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How much clothing did they *actually* have back then? 

Nicole Rudolph
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It's one of the most common questions, but also one of the most complex. The mythology surrounding our closet is difficult to prove or disprove, because every person is different. Our best bet is to take a look at the multitude of information available to piece together a story. From budgets to government surveys to fashion magazines, how much clothing (and how much you should spend on it) has been a hot topic for decades.
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Colonial Williamsburg article: www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/...
Inventories: research.colonialwilliamsburg...
1920 Standards of Living: www.google.com/books/edition/...
1923 Economics of the Family: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...
1929 Economic Principles of Consumption: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...
1888 The Practical Budget: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...
1923 Macy Budget: www.google.com/books/edition/...
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Edited with DaVinci Resolve: www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicsound.com
00:00 Elinor or Ann Eliza
03:56 18th c Inventories
08:33 Ready to Wear
10:31 Household Budgets
16:59 Clothing Prices
21:29 Wardrobe Lists
29:20 Nothing but Underwear

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19 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 379   
@kjmav10135
@kjmav10135 4 дня назад
My mom loved to tell the story of her grandmother (my great grandmother), who was born in 1870 and knew how to do every sort of needlework known to humanity. She had trunks and trunks full of, not only her own dresses from the 1880s - the current day, but also her mother’s old dresses. Those old dresses contained huge amounts of yardage! My mom was a teen during the depression. She’d get the movie magazines, show her grandmother the pictures and ask, “Gram, could you make this for me?” And Gram would say, “Oh, Amelia! I couldn’t possibly make THAT!” And then she’d go into her trunks and a week or two later, she’d have it finished and Mom was dressed in a pretty close copy of whatever Jeanne Harlow or Barbara Stanwyck was wearing! ❤
@katieserra6492
@katieserra6492 4 дня назад
What a sweet story!
@annetteboyd8940
@annetteboyd8940 3 дня назад
I love your story
@maraj117
@maraj117 2 дня назад
Your great grandma sounds like an amazingly sweet woman. Her skills are actually something I hope I can develop proficiently someday. 😊❤
@braceletlife28
@braceletlife28 12 часов назад
Love it!
@Tadfafty
@Tadfafty 2 часа назад
What happened to them? I am guessing sadly thrown out over the decades....
@kathyjohnson2043
@kathyjohnson2043 4 дня назад
I happen to know about my late 1800s ancestors in the rural Midwest because they talked about it: they made most of their clothes (except a men's suit, 3-5 dress shirts, and hat) so the women had 7-9 dresses, wearing the oldest ones for everyday including cleaning, gardening, etc. The kids had hand-me-downs as well as newly made outfits 'as needed' so the numbers varied but if a kid showed up to school repeating the same shirt or dress within a week, they were considered 'poor.' Since the wash was done once a week, having just over a week's worth of dress was considered practical. The other way I have of telling how much clothing the ladies had was that I still have their furniture: the chifforobe holds about 7 hanging dresses and 4 stacks of accessories. They also had a 4-door chest of drawers for undergarments, etc.
@missvioletnightchild2515
@missvioletnightchild2515 4 дня назад
That's absolutely brilliant, thank you! A very interesting insight
@kitefan1
@kitefan1 4 дня назад
Our relationship with clothing has drastically changed since the 1960s. My mother and father, both born in the late 1920s were about the same. But as children they had fewer changes. Even in the 1960s, when I was a kid when we came home from school we changed into our play clothes. Here in the northeast we had heavier items for winter as opposed to shorts and short sleeve tops for mid summer. My father usually had one suit and a sport coat with a few dress trousers in addition to his working gear.
@lemonblossom0
@lemonblossom0 4 дня назад
Interesting how kids still think that repeating the same shirt within a week makes you poor
@cinemaocd1752
@cinemaocd1752 4 дня назад
@@kitefan1 I was born in 1970. I remember distinctly having a drawer for play clothes that I would wear for playing outside. The clothes I wore to school were casual enough that I could play in the house in them without it being an issue, but if I was going to go out and ride my bike to a park, I would change just because my parents wouldn't want anything to get torn. I distinctly remember we got a Target in my town in the early 80s and after that play clothes/school clothes were virtually the same.
@TiredMom0714
@TiredMom0714 4 дня назад
Both my grandmas lived through the great depression. One was from a more well off family and the other was not. The more well off one had a modest amount of clothes. The other did not. At one point she only owned 2 dresses. She called them her good dress and her chore dress. Both were a hand-me-down and sew your own when you can family.
@zooblestyx
@zooblestyx 4 дня назад
We mere mortals are not meant to know how many socks we have. The cosmos keeps shifting them in and out of existence to confound us.
