Hahahaha if you already build so many kits the one by one look into the manual then return the runner then get that again is so boring thats why we prefer to cut all at once. Me i cut it per color. See. Imagine how difficult is that separating the frame into armors hahaha but its fun
@@axess707 its easier to clean up nubs if its all cut out already. its a pain in the ass to cut out like 5 pieces for an arm, grab the knife and cut nubs, grab the stick and sand, snap it, then repeat the process for another part. its much easier to snip everything, then cut all the nubs, then sand everything, then you have a perfectly prepared kit that can just be snapped together all in one go without having to worry about further clean up
One massively useful trick is to get a box of some sort to rest on your lap. The number of times that lap box has caught dropped parts and saved me the trouble of searching around under the desk for small parts is incalculable.
*FOR THOSE WONDERING* (plus some extra tips): When Zaku was speaking about directly applying panel liner to a kit and it possibly leading to breakage in the future, I'm pretty sure he is specifically speaking about liquid panel liner like Tamiya and not the Gundam Marker type panel liners. Gundam Marker panel liners are water based and are perfectly safe to apply directly to a kit (they are not the same as the normal Gundam Markers). They're easy to use, cheap, cleans up super easy (pencil eraser, q-tip, or even your finger), and they work wonders. I always recommend newer Gunpla builders (especially those who aren't interested in painting) to pick up these 3 Gundam Marker panel liners as *must haves:* Black(GM01). Gray(GM02). Brown(GM03). Black(GM01) for your dark colored parts (but can be used on lighter parts if you like that look). Gray(GM02) for your light colored parts. Then brown(GM03) which is almost exclusively used for yellow parts (but you can use black or grey if you like). I very highly recommend *every* Gunpla builder to have these in their kit (at least the black & gray). There are some great Gundam Marker & GM panel liner tips & tricks videos on YT that are worth watching if you haven't used a Gundam Marker or GM panel liner before. Happy building!🤘
I like the idea of cutting all the pieces and separating into a container by section. Need to try that on my next hg. Desk gets pretty cluttered with runners and my tools
A cutting mat with sections divided similarly to the containers can work quite well also but that can have its flaws especially if you have something unexpected happen and need to then put the parts into a container anyway.
I’ve done this method before with good results, however my favorite way to build is to have a bit of hype built up around the kit, doing some research into the line art, color scheme, and do some visualization of how I want it to turn out. Then I will dig in to the kit, cutting out the parts that need the most work first, such as seam line removal, masking, etc. for example I’m building a HG Ez8. First things I cut out were the feet, shield, antenna, and chest because all of those parts needed primer and masking for the grey paint. Then I proceed to cut out the legs, and plan how I will deal with the seams. This time I opted to use the offset seam as a panel line and created a matching one with a scriber. Then I build feet up, cementing and removing seams first, and building the rest while I wait for cement to cure, filing and sanding as I build. It really increases my enjoyment of the kit because I almost enjoy the process more than the result!
the HG "army builder" kits like the Leo and 30 Minutes Missions spoiled us with how their runners work that sometimes you don't need instructions to build them, technology has advanced indeed.
When I worked in a wood factory we made table tops. The plastic sometimes would get scratched so to make it passable for the customer we would rub our finger on our head and rub the scratch. Something about the oil on your face makes the color blend. I use it on the white marks
The tip on going through all the nipping and sorting it using a tackle box was 100% worth the whole video. When I only had one or two models to build I had no problem nipping just wh as t I needed for the next step but now that I have the stereotypical backlog shelf I definitely appreciate the idea of assembly line style
I have to say this. I build scale models since when I was a kid and now I'm 49. Well...even if I build a lot of gunpla I never think about cutting nubmarks a little bit from every angle like you do. Nice idea. I will try with my next kit. I want to see it it's better then just sanding the last little bit of nubmark. Thank you.
So we actually do the exact same thing! :D I'm glad I arrived at this method pretty quickly, I've been building for almost 2 years. I did notice how much more quickly my build went once i got it down. Recently it took only two sittings to build my PG MK II
I have not yet ever painted a kit, and it was wild seeing you basically describe the same method I use to do straight builds even though we've never even met each other. I hate filing/sanding, so I use a hobby knife, almost the same way you do, except I trim the nubs down with my nippers since I want them to be as invisible as possible. Your tips for getting the final last little bits of the nub marks to disappear were fantastic! I will definitely be using what I've learned from you in the future as I continue to build. Thank you!
