dude, dont mince words. bmw deserves a shot in the head for that shitty engineering. my asc pumped failed and theyre telling me 250,000 yen for a new one. that 2500 dollars. I only paid 120,000 yen for the car 5 years ago. plus it needs a new throttle body because the throttle position sensor is bad. Thats 170,000 yen. great vid, man. I hope bmw watches it. bastards.
this is so true I like cars but gosh where bmw does good are i6 engines and unfortunately they are good not because of bmw just of pure physic laws behind i believe that if bmw could they would use plastic valves with carbon fibre pistons and kitchen foil rods and somebody would have to spend an Everest of cash on lawyers to prove bad engineering at fault not customer. And to be fair this the same story with others too.
very useful video thank you very much, seeing the problem is half way to fixing it, I'm sure the brushes are responsible for many of the motor failures. well done.
Great video. Thanks for the time you put into it. I have a 2007 328i convertible and I have to pop the hood about once a month, tap on the abs motor with a small hammer and nut driver, reset the obd code and I’m good for about another month😄. I really need to tackle this but I’m a bit afraid of it.
Thanks for posting this. I’ve done this repair 3 times now. I didn’t know you could get new brushes these days. I just freed the original ones up and thought it would be okay, but it comes back after a year or so! Also I didn’t drill new holes for clamping the motor back on, but I prefer your method. Hopefully I can get mine fixed just the one final time! By the way this motor runs every time you start the engine as a test. Hence how it generates the error code.
Thanks to your video I sailed through this repair...my brushes had a ton of life so I fine sanded all sides of both brushes and spread the brush cage slightly so the brushes were completely loose, i read you should not lubricate brushes. Had trouble like you gaging the height of bearing when reassembling, trial and error to get that part right, like you said very important to measure before pounding the bearing off.. When I took the motor off I removed minimal aluminum, I assembled it with nothing other than peening aluminum over the pump flanges. Another tip is to assemble all the brake lines and before turning the key on I bled the 4 top brake lines at the ABS, did this by myself (left hand steering car) by pushing pedal and loosen tighten the top ABS lines. I didn't want the ABS motor to pull the air in. No bleeding the brakes needed. Accidently assembled the motor shell 180 deg off but didnt seem to matter. Also broke both inner plastic tabs off completely, did not bother gluing back. maybe 2-3 hours total. Thank you for posting.
So you connected all lines to abs unit and before turning on you loosen the 4 top brake lines and bleeded them and pressing the brake pedal? So you neednt to go to each wheel a makenthe bleeding process?
Hi: got the same error messages (5DF0 - Hydraulic Unit Pump Motor and 5DF1 - Hydraulic Unit Pump Motor Connector) and was ready to do the repair (super useful information in this video) wondering if the motor was the culprit or the power electronics to the motor. Before starting the disassembly, I thought: if the carbons are stuck, maybe a little wack to the motor housing will free them up enough to start the motor?. Did that using a screwdriver handle as a plastic hammer, cleared the codes and no errors!. I assume the codes will come back in a few weeks, when the little amount of carbon freed up wears out, but for tonight, I am very happy! Again, thanks for the great info (the part of drilling the side holes to depress the plastic tabs is the best).
Hello, the original brushes are copper and they expand causing the brush to stick, which generate the error. Yes hitting it with a screwdriver did work for me temporarily. I replaced them with carbon brushes. 5mmx5mmx10mm Take care.
Thank you for this tutorial. Mine 30d had this same problem. I was scared that I have to take off this unit and have to disassembly. So I gave a try and hit the the pump on its place with a piece of wood and a hammer. Luckily probably the stucked carbon brushes moved as a result of the small hits so the unit is working again and the 5DF0 5DF1 dtc's has gone. If anybody meet with these codes I suggest first give small hits to the pump and check if its working again.
Thanks for your video. Im busy doing the same as you have done above. One question: When removing the bearing my shaft also got pushed back, which resulted in the shaft protruding on the bottom end. What technique did you use to push it back. Where to support it when pushing the other way? Thanks
Hi pal, just hold the coil pack copper winding with hand and tap on the shaft on the end. This should allow the shaft to move. When holding the centre part please wear some gloves. Also try to put something in between the shaft and the hammer so you don't chip the end edge of the shaft when knocking. Cheers
Great video , re the brushes look too short as the spring is fully extended and there's not much length on them .. I went for 10mm leaving the spring more coiled !
Really nice work. The kit is expensive to ship to the USA, could you post the dimensions of the carbon brushes? They look to be 5x6x14mm but I want to be sure. Brushes are cheap to get here in the USA by themselves, I want to try this on a salvage yard ABS motor for practice.
