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There are several reasons to make sure the oil is fresh, but if you have to do it to get the temperatures down then there are other problems that should be fixed.
@@anteneupitra For a modern engine (and cooling system), yes, is good. But this Lada cooling system is different, not pressurised that mutch than some modern system.
@@joey9511 My sister competed in racing and the oil was replaced probably every race. My cousin married a guy who competed in offshore racing. There were two Lamborghini V12 engines in his competition boat and they were rebuilt between each competition. If you are really racing seriously then running old nasty oil isn't something that will happen. Now there are classes where less professional racing occurs, but again I think most everyone competing will serve their cars decently so nasty oil shouldn't be a really bad thing. Keeping the coolers clean and the coolant well topped off is an easier way to keep the temperatures under control. And unless you are really beating that car badly and replace the oil before it clogs the engine it should still work.
I bet a lot of people in Brasil already know this, but: When a motor gets older, parts wear, space between parts increase and so more heat is generated by friction. If you use a thicker oil, space fills up, less heat is generated by friction and you might even get a few horsepowers back.
You should do a video comparing standard weight and heavier weight oil in a worn out engine. I've always wondered if thicker oil was better for worn components
It is indeed my corolla has 330000 miles and it has some valve chatter if you run straight 5/30 but with a half a bottle of Lucas it's quiet as can be, there's a guy who ran gear oil in his engine and the only noticeable difference was the smell from the Sulphur in it
Yes, works. I haven't tried myself, but I'm subscribed to multiple channels that revive 30, 40, 50 year old machines (bulldozers, excavators, trucks, cars, motorbikes, lawnmowers, boats, whatever). Most of them don't even try the type of oil that's in the manual, but immediately go for thicker oil instead.
My friend used to have this little Austin Metro he'd rag up and down the dirt track. We'd just leave the top off the coolant expansion tank and let it boil so the pressure didn't rise crazy high. We'd bring a big bottle of water and keep topping it up as it boiled off. That evaporative cooling really works well if you're driving hard for extended periods at low speed. Should have tried that with the car you were redlining in first around an empty car park.
My favorite trick for very quickly cooling down your engine, is if you have a container of water, even just a liter bottle, you very slowly pour it across the front top of the radiator back and forth, so as the water gets pulled through by the fan and is getting the radiator core wet, you can be surprised by how fast it drops, and it will then allow you to open the radiator if you need to top it up, but of course you still have to make sure the pressure has dropped enough first, some modern vehicles don't allow great access for this, but if you have a garden hose available, you can cool any radiator
Suggestion for future videos: 1-Flush and fill radiator while engine is running. 2- Try computer coolant in a car. 3-Replace car radiator with a bunch of computer CPU heat sinks. 4-Replace car radiator fan with 120mm computer fans. 5-Change spark plugs while engine is running. 6-Change automatic transmission fluid while transmission is in gear and engine running.
My Jeep with a 5.7 engine was always overheating out on the trails - not enough air going through the radiator at slow speeds, and no larger radiator available. I installed an oil cooler with an additional large oil filter and a bypass Amsoil oil filter (yes, it has three oil filters now) and no more overheating. Oh, and very clean oil but more expensive oil changes. The needle doesn't even think about getting into the overheating portion of the gauge.
The dean of the mechanic school i went to told our class a long story of alot of mechanics trying to find a reason for a car overheating in a shop he worked at and everyone was stumped they called in a guy from another shop and he said instantly “was there a fan shroud stock on these cars?” Problem solved
Yup, it wasn't a well know thing bank in the day. They do make a HUGE difference. Because instead of pulling air through the radiator without a shroud, it pulls hot air from between the fan and radiator. Makes perfect sense. Also, to find a plugged radiator, I've let it run until it overheats, and spray water on the radiator to see if it drops. Although not a 100% accurate test, it helps narrow it down. Because if it was the thermostat, the temp would hardly drop at all.
With older cars people would toss them and leave them off for easier access to belts, not knowing that they were creating an overheating situation next time they got stuck in summer traffic.
A flush radiator and new coolant works well also, also oil changes when needed. And make sure to have a good working thermostat!👋😂 I can go on and on! Great tip though!
I remember that this was a thing back in the 80's. Haven't seen it available for modern cars, only for engines using the old style of a single ignition coil for all the cylinders.
@@MEMORIA1991 I mean you could stick a pair of msd 44 mags on one but the spark doesn't necessarily increase power unless the fuel mixture is extremely dense like a top fuel car, would be pretty cool to be able to weld on the go by disconnecting a plug wire and slapping a welding rod into it tho. Ignition systems are the most often overlooked part of most builds because factory spark is made for longevity of plugs and fuel efficiency not power
Try driving without airflow through the radiator on the coldest day of the year, removing he fan and blocking the grille so the only airflow while driving comes from the bottom of the engine bay. Can you drive without a working cooling system in the most extreme cold?
I have a similar experiment at work, although not on purpose :D Corrosion causes the cooling fins to fall out. How many need to remain that the thing can still do its work :D
In Chicago USA when it was -10F we would put a piece of “cardboard” in front of radiator to get heat in the car. (I think the thermostat was stuck open, was an older Chevy 327 engine)
@@mann_idonotreadreplies if it's stuck open you have to do that. I had an old car with a thermostat that failed on me and I didn't feel like changing it when it was so cold so I put a box in front of the rad. Haha
Ugh my cooling system in my 1974 Dodge 440 v8 is disgusting and the block is coated with sludge and dirt. Plus I drive every day in 115° Arizona desert heat. TIME TO FLUSH IT OUT.
