I havenot seen any other mechanic explaying these stuff but for me there is no need to search any in order to understard what is going on. Thank youvery much. From Greece!
I'm a maintenance technician. And I just wanted to leave a comment and say that you did a very good job of explaining the wiring diagram an the flow of electricity. Most explanations do not look underneath the plastic to show you what is taking place.
just installed thier ac/ dc conversion kit for the YFZ 450. everything was straight forward, clear instruction, great photos. Happy to have my quad back running again!
Excellent video. I'd been looking online for a correct explanation of permanent magnet alternators principles and encountered a lot of misunderstanding of how electricity works. You obviously understand your subject and you also explain it simply and accurately. Thanks.
Wish I had seen this video before I chose an OEM stator over one your guys' stators. I was just worried that an OEM one would be better quality but after seeing this, you guys look like you know what you're doing. 😀
Excellent tutorial bro. Thank you so much for sharing. You make it sound similar, but I know these presentations take time to put together. We all appreciate your time and sharing. Thanks again.
Very clear and useful video. It would be nice if you can show how to rewire the stators for 3 phase and single phase including the wire sizes and how the phases are linked in the stator, auchbas for Y or delta wiring.
Great video...getting ready to repair my klr. Had a rock fly up and hit the stator cover, bike died immediately.The local shop estimated $400 for the fix...I think I'll have a look myself first.
You can definitely replace your stator (and cover) yourself on a KLR! Very easy job. Good time to do the doohickey (counterbalancer chain tensioner) at the same time if it is not already done. See our KLR stator install video on our channel for detailed instructions!
Great video and content. I'm making a DIY 12v cdi and DC conversion for my 1960 non battery, Lambretta (6v, AC, points). Trying to stuff the modern circuitry into original regulator, rectifier and coil shells to keep an original appearance. Subbed
thank you very much from ISRAEL. your explanation is an Excellent . you are explaning for details simple and clear, and demostrating the best way to teach. even i have background about it . but i have been learning more things from you . THANK YOU VERY MUCH . OF COURSE ILL WATCH MORE .
wow, that's the absolute best video I've ever seen of explaining the charging/ignition/starting systems. I'd really appreciate a video showing how to replace a stator and R/R on a Suzuki Boulevard C90. I've been told that these bikes from 2005-2007 are notorious for stators burning out. I had one burn out on me while out riding and had to pay a fortune to get it replaced but I'd really like to know how to do it myself. thanks so much.
For a long time I have been asking myself why reluctors are so very different in length. Also you show us a reluctor that covers about 30% of the flywheel circumference and another with around 5%. What is the logic behind this? Thank you in advance for your reply. Keep up the good work!
good explanation ,thank you , i have a question about the alternator. while the startor motor is running the alternator is not working in the same speed while the motor of the motorcycle start running. my question is, whats is the the difference of voltage signal in both cases (motor spped, DC starter motor speed)? is it the frequecy ? if yes what is the frequency the alternator during the normal work ? and its standards in all the mocycles? Thank youu
Electric starter RPM can vary greatly, depending on the motor, compression, battery voltage and health, etc. I would say an electric starter would average around 600-700RPM. The voltage output from the stator would be very low (we don't test this way, but I would guess around ~5VAC). Idling RPM with the motor running would be around 1000-12000 RPM, in which case you would see stator voltages at 10-15VAC (no load on stator, unplugged from regulator). These are just generic numbers for a typical 3 phase battery charging stator on a motorcycle.
@@Rmstatorinc thank you for your specific information, in fact i'm trying to discriminate if the motor still running through the motor starter or running normally using its cycle, i'm doing a controller for a motorcycle. do you advise me to test this case with testing the alternator frequency (it's lesser cost in my control), or testing the alternator output voltage after and before the motor running? or current of the motor starter after and before motor running?
You are awesome, wish I knew this info 20 years ago. You make an impossible subject understandable to regular people. That takes patience and skill. My electrician is crazy, gets into measuring capacitors with his meter farads I think, that is where i jump ship. can you show us how to test rectifiers, or does it vary per application. Anyhow thanks for all you do.