Been building for only 2 months and started piece by piece through the manual. Now I cut and separate parts by runner. Clean up nubs then separate the parts by section comparing parts with the manual. Seems hard but actually the trick is looking for male and female holes on the similar looking parts. It's also quite relaxing if you clean up nubs first on all the parts then just snap build it like legos. Hardest part for me is doing the stickers for the gundam eyes lol
I generally just go through the runners needed for the current page in alphabetical order and cut the parts with about 1mm of spare nub straight onto the instructions. Then when I have all the parts for that page I'll grab the knife, file, and/or sand paper to finish and assemble. Though my process is only because I don't like separating parts into containers due to my innate talent of accidentally hitting the corner of the container and sending the parts flying everywhere.
Always messed up the nubs on the thruster or rifle barrel when I first started gunpla. Now I just love removing the nubs on it with a fresh sharp blade. Love your building tips Mr Zaku.
When organizing I usually do the same where I put them in alphabetical order in the box, but I also find that while building I start to remember the runners without the letters so I just end up bouncing from one to another. Also while cutting I make sure I cut off a lot of mirroring parts especially for arms and legs. I find it cute time than having to do it all in separation.
So many people don’t build with the next step in mind. That’s why it takes me hours to snap a HG, but I also know when I come to paint that kit it has been sanded and cleaned up way beyond what I see so many other painted kits doing. I think I need to try the tackle box approach though. Messing with runners is such a pain.
Supper useful video. I like how you gave us a rough estimate on how long this process takes. I’m always like…..am I just slow and inefficient at building lol. Thanks for the tips and the content!
I’ve been using a single blade nipper to cut nubs off. Dispae or godhand do a decent job. The knife gave me issues when I use to use it. Sanding after will remove the nub completely.
I would REALLY suggest trying snipping the nubs off at the part (once you've cut them off the runner of course) The single blade nippers basically just leave a thin strip of flash at the end that you can take off with one or two knife strokes and it looks great. I use the Dspiae nippers but I'm sure the USAGS nips would be just as good.
I see some experience builders doing puzzle type build. They remove all the parts off the runners and do the build without looking at the manual. Seems very hard but heck some people had their ways and if it works for them and they enjoy building in that process, no complains here.
I’ve been building like this for a little while now and I prefer it to cutting some parts, building, and repeating. It’s nice to just have a time where you’re just building without interruption
Especially with the thicker nubs like in 8:12, I don't go for the knife immediately. I carefully file it down a bit before I knife it. That way, the nub is easier to remove and lessense the chance of stress marks.
I use the same exact method, tackle box and all. I thought I was the only neat freak that did this LOL. And I see from the comments there’s a few others who also developed the same method.
I usually only cut the parts needed for that particular subassembly. I only deviate from instructions in that i assemble legs and waist first so that the model could stand by itself early in the process. I then build torso, head, arms, followed by whatever is left - backpacks, weapons, option parts etc.
I used to cut and build, step by step as per instruction. but now that im familiar with the parts. I just cut everything per body part, clean the nubs and build.
I’ll pb always use the masking tape with the runner number on it just cuz I like it buuuut since watching this Ive got the jewelry boxes and I put the runners in order in the box now and I’m gona stop going through the instructions and building in the order it tells me cuz this seems so much better to me. I have about 50+ kits now since I started back in April of last year and most are hg’s with a few rg’s and after building about 5 I dread all the sanding and then messing up the part and having to fix it and I didn’t have paints or anything to use instead of the mass of stickers hg’s come with but now I’ve got the tools and a good method of doing things and since I’ve built and slightly painted 7 kits in a month! I’m gona get a air brush soon and then start customs and I can’t wait so ty for the tips they really did help me get back into actually building and not just collecting lol
I've built 4 HG GUNPLA so far (technically 6 but 2 are AG kits soo) and the "3rd" and "4th" kits I cut all the pieces to a body part and line them up alphabetically and numerically by runner then cut nubs and build that part. I keep the instructions on something that’ll hold it standing up.
I've found the glass files have been great for helping with removing and helping to hide the white marks left behind from stress in the plastic. Currently using a Gunprimer branded one. Little small but I'll be getting the larger one soon
Yes!! Glass file > fine sanding sponge > buffing/polishing sponge That gives a completely invisible result, matching the original finish without painting. This was a new discovery for me, and it's awesome
i usually just follow the manual and depend on the kit i either cut it all off the runner or i set my runner in the order(A-B-C-...)then i cut the following pieces for the part i build
HG Zaku I is a great kit, and despite its age holds up quite well. I also have a lot of sentimental attachment to it because it's the first kit I have airbrushed!