@VeretenoVids
@VeretenoVids 4 дня назад
😂😂😂
@margarethall1625
@margarethall1625 4 дня назад
You must be talking about the sock eater. The creature that is the reason for odd numbers of socks in the dryer after washing and drying clothes.
@judithgrace8359
@judithgrace8359 4 дня назад
I attribute all my lost socks to The Borrowers…where else would they go? I only take my socks off at home
@chaotic_crafter
@chaotic_crafter 3 дня назад
🧦😂😂
@kitefan1
@kitefan1 2 дня назад
Years ago at a friends house one of the visiting kids covered herself in juice. The home mom gave her a T-shirt and washed her whole outfit. When she opened the dryer we all saw one of the socks was caught halfway into the lint filter before it could escape.
@gray_mara
@gray_mara 4 дня назад
I was in a convent for a few years. We each had 2 summer habits (white dresses). We wore one for a week, then it went to the laundry. This is in the Australian summer with no fans or air conditioning. We had 3 sets of underclothes, including a T-shirt to soak up the sweat and a full petticoat with enormous pockets. These underclothes would be washed by hand to make them last the week, then sent to the laundry. In winter, we had one black dress. One. That we wore every single day for the full 6 months, with changes of underclothes the same as we did in summer. It wasn't unusual for a habit to last for 15 years or more, and all were made by hand.
@phenomadology23
@phenomadology23 3 дня назад
Wow! So cool to hear about. Do you know the fabric content of the habits? These days choir robes etc in my church are straight polyester, which while cheap and hard-wearing doesn't sound comfortable for everyday.
@gray_mara
@gray_mara 3 дня назад
@@phenomadology23 They were made out of serge. Probably old serge bought 50 years ago or more, because everything was bought in bulk and stored carefully.
@cecilyerker
@cecilyerker 3 дня назад
Nuns in convents honestly probably held a lot of knowledge about making fine clothing because some monasteries had cottage industries like lace making, cheese making or brewing beer or wine
@gray_mara
@gray_mara 3 дня назад
@@cecilyerker Some were certainly renowned for it. We made lace for altar linens, but it was more for something to keep the hands busy during Recreation, rather than a business model. You can get a lot done in 40 minutes a day and nothing, not even leisure time, was wasted.
@ericajacobs-perkins8036
@ericajacobs-perkins8036 4 дня назад
To weigh in on the "poor clergyman's daughter" scenario (as a modern clergyman's wife): clergy are generally expected to fit in with a socioeconomic class far above what their actual income would suggest. Of course this is highly variable by region and denomination, but the community we're in has a large proportion of people who own two homes and they don't quite understand why we can't afford a gardener and something better than an 11-year-old minivan (supporting two young children on a clergy salary and freelancing musician's income). The dynamic of "Though Mrs. Collins has no instrument, she is very welcome, as I have often told her, to come to Rosings every day, and play on the pianoforte in Mrs. Jenkinson’s room" is real and continues today and I am SURE that was a motivating factor behind those two formal silk dresses per year. Not to say that clergyman's family wasn't financially comfortable, just that they may have had a different standard of comparison than other technically middle-class families. If I had more time, I would find actual numbers because I know they're available!
@anonymousperson4214
@anonymousperson4214 4 дня назад
"We're basically just wearing underwear all of the time" was somehow not how I was expecting this to end. I really should have though, since human underwear through time is something I find very interesting. It also served to emphasize why dressing like a cartoon character (basically the same outfit all the time) has gotten slowly weirder with time. Because it's kind of literally being interpreted as underwear in terms of what it means for your personal cleanliness!
@kitefan1
@kitefan1 2 дня назад
Hunh. I hadn't thought about the cartoon characters. But I had thought about older stories and fiction about some deceased person being identified by their clothing. If a person only had one or two outfits, hand made or repaired by someone, this is pretty easy.
@janaekelis
@janaekelis 19 часов назад
i live in a country where we wear uniforms from kindergarten to A-Levels. so you can tell that we're never sure what to wear to university or a job without a uniform
@etheleiknem
@etheleiknem 4 дня назад
I love how this is about looking at data and addressing how we should be cautious of how we interpret it. I’m bored of the “hey did you know every single person in the past did this thing that was mentioned once by a visibly frustrated man?” Thanks for talking about the spectrums of our ancestors and giving them back their singular humanity.
@dezbiggs6363
@dezbiggs6363 3 дня назад
Or the "medevil peasents only worked 61 days a year." Simple cooking would be more labor intensive than what most people do daily.
@patiencenails6632
@patiencenails6632 4 дня назад
It's also remarkable how much less fabric is in our clothing nowadays. Like, I'm currently wearing a t shirt and a pair of shorts. Two yards worth of fabric, maybe? Compared to a full length full skirt, and a petticoat to match, and a shirt with puffy sleeves, and a jacket over that for a 1900 outfit. I could probably get half a dozen outfits easily out of the same quantity of yardage it took to make one.
