He is spot on a street tune is the best way to tune a car. I got my car dyno tuned and the off boost drivability was TRASH! my AFR are way to rich in the upper rpm, lean at idle and part throttle and the car cuts when it reaches 5k rpm under slow acceleration. Unfortunately the average guy doesn't know how to street tune their cars so we have to pay $400+ to get our cars dyno tuned.
A Dyno is the best way to tune. It literally tells you if the car makes or loses power when adjusting tables. Part-throttle driveability issues are caused by a lazy tuner who only tunes your maps for WOT.
I paid to dyno tune the only thing good that came from it was I learn the threshold of my ignition map. That was the scariest part was moving ignition IMO. Like you described that how my car ran. Like crap everywhere except WOT terrible fuel mileage leana dn rich spots all over. I brought it to tuner with nice street tune excellent diveability I just couldn't WOT where I was living no space. Car ran perfect except the vtec map part. He tossed all that added a generic map and made 3 pulls and sent me on my way. Never will i ever pay for a dyno tune. WHAT a scam. Redline performance in Arlington TX sucks.
Inspired me to jump into tuning! Dyno costs and availability put a real damper on my motivation to get into this. Looking forward to giving you a shout out on my tune vids someday
Great video, I do agree Street tuning is great for daily drivability which Dyno doesn't cover, but the Dyno does help you see your engines max MBT and can be controlled in a safe environment.
Dyno is actually imperfect conditions. Typically on a dyno your car is ingesting a lot of exhaust air from inside the building even with the fan. On the street is cleaner air by far and that is just one factor. You cannot really say one is better than the other until you describe the type of tuning being done. Here in this video they did a lot of fuel changes which is easy on both the dyno and the street. The dyno really shines when it comes to dialing in your timing though as you can see exactly the point you should stop trying to make more power. You see this by knowing you made much less hp per psi you added in as you do your dyno tests. Cannot be done on the street.
I'm just getting into trying to Tune my Honda. Im kinda bummed I got Ktuner V2 instead of Hondata. But, your video's are a great help with knowing what to look for, what you can mess with and what to stay away from. I hope you keep making these vids, man.
Dyno tuning might be better for peak power but track tuning actually does what people think dyno tuning does. Numbers on a slip are better than numbers on a screen.
hey hey a little tip for everyone HTS is copied BMTune so i recommend everyone to go for both of them and pick which ever suits u better for tuning i use bmtune but for only datalogging and displaying all gauges i use HTS because of color scheme
Seems to be the same as my Non Vtec D16ZC. I timed the 2-3 or 40-80 and their both 9-10 seconds. Nice build! Would be interesting to see them neck and neck.
sick video bro. this vid and your 2 step vid have given me a lot of tips and pointers. just switched over to HTS from crome pro and i like it better in a lot of ways except the fact that it crashes on me sometimes and makes me lose the logging and adjustments i was doing. other than that its super dope. i have the same car, gauge pod cluster, and ostrich/hulog setup too, running a b20 vtec in mine. im kind of having a hard time figuring out the logging settings though, like the update delay, stack filter/size, sample rate etc. ive played around with settings for it but i cant tell whats the best way to set them. what do you put for those settings?
Im just getting into this type of tuning, and I do not have a civic yet, so im just wondering if everything used in this video works on every type of civic or just the d-series? Like I said im just getting into this, I have never touched a civic so yeah, would apreaciate some help.
hi please can you help me with my timing on my stock d16y7 none vtec really struggling to find a good tutorial on getting started especially in the timing area
I been trying to tune my own car.. turbo f23a block f22a head on a 95 accord.. I got it running on honda tuning suite but I want to learn how to set my ignition values.. I set my idle at 16 degrees but after that I'm not sure what to set them at.. I know how to get my air fuel adjusted to my target air fuels but the timing is what has me stumped
I used this guide to get my basemap started and working. I'm running generic 550cc injectors on a d16z6 on E85 and a little confused, should I still be aiming for 14.7 (car seems to run fine at this ratio but on E85 charts it says it should be more around 9.8 and the car seems to blow smoke at this ratio. Looks like I got a bit more learning to do in HTS, I'll see what else I can find in your videos that will help :)
Hey mikhail I have neptune and I set up my wideband with power to a25 ground to a26 and then o2 signal is to d14. Look up hamotorsports how to wet up wideband. It was very helpful for me
you kinda cant get the timing correct on the street though. street tuning is great but you'll allways leave power on the table when you dont fine tune your street tuned basemaps.