Really? There are people that watched this and gave it a thumbs down? This was an awesome video with great explanation of how key components work. What a bunch of haters! Thumbs up all the way!
Brilliant! I always assumed it was just some kind of magic happening... Thanks for the thorough explanation! I'm stoked that I'll now know what all those wires do next time I'm wrenching.
You've put a lot of time into helping explain how all the mysterious components basically work. This video will help many people. A big thank you and a well done explanation
Great video! Excellent way of showing all the components and their function in a basic, not too detailed or confusing manner. You crammed a LOT of information into a relatively short video. Great job.
so we can run the engine without a stator , solong as we have a trigger & a battery supply even charging can be done separately with say a alternator . ? or a charging unit . is that correct I believe it is going from what you have explained , hear ?
Thanks for a very informative nice video of the electrical system, I have a vespa-scooter w GY6 motor EFI system that is behaving a bit strange lately, newly serviced and all but hard to start at times especially after a ride to the shop and wanting to start again, with battery cables from a car it jumps to start with ease but by itself not so...? What do you suggest in this case? Cheers from Sweden :-)
i have a 2013 rzr 900xp i'm having trouble getting it to start it will crank and crank but not start i have checked almost everything and replaced the fuel pump and check the injectors and they spray a v like it should and no codes shows up do u have any ideal what is wrong with my rzr
I would start by checking for spark. If you have no spark, it's very likely the crank position sensor that mounts to the top of the stator cover has failed. There is a test procedure for it in the service manual.
Very informative! I'm mid stator rectifier change on my bike and already have the parts, but this kind of detailed video and explanation will make me look at your company first for future purchases.
Excellent presentation -- nice clear explanations of each component. My only correction is in the rectifier / vreg, these are full wave bridges, and they do not 'throw away' the negative part of the wave, they flip it to be positive.
Very good presentation. You referenced a few things that I would like clarification on please : 1) I think you said a motorcycle could operate without a battery if you used a single phase stator wired to the regulator (the silver looking small box you showed.) Did I hear that correctly ?? 2) I have a 1973 Sportster - to convert it to run without a battery (kick start,) I assume I would have to change the stock stator to the single phase stator - true ?? 3) Am I dumb to want to eliminate the battery, and will cause more problems than it is worth ?? Your thoughts ?? Thank you for your info - it really helps !!
Sure, if you have AC/magneto ignition. On your harley, you require DC power for ignition. Your 73 ironhead will have a generator. You cannot power the field in the generator to produce DC power without a battery to begin with. There is not much point chasing a battery-less setup on this bike in my opinion. I recently sold my 76 ironhead, and I used a Cycle Electric generator which worked awesome!
Evan. I ordered a Stator for my 2005 KTM 950 adventure and its 3mm smaller in overall diameter to a OEM stator.. How would this affect charging? I received an answer that more space cools better. But somehow that doesn't seem entirely correct... Can you confirm?
Hi Ritchie, was this stator from us? Or somewhere else? I'm not aware of a different size core for the 950 Adventure, but it is possible. That will affect charging, but depends on the magnet strength as to how much. It likely could be a reliability improvement without sacrificing any noticeable power output. I ran one of our stators in my 2004 Adventure 950 for many miles with no problems a few years ago.
@@Rmstatorinc yes. It is your stator. It seems to be sufficient for charging voltage at idle through 5000 rpm. I appreciate your quick response. And my weekends research and diagnosis proves that all is well. Thanks for your fine product
This video was exactly what I needed and you are explaining it to the exact level that I needed it. THank you so much, I've never got as much good quality information from YouTueb before....and I live on RU-vid to learn. Thanks again!
Thanks so much.. Trying to understand this patiently for years through different formats.. Then in less than An hour .. A few eureka moments.. Top drawer stuff
Great video, I'm having problem with my 1100 vstar not getting a spark to plugs. Your explanation of this circuit gives me some idea where to look. Like the CDI, starter relay, or kill switch. Thanks
so i have bought 3 brand new stators from 3 different dealers and did the static test on all of them and got 0.000 ohms on all 3 i should be getting 0.1 to 1.0 on these tests are these stators bad or is it something else
If you are getting test results of 0.00 ohms on all 3 stators, it is very unlikely all are bad. You most likely have your multimeter set at too high of a resistance range. Set the meter to the lowest range possible, 2, 20, 200, etc to do this test. You will get a more accurate measurement, likely between the 0.3-1.0 or so that is expected.