@tjeanvlogs9894
@tjeanvlogs9894 4 дня назад
My grandfather when he came through Elise Island in 1920 at age 10 had a good suit with 2 good shirts, 3 sets of works clothes, a set of night clothes, a pair of work and good shoes, 8 sets of under things, a toiletry set, picture of his parents, a "repair" kit which included shoe needs and knitting needlrs for socks, a writing/school set, a bible and rosery.
@myladycasagrande863
@myladycasagrande863 3 дня назад
Did he come without his parents? The picture and the repair kit made me wonder. One of my ancestors arrived in the US alone at around the same age, because his father had died on the ship.
@tjeanvlogs9894
@tjeanvlogs9894 3 дня назад
@@myladycasagrande863 yes, his sister (10 years older) came over with her husband a year before settling in Seattle. Grandfather came by boat to NY then a train to Seattle without immediate family but with other from his region, so not quite alone.
@myladycasagrande863
@myladycasagrande863 3 дня назад
@@tjeanvlogs9894 thanks for filling in the story!
@cecilyerker
@cecilyerker 3 дня назад
Just reading that I can tell his parents loved him very much and provided well for him 😊
@jeannebrooks6003
@jeannebrooks6003 2 дня назад
My dad also came over in 1920 on the ship Kroonland from Antwerp. But he was 3 yrs old with family. Also ended up in Seattle region where I was born and raised.
@inconspicuous-mammal
@inconspicuous-mammal 4 дня назад
I'm a millenial, but was raised by my grandparents and always changed into "play clothes" when I got home from school. Its something I actually still do, because its really useful for keeping nice clothes nice. I even have nicer t-shirts I save for when leaving the house. 😅 I'm way too prone to get stains and rips in my clothing, and this helps with that.
@KateKanenator
@KateKanenator 3 дня назад
I do this too! As soon as I get home from work, I switch from business casual work clothes to "house clothes" which never leave my apartment.
@cecilyerker
@cecilyerker 3 дня назад
I change into house clothes because whatever I did outside of my home I probably brought germs from other people and I like to get my outside clothes washed promptly.
@TKOin2life
@TKOin2life 3 дня назад
I am gen X; I had play clothes, sleep clothes, school clothes and Sunday clothes. This explains why my closet is always overflowing.
@blumoon187
@blumoon187 3 дня назад
I've also started wearing tank tops under all of my shirts and bras so that I can rewear them a few times before chucking them in the wash. Bras are expensive and wear out the more you wash them!
@howcanikeepfromsinging
@howcanikeepfromsinging День назад
Me too. If I k ow I don’t have to leave the house until I have an event in the afternoon I don’t put on the shirt I want to wear out, because it likely won’t make it that far and still be clean although patterned things hide this better.
@violetofthevalley
@violetofthevalley 5 дней назад
I know most people just want a fast exciting answer, but I live how nuanced this description of history is. 💖
@PiskeyFaeri
@PiskeyFaeri 4 дня назад
[weeping in modern rent costs]
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
Imagine how much easier things would be if rent was 15-20% of your income and taxes were like 4%. The economist predictions for the future were based around that and honestly are so depressing just how great they thought everything would be. Including a 6 hour work week.
@courtneyquinn3188
@courtneyquinn3188 4 дня назад
​@@NicoleRudolphWhat do taxes in the USA go to? Like we have taxes in my country, but that pays for OK public education and OK public Healthcare.... what do you get for your taxes if you don't get public Healthcare?
@stephgreen3070
@stephgreen3070 4 дня назад
@@courtneyquinn3188the defense budget, social security payments and government subsidized healthcare programs are the top three things US taxes go towards.
@kagitsune
@kagitsune 4 дня назад
​​@@stephgreen3070And good luck ever seeing that social security pension or that subsidized healthcare when you actually need it 🙃🫠
@kerriemckinstry-jett8625
@kerriemckinstry-jett8625 4 дня назад
​@@courtneyquinn3188 Also, taxes in the US go towards rebuilding infrastructure (roads, bridges), schools, town services (including things like libraries), etc. Now, whether or not there is waste involved is a whole nother bundle of coconuts!
@archervine8064
@archervine8064 4 дня назад
I appreciate that you mentioned the time aspect. The average woman back then was probably a bit faster at hand sewing than today, just because of practice from early childhood but there’s still a huge difference between sewing a full garment and, say, repairing a tear or letting doen a hem.
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
As someone who has tried MANY times to make their entire daily wardrobe, it's nearly impossible. Even with training! And my grandmother (born in the 1910s) was always impressed that I could do that much.
@archervine8064
@archervine8064 4 дня назад
@@NicoleRudolph yep! And my great grandmother was a ranch owner’s wife and then left him and started her own business while being a single mom. So she’d be doing all this sewing when exactly…?
