I did this procedure on my 2000 accord ex. It fixed the problem great. I found a short hose and kept the line plugged with a golf tee. I ran it like this for probably 2 months. Then hooked it back up in the original position. It ran fine for maybe 6 months, I forgot all about it. Then the start sputter stall issue started again. So I hooked up the golf tee again and it works fine now. It has probably been in place for another 4-5 months. I will probably just leave it in place, maybe I will run another can of injector cleaner through it. Thank you so much for your video, you saved me a lot of money I'm sure!
Man thank you so much my 02 accord has been acting stupid this whole summer and today 30 minutes before time to go to work it wouldn't start I just got home and your video was the 2nd one I watched and no lie I just went outside and held my finger over the hole and my car started I plugged the regulator back up and it still ran and restarted but I will put cleaner in it tomorrow THANKYOU THANKYOU THANKYOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for putting this up. I’m going to give this a try. Mine is doing this push the gas get nothing thing with a helluva lunge when it finally catches
Thank you very much I can't tell you how much we appreciate what you did you saved me and my son a great deal of money which I can do but what I can't do is weight a shitload of time which I would have been doing trying to fix car
I was given a Honda 2002 Accord ex which had the check engine light on. I spent over 1500.00 bucks on different fixes. The light would go off for about a hundred miles and come back on. Very recently it started stalling while driving which freaked me out and got worst until it would only run at idle for 5 to 10 minutes. I stumbled onto your video, looking for fixes of this type. I followed your instructions except I filled the 1/8 hose with a tight fitting screw and clamped it. Started the car and the check engine light went out immediately! Ran the car for 1/2 hour, no stalling. This built my confidence and took the car out for a spin. It ran better than it ever had. The next step will be to take it on the highway. The mechanic. wanted to install a ignition switch which would have cost at least 460.00. and not fixed the problem. I paid 4.50 cents. plus 9.00 for the ingection cleaner. Excellent video. I was thinking of junking the car because it was too hairy to drive, not to mention how much I had spent on the check engine problem. Excellent, excellent!
Almost my exact experience today. I don't have time to elaborate too much, but let me just say, I passed the safety and emission test for my 2000 Accord V6 3.0L today with the tube with a screw in it firmly in place. I had cleared the check engine light and immediately went to Jiffy Lube which show up as "not ready", so I drove around for 50 miles, still no "check engine" light on, and went back to Jiffy Lube and passed with flying colors. AND, starting the engine hot after a stop here and there has been no problem. Many thanks! Very helpful video! I was able to dodge some potentially expensive bullets.
Thank you very much My 2000 Accord started doing the same noise you just did at start took it to O'Reilly's to get scanned because engine light came on like a week before there scan said I had a p 1739 code that has to do with the transmission which I will fix but this one felt like it had to do with the fuel system going to do the exact same to my car believe it will work thanks for the info get back to you on the results My friend!
Frist Thing i Just Want to Said Thank You For Sharing. Now i'm going to try just like in this viedo on my 2000 honda accord V6 that has only 140K miles. Cause i having the Same problem.
I have the same car same problem but only happens during winter with winter blend gas when spring came and summer blend gas I took off the tube it starts normally.
Interesting. I literally just did this on a '86 Accord LXi after watching this. It seems to start quicker but we'll see ? I don't see how it will run richer, the injectors are now receiving full pressure gasoline (whether they need it or not ). As long as it all holds together and nothing leaks it should be business as usual. All the other sensors determine fuel mixture. To me, just because there is not a variable pressure, just a steady pressure that's still within the injectors limits, the injector should still squirt the prescribed amount of gasoline in to the cylinder.
I'm having that same problem with my Accord 4cylinder the same symptoms you are describing turns on rough like it's choking is it a common thing in hondas
To Repeatman : thank you your video was helpful , ran few times to the stores after that started the car and died, I went to pepboys spent about 5 bucks , bought the the tube and a random cap ( not the broken gauge 😀 ) put it together , boom starts right up . But I have some questions though if you don't mind, will I pass emission test if I kept doing this , is it danger to drive like that ? And one more question please, is it hard to open fuel regulator ? I coudn't find any videos on youtube, since you have the same car like I do , thank you and I'd appreciate it 🙏🙏🙏
I have a 2001 Honda Accord v6 it randomly shuts off while driving it never spits sputters or anything it will just quit running I can crank it and sometimes it will fire up and sometimes I haft to let it set a few minutes before it will start back I’ve replaced the fuel pump but it’s still doing it could this be my issue?
I have the same car same engine. I put cat and both o2 sensors. In the morning it has a hard start and engine light is still on. Do you know what it could be?
