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I am a big dude too maybe as big as you. I tried teach myself how to surf here in California but apparently I was teaching myself on the wrong kind of waves for beginners. The wave went straight into the sand and my board hit tip first into the sand flipping me off of it body slamming me into the beach. I walked out the surf and fainted, someone grabbed my board and put it next to me and the life guard asked if i wanted an Ambulance, I said no. Drove home. My stomach hurt for a couple weeks, went to Drs and they took an X-ray, all my Internal Organs shifted 2 inches downwards, the lump in my stomach was all my intestines shifted into a giant lump. They said it'll stretch back ill be fine, I never knew organs shifted lol big dudes cant be surfing without almost dying lol
carnviore diet will get you healthy again. lots of doctors have ch start with Dr Ken Berry carnivore for beginners, no carb life, kelly hog, dr caffee = excellent info. Its time to get health so you can surf again.
Dam hit hard seeing you lying on the beach uso, but glad to see your ok now. Dont let it beat you go back in the summertime and better prepared, we'll be waiting for the video uce 💪 bless up 🙏💯
Far that last wave you got was on bro it's awesome to see you out getting full active brother my partner and I have been following the channel lately we might be strangers but we are proud of you 💯🔥💯
New Zealand waters be freezing this time of year, glad you’re feeling much better and stronger had me all emotional seeing you laying on the beach, must’ve been a scary situation for you and those who were with you 🙏🏽🙌🏽 thank you for this amazing video and sharing this moment with us 😊
Good on you brother for showing the good and the bad. It helps a lot of people and I'm sure can save lives. Its a big problem in nz with a big coast line and some quite rough surf beaches a lot of inexperienced people get into trouble. Glad you are all okay and keep it up.
Outta all if this shout out to the brothers that made sure the uce was calm and warm and reassuring he is okay! Thats love thats brithers coming together for real!!! Much love usos!! 💯🤍
Braddah Glad you're ok uso! I had a similar situation in 2012. Came from American Samoa and went swimming in Huntington Beach California during winter lol hypothermia almost passed out in the parking lot! Keep up the good work uso!
Yo! Glad you're okay man! You we're doing so well, and I'm stoked for you! Definitely give surfing another go, but with a wetsuit hahaha. I just went out today here in SF, CA, so seeing this video after a day of surfing makes me want to go again!
Glad you are okay! You ice bath at the gym all of the time. Scary that you went through this. Someone needs to set up a mobile hot tub on the beach next time.
You to big to be surfing uce gang.. glad you OK and had the crew there.. but when you lost a lot of weight, you need a lot of water bro, so make sure you stay hydrated. Boogie boarding is more easier.. love you man ❤..
Aloha frm Kona Hawaii uso glad u stay mai'kai ( well) mahalo ke Akua ( thank God) u have a good team wit u n keep doing da videos n keep trying to surf it was the sport of our kings in havaiki ( Hawaii ) back in the day Aloha my brudda
Get well soon uso. You’re the pharkin man for pushing all limits. You’re a natural born comedian. Don’t even need to try be funny to be funny. Hope to see more vids soon.
Kiaora, nice surf lesson bro and you still got out there in the water? Glad Kehu stayed to make sure you were algds hes a niice bro, teacher & foreva friend now, watchout for your health bro, hydration is key and swim surf in the summertime? Life is always a lesson take care, stay safe 😊🙏🏽👏🏽
Dont stop bro u look like uve lost heaps of weight thats crazy, i didnt really notice cause i always watch u, but i just went back and watched episode 1. Bro keep it up!
So does he mean to make love to the waves 😂 love how adventurous you are I would love to try surfing. Instructor is a time such a awesome guy and funny as hell. Hope you have a speedy recovery tho take care of yourself and always stay safe and hydrated ❤️🩹
Bruv, the first time I got back in at a beach break at 21 stone 6 foot one I broke four ribs trying to milk it onto the Shorebreak. It’s no fun being big! I’m working working on bodyweight stuff and have got down to 17 stone six
all goods g, im a 6,3 100 ish kg fella and i tried surfing and went to far forward then my board tipped and i landed right on my neck, went to the doctors that night and the doctor said i shouldve been rushed in an ambulance because i had sprained my neck or sum, was in a neck brace for a few weeks HAHAHAHA muriwai waves will kill any small fella 🤣
That’s actually pretty scary, I’m a beginner to surfing and because I can’t afford a wet suit I just surf in my shorts with a bikini top. I spend hours in the water sometimes more than I can handle because of how munch I enjoy learning to surf. Sometimes I go until it’s dark and never thought of hypothermia as proper threat. When I saw this video I thought you got slammed by a wave or something.
Hypothermia at the beach is crazy. I wonder how common that is. Especially since it’s not even winter yet. Just shows you have to stay alert out there. Good to see it turned out ok.