@user-uv9zr8qs2c
@user-uv9zr8qs2c 4 дня назад
@@NicoleRudolph but a lot of people did not do their own clothing, especially the middle class and richer ones
@susanrobertson984
@susanrobertson984 4 дня назад
I hand sew most of the time and make most of my clothes and it is hard. The list of things I could adjust because I lost weight or make because I don’t have something or whatever never ends. Add in knitting or weaving or spinning and I think it is more than a full time job.
@goldensloth7
@goldensloth7 4 дня назад
@@archervine8064 wow!!
@amymyers5503
@amymyers5503 4 дня назад
This reminds me of the Sam Vimes Boots Theory of Socioeconomic Unfairness from the Discworld book Men at Arms by Sir Terry Pratchett. Sam Vimes is the captain of the City Watch and goes through many pairs of boots. The Boots Theory has been discussed in the news recently by social activists and economists. The theory is based on how poor people spend more money over time on cheap boots that wear out quickly than wealthy people who can afford high quality boots that last for years. It is the most well known part of the discussion on income inequality in the book. However, people often overlook the other half of the theory about Lady Sybil Ramkin, Sam's wealthy fiance. Sam grew up in poverty. His salary in the city watch is basically poverty wages. He is engaged to the wealthiest woman in the city. Sam sees how inherited wealth and reusing high quality clothing and home furnishings makes it easier for Lady Sybil to spend less money than poor people over time, thus maintaining her wealth. You've made this point many times in your videos about how purchasing high quality clothing that lasts longer was a practical economic practice. Thanks for this look into history. I always appreciate your thoroughness, diversity in the people you represent, and citation of sources.
@denisha8596
@denisha8596 4 дня назад
Discworld novels just keep giving.
@amymyers5503
@amymyers5503 4 дня назад
@denisha8596 Yes they do. Pratchett's satirical social commentary is relevant today. I love Lady Sybil. She just DAGF what people think about her. She's kind to everyone.
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 4 дня назад
As someone from a very poor social background, this is exactly true. As a lower class working woman today, this is even more true, you must look fashionable, but not too fashionable. So if you do manage to buy something of good quality you can't keep wearing for 10 years because then you don't look right for your job.
@kagitsune
@kagitsune 4 дня назад
Being poor is very expensive!
@DipityS
@DipityS День назад
So happy to see what I was thinking already her in the comments - I love that Lady Sybil's fellow dragon rescuers tramped about looking like the local mad woman scarecrow and were however Duchess this and Lady that 😊 Feeling the love for Sir Terry Pratchett.
@m.maclellan7147
@m.maclellan7147 4 дня назад
Another angle I thought you might mention is the "central heating" aspect. Wearing multiple layers makes sense when heating is not as common ! I know in my grandmother's rural home, the heating was the kitchen stove and a fireplace.
@starsun6363
@starsun6363 4 дня назад
This is very true! People don't realize how much that changes things. The only reasons why you can see people standing outside in the cold in nothing but shorts and t-shirts (however crazy they may seem) is that they have a guaranteed warm place to go back into. Whereas back in the day you could get frostbite from standing in the edge of a room, far away from the stove or fireplace.
@kikidevine694
@kikidevine694 2 дня назад
There's a joke in the UK (amongst certain social circles) that in the most aristocratic homes you wear your outdoor layers indoors because the heating is atrocious in these old houses, even now
@roxiepoe9586
@roxiepoe9586 4 дня назад
When I started college in 1974 my wardrobe was dramatically different than that of my roommate and suite mates. The sorority pledge had sooooo many clothes. She actually kept much of her clothing in the trunk of her car because there wasn't room for it in our closets. The coolest, hippy vibe girl had lots and lots of things that looked a lot alike. All of her many pairs of low-rise, bell bottom jeans were virtual clones and her many drapey, halter top, poncho tops all gave the appearance of having been stolen from a middle eastern street market. (Turned out that her parents were CPAs with totally suburban style and she had morphed into cool/hippy girl in the summer before university.) Girl 3 was 'normal'. Her style evolved in semester one from double knit to denim with t-shirts from Sears. I was a first generation in college, working class, sewed most of my own clothes - paid for all of them myself so they were very considered choices - 2 pairs of jeans girl. I made super plain basics and added distracting self-crafted accessories.(vests, hats, bags, scarves...) I had plenty of closet space. I even had a powder blue, double knit, shirt/pants/skirt set for wearing to church. I secretly envied their clothes, and they openly envied mine.
@sewmeonekenobi639
@sewmeonekenobi639 4 дня назад
I was a Joann’s a couple weeks ago and a lady in the line asked me if I make clothes. She said making clothes is probably cheaper than buying already made clothes, right? I and another person explained that it actually costs a lot more to make clothes. She was surprised.
