I clean my gun in an empty room with the floor covered with a tarp and still manage to lose stuff. Outdoor gunsmithing, that my friend, brings the word bravery to a whole new level !
My thought exactly. I get anxiety working on parts of the car or machine that are small. I usually remove them when possible and do the breakdown on a paper towel or rag or at least inside on a workbench. I’ll the king of “welp…. Better go to auto zone cuz I ain’t ever finding that little spring.” My favorite was when I learned of “Jesus” clips on cars. A friend asked me “you know why they’re called Jesus clips?” At that exact moment it popped and went flying into my face. I instinctively yelled “oh Jesus” and he just calmly said “yep that’s exactly why.”
Anyone else wishing they had a Pat Mac in their life? And then realize YOU must become the Pat Mac in someone else’s life? What an amazing human. I love this guy and what he so freely brings to the table.
WD-40 won’t really protect it very good. It’s pretty poor at rust prevention. I’d definitely stick with CLP, motor oil or any of the other good gun lubes/oils. WD-40 is a pretty good solvent though and would make a good cleaner.
Great video. A cool tip I learned in the Glock armorer course to disassemble the firing pin from spring. Turn the firing pin assembly upside down and place in channel backwards sticking out the rear of the slide. The slide acts as a third hand while you compress the spring to remove the firing pin cups. This trick helps me and people who have big fingers.
Yes sir went to the same course our department sponsored it it’s the only way to make life easy and not loose parts 👊🏻15 years ago I think it was time fly’s
I wonder if that's what's wrong with my Glock 17. On my last trip to the range I noticed the slide was sticking a bit after every shot. When the trigger resets the slide would go ahead and try to slide the last couple of centimeters forward. It was failing to fire after about every 3-5 rounds.
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 I was unsure what was causing it to stick. I thought it was trigger related. The slide would go ahead and try to finish moving forward the last centimeter or so once I let the trigger reset. It would have failure to fires every few rounds, though. I dry fired/function checked it when I got back home and it was still sticking . I field stripped it and clean/lubed it. Afterwards I function checked/dry fired it again and it wasn't sticking anymore. I just need to find time to get back out and shoot it again to see if all it needed was cleaning.
@Pat Mac I like to use one of those magnetic trays that you can find at auto parts or hardware stores when working/cleaning my guns. Helps ensure that those tiny, crucial metal parts don't fall into the abyss.
RIP dimebag RIP Vinnie Paul. Respect brother I appreciate the video but I truly appreciate the Pantera in the background as well. God bless ya brother rock and roll
Yea I started using gloves too after watching one of Reid Heinrichs' videos on cleaning an AR and I felt my skin crawl after watching him cover his fingers in grease to lube up the bolt, then proceed to grab ahold of the grip and charging handle after getting it all back together. I'm not knocking him bcuz he's an amazing shooter and very knowledgeable and seems like an all around good dude, but the idea of having an oily grip and having that all over your hands and everywhere on your gun isn't something I could deal with lol. So yea I do all my lubing gloved up, then take them off before I touch anything that will have contact with skin.
When replacing the striker spring, if you place the striker in the channel backwards, the slide will hold the striker in place and allow you to use both hands a little more freely and makes the cup removal/installation easier
Upon suggestion of a long range shooter, started packing about 50 patches soaked in Hoppes in a small jar that used to hold preserves. Fits in the range bag, no muss no fuss. A little extra juice in it in case it's needed, lasts a long time.
Another often neglected are of the Glock is where the extractor rests against the slide when fully assembled. This area can build up with carbon over time and cause a failure to extract.
I bought 2 Gen 4 Glocks, g23 and 30, new at the same time. I alternated between them as my EDC's. Both had less than 2k rounds through them. Both were regularly field stripped and cleaned after eachg range trip. It had been a number of months between visits to the range but that last time I went both firearms worked flawlessly. So I was quite shocked when on the next trip to the range, neither of them would fire. I could feel the trigger activation and firing pin release. But the primers weren't being struck or were struck very lightly. I did a full detail cleaning on both and found a sooty build up in the the firing pin chambers of both firearms. Now I do full detail clean after each range trip or at least once a month as a routine.