Is it possible to overcool the engine? What will happen if we use 2 radiators or more? 5 or 6 radiators on a Lada engine will keep the temperature low, but how low? Is it possible to lower the engine's temperature to ambient temperature? What will happen I the engine temperature doesn't pass 20°C?
Leaving the bonnet on would have gotten it heating up faster too, a lot of heat gets trapped in an engine bay, which can add to the overheating problem if things aren't kept optimal, and said trapped heat is why those under-bonnet cone filter "cold air intakes" are an utter joke cos they're sucking in that performance-killing hot engine bay air instead, less dense air means less bang in the cylinders... :P
Next test idea. With all of the "Snake Oil" fluids on the market. What fuel additive actually works to help clean/ improve the fuel system and slighy cleans the piston heads.
Could've first cleaned the engine and then cooler separately. I don't think clean or dirty engine block does anything on a liquid cooled car, especially more modern. I think too much risk of corroded electronics. All of the heat is meant to be dumped in the cooler and the difference might be there.
russian winter is on the negative double digits, Napoleon's soldiers lost the buttons on their uniforms because tin alloys break down on extreme cold, and a couple centuries later, the other guy lost tanks and boots to cold
Well, it's usually nothing fancy, along the lines of putting a piece of cardboard behind the radiator grille. Though Yakutia and other colder regions do require a bit more than that (so to answer your question - it can get pretty chilly).
I have been there a couple of times in both winter and summer times with my wife to visit her relatives and -30/40°C was the coldest I experienced there. In summer, it can be the same with a +, even if it is pretty rare
I have a good video idea for you guys! You have made a few of those spoof "magnet engines" in the past, but there is 1 style of magnet engine that actually works: "Electromagnetic Engine" (you can find videos of small "plunger" versions on youtube). A coil of house wire wrapped around the cylinder, a magnet for a piston, apply a voltage to the coil and it pulls (or with reverse polarity, pushes) the magnet piston. There is a lot of room for testing and experimentation like the gauge of wire used for the coil, solid or stranded, copper or aluminum etc. A simple hall sensor can trigger the coils for timing (or other methods such as an arduino, relays etc.). Would a pulsed coil(electromagnetic engine) be more efficient than a constant drive such as an electric motor etc.
Depends on the Area.. In the desert they dont even have a thermostat.. In the cold, you run a thermostat for heat exchange through a heater core.. The more the fluid warms up the more heat you get.. Also Thermostats run at different temps.. In America its between 160-195 F..
thermostats are also there to keep engine at a specific temp that is ideal for the engines economy and emissions, putting in a thermostat that opens to low of a temp compared to oem specs can cause extra wear as the engine cant warm up properly and decreased gas mileage. yes it depends on environmental conditions as well but its something to keep in mind
SOULWARRIOR, Don't BS others with your misinformation!! NOBODY living in the desert removes their thermostat; it would completely disrupt ALL coolant flow around the engine and make cooling much worse! I live in outback Australia where air temps. in summer get to +52C (that's 126 Fahrenheit for idiots like you). And what even is a "heater core " ?? The cabin heater element is directly connected to the engine, it has nothing to do with the thermostat element!
I have a weird problem with my car. Whenever I rev it above 4000 RPMs it's like the cooling system just disables and it almost immediately overheats within a few seconds. But if I keep the RPMs below 4,000 then it will never overheat. Does anyone have any idea what's wrong with my car?
The heater trick is a all time classic I would add that a big chunk of the viewers - especially if they're from hotter Climates in some point they removed the thermostat and bypass the heater all together since those are usually the first things to fail in older cars 😉
@@vesatapola7908 that not true my car run wit no thermostat and it fine and run for 8 year and no problem no leak oil and nathing no thermostat is good on hot country .
power to weight ratio will be a pain in the buttoffsky, choppers and drones need very light motors with very high horsepower ratings, such as two strokes, aluminium and turbo charged engines (choppers dumped piston engines in favor of turbines for that reason), and Lada engines aren't light, still cast iron blocks are heavy, and 4 cylinder seem low power.
A small note about my last comment: There are 2 styles of these "electromagnetic engines" the solenoid style, and the style that acts more like a relay. The solenoid style has good revs, is simpler, but very low torque as it is just a coil attracting an iron piston. The relay style is a coil with a solid iron core, and a magnet piston for a significant torque increase. The coil would sit directly above the cylinder spaced by a couple mm. When energized in one direction it pulls the piston up, then when the polarity is swapped it will push the piston down. This gives the engine double the power strokes!
PS: You can remove the iron core and have the magnet pass THROUGH the coil, This would be a third style of motor, called a "linear motor" as changing the magnet field will change the location of the piston in the coil. There is one more advantage to these engines, the power strokes are constant torque! With a conventional engine the strokes are pulsed(a single explosion) vs the electric ones which have the coil powered all the way through the stroke.
@@mann_idonotreadreplies Thanks.. Except it's truth, not a story. If you have issues with detailed explanations, I'd say that says more about you than it does me.
they would have to cnc mill an engine block. not gonna happen. I reckon a v4 lada could be possible, since the crank would be untouched. move two con rods out sideways at 90 degrees, mill out the main bearings on the extra block and weld up a 90 degree engine sump from mild steel to bolt both blocks to.
@@android584 well, it's not like I was entirely serious ;) yes, certain ideas are, let's just say, questionable, but there have been some pretty amazing videos even recently (as there have been some pretty bad ones back when this channel was going really viral in the late 2010's).
@@android584 makes sense. Payout is better on a 10+ minute video. So I have heard the last 4 years or so anyway. Ofc there are other factors, but yeah ...
I have a similar experiment at work, although not on purpose :D Corrosion causes the cooling fins to fall out. How many need to remain that the thing can still do its work :D