@missvioletnightchild2515
@missvioletnightchild2515 4 дня назад
Even when buying cheap fabrics, it still ends up more expensive. You can tell she clearly didn't make her own 😅
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
Turns out, the upcharge and overhead on getting raw fabric to you isn't much different than finished clothing. And you don't get the bulk discounts!
@susanrobertson984
@susanrobertson984 4 дня назад
The difference is that something I make is not comparable on quality to a cheap import but rather to a higher end brand. At least I am getting closer to that standard!!
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
BUT, buying clothes that actually fit is more expensive by the time you have it tailored. And good luck if there is not enough fabric for trousers to be long enough.
@sarahr8311
@sarahr8311 4 дня назад
Right? I can go to the thrift store and find a pair of business pants for under $20 easily, $10 if I'm a common size and not picky. If I find fabric for $8/yd (that would be a good sale) and only need 3 yards (I'm small) that's already more than the thrifted pants plus I still have to do all the work of making them.
@jessicav2031
@jessicav2031 4 дня назад
What surprises me most is that they show the rich spending almost as much on food as the poor. Even if that includes things like chefs, bakers, kitchen staff, etc., you can still only eat so much!
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
Some of the budget manuals mention how much more “entertaining” happens as you go up in income so I assume it’s related. Also feeding all of said staff!
@rosemarielee7775
@rosemarielee7775 3 дня назад
The quality and price of the food would change dramaticaly. Lobster not herring, steak not cows heels.
@DragonriderEpona
@DragonriderEpona 4 дня назад
What always comes to my mind when the question of "how many clothing did they own back then" is one section of Les Misérables. Hugo describes how Marius only has two shirts. One that is at the laundry lady, the other one is that he is wearing. This description and others are used to emphasise how utterly poor these characters are! Most of them are the poorest of the poor. (That's why it's also named the miserables.) So yes, unless you were near or actually living in absolut poverty, people owned more than two sets of clothing.
@ragnkja
@ragnkja 4 дня назад
Two sets of visible garments might be reasonable (if less than the average person had), but only having two shirts was as extreme then as it is now. Imagine having only two T-shirts and two pairs of underpants! Sure, it’s possible to get by with so little, but it’s not at all practical.
@cecilyerker
@cecilyerker 3 дня назад
Human sweat and body oil will rapidly break down a shirt if you only have two in rotation. Even the rate at which it has to be laundered will break it down even further.
@visitingfromsantafe1329
@visitingfromsantafe1329 2 дня назад
And yet, he could afford to pay the laundry lady who was poorer yet.
@captnflint
@captnflint 2 дня назад
in fairness, marius as a character is actually basically cosplaying as poor. we don't get a description of, say, feuilly's wardrobe, who would be a much better indicator of a true poor working class person in that social circle. ​@@visitingfromsantafe1329
@captnflint
@captnflint 2 дня назад
i would not use marius as an indicator of what people normally did. his having two shirts is more to show that he's kind of a dweeb and is portraying his idea of a poor bohemian as, more or less, an act of teenage rebellion. the pontmercys have money, marius just chooses to not use it in order to try and fit in with his chosen social circle - almost none of which are the actual working poor they talk about either. of all of les amis d'abc, only feuilly is an actual labourer... the rest are students of various (and mostly unclear) economic background - not the richest, but definitely not destitute. les amis are Not "les miserables" - they're a bunch of idealistic young guys who are choosing to throw in with and throw down for those who are. what their understanding and estimation of actual poverty and working poor people's lives are like is widely varies in its accuracy. enjolras praises feuilly constantly because of how noble he sees him for being the only one of them who actually comes from the class they're seeking to bring equality to. it's part of why the june rebellion failed - not enough actual working poor were able or willing (for various reasons) to join in the fight, leaving the student organizers vastly overpowered. hence, in the musical, when confronted at the barricade, the army calls out to the revolutionaries that "the people of paris sleep in their beds" and questions why they throw their lives away for those who will not risk standing up with them. so, no, most people, even the working poor, didn't only own two shirts. marius owns two shirts because he is a dork who thinks that's what poor people do, and also a dork who doesn't put much into his personal bearing. i'm pretty sure courfeyrac specifically even gives him shit about not dressing better a few times.
@victoriab931
@victoriab931 4 дня назад
I think you need to consider the possibility that these magazines are telling people to over purchase. I stopped reading magazines years ago. But I remember they tended to give very "aspirational" consumer advice even for people on a budget. For example, magazines from the 00s told you to replace all your bras every year. Something few people actually do.
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 4 дня назад
Which means if you are well developed that is your entire clothing budget. A 34 H costs a lot more then a 38C assuming you can find one.
