I do not give f... for anyone. I use it for my home. Of course heater outside my house. Only the hot air duct comes in house. Last winter it cost me £ 300 keep myself warm.
hi there nice idee to make a movie over this diesel heater but i think there are plenty of them all to gether and if you do it make sure that you give all the corect info but realy if you still want any tip or tricks for this heater please contact me greatings from holland
The reason the remote is removable is because it is the thermostat. If you make or buy an extension then you can take the remote screen in the tent and the heater will cycle on and off just like your furnace at home.
Only if the controller is set to turn on at a certain temperature. It would completely turn on at 50 degrees if that’s what you set it at. Then turn off at 52. You cannot adjust the power though in this mode. It’s only high 5.5 . So it would always be turning on and off. Not like a thermostat in your home. Also starting it runs at 9 amps not 14 amps
Not all 12v power ports are created equal. I have the same heater - 5kw Vevor. My Bluetti AC200P runs it just fine. Even runs off the car port on my old Jackery 500. I do know that the Bluetti 12v port will put out more amps than the Jackery tho - experience from other devices. Something else you could look into is if your 12v power system in the Toyota is affected by the fuel pump. When I’m running my heater from the high amp RV 12v port on the Bluetti AC200P, the fuel pump makes my Hardkorr lights flicker. I had to put the lights on a voltage regulator to fix that. Good luck!
Put a deep cycle battery in the tend ( be sure to have sit on some sort of insulator so the cold ground don't drain it ) run the line out to the heater. I can get three-four nights out of one charge. Also please use a CO alarm, dont trust your life to that unit.....
The original air-heating devices for these chinese "clones" are Webasto AirTops from Germany (with deutsch quality, of course!). Actually, I bought AirTop 5500 and created such a thing by myself. It's not so beautiful-looking and fancy but much sturdier and have a little bigger fuel tank. Another thing is fuel selection... Webasto have two types of heaters: working on diesel and working on gas. I chose the latter because diesel can freeze on cold weather (if it's not "arctic"), and the heater will be useless when it is most needed.
For replacement gaskets, buy a set and use a computer scanner to scan them. Then go to a auto supply and buy gasket material and copy the replacement gasket by running the gasket scan to your printer. Save the gasket scan to a flash drive and anytime you need a gasket you can print it and cut it out.
These are originally heaters for vehicles that were air-cooled like bolt wagons. So they'll work off of a vehicle's charging system. No problem, but you want a separate deep cycle battery With an isolating switch. so you don't drain your vehicle.
Ok... I'm impressed. You bought a new toy and completely tore it apart, just to see how it worked. I had been wondering about the max capacity of the 12v plugs that some of these things come with. Seems like an Anderson Plug is the logical answer. Thanks for being the community guinea pigs... again. Looking forward to the cold weather test/review.
what you have there is the upgraded fuel line, the green line they usually come with melts from the exhaust heat, stick with what you have its saving you money in upgrading it. dont be fooled into thinking the warm air stream doesnt mix with combustion fumes, carbon monoxide has been known to come out of the glow plug breather hole seep past the glow plug rubber sealer and into the hot air stream at around 33 parts per million, so a carbon monoxide alarm in your living space is essential. 50 parts per mllion is when an alarm would normally sound but that means evacuate the living space as soon as possible and ventilate the room, 33 parts per million can kill you slowley over 12 hours and you wont smell it or taste it in the air. so please get yourself a carbon monoxide alarm for your living space, even people using these in tents are using them. put some 4 x 2s under the heater to give it more ground clearence for the exhaust pipe.
It draws so much at first start up because of the glow plug. Look into a simple circuit that cN limit the draw going specifically to the glow plug or maybe make some sort of bypass switch that you can jump start it off your AC adapter than switch to the DC port on the battery pack at idle
Running the fan for about a minute or two will allow the combustion chamber to burn the carbon out so it doesn’t build up carbon combustion chamber,reduces the need for cleaning.
Yes and no about the exhaust. Yes, it should be angled downward, but once these heaters are up and running, I personally can't picture any moisture buildup. That pipe gets super HOT, enough that it should be evaporating any moisture in the pipe.
The fuel line is supposed to be hard. The fuel pump pulses and a soft line will expand and a lot of the pushing energy will be lost. Search for John Mck47 on you tube. He does a great job of explaining everything about these heaters. He even show you how to compute fuel usage with out measuring.
I love how you guys work together. And how she asked if your videoing this to put it back together. 😂 And these diesel heaters are awesome. I use one every day in my semi.