The stator grommet is primarily to keep oil inside the crankcase from getting out, but it certainly does seal against water and dirt from getting in. Thanks!
HOLY CRAP thank you so much i was having trouble with my sxs an explaining how i thought it worked to my friend who was trying to help me get it runing now i understand it a lot better thank you
I have a couple of questions in regards to the CDI . Are most CDI's basically the same? and the only thing would make one different from the other is the plug? also is there such thing as a universal cdi/regulator ? the setup for my Korea 450 is ridiculously high priced seam like there would be something aftermarket that would work for about $20
The general functionality of most CDI's are the same, but there are just too many specifics to assume one will work with any given system. What do you have? I can try and match something up for you.
I need your opinion regarding an issue on my scooter. I´m having a strange behavior on my scooter (SYM VS 125 2010): If I disconnect the connector with 3 yellow wires from stator to rectifier, the engine works fine. If I connect it, the engine misfiring at 4000 rpm. What is the normal output voltage on 3 yellow wires from the stator? I'm getting 26V on idle and almost 100V at 4000 rpm. Exactly when the engine starts to fail. Isn't it too much? I've checked continuity on coils (ok), replaced the rectifier and battery. Bad stator? Another suggestion?
Hello. Thank you for the comprehensive. Video. First of its kind. I have a Royal Enfield Classic 350. Please help me with this. The pulser coil shows resistance reading of 370 to 385 Ohm. Service manual says it should be between 180 to 240 ohms. Rest the stator coil resistance reading is within normal range. Motorcycle shows poor idle...misfire. New spark plugs....new plug caps. Ignition coil resistance also within normal range. Do reply 👍👍
Great video. Appreciate the time effort and detail put into the explanation and editing. Very understandable due to the speaker breaking it down to a level of knowledge to that of a person with little to no prior knowledge of these systems.
Thanks! Yes we will do a more in depth video on ignition systems and CDI boxes in the future. They are not generally able to be tested easily unfortunately.
Hello, A great video thank you very much. I'm still struggling on a few points however. You show in your diagram 2x wires running into the CDI from the pulser coil and 2x wires running to the CDI from the source coil, however my CDI only has a single pin for each. One pin for AC power in (source coil) and one pin for Trigger coil (pulser coil) in. Are the remaining wires to go to earth? this is what I believe to complete the circuit? Thank you!
Hi Can you help me with a problem that I have with my Yamaha V star 110 2006 I changed the Regulator rectifier and and when I started The meter start start showing it was 13.23v That's with the motorcycle It's on idle. When I crack the RP m's around 15 or 20 the Boulder the voltage goes up to 15.23 But that's normal for that type of motorcycle I'm afraid that could burn cables cables or even the battery can you help me please
Age 61 and just now have a clue on all these electrically and ignition parts! Pretty easy to follow also with the way you were explaining all of it together
Nice video , I was looking for someone expert about electric system , because I have a scouter with a problem some time . I have a scooter SYM Symphony 150 , sometimes when I stop a bike just for a short time for shopping doesn't start , the battery run but doesn't start , with the kick also doesn't start , I try with electric start many times and than I stop to don't damage the battery , after 3-4 hours rest I try again to start with electric start and it start very quickly and than I don't have any problem for long time , does anybody knows what is the problem ? Not only my bike has this problem also a friend of mine has the same bike and same problem . Where I live the mechanic are very expensive and not expert , to fix my bike maybe they suggest to buy a new one . Does anyone can help me ? Thank you very much for helping me .