@VeretenoVids
@VeretenoVids 4 дня назад
@@lenabreijer1311 Exactly! My friends are aghast when I tell them that if I can find a well fitting bra for $50 it's a bargain and I'll get three. I definitely wear them until they are no longer serviceable in any way.
@faeriesmak
@faeriesmak 4 дня назад
@@VeretenoVidsSame with me being a size 36AAA. I think that on average one bra for me is $65.00. I wear them as long as possible. Luckily I don’t have much to support so I can get away with doing that.
@maryel5398
@maryel5398 4 дня назад
@@VeretenoVidsI was lucky that one of the two specialty bra shops in my state was in the city where I lived when I wore an N cup. (Yes. N. They go to P.) If I found something under $75 I rejoiced. And the internet was my friend when I found something that fit, because I would buy that in multiples! Thank god for reduction surgery, but I definitely spent a much higher percentage of my “clothing budget” on bras. I always said if the house was burning down, I would still need to slip into the laundry room and grab all my bras that were hanging up to dry.
@missanne2908
@missanne2908 3 дня назад
@@maryel5398 The back pain you had with an N cup must have been horrendous, unless your back muscles were super super strong and you had a very supportive bra. It hurts to think about it!
@kellyburds2991
@kellyburds2991 4 дня назад
...I hold onto clothes a lot longer than is apparently normal. I have still wearable clothing that's...17-18 years old? I've had to mend it, obviously, but my favorite pieces will remain until they literally fall apart.
@earniemaedeen2703
@earniemaedeen2703 3 дня назад
My mother was born in the late 30s and her father was a share crop farmer. Their closet was a nail driven into the wall and clothes were hung on the nail. A trunk held the folded garments. Nicole is talking about middle to upper class families.
@M.Datura
@M.Datura 4 дня назад
This makes me realise that despite my continous interest in fashion, I have likely always had a quite limited wardrobe because I've been thinking about clothing as something that I don't want to replace frequently. By neccessity, because I have a non-standard body shape, but still there's definitely a conscious choice there. It also makes me more conscious of how I think about my wardrobe. Now to go think on that some more.
@starsun6363
@starsun6363 4 дня назад
Another thing to emphasize how cost has changed is how much fabric is used in the garment! Like you said, fabric is the main cost in garments back in the day. You need 7-9 yards of fabric to make the average "non working" dress back in the 19th century. (And I'd gander a guess at 4-6 for working dresses) But by the 1930s you only need 3-5. I'd say that that nowadays you need 1-5 yards of fabric for that, because we just cover less. Underwear is much more minimal to. We need probably about a quarter to half of a yard to make your average panties, whereas in the 19th century you'd need like 2 or 3 to make underthings. Plus, the corset. We also have simplified the clothes so you need less notions. Surging ranges supreme. No bias tape, boning, fewer to no linings, no horsehair and less modern day interfacing. Clothing has also gotten simpler and easier to make (on average) too. Sweat pants, leggings and t-shirts have become our "at home and working/relaxing" clothes, and those are very simple to make. But even our public clothing is simpler, though it can get more complex. I'd say the average most complex thing we have in our daily wardrobe nowdays is bras, which can get VERY expensive. Especially for plus sized people. That, with fabric costs going down with the rise of synthetics and knit fabrics, I would argue- clothing *is* cheaper than it was in the past. But we are spending about the same because it wears out quickly, and like you pointed out, we spend more on outerwear because the underwear has become so minimal. Thus our wardrobes *seem* bigger, but really we just have different proportions on what we need to function in society. Honestly, I'd love to see more of a balance. I think that more people investing in quality pieces of clothing is great, especially for staples, but having that cheap available clothing is nice too, especially for those of lower income. Of course, this isn't considering how the people who are making these clothes are being paid and treated... which is a whole other mess.
@lizcademy4809
@lizcademy4809 4 дня назад
I did a similar, strictly modern exercise like this a few years ago. I always bought a lower quantity of higher quality clothes. But after about 10 years of "genteel poverty" (very, very low income, but the already purchased inventory of upper middle class), I landed a job that a) paid very well, b) required an "office formal" wardrobe. My "how much things should cost" estimator was set back in the 1980s, so way, way off current pricing. I looked at a lot of those budget spending charts, and found out that if I spent per the charts, I'd buy $2,500 of clothing per year. I then looked at what items I'd need to buy ... and suddenly, spending $200 for a summer dress that could last 3-4 years was NOT too expensive! [I own 3-4 summer dresses for the office, plus skirts, trousers and tops.] This also influenced my fabric purchases for things I sew ... $60 of yardage for a dress is not too much money.
@inconspicuous-mammal
@inconspicuous-mammal 4 дня назад
I'm still poor, I just use threadup now and search by fabric type. 😅 Its helped to improve my wardrobe a lot.
