Try technical vaseline. It's melting point is way lower than the melting point of grease. The vaseline should stay in it's liquid form while the engine is operating.
Vlad bro I’m from America, I watch every video y’all make, just want to send much love to you and everyone in the shop, oh and of course it’s gonna run, it’s a LADA! lol 😂
Weld a couple of fittings for heater elements in the pan running around with a 10 kw v twin to keep the grease hot . Try lard , melts lower and insulation on the pan .
Or maybe a few large alternators five or six ..... that would require more throttle to keep it hot a circulate . Heated dipstick too . And maybe next month when it thaws a little more....
I don't know my thoughts are the bearings are already smoked, being since they ride on a thin film of oil and not actually metal on metal contact itself if there is zero oil pressure I don't believe the bearings got away with it.
At time stamp 12:43, my prediction is once the engine is cleaned up and refilled with oil, I'm calling rattling, lots and lots of rattling followed by tons of smoke and a none pleasant scent exiting the exhaust.
@@ashwiensewpersad2927 that's not what I'm talking about ..I know what a runaway engine is and I'm talking about using engine oil filtering it and the using it instead of diesel and see how they compare
COULD YOU HAVE FOUND A WAY TO HEAT THE SUMP, on a permanent basis thus keeping the oil thin enough to be fed round the engine. My father when in the URALS made a sump heating system so he did not have to leave the truck running and get it stolen also the same for the batteries not bad for an old Bedford TK truck that worked as well as the Kamaz's of the time.
You need to fill an engine with bacon grease. Project farm has done it with a lawn mower, but a full size car would be awesome. Plus it will SMELL AMAZING!!
I use out-of-date vegetable oil in my mower as lubricant. Because of the hot climate it's fine for most of the year. It solidifies in the cold though. It's an old mower that burns some oil, so I figured "Why not?". No problems so far.
@@ImmortanJoeCamel I've been wanting to add a small amount of bacon grease to my engine, because it apparently has cleaning properties. Of course my concern is cooler temperatures and protection on start up. It may make a great engine flush while warm!
Have you tried differential fluid/gear oil. 80w90 or 90w140 like we have in hotter climates? I also think the Lada has life left. A bit of diesel or cleaners in the crank case would clean it right out and 1 or 2 oil changes will do the job.
i had an old van with a 350 small block in it, it had an oil leak so i though i might put something thicker in there to slow the leak down. i ended up running it on pure 120w gear oil and it ran just fine, i didn't even notice the difference.
The pump is completely able to push the grease through the system! The problem is suction! The viscosity of the grease is what prevents the pump from getting grease by allowing a path to air.
@@alteredstateskustomit did not clog the pickup, but the grease is so thick that it doesn’t run back down to the pickup fast enough. It stays in an "inverted mountain" shape, where the grease stays on the sides of the oil pan, but not around the pickup. It’s as if you dig a hole in the sand. The pickup sucks air and once it has air in it, it struggles to re-prime the pump. Trust me, I’ve tried, but with palm oil not lithium grease. Also it will clog the filter, but I assume they’re using bypass filters like everyone else, so a clogged filter wouldn’t cause oil starvation.
The filter has a built in bypass valve that opens when the difference in inlet oil pressure is high enough over the filter outlet pressure, to prevent the filter from stopping flow to the engine when clogged. Replacing the filter made no difference because the filter bypasses the grease as soon as it clogs, when any grease reaches the filter, since the problem is pump intake.
@n325aej it is plugged with the only lubricant that is in the engine. Removing some of that lubricant would just mean there is less. In this case, the filter is clogging with the grease, so changing it would mean the new one clogs immediately and just goes to bypass like the the previous filter.
Hey guys, have you ever tried running an engine on GRAPHITE Powder? Add a fair amount of graphite powder to existing engine oil then after a good run, drain the oil and watch how long it holds without seizing. Thank you guys for the awesome videos. keep it up
Paused just when Vlad said to do so. As a mechanic myself, I'm pretty convinced that it's gonna keep on running for a while, but some damage must've taken place. Also, great video guys!
Nah I don't think there's going to be any extra damage, grease requires more temperature than a motor can produce to burn away, and it's a better lubricant than oil the rods should be fine
Not sure why but I expected this to be done with the grease heated way up and used as a fuel. Was scratching my head trying to figure out how that'd be possible
When you basically have to heat the stuff to autoignition temperature, it's clear from the beginning you're going to have problems using it as lubricant.
I dunno if I'd try it for increasing oil pressure though. How about you? My '68 Plym. Fury's 318 has low oil pressure. I'll likely go with something a bit more tried & tested.
@@UberLummox increasing oil pressure is not something I'm after. Actually I try to lower oil pressure most of the time (too much oil pressure = increased losses) If an engine needs something to maintain oil pressure, it usually means the bearings are worn. And it's usually not that difficult of a repair. As a temporary fix, lithium grease, manual transmission oil, or any thick oil you can find will to the job. I'm sure lithium grease will blend in the oil and stay that way. The problem is mixing it correctly the first time. So 75w80 transmission oil or something like that is safer as it will not clog up the pump. But do remember that the pistons are splash lubricated, and as the oil becomes thicker, they just don't get as much oil! So, changing you big ends bearings can be a better solution. Most of the time you just need to drop the oil pan.
I did this with a lawn mower but mixed 90w gear oil and grease 50/50, it stopped smoking and rattling , then I mixed 90w gear lube 20:1 for a two stroke lawn mower it doubled the compression and made it more difficult to start, but golly did it ever go.
might've been some toxic fumes it released, 2 stroke oil is designed so anything inside it when burned or gasified doesn't give your cancer more cancer.