I’m sorry my guy but Dyno tuning is the ONLY way to see if the timing you’re adding is affecting the power. A street tune may leave power on the table or be too aggressive. A Dyno is a tool, it is meant to find the limits. Even knock sensor can be false, like on supercharged k series. The whine of the supercharger also interferes with the knock sound the sensor is listening for and can cause false knock. Which, on the street, would have you with very very low timing. Street tuning is def needed to see real world iat’s and load but a Dyno is the absolute best way to tune an engine. I get what you’re trying to say but you’re definitely incorrect.
Ok, but on a dyno..how do you know if your reaching the thresh hold of too much timing? Still have to resort to knock sensors, microphones, and reading plugs. I get how it's cool too see how changes are affecting the power out put but the same can be done by studying a time slip at the track. And it's not always about tweaking to find peak numbers ect its about reliability. Take a boosted single cam. With optimal timing you'll be blowing head gaskets because they're so sensitive. Something like that takes experience and practice knowing what it wants and the sweet spots ect. Dyno or not you learn what the car needs by trial and error. Some things a dyno just can't tell you. I totally agree that a dyno is a tool that makes it easier but im just trying to say it IS possible to get a great tune on the street but especially the track.
Their is nothing wrong with a street tune at all. Dynos are great because it's safe and you can see real gains or losses with timing and vtec changes more accurate then the butt dyno lol. Good tuner should always check logs on the street after a dyno.
It kept lifting the head and blowing head gaskets got so annoying. Im going b20 vtec soon anyway on to bigger and better things but still dogging on the single cam for as long as it'll last lol
@@BoBuilds gotcha... I built my d16y8 myself with speedfactory rods and vitara pistons. How many lbs of boost were you running? I don't want to blow mine. Can't go wrong with b20/vtec. Definitely more reliable!
@@v36vhr I have the same pitons and rods in my d16, it's a y7 block with z6 head and crankshaft. I've lifted the head twice now. Mine lifts somewhere between 24 and 29lb of boost. I'm on E85 and I run ~20 degrees at 10psi and taper down to ~10 degrees at 30psi. I was running at 17-18 psi reliably for a long time with no head lift as I was limited by my injectors. I'm now working on switching to a y8 head and 12mm ARP head studs to hopefully stop the head from lifting. Check out Rust Belt Auto here on RU-vid, he has a couple videos about the 12mm head stud conversion.
@@ethanlindsey thanks bro that was just the info I was looking for. I'm on 15 lbs on a 6062 turbo running 93 pump gas. I want to run 20 psi reliably. I have a bisimoto 2.4 turbo cam and I'm switching to e85. I hope to make a reliable 400 wheel. I don't know what my timing was adjusted to by the tuner. I just want to do all I can to prevent head lift and/or blowing my motor
Waddup bro i have P06 moates neptune demon v2 BT can you help me out street tunning it Details: 1997 honda civic auto to manual conv with a 99-00 engine harness Motor jdm D15b vtec DNA (ebay i guess) turbo Manual boost .......just wanna run 10lbs boost IF YOU CAN THANKS Great video knowledge 👍🏼👍🏼
Honda with a cvt . No need to tune. Its always go full trottle . And do not need use tuning stuf . Its do not work on a cvt . The car go not faster . I see that with my honda hv-r 1.6 with and without v-tec . Both are same pull speed and the top are almost the same.
Oh man, the video was just great til your comment about dyno tuning 🤦 I've been doing hondas for a few years and nothing compares to dyno tune... How you tune your ignition if you dont have any knock detection system (using dyno graph), IAT has its own table to compensate if temperature varies from dyno to street... Dynotune is WAY better than street. IMO and also In my EXPERIENCE. My 2 cents.