@faeriesmak
@faeriesmak 4 дня назад
@@inconspicuous-mammalI thrift almost everything and make sure to avoid polyester and poorly constructed clothing as much as possible. It is getting more difficult to do, though!
@annematusiewicz3712
@annematusiewicz3712 4 дня назад
@@inconspicuous-mammal Me too! But Poshmark instead of Threadup.
@nidomhnail2849
@nidomhnail2849 4 дня назад
I applaud you for driving deep into household incomes and budgets. This world is my day job. Some comments. One major change in household income that is not accounted for by the numbers is that the households in the 1970s and earlier were based on one-wage earners, while later, a growing share of households consisted of two-wage earners. You see the change in the angle of the graph (timestamp 20:47) around 1970. Households have reduced in size over this period as well. Unlike food, clothing is (somewhat) classified as a durable good. You are aware of this because your discussions include stories on recycling fabric. As a child (and oldest daughter), I got hand-me-downs from older cousins. Statistics are good at measuring non-durable goods like food, but the dollars households spend on clothes are closer to measuring the replacement cost of clothes in their wardrobes. Households with children may require a larger budget for clothes unless they have older cousins and their schools have mandatory uniforms. Changes in non-economic characteristics creep into these household cost numbers. Still, this is an excellent summary.
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
Oh! I like the durable goods concept. There's definitely way more than I could fit into the one video (I desperately want someone to do an entire economic history channel). It feels like every single aspect of calculation changed over the last century! All of this has at least really helped me refocus some of the other research I've been doing on consumerism and class. I was fortunate to take one proper Econ class in grad school at least (and it helps that I love numbers and math).
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
You are reminding me that expected.lifespan changes dramatically affected household sizes. In 1900 I believe a man's life expectancy was 45 and a woman's life expectancy was 35 due to mortality associated with child birth. Also, pre- penicillin childhood disease child mortality by the age of 5 was about 50%. Yellow fever, Spanish flu, 1957 and 1967 flu epidemics and COVID impacted household size and redistributions of wealth. Social/cultural changes like women working, divorce rates, single mother heads of households also tremendously affect household sizes and budgets. Housing shortages of war time and depression eras, recessions put pressure on household size and budget.
@kitefan1
@kitefan1 4 дня назад
Yes, two income middle class households changed a lot of things. And I wore non-cheap clothing, not designer but well-made, in my 20s.
@LeighsLittleLife
@LeighsLittleLife 4 дня назад
@@eileencarroll6418you might double check what’s represented by the life expectancy numbers. They tend to skew low based on childhood mortality. Iirc, if you survived to 5 years old, you could probably expect to reach at least 50 for most of human history
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
@@LeighsLittleLife Here what's close to what I was remembering. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4984780/#:~:text=In%201900%2C%20the%20estimated%20life,women%20it%20was%2033.5%20years.
@kagitsune
@kagitsune 4 дня назад
Finally, some good effing data 😤 This is genuinely one of the best essays on fashion history I have ever seen. Your work continues to amaze, Nicole! In addition to budgets and how we're essentially "wearing underwear as outerwear" now, I am also interested in how our architecture, work, transportation, and even means of communication affect our clothing. Like the theory that car travel reduced the time that men wear structured brimmed hats. Or how I can't practically wear Japanese traditional clothing in most Western buildings because the sleeves get caught on door handles!
@Lisargarza
@Lisargarza 4 дня назад
My mom was born 100 years ago (1924) and can confirm the two dress rule. You wore😢 one dress all week to school and had one better dress for church or dances.
@proudtobeanamerican
@proudtobeanamerican 4 дня назад
Homes built into 40's 50's had very small closets. There used to home economists guide on how much clothing a person needed. Usually a marriage trousseau has a number of garments.
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
Most clothing was stored in chests and other furniture! Only a few suits and dresses needed to be hung up. Underwear, jeans, shirts, etc all were folded and pressed before wearing if needed.
@jamespolivka7756
@jamespolivka7756 4 дня назад
People had armoires and wardrobe racks. Seasonal items were stored in basements.
@jeanettemullins
@jeanettemullins 4 дня назад
The old 30s wardrobes in my family are about half shelves, half hanging inside. They're each a bit different but roughly that. They're extremely deep though but not much wider than modern wardrobes which so often seem to be too shallow to hang properly. The swallow a lot of clothing.
@krystelhardesty9960
@krystelhardesty9960 4 дня назад
@@jamespolivka7756 My grandmother would keep out of season clothing in the attic because they lived near a river so the basement would flood. But she told me they would pretty much put away the whole seasons clothing and bring down the next set. They lived in northern Wisconsin so it was pretty cold and the coats were pretty big and they didn't have a ton of room so it was just easier to store what wasn't being worn.
@VeretenoVids
@VeretenoVids 4 дня назад
@@krystelhardesty9960 We still do this because our house was built in the 1910, so there are only two closets in the whole house and we haven't had the $$ to buy period appropriate armoires/wardrobes for each bedroom.