@@ericinMN1970 ....but but but....glocks are perfection and never have issues! I swear there was someone who fired 100k through one with no misfires.... Seriously, good job catching that. It's a more subtle way of taking a gun down.
@@SlavicCelery I've owned a few glocks prior to these and didn't have this issue with any of them. I'm sure I put many more rounds through them as well. It's just damn odd that both firearms had the same issue at the same time. It's also very alarming because they were both used for EDC. I'll never know at what point in the 6 or so month span when they both stop functioning. I'm just lucky I didn't need to rely on them to save my life.
My son just lost a pin from his AR stock and learned these lessons. Work in a clean, well ventilated environment. And sweep the floor first! Makes those little parts easier to find.
One time went to take my buffer off and forgot about the plate keeping the spring and plunger under tension for the safety. That spring went flying in my kitchen. Never did find it.
The only time my Glock 19 Gen 3 ever malfunctioned was with a dirty magazine and when I over oiled it and the striker channel was gummed up. When I first got my Glock I didn't believe that over oiling it would be a problem. It 100% can lead to the striker channel getting gummed up and slowing down the striker enough to present a problem.
That's what I've always heard about oiling Glocks, keep oil far away from the striker channel. I only add a couple of drops to the rails on the frame and slide and a little bit on the underside of the slide where it contacts the barrel hood.
I'm dying at the WD-40 lol.. If I had a dollar for every "gun bro" who has lost their shit at the very mention of cleaning a gun with it over the years... Like "WTF?? I would never in a million years let that shit touch my guns!!"
I love how while being vulnerable, having weapons field stripped for cleaning, attention on producing the video, etc... you have BoB covering your 6. People underestimate having a BoB in your corner. Lol. Great stuff Pat, as always man.
I suggested WD 40 to a customer the other day because his firearm accidentally took a swim. He freaked out and said “NEVER USE WD40 ON FIREARMS!!!” Been using it for 45 years. Never an issue.
It's no issue IF used with brains and what is expected of it. It has cleaning qualities and getting seized stuff going. But it's properties have some downsides. One of them is creating a hydrophilic surface after a while, meaning it attracts humidity that makes the bed for corrosion. So after seized parts are separated or some cleaning was done, alcohol helps to get rid of that. Let's say we didn't use our brain and used WD-40 on firearms. There've been several cases where it was used generously with ammo around and shortly before storing. WD-40 and similar penetrating petroleum products creep through small gaps and gets into ammo rendering the powder useless or may create hang fire situations. If you store a gun for longer, make sure there is no WD-40 residue left on them cause it turns to a sticky brown film that seizes up parts. Ask gunsmiths that made their money cleaning those cases. So with additional steps like using alcohol, lubrication and using one's brain, WD-40 has a purpose around guns, though it is a limited one. I'd also advise against it near any wood furniture firearms simply for penetrating wood. I personally don't use it cause it has a way of getting where it shouldn't, like some areas on revolvers that should be dry, messing with greased parts in some auto loading shotguns and pistols. You can clean with water too without any issue with great effect and you can read about it in official military manuals. Then you have to get rid thoroughly of all the water though.
WD40 has so many myths surrounding it. So many "don't use it for ______!" statements, and often they're wrong. It's not great, for example, as a chain lube on bicycles or motorcycles because it doesn't really "cling" and evaporates eventually. But it's awesome at displacing water and providing some "loosening" (of dirt/contaminants) action. That's probably why Pat Mac uses it.
WD 40 was developed for the military =water displacement oil year of 1940 , great for cleaning LOOSE powder residue and especially after wading through Jurassic 🦖park
I wonder if that's what's wrong with my Glock 17. On my last trip to the range I noticed the slide was sticking a bit after every shot. When the trigger resets the slide would go ahead and try to slide the last couple of centimeters forward. It was failing to fire after about every 3-5 rounds.