Good evening, The carbon dimension are 10mm length and 5mm x 5mm width. If it is long compared to yours then you can carefully shim it with a file. For example: a.aliexpress.com/_B0QAnq I used INPA to do the bleeding. This is the proper way of bleeding. Use of pedal can damaged the seals inside the master cylinder. Start bleeding the furthest away from the driver side and bleed to the nearest last. Cheers
After months of research! Thank you for your detailed video. On a side note, where did you get your English version of INPA from? In order for me to try and DIY the brush repair I really need a WORKING install of an English version INPA. What I find on the internet is helter skelter and I've tried several downloads and install and none of them seem to be working properly and its so frustrating and slow with a German version of INPA.
Please Sir can you Tell me you re thots aboud my 630i e64 2005 .. and active steering DSC nothing works .. obd computer tells me that there is" ABS NOT EQUIPED also no communication with ecu i replace bouth and ecu cloned .. car Starts and drives but no steering Ore abs, DTC, acc.. Please can you Tell me what to do thanks a lot !!
I have similar lights but my codes are 5dd0 and 5dd2... talking about recalibrating the dcs unit, any help? Should I just buy a new one or is there a cheaper solution? I have a 328i e90 Thanks in advance!
I have the same error code. I will try to fix it aswell. Thank you for the vid. But I do have another question. How did you manage to get the paddle shifters to work on you 330d? Because mine can’t get coded for some reason. Is yours also retrofitted? Thanks in advance.
This distance is not that crucial as you make it to be. Collar that sits on the other side has also around 10mm of height. Depth of the pocket inside valve body is around 14mm. IMO this was designed with 1mm tolerance and additional 1mm for a good measure. So if shaft protrusion is in 12mm +/- 0.5mm ball park it is completely okay.
Do you know what the voltage on the motor pins should be? I plugged the module in and measured two pins at 8.57v. I'm sure it should be 12v. Any ideas mate? The error code I get is 5df5, this is the ASC system. 2001 e46 330ci.
Hello, I had an adjustable bench power supply and i slowing increased the voltage upto 12vdc. Motor should be 12vdc, however if you have a 6, 10vdc power supply the motor should run at slow speed but proving it works.
I connected trafo from 220VAC to 12 VDC but after connecting the motor it runs in strange cycle like slow motion stops for 0,5 sec and again runs in the same way after checking the brushes there is plenty of them and are touching the anchor
Hello, New pump £1000+, second hand unit can range from £200+, however these pumps have same common fault. Ideally you want to refub yourself or this ebay seller can refurb your unit for £99 : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-ABS-Pump-REFURBISHMENT-REPAIR-SERVICE-10-0212-10-0961-5DF0-5DF1-/132960649354?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
@@iTCXtreme thanks for this! Been looking at forums confirming similar prices. Just recently had rear discs and pads and sensor changed as well as all four tyres changed and alignment done. Legend for doing this though! I’m not suspect hands on with my car to refurb myself but I like to know what needs to be done and costs etc. Subscribing now
What where the symptoms beside the errors??. I have a 2005 bmw e60 that gives me abs errors But whe. It happens i have no Servotronic no abs dtc and the speed is also dead.after car restarts is all good..run for exactly 400m then happens again
@@iTCXtreme i olso have no cruise control no dtc olso no fuel consumption...it's a bit odd because after i restart the car the errors goes away for 400m but..if i deactivate dtc after restart the car runs 4 about 3km then again the errors followed by no speed on the dash no fuel consumption no abs no dtc no Servotronic.....this car is killing me😭
@@iTCXtreme i have done it....all the codes are related to the dsc...nothing obvious like abs sensor front left or something like that....but i have made a bleeding test and u can hear the motor......
If this is such a common problem for such a important safety feature such as failing ABS system due to stuck brushes in a motor that is otherwise fine, it should be a recall. Then maybe they wouldn't think to design it in such a non-serviceable way. I just had the double code pop up leaving work tonight. A seriously poor design facet of an otherwise amazing car.
Sadly, the exact motor is not easily available. On ebay well over £200 for used abs pump. This is a common issue, therefore buying a secondhand motor doesn't guarantee defect free. Therefore I believe this was a bullet proof option and the motor is still working since repaired. Take care. 😊
@@iTCXtreme agree, it’s happened to me tried so many used pumps, most people say test and fully working condition but mostly they sell faulty pumps, it’s just time and money in terms of Labour, get eBay one fitted and if faulty pay again to take it off send it back try another one pay again, so it’s best to get refurbished at least it will be a just one off job, or if someone really sells functional but again you never know if that goes. Probably your way is better, by the way do you do this refurbishment or not just in case if I want to get mine done