Yessir if fuel had ethanol in it it’s cause it was made with corn and after sitting in one place for too long it turns into a sap like material that just absolutely clogges everything it can
My 2000 Honda Accord had a bad head gasket. The oil was leaking into the distributor assembly. And that had to be replaced with a new one. With a new head gasket. I also went parts happy. New spark plugs, new main relay, fuel pump and ignition coil. I had all those changed out. And it wouldn’t crank over. Then when I had the distributor assembly changed out. It cranked over and purrs like a kitten.
you saved my life bro I spent money on the same car far as new coil packs, IAC and Main Relay I put a tube with a screw since I didn't have one that was sealed on the other end and the car starts like a charm and no lights I barely did this yesterday so I have to run the car for about 2-4 weeks and plug my vaccum back in? I didn't buy any fuel regulator cleaner though just did covered the vaccum hose with with a sealed tube..
Erick Garcia i did the exact same thing u just mentioned and what the guy in the video did, my v6 works good now and i started using shell gas, or gas with no ethanol and now it works fine
I have the same exact car with the same issue. Couldn't figure out why. Took the vacuum hose off like you said except I don't have a way to plug it like you did. And i cranked it up to test it. No issue what so ever.
I think it’s a bad fuel regulator mine, does that if I unhook the hose connected the fuel regulator to the intake manifold it runs fine but put it back It runs rough.
I have this EXACT same problem. It happens after a semi long drive in the hot weather. If i go to the mini mart and try to start the vehicle after it sits only for a few minutes, it will not start. I literally have to sit for about 20 mins then it will eventually start. Ill try this fix and see if it goes away. I should mention that this problem only comes up after a really hot day or when the engine is hot. - Oh and i have changed out the main relay with a new one just to be on the safe side. (1998 V6 Accord AT Trans) I also wonder if removing all the plastic covers will help with cooling? Thank you!
My car some time it don't want to start I replaced the fuel pump and it was working fine then it would not want to start again it would start when it want to and when it did it would run for an hour or so it it would never start i don't know what eles it could be
I have the same problem with my 2000 honda accord v6, i guess its the same problem with everyone with the same car, honda kinda screwed up on that part of the car
Mine 2001 accord 2.3 vtech is sputtering and now stalling when stopping. It started doing this after filling the gas tank up then within 20 mins. I got all the misfire codes and V-Tech solenoid code, Now I changed the plugs, wires, and V-Tech solenoid switch...when I took the old plug out the 2 on the same side as the V-Tech solenoid were black (the other 2 were fine) now that is replaced and new plugs and wires I still have the same codes car is sputtering bad and now stalling out when I stop. My mechanic took the plugs back out and now all 4 are black and smell of fuel. I am at that WTH stage!
hi thx for video, i liked it i got the same car 2000 v6, the car after it gets hot does not start, so will your procedure help me ? what part do i get from autozone ? 1/8 tubing gauge or plug do i get ? thx
i saw in another post you mention you replaced he fuel pump and strainer, is that what you recommend ? do i need to do that ? or is this procedure sufficient ? thx
Is your car starting and sputtering and dyeing like mine? If it is just not starting while it is hot check your fuel pump relay. if the relay is good check the fuel pressure. The 1/8 tubing can be bought at any hardware store.
The computer controls the fuel/air ratio though and I've seen tons and tons of reports online done by people saying the pcm and fpr always fixed it. This is an idea I'll try but cutting air off to the fpr kinda seems detramental u could've just put in better gas and done the seafoam half in the intake and half in the tank..I've been a mechanic for 15 years and while cheap fixes are great I honestly don't think disconnecting that vac helped u
I assumed him starting off explaining how he was having an issue, then he done something that temporarily stopped it, then eventually undone what he did to fix it and now its w/out said issue wouldve meant ITS FIXED. If only temporary. Especially with the whole comment section doing the exact thing you believe would be of no value to the cause but somehow worked with everyone trying it. Not 1 person claiming to have tried it said otherwise.
Thanks for the video! Question: At 1:10 when you unplugged the vacuum line from the manifold did you just let it hang there open for the 2-4 weeks? Couldn't you get the same result from just pinching the vacuum line with locking forceps? Thanks!
repeatman As it turns out my alternator was bad. After replacing it and putting in a new battery the problem disappeared. Thanks again for your helpful video.
Jose Bueno fuck no you don't do anything this guy is talking about he is fucking wrong don't do anything this moron says. Has burning up his catalytic converters.
Need to replace fuel rail setup with a 2001 honda odyssey system to get fuel return and regulator in the correct location to stop the vapor lock. Bought the whole setup at a salvage yard for $17 bucks. This year honda has a flawed fuel setup honda has a recall on it and a bullshit $2000 plus fix of reflashing the ecm and installing a higher pressure fuel regulator and it still wont fix this issue. The fuel additive works for that 1 tank of fuel maybe but I dont want to pay an extra $10 per fillup..
So when you say "thump thump thump"?? Do you mean your engine was shaking violently? My 97 civic randomly does that and if I keep driving for a couple minutes it eventually stops then comes back a day or two later....and I'm freaking out! Took to the mechanic and he replaced some ELD sensors and cleaned the fuel injectors and it started running again, but then it started randomly doing this bullshit where the engine shakes and I have to hit the gas at a light and then I drive for a minute or two...and it runs normal. Any ideas?