My history teacher once told me, that he as a young mechanic was told to put a couple of bananas into the gearbox of a Lada Niva with bad synchronizers. Apparently it worked, and the gearbox shifted better. Would be interesting to see you test this claim. Who knows, - maybe bananas will work on a bad diff as well?
EXCELLENT IDEA. Hope to see it. But as to why it's a "bad" idea, ball bearings have significantly lower torque/impact resistance than bearings as the contact area is hundred times smaller. So as soon as ignition starts, the balls would dent the bearing surfaces and make the bearing self destruct. They'd have to use cylindrical bearings, and even they wouldn't be very happy with such high vibration, impact load. It'll work ok at start but they'll go dry due to inability to supply them with fresh oil, followed by fast wear (~1 month max usage).
@@99domini99 *small* engines, in which there isn't as extreme load as big engines. There's a reason old steam machines didn't touch ball bearings even though they did exist. Even modern industry doesn't even use ball bearings for big heavy equipment, they use pressurized oil film in a solid bronze/babbit/steel casing.
@@99domini99 ye and i'm being a cunt and trying to rub it in that bearings only work on small engines because on big engines they'll get wrecked. BUT I do want to see them get wrecked.
should try Castor Oil like engines from the olden days and maybe aircraft grade single weight oils both 50 weight & 70 weight oils or run an engine on Rear Differential Oil
@@ronwalsh this should be standard practice taught to techs. I'm sure if I went to a lubricant store they would decline to sell the product to me and laugh.
«Тут техніки стояло стільки, що я не знаю, чого вони так тікали». Як відвойовують позиції в росіян ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5mi2HfMtyOI.html
I knew a guy in 1995 did that to his Chevy in Columbus Ohio he told me the next day after his engine froze up and I tore down and rebuilt his engine lots of damage after his stunt lol I am interested to see what happens if you stop while the engine still works.
Hehe run over stick man aka Soviet Superior Sign of Quality, a funny thing in itself when a visiting chap from Moscow would arrive at factory, give manager a little award and permission to use the pentagon shaped logo, manager would then show visiting Moscow man tour of factory whilst his designers rabidly ran about trying to find a way to put the said logo into the design of item and after tour the manager would be half dead from exhaustion and would show dignitary new design which if approved everyone broke out the wodka and for a while the item produced would adorn the logo but in reality it was used as a trick to con westerners to buy Soviet goods which is why watches ended up with a lot of these logo's on casebacks. Westerners were not fooled, they knew Soviet product was still rough but that was how the Sovet Superior Sign of Quality came about...
LOL this is a terrible idea - I used to add 80w90 in my shitbox in high school (we had an abundance of it, and regular oil was cheap) and at the end of that year the engine was pissing oil out of every seal due to the much higher pressures in the block. Don't do this unless you care not for your engine.
You should drop the 3 compression ring pistons into the diesel injection pump Lada and see if it performs even better. Higher compression and better atomization can't ever go wrong.
I'm no expert but I predict it smokes like mad then conks out...we will see.. having watched now I realised when you say run, you mean as engine oil not fuel. Try actually running a diesel on it!!!
And people are affraid to use 20w50, as "too thick to run" ... Come On! This grease is about SAE 5000 when in its original paste or SAE 600 when liquid (way of speaking, of course) at 160C, not a problem to run a mere 50.
Years ago I read a story in some classic car magazine where a columnist discussed an experience he had when a young man in the 1950's. He and a friend had an old car on a road trip to get home as broke college kids. They were driving a 1930's model Ford model B if I can remember right. Anyways on the trip the engine had a bad oil leak. Back in the old days service stations would sell filtered USED motor oil for a dirt cheap price. The guys stopped constantly like every 20-50 miles adding quarts of oil to replace what was being lost quickly. Finally they got sick of it and told a service station worker to pump the entire engine full of grease. The claim is after this they made in the rest of the trip and made it home just fine. Although it wasn't only maybe 50-100 miles. Back then I don't think oil filters were a thing. And I'm sure tolerences in the bearings were quite large.
This is quite pointless, the idea is to substitute oil with something simpler, cheaper, more available, and easier to install than the original. Grease it's not user friendly, unlike the pig fat they've tried a while ago 😄.
could have saved yourself some work by just dumping some oil in to the engine grease will mix with oil so mixing it 1:1 before pouring it in would have made a thin grease that might have even worked
The grease probably cleaned up alot of carbon deposits and no doubt the bit left over dissolved in the oil making it thicker and lubing the piston rings I wonder how the cylinder compression went
*has 1 pound of oil pressure* “oh yea boy, that’s some good stuff, plenty of pressure” *has 0 pounds* “oh crap that’s not good it’s gonna blow aaaaahhhhh”
i once lived in a very hot country where they used 80w90 gear oil in worn engines , these engines were doing 300k miles plus on this oil . so are all these expensive oils we use in the west pure marketing , and are we being used as idiot money spinners for huge oil companies?
First I thought it was going to work because modern engines run hotter at 230 degrees. And now after running it should be fine as it was running when you turn it off. But whatever damage or ware has Ben done if any.
Might be hard to import to Russia but I'd be interested to see a Lada run on pure stp additive. I've seen small generators run pretty much on straight stp
@@redlinearroyo847 Customer States What... did a video with someone who only used oil additives and the oil pain was straight black petroleum jelly. Don't use that stuff