I think it was Ryan Cleckner who said that it truly doesn't matter what way you run the rod. His reason is, the bullet, and the explosion happening in the gun is way worse than any brass rod, brush or rag can do. Idk he does it with his sub MOA guns and still drives nails so I'm happy with doing it on my AR
The difference is the brass rod and not a steel rod and if it matters depends what is done with it. There are brushes that can severely reduce the life of a barrel, especially if a soldier is bored and is cleaning like a maniac. Bronze brushes are fine but keep them away from ammonia to not get a false positive and ruin the brush.
@@onpsxmember yes of course. I should have added that, so thank you for the caveat. I was speaking only to brass implements and as you mention, depending on the chemical agent you can of course do damage to the barrel if used improperly. Also, if we're talking on the subject of soldiers cleaning firearms, I fear that damage to the weapon doesn't come from the soldier being bored, it comes from the armorer and superiors being so strict on absolute cleanliness of the firearms. So, soldiers resort to scraping and hard scrubbing to ensure there is no carbon, but in turn they remove bluing and do more damage than good.
Fucking awesome... 30 years ago I lived near Ft. Benning... I heard about “unit” guys through Rangers and always thought how cool it would be to pick their brain about random shit.. Here we are 2022 these dudes are showing us how to clean guns, shoot etc... good times. Thanks 🙏
Thank you for the old school way. I hear people always say “Don’t use WD40 to lube with! And it doesn’t protect!” Then act like the seas will boil over and the moon will crash into the earth. I guess they don’t listen. You don’t lube with WD40. It’s fine to clean with. In fact, it works great. Then you FOLLOW UP with oil to lube. My grandfather and my dad always used it to clean their guns all the time then used lube afterwards. Their guns always ran like a scalded dog!
Mr. McNamara, What if I cleaned my AR platform from barrel to chamber? Should I replace the barrel entirely? Since doing so, it shoots high and to the right consistently. Thank you. Sincerely & Appreciatively, R.W.N II
I advise against WD40 on firearms. You will inevitably have WD40 build up in a place you don’t want it and it will gum up. Honestly to remove oils and grease…you’re better off using dawn dish soap haha. WD40 displaces water and that’s about it. It’s not much of a cleaner and definitely not a lubricant. Just words of advice. WD40 doesn’t play well with others meaning other oils or greases so it’s prone to get sticky and gummy and make your gun collect and hold onto unwanted carbon and particles.
Good to know. I use WD-40 and Hoppes too and I get some guff over the WD-40. For lube I use Rem oil if available and outboard oil if not. What do you use for lube and protecting the outside metal?
Black gloves look sexy but wear orange or blue for contrast and assessing how much crud is there... and the ability to inspect small parts in poor light, black part against a bright background allows you to see springs and screws.
Some say it’s a penetrating oil. Will penetrate and get powder wet in cartridges. I never have ammo around when I’m cleaning guns. That said, many old timers freak out at WD 40 on firearms. I’ve been using it as a cleaner and solvent for 45 years. Never an issue. I do not rely on it as a lubricant.
Maybe WD40 has changed over the years , as a youth long ago a local auctioneer hired my brother and I to clean firearms from the estate of a man who used wd 40 before he stored firearms. over the years it turned into a sticky waxy stuff - not quite as bad as the old cosmoline or plastilube but it was a bear to clean off maybe actual regular use of firearms prevents this -
@@phileds1736 no still same formula. Wd40 is fine for regular use but your correct that long term storage can cause that build up. For long term storage, it's best to use a light oil like rem oil.
Brownells had a video a few months back and said to not clean your guns with WD-40. Its a penetrating cleaner and, whats in it isn't intended for a firearm. I use CPL. I also use break cleaner to spray out the barrel and upper and BCG as an initial step. I run suppressed 99% of the time so always more cleaing.
I use Zep Orange Citrus degreaser that you can get at the big box stores for general cleaning of crud and components (everything except barrel bores). It’s cheap and works well and is relatively safe to finishes. You will need to re-oil and re-grease everything since it strips off all the old lube, but it does work well.
@@seanoneil277 Yes. The good thing about it is that you can also dilute it with water if you want something more gentle. However, no issues with polymer, Cerakote, or nitrided parts at full strength. I just spray and work with a plastic cleaning brush. I wouldn’t recommend you soak parts overnight. Smells nice too…..
