it with the savage line on the cover? that would be at the bottom or 6 o'clock position.
I'm assuming the unit is air cooled. There are quite a few things that can cause a overheating problem, Assuming you have not varnished the inside of the oil cooler by running an Inferior type of lubricant, and you don't have a high temperature rise of crossed the air end, I would pressure wash the cooler and replace the thermal valve
Hi....What's the minimum temperature.. good for oil flooded compressor? I had some situation in tropical country.. The air end discharge temperature is @ 71 Celsius and injected coolant temperature @ 61 Celsius . I believed some wrong with this temperature..Could you share with us some experience.. Thanks.
you can use a 10 or 20 weight hydraulic oil and change it every thousan hours .Running any other fluid besides the PAO or polyglycol compressor fluid will result in oil carry over and the possibility of forming varnish deposits in the interior of the compressor mainly the cooler itself
In our plant have SA350 oil inject screw air compressor. In these have two oil filter after the oil cooler . So I want to know that all these two filter work continues at same time or one work at a time and one stand by. Please reply me.
I want to spray or mist an oil into a very low pressure dirty gas stream and then pull the oil back out collect the dirt and recycle. no refrig necessary. Need to clean up the gas so its usable. I thought of the flooded screw comp and thought the system of oil separation might work.
Ty informative video been going through he'll changing siezed compressor with a good used compressor that one sized in less than a minute called vanair tech not much help your video explains how the lube system works in detail afraid to change another compressor ty again
I just picked up a Quincy QMT25 Quincy wants $475.00 for 5 gal of oil! Some local guys that have screws to sand blast tell me to use ATF. What oil do you recommend?
I would stay away from automatic transmission fluid it has a carryover problem a cheap alternative would be da torque fluid or the delvac Mobil Oil Products
Oil depends on use of compressor. Sand blasting with a unit creates a very dirty environment. Synthetics are best for long life, The trick is to properly filter the inlet air. A standard air filter is NOT the answer, spend some money and get a multi-stage air inlet filter. Most oil filters are 15 or 20 micron rated. you would want an air inlet filter 15 or less micron. Synthetic oils give you long oil change intervals (8000) hrs. or annually, oil filter every (2000) hrs, oil analysis is also recommended (2000) hrs. Petroleum based oils are only good for (1000) hrs or 3 months with the probability of varnish build up internally. ATF fluids lost their compatibility years ago. Different manufacturers of ATF came out with a wide "flash point" range. ATF is a 15 wt. You may want to consider a 20 wt. hydraulic with "antiwear/antifoam" additives. Also petroleum based fluids MUST be held to a strict change interval. Remember for every 5 degrees over 200F the oils life is cut in half, synthetic or petroleum based. Like all mechanical equipment neglect is the most harmful thing to an air compressor.
Hello, we got screw compressor from Compair brand, we are facing some problem in that; can anyone please guide us to rectify the problem. The minimum set pressure is 6.4bar and maximum is 8.6 bar; some time it is not re-loading the air once after stopping the compressor on its maximum set pressure.
Is there any danger in danger in modifying the coupling. We were having problem with purchasing the parts. What we did was replacing it with fabricated sprocket and used chain to couple the compressor and motor. The unit seem to run normal but after few minutes it will shutdown. Is there kind of a knock sensor that make it stop when sensing abnormal changes in vibration? We where also having problem with unlocking key password of the user setting. The unit is DMC with 100 hp motor.
Hello I have seen your videos it's really good And I need your favour i have sullair LS25S compressor . When we start the compressor it is running but some mint latter it is shutdown by showing sum pressure low or separator pressure high please give me feed back how to tackel the problem
arjun shrestha more than likely you have an issue with the pressure transducers or transducer, you need to First confirm that you don't have a high separator differential pressure. install a pressure gauge on the line side and a pressure gauge on the sump side or a differential pressure gauge, if the separator differential pressure is under 15 PSID you have an issue with the transducers not reading correctly. at this point if you do not have new transducers they can be calibrated inside of the microprocessor, or you may try to swap transducers as one may be reading higher than the other one. is all it takes is one transducer to read 5 lb High and one to read 5 lb low and a 5 lb differential across the separator and you're going to get that fault
ROTARYCOMPTECH Hi hope you are doing good And thanks you for responding actually i already change new pressure transducer but problem is same . Actually when we start the compressor sum pressures is rising and stedy and also it goes full load after that when compressor is going unload the sump pressure also goes down it should be stedy or less not a zero and its showing low sump pressure error then compressors shut down i have a some photo can I send to you directly. Please suggest us to tackel the problem th
arjun shrestha from what I'm reading and understanding in your comment it sounds like the unloaded sump pressure is not set correctly, when the compressor unloads the sump pressure should be no less than 30 PSIG ideally 60 PSIG, have you checked the unloaded sump pressure ?