I installed one in my garage 3 years ago, It works flawlessly. It just isn't enough to heat a 24x24 garage with 10 foot ceiling in -40, but it does take some of the edge off.
I got the 8kw short and fat one. Sits way nicer. Wouldn't mind doing the pelican case or maybe the HF equivalent to it for portability. The already sell those systems for cheap but the plastic is cheap. Plus side of that. All hardware is there to move over to a better case.
I service the Espar units at work. These knockoffs aren't far off from them. Interchangeable parts and such. Either system doesn't like to sit all summer then expect it to work as needed 10 months later.
Only my Goal Zero would run mine. The 12v is rated to 15amp, all of my other power stations are hard limit of 10amp. These units are very efficient however draw more power on start up and shutdown.
Very good, we have seen others install these heaters but no one ever took it apart. Thanks for the last video about replacing the PCV valve mine was really in there I used a small beaker bar and oil. I replaced the ones on the 60&40 series they weren’t much easier guess I should replace them more often thanks again
my iceco fridges wont run off cig socket either so they sell a little step up unit so you can. might look at that, would probably need to cut the fridge end off and put your end on it
Hi, Your footage is great. Just curious does the outside of the black internal outlet pipe get hot. Does it matter if its close to wood on a cupboard or any pipe work. Thanks
Yeah be careful with that controller the wire going into the bottom where they solder to the circuit board and they’re not secured to the base of the controller so they will pull out really easy then you’re gonna have to buy a new controller if you can’t solder the wires back on. then you’re going to be paying $80 for a new controller . To be safe so you don’t pull the wires out overtime with minimal use of manipulating the controller I would put some RTV clear the port where the wires go in to keep that wires I’m pulling out not a very good design there needs to be a wire keeper to the base of that controller not sure if that’s how it is on this particular model but I bought a VVKB for $800.00 just a year ago and I’ve only used the unit a couple dozen times now the controller is disabled.
Would have been a pretty great video if the condescending woman was removed from it. She demeaned him the whole time. And she thinks it was funny. What a vile person.
I’m curious is the glow plug working all the time or does It get the diesel ignited and then turn off with the combustion continuing from the fuel that is now burning.
does not tell me how it works . but my guess is it works like an oil furnace . you have a spark that ignites fuel that is sprayed into a chamber . the hot flame of the oxidized fuel mist burn heats the chamber which radiates heat to the fins which do the heat exchange . like a furnace , i would imagine there is a lot of wasted heat out the exhaust
I installed one without the metal cabinet into my 1978 vw bus camper, the fuel tank is under the single jump seat, while the main heater unit is mounted under the bed and plumbed the hot air side out from under the kick panel works fantastic in there!
What about the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning, from having to have the unit so close to the tent from the exhaust side of things. And the flexible black heater hose looks incredibly short to stretch the hose inside a tent. Am I wrong on all these points? ? Just wondering for safety sake.
There's very little exhaust emissions so getting in the tent shouldn't be much of a problem. I would still like the heater at least five feet away though. The hose that comes with it is complete junk. We got a different one that extends out to six feet.
Depending on the diameter on the unit you may be able to adapt a copper 90 on there ? If one does happen to slide on can put 3 slices and use a clamp. Then stub it out and put a union on it to remove the rest of exhaust when needed. I think the filter and hoses and hard line and good clamps replacement would prevent a cold night.
I glad y’all took that thing apart so I don’t have to. Your wife is so beautiful and sweet. I’m glad she okayed it. And I’m really glad y’all got it back together. I haven’t seen y’all’s Chanel before but I’ll subscribe. I think you two are a pretty cool couple. God bless you in all you do. ❤
One of our friends has one for cold weather camping. If you can get past nasty diesel liquids it's really good. We all ended up with a small Honda Generator and electric blankets, though.
Man that thing is noisy,I guess when you have everything in one unit like this you have to put up with the sound. I got my pump with my diesel heater outside so I don’t hear it.
I have the biggest smile, she had me rolling, and I quote: are you taking a video? I roll, and then he pointed up and said yeah, it's up there! Merry Christmas, and thanks for the chuckle.
12volt 10 amp for startup 12 volt 5 amps for active heating 12 volts 1 amp for passive heating Its best to use the thermostat mode set the Deuter temp rather than use the h1 through h6 constant heat mode. In thermostat mode it works like a regular house furnace maintaining the desired set temperature.