your circuit sketch that showed a DC - powered CDI was an eye opener. i'd not known there was such a thing. makes sense tho. as whe world has been going digital for a long time. and the stator design that uses a fine-wire coil for the ignition is pretty much old-school my XT-225 stator is the weak link is the entire ignition system. there is one fine - wire coil on the stator. 3 - wire. that goes to the CDI module. it has failed repeatedly. would you know of a DC - CDI that would work on it ? most any that is for a 1-cylinder 2- or 4- cycle engine should work. the engine firing coil was worked all along without fail or , better yet , have you a ckt-diag of the inner parts in a AC-CDI ? with that i can take the 3-phase 16VAC off the stator and boost it up to the 100 V. the CDI is expecting. or use a different external circuit that does DC:DC with a flyback txfr. this is something i already have. and use it to test either a spark plug or the coil . very handy item to have. runs off a 9V battery or up to 12V. DC
The black wore on my rectifier is not giving me voltage when the key is on. It is connected to the ground side of many switches. Can you help me diagnose?
Maybe someone can help me. I have a 2007 Chinese quad but I cannot figure out what kind even from the badge and checking google. I think it's an Upbeat anyway the yellow wire from the stator is spliced into two when are the yellow wires goes to the rectifier in the other one is just dangling
Thank you for teaching me. You obviously know more than I do but I have the advantage of standing in an idiots shoes and with the little I know may be able to help explain even better through colaberating. I believe I am better at explaining or teaching thoroughly to an uneducated student. With your complete understanding it is easy to omit what may be needed to have a complete understanding. An example of this is the word rotating and stationary. Adding one word to all your words completes a true definition of what and why. A student should be considered a blank canvas and it may be beneficial to begin by adding….electrical current is generated by sliding a magnet (or is it a magnetic field )down a wire and a wire with a current flowing through it creates a magnet (or is it a magnetic field). I am neither an engineer nor an electrician and have no formal education and surely might need correction by you. I believe Woodruff keys are not always crescent shaped and I believe their slots are keyways not Woodruff keyways. I know of a group of 50k people you may not be reaching that your products and videos will apply to just like me. Thank you again and sell me a few things.
Who makes your RR VG units for you? I've purchased one of your series mosfet ones and installed onto my Aprilia Tuono. Seems like a good unit and just curious who actually constructs them? Cheers
Can a stator fail due to heat? I have an 03 sportster, as soon as it gets hot I lose power. New battery, ignition module, regulator & coil wires & plugs. Multimeter tests on the stator look pretty normal, but its the oem 2003 stator, and the only component I haven't changed, but dont know if stators are known to fail when getting hot or if I should be looking for the issue elsewhere. If you guys could shine any light on this I would truly appreciate it. Either way, happy new year and keep on killin it guys
This is a great video. One question. I have a three coil stator. Would a bad ground connection prevent the stator from sending signal to my cdi box? The bolt head broke for my new stator so I attached it else where else. I put everything back together and have no spark. Could a bad ground connection be my problem ?
Amazing video. I can really conceptualize how the CDI ignition system works now. Was wondering if you could share a video on how a TCI ignition system works or suggest a link. Thanks!
I have a Polaris Ranger 800 that won’t charge a battery no matter that everything tests good and the parts cannon has been fired. Is it possible for the flywheel to lose magnetism enough to not allow sufficient charging amperage? Have you seen this before? This comment section is probably not monitored but it’s driving me nuts.
Great video. I learned a lot. Just one minor correction regarding rectifiers and rectification. The negative portion of the AC wave is indeed cut off but only in circumstances where a HALF WAVE rectifier is used. The negative portion of the wave IS NOT cut off when using a full wave or bridge rectifier.
My kill switch doesn't kill motor and key switch now I see it's part of CDI circuit / my yy150t uses the power from brake sw to power starter switch and the starter button closed the ground to synoid .
I get when it starts, the battery powering out the whole ignition thing But after the piston kicks in , which part of electricity energize the whole thing? The battery or magnetic coil?
I've been having a problem for three years at least.... I can't get anybody to answer..... the plug on the stator was ripped off so I have three yellow wires one of which has a red stripe on it... I need to know what order the wires go so I can connect it into the new part I bought but nobody can seem to tell me I also am curious as to why each one of the yellow wires carries a different current from low to high.... is that the order that I'm supposed to put them in I clearly have no knowledge about electrical or any of that stuff so I need somebody to explain it to me like a five-year-old... it's a Polaris Predator 500