@@elijahgomez1 Oh man I totally forgot about this!! LOL. No man, It was the strangest thing. I did have the check engine light and never replaced the o2 censors. So possibly a computer problem. My brother got a new car and gave me his mustang, so thankfully I didn't have to keep driving the civic... After a while the engine got pretty bad and pretty sure the cat was damaged as well. Last summer I bought a 2018 Ford Focus with like 30k miles, and it has been so stress free to not have to worry about older car problems. Even the mustang that was a 2002 started giving me problems. My honest advice, start putting some money aside, goto a dealership and get something a little newer, put down like 1-2k and get yourself a low interest rate. My Focus was only 11k, I put down $1600.00 (the money I got for the mustang) and I only pay $218.00 a month. Haven't had a problem yet... Tire pressure has gone low, had to replace the purge control valve ...but thats it.
so my car starts to stutter after driving for a while but it wont stall just feels like no power when i give it gas. after cooling down runs great. will this fix the problem?
Same problem here after a while if i could ever get it going without stalling i was good but ive been replacing fuel pumps every 6 months i hope this really works
Great information....I'm experiencing the exact problem with my 2000 Accord EX/V6. I've replaced the IAC, spark plugs, main relay, cleaned the throttle body, blah blah blah.....and the problem still occurs weekly. It sucks but we already know that! I'm going to roll the dice and have my local Honda dealership put in a fuel pressure regulator without changing the PCM and will report back with the outcome. How does the alternator impact this issue? Isn't that the solution to your no start problem? I've got 310,000 miles on my accord and don't recall ever replacing the alternator, never having electrical charging issues. Any feedback would be great. ...
Jerry Caldwell did you fix the problem? My Honda does the same, starts fine, runs fine, but after few hours, will start but won't idle unless I ramp up for four minutes then, it will idle.
Jerry, Were you successful with resolving the Honda "Hot Soak" problem (reference service bulletin 00-024, dated Aug 8, 2000) by replacing the fuel pressure regulator without changing the PCM? I have the same issue. If I do need to change the PCM, could I go to a junkyard and get the PCM vs going to the dealer? I understand I could have a third-party company or the dealer reflash the junk-yard PCM with my VIN number (I understand the computer coded chip is also needed to do this, is that true?). Will that really work? All help appreciated! Thanks
Good job repeat! But high octane doesn't clean. It's just to prevent knocking. Fuel injector cleaner may have helped. God I hate these rube goldberg 'hoses everywhere anti emisssions' bullshit.
My car starts fine but after I turn it off and leave it for about 15 mins or 20 mins it won't start right up stalls if I leave the car off for 1 or 2 hrs this don't car starts right up will this help?
Had same problem i have been replacing fuel pump every six months ive changed my fuel pump relay erg valve all spark plugs n coil packs o n lets just say the catalytic converter to to some point lol so ime trying to figure out how not to replace a fuel pump every 6 months seems like if u let the car cool down it will start right up n run but after it runs n as long as its going down the highway i have no problem but red lights n any kinda stopping i been keeping my rpms above 2 still has problems only way i found to somewhat fix it for a couple of months is what i said earlier imma try what the video says n c if that works i got a 2000 honda accord 3.0L 6 cylinder
I tried this still getting the stalling, ruff idle after it sits for 15 mins and i try and start it. Is it a Fuel pressure regulator that needs to be replaced?
i have the problems as everyone, missing when cold for a second, then stalls when accelerating, but only once, then goes away, and the idle, when at running temp, will be too low. Will try this fix. i KNOW something is up with the fuel system, or sensors, or vacuum sys or something. FYI everyone! i've read allot about bleeding the air from the cooling system FIRST when having stalling problems. so check it too, it's pretty easy. Also, one comment below mentioned a bad alternator. You guys who STILL have your problems might want to test your alternators and check air in cooling. - make sure no air in cooling system; search for vacuum leaks(search youtube); try this video's fix, address the FPR; test your alternators.
I have dealt with this issue for several years (have also tried numerous parts swaps with no cure)... Anyway, I just started this procedure on my 2000 v6 (194K miles) a couple days ago... Currently the vacuum line is still off and I'm running injector cleaner (sea foam) with high test chevron... Bottom line: so far the car is running like a champ and the warm start issue is COMPLETELY GONE!!! Lifesaver!!! Follow-up question - If in two weeks (after reinstalling the vacuum hose) the problem persists, can I just leave the vacuum hose off indefinitely? Again, she seems to be running great this way...
BTW: I have yet to experience even ONE hard-start situation since doing this... Running and starting like a champ!!! However, my vacuum line is still off / plugged... Waiting a bit longer before reconnecting it...
Hi my accord has cold start issue, is it the same as what you had ? here's the sound it makes: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ce59WWMhafw.html