This is how I build, but I use at least 2 tackle.boxes. I also try to get a good straight build out with knifing and sanding. I can't finish a kit in a day now sometimes I am motivated to detail paint right away
I loved the video and i’ll definitely start taking pointers from this know lol, also this makes me realize how much a want a true revive zaku I or master grade 2.0
Can you make a video about parts cutting and nub cleaning on chromed kits? I love my chrome kits but I really hate cutting the parts off, the coating always leaves a bump on the nub and when you cut it flat, the chrome gets removed as well.
Always curious what other people's methods are. I think I have been sanding mine for long enough it takes me a WHILE to go through even an hg. I think once I was going to just knife shave the nubs but the perfectionist in me ended up sanding it down, lol.
hey you should review old kits that you already built and havent reviewed yet. would be awesome to look at some old kits. also see some kits we probably never heard of before or seen
I just recently got into gunpla after mainly building war planes having an absolute blast with these. My question as a beginner though is, does the kit have to be painted?
Overall the color molding of Gunpla is great and doesn’t necessarily require much of any painting to be color accurate to the box art. So there’s no requirement per say. But many people do paint and enjoy that aspect of it so it’s totally up to how you want to enjoy the models! Welcome!
Welcome to Gunpla! Pretty much everything Zaku said. Just to add a couple things though: With HGs and older kids of any grade, they tend to come with a lot of stickers to color correct parts. Some of these can be quite large stickers too. Some people prefer to paint those parts of the kit instead even if they're not painting the rest of the kit. Gundam Markers can work very well for some of the small detail stickers. There are Gundam Markers made for exact colors and there is a color guide in the instructions if you need to paint match. Thankfully, Bandai has been getting much better when it comes to color corrector stickers. Most the time, if you prefer not to paint your Gunpla or like the color of the kit as is: Simple panel lining and a matte top-coat (after panel lining & decals) will make a world of difference and make your unpainted kit look great (you don't have to top-coat if you don't want to, panel lining alone goes a long way). Btw, when Zaku was speaking about directly applying panel liner to a kit and it possibly leading to breakage in the future, he is specifically speaking about liquid panel liner like Tamiya and not the Gundam Marker type panel liners. Gundam Marker panel liners are water based and are perfectly safe to apply directly to a kit (they are not the same as the normal Gundam Markers that I mentioned above). They're easy to use, cheap, cleans up super easy (pencil eraser, q-tip, or even your finger), and they work wonders. I always recommend newer Gunpla builders (especially those who aren't interested in painting) to pick up these 3 Gundam Marker panel liners as *must haves:* Black(GM01). Gray(GM02). Brown(GM03). Black(GM01) for your dark colored parts (but can be used on lighter parts if you like that look). Gray(GM02) for your light colored parts. Then brown(GM03) which is almost exclusively used for yellow parts (but you can use black or grey if you like). I very highly recommend *every* Gunpla builder to have these in their kit (at least the black & gray). There are some great Gundam Marker & GM panel liner tips & tricks videos on YT that are worth watching if you haven't used a Gundam Marker or GM panel liner before. I'm sure you've learned all this stuff by now, but thought I'd post anyway just in case. Happy building!🤘
Now I don't feel so bad about taking 3-4 hours to build a HG. I guess it's only people that really rush who do sub 1 hour HG builds. I usually cut out all parts of a section, clean all nubs with a godhand + knife/file/sanding, assemble the section, repeat. I've never thought to cut everything out at once since I don't have a separator box and the similar looking parts all get mixed up.
Never cut close to the part.... gave some space on a mg gp01 (old, I know) and the eyes snapped. Is this just a problem for more brittle clear pieces. Using god hands so not trash nippers.
Huh... I've been working more or less the same way as you have this whole time. I always vaguely suspected that I was doing something wrong, but I guess not. :\
it can take me around 3-4 hours just for HG, I am not sure why I am so slow at building kits. but I do enjoy the process of building kits and it feels like meditation to me, so eh, not bad I guess? *saying that while looking at my 100+ kits backlog. I am not gonna able to build all of these lol
I typically straight build my gunpla unless I have a special project in mind. I like my gunpla to be as anime accurate as possible. However, Im not that good with nub marks and seem lines.
I typically use black or dark grey. Sometimes even dark brown depending on the look I'm going for. Black seems to be the most common thing I see others use.
I'm pretty new to the hobby and I've mainly used sandpaper to smooth things out when I mess up with the knife. I've seen some people say to use sandpaper to remove the nubs, so I was wondering if I should try to get the nub down to the last little bit with the knife and then hit the part's surface with the sandpaper instead of just using the knife all the way? Also if I should be sandpapering the entire part or just the surfaces that have nubs/seams on them in general?