ROTARYCOMPTECH Hi, I'm also going to replace an Air/Oil Separator on a 250 cfm Sullivan Rotary Screw Compressor. Actually, the reservoir, or sump tank, is pretty much like the one on your video, except that it's shorter, but looks the same diameter. So my question is, what are the staples on the gasket for? The element I bought, has 2 staples on the gasket and they don't seem like they are holding anything together, just the gasket.
***** Do not remove the staples As you pass air through the separator element it causes static electricity The staples ground the separator element and Reduce the risk of a sump tank fire
Hi guy i own to v200s sullair compressor and cant seem to reset the dam mentenance service light. A ante in the book. I realy dont need to call sullaur. To rest a service. I know. Theyll charge. Me to reset. Service. Some of want to save do our self. Do you have any infor on this. I can only look threw the controls it. Wont let me chang any thing. Thank for your. Time.
ROTARYCOMPTECH Its oil flooded rotary twin screws igets some pic so yall can see there are not very old. 1 is bulit in 2015 and there other 2012. They both are Air cooled radiator fan Just like video Watch it all time. And i apply at wrk
The main 1" line from the oil reservoir to the compressor lobes. I have an older Sullair R D24 compressor used for vent gas system that doesn't have an oil pump but there's no orifice(may be missing an orifice, no maintenance records) on the main oil feed line to the lobes; the problem is I'm observing excess oil carryover on the main header, it seems we're over flooding the compressor. The separator elements was replaced and the lines purged, problem still exists.
+Mike Obu I've never seen a sullair air compressor with an oil pump only the vacuum pumps have oil pumps on them, I think I would get a hold of sullair or try to find a manual on the machine to try to determine if it had an orifice, you could always experiment around with a ball valve or a gate valve and throttle back the flow. I'm sorry I can't help you any further than that it all comes down to GPM, horsepower and RPM
i stumbled into your video as with youtube u never know what you watch sometime. it made me think hard, your vid. friggin brain injury. i was trained in michigin city indiana sullair plant.
Make sure you have proper water Separator, and air treatment filters installed along with a sufficiently sized air drier which basically dries the compressed air before it enters your network.
Hi excelent videos i have a problem with sullair ls20t-200a first i got alarm for dpi separator high and sump pressure high so i replaced oil , oil filter and separator element which was in very bad condition also replaced minimum pressure valve that was also in bad condition but I am still getting alarm for dpi separator high and alarm sump pressure high any suggestions thanks in advance
The pressure transducers need to be replaced or recalibrated, You may also try swapping the pressure transducers from sump to line and see if it corrects the issue, although if the line pressure transducer is reading high and you swap it to the sump it may give you a waiting to blow down condition
ROTARYCOMPTECH Thanks for the quick reply. I tried swapping the wire connectors from one to the other and I believe that’s what happened I haven’t tried calibrating do you have any tips on how to perform the calibration and would you happen to have or know how I could get a parts list or parts drawing so I could get familiar with what’s what on the unit Thanks
@@carlossilva154 you can't swap the wire connections or the unit won't even start, as now you're reading line pressure on what the compressor thinks is sump pressure, you need to physically remove the transducers and swap their positions, calibrating the transducers is a little bit involved, That's why I made the recommendation to replace them. As far as gathering information possibly online or your Sullair distributor , the factory itself probably won't be much help they're pretty tight-lipped about proprietary information and dealing with end users
@@carlossilva154 before you start changing and replacing things I would confirm or deny that you don't have a high separator differential. I would use a pressure differential gauge to determine the actual differential pressure, Also keep in mind many of the newer machines read the line pressure Downstream of the aftercooler so there's always about a 5 PSID across the aftercooler @ full load.