@kirstenpaff8946
@kirstenpaff8946 4 дня назад
16.6% of a budget on housing? This blows my 2024 mind. How was housing so cheap?
@jakecavendish3470
@jakecavendish3470 4 дня назад
It was pretty much 90% rental (even some of the richest families rented their town property) and building costs and residential land values were pretty low in the C19th and early C20th. Domestic building stock wasn't seen as an especially good investment, most people looking to invest in property put their money into infrastructure like railways, agricultural land and factories, not housing. The other reason was that getting a mortgage on a residential property was almost unheard of, so the market couldn't rely on inflated house prices being carried by the banks (mortgages worked the opposite way to now, you could normally only mortgage a house if you already owned it outright and were trying to liquidate capital)
@kirstenpaff8946
@kirstenpaff8946 3 дня назад
@@jakecavendish3470 Thank you for the thorough explanation. Still kind of blows my mind how cheap rent must have been. I feel like I spend 40+% of my monthly income on rent.
@jakecavendish3470
@jakecavendish3470 3 дня назад
@@kirstenpaff8946 I know, mine is basically 50% of my income 😪
@user-dj4bi4tt4s
@user-dj4bi4tt4s 3 дня назад
I normally don't comment but have to applaud you on the level of economic research that went into this video. PhD worthy and very impressive. 👏
@kitefan1
@kitefan1 4 дня назад
Our relationship with clothing has drastically changed since the 1960s. I have a copy of a 1940s sewing book (reprinted from US Government.) It talks about how to reverse collars, set waists on women's dresses and so on. If you read the Laura Ingalls Wilder books (late 1800s), she talks about what they had. They had one nice dress for Sundays, a second pretty good one as adults and work or house dresses. In the Wilder books, they make Mary a wardrobe for her going away to school. They got patterns from Ladies books as you said. The stay at home wife did a lot of the basic sewing. Makes sense that the woman would get the patterns from the dress maker. The dressmaker was probably on-board with it because she probably had enough people to do plain sewing for her. I also have the idea that you could sell your clothing that no longer fit, at least in Europe As always a wonderful video.
@ericajacobs-perkins8036
@ericajacobs-perkins8036 4 дня назад
The Ingalls family was very poor. Prairie Fires by Caroline Fraser has some good actual numbers (and is a great read overall), but Laura's childhood memories edited for the sake of a children's novel with a very clear, almost-propaganda moral should not be taken as a norm for most of middle-class America.
@rejoyce318
@rejoyce318 3 дня назад
In the 1940s, not only was WWII being fought so there was rationing, but they had endured the Depression before that. My great-grandmother made each of her 3 granddaughters crazy quilts that re-used dresses made from flour sacks when they were girls. I remember my mom & my aunts reminiscing about the original dresses used to make the quilt design.
@kitefan1
@kitefan1 2 дня назад
@@ericajacobs-perkins8036 Thanks for the book suggestion. Yes, I had realized they were pretty poor. If you compare the Ingalls to the Wilders in "Farmer Boy" it was obvious. As I grew older I didn't think so much of Charles "Pa" Ingalls. But I also know that in the Mid-West and South people really did make clothing out of printed flour sacks. I have a flour sack quilt from the unpatterned variety. Fairly prosperous middle-class men didn't have seven suits.
@jeanettemullins
@jeanettemullins 4 дня назад
My parents had an old pair of matching wardrobes. My mum still has them. I think they were made in the 1930s. Sometimes I think about how physically huge and deep they are and how big the chest of drawers they also had were. I think in practice they had similar amounts of storage to my modern fitted wardrobes so it makes sense that they had a similar amount of clothes to store as we do now. We just change the kind of clothes we buy.
@Woeschhuesli
@Woeschhuesli 3 дня назад
I don‘t know if anyone else has pointed out geographical differences, but I don‘t think English people had much, according to my granny (1916-2017). My grandparents had his/hers wardrobes, hers being even smaller than his already modest-sized one… the assumption being a man has broader shoulders, I guess. The „hers“ wardrobe accomodated about 7-8 light hanging garments (hung facing rather than sideways) and shallow shelves on either side held accessories (hats, bags). In the early 80s this is what I stuffed my jeans/tshirt teen wardrobe into. There was also a chest of drawers for foldables (sweaters cardigans) and my grandad‘s shirts and underwear and a low dressing table with 2 drawers for granny‘s underpinnings. Personal belongings were also kept in these drawers, mementoes etc. And some home linens… So they didn‘t have much! Granny did sew all their clothing until the 1960s but continued the lifelong habit of sewing, altering, cutting down etc. until she was 95.
@darknessfierce4209
@darknessfierce4209 4 дня назад
People talk