Thank you so much for making this video. As you rightly state garages charge a fortune. I was quoted £1300 for the turbo actuator oil etc. The part was £70. My tip as I couldnt get a socket the right length. Use a plumbers sink box spanner and cut it down. Drill a couple of holes for a leverage bar. Cheap as chips. I also bent a cheap spanner into a z and chopped as required. New part had an extra metal housing on the base. Took that off so the part would fit. Assembling it is tricky. Started the actuator nut before fully mounting the part. My hands are too big so stick some string half way round the nut clockwise with gaffer tape. Stick the nut to the finger that can reach the spindle. Locate it,pull the string this should just catch the thread. Rest is easy. The car is 1K in and better than ever. Brilliant thanks so much 👍
Is this the same engine as the skoda Octavia 1.6tdi? Do you recall the engine number? I'm in the same situation where the garage is telling me I need to spend £2,000 on a new turbo when the part is 40 pounds! I don't believe they cannot just change the actuator which I think is the problem as the engine warning I am given is for sensor a which I believe is the sensor on top of the actuator. Any advice would be amazing as I have to get to the bottom of this without being ripped off by some dodgy shark garage!
I’m having the same issue with the same code come on it’s saying that I’m not getting enough turbo pressure but I believe that it’s the actuator that’s wrong because I start up the car and run normal and then all the sudden the plug light blinks and the check engine light comes on and it will run like it has no Turbo at all. It’s super laggy and the low plug light just blinks and blinks and blinks so if you could get back with me, were you having an intermittent issue as well and then when you replace the actuator everything was back to normal??
Tried this with 65mm 3/8 drive socket wouldn't fit ,,only alive after would be to use a slim headed rachet,, after we had to try slotting the long socket to make something similar to the vw tool
Hello, I do have a problem that non of around garages even knows what it is. My golf 6 CFFB engine throw a codes of P0236 and P2563(Turbocharger Boost Control Position ic Passive/Sporad ic ic ic Passive/Sporad Sensor Circuit Range/Performance). I have changed both selenoid, MAP sensor, EGR unit with cooler and still have same error codes… the actuator hold vacuums but the vacuum goes off somehow. Please please advice what to do… 😢
Hi Alex. Have you solved the problem. I’m in the same situation. New n75 in place. Actuator responds well to vacuum. But no vacum reaches it. All hoses are tested. Maybe electric?
@@hassankahli hello mate, I changed the actuator but not sort the problem. At the end did EGR and DPF delete with remap and also the mechanic found out one of the wire from the boost turbo sensor has no connection on it so they replaced the wire from sensor to the next connection which is between the battery and headlamp. I have no problem since then and the car pull like a train 🚊
Does anything need to be programmed/ re-learned or will it be fine as long as the nuts on the new rod are put in the same place as the nuts on the old rod ?
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos! I'm about to change the actuator on my 2009 CBEA 2.0 TDI Jetta and your videos are an immense help! Thank you! The troubleshooting I did is here: ru-vid.comz-1o-xlAuNY?si=FoRpzRHZiXrPf1ay
Thank you so much for the videos! I have a code p0299 and have test the boost actuator like in your other video. Mine holds vacuum and the solenoid has vacuum when the car is running. What else should I be looking for?
I'm ready to bet that your car is going into limp mode once you're asking some power. My Guess is it could still be a faulty wastegate cuz it's electronically piloted. Could also be a boost leak, or seized veins(exhaust side) . That Can be alot of things, all depending from your kind of use
@@maxly501 Any idea why this problem only pops up on me when the weather starts to warm? The car runs beautifully in freezing weather, but now that it's warmer, this same problem comes back like clockwork.... so strange,...
Didi you have any sound from turbo with fault actuator? I got p02990 and when i start car again it go away and after some time when i drive faster it comes again,glowplugs blink and no turbo. When car is cold and when i want acelerate i hear the turbo whistles and sound go away after few acelerations. Some says its actuator and some dirty dpf. Audi Q5 2.0 TDI 2014
Ive replaced my actuator it runs fine unless i lut my foot down and then it lags and then turbo kicks in amd just doesn't run right. Any advice? Is it just the position of the nuts on the rod that is causing the issue? Any help please!
I have to do the same job on my 2.5 TDi Touareg. I contacted Garrett and they said that you can't buy the actuator separately and if you do manage to find a horrible cheap Chinese copy (Garrett turbos are made in China) then I won't be able to dial it in without a flow bench and nobody has one of those. I knew that couldn't be right because I reinstalled the existing actuator when I rebuilt the CHRA about a year ago. There's plenty of actuators available out there, they just don't label them as R5 but almost all the TDi actuators are the same........
I’m having the same issue with the same code come on it’s saying that I’m not getting enough turbo pressure but I believe that it’s the actuator that’s wrong because I start up the car and run normal and then all the sudden the plug light blinks and the check engine light comes on and it will run like it has no Turbo at all. It’s super laggy and the low plug light just blinks and blinks and blinks so if you could get back with me, were you having an intermittent issue as well and then when you replace the actuator everything was back to normal??
Im doing this now. Do you know if the metal shim (installed over the 2 bolts on my actuator rod) can be removed by pulling out or do I have to unscrew all the way on both screws to get actuator off?
Does anyone with this issue get a long farting noise when shutting down the engine? Pretty sure that my car has a problem with this solenoid. I only have the issue once in a while where the turbo cuts out until engine is restarted.
Great info I'm in the middle of this job right now. Just out of curiosity I notice codes stamped on the failed one, so I take it that it was original VW and the new one you installed has no codes so is non VW is that correct. I'm just trying to decide on which to buy. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Hey,i have the same problem with a polo 1.4 diesel from 2015. Exactly the same problems with the garages, some of them didn't even take a look🤣🤣 Where are you based and how much it's going to be, included the part? Thank you
I have a 2014 VW Passat TDI its throwing a p0299 code. I tested the actuator to see if it holds vacumm and it does. So i weeded that problem out could it be the actual turbo boos solenoid that is connected to the firewall?
my A1 1.6 TDI (2011) has very little power when flat out for around 3 seconds then suddenly surges, i presume this is a turbo actuator issue (self diagnosed as a first year apprentice mechanic) was wondering if these engines are similar? came across your channel via tiktok, keep up the great content.
Exactly the same for me, 1.6 TDI Golf, Setting Off is very weak and sluggish, car engine brakes a lot when I’m barely moving so I assume the wastegate is stuck closed and affecting air fuel ratio
Hi,my problem it's:Error code P2563,Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit: Implausible Signal. Do you think can be the turbo actuator? Thanks
Assuming you have a tdi considering that’s what this video is about your issue will probably be the pressure valve sensor if I had my best guess with p2563 p0299 is usually a under boost code that goes to the vane actuator I would replace the boost pressure valve sensor then your maf if one of those two don’t fix then go to the vane actuator it’s usually those 3 or the turbo is blown up not many other causes of failure lol
Mechanics who advise on changing turbo clearly want your money plus turbo costs. It looks a lot easier taking actuator off than taking the whole turbo out. Spot on pal 👌🏼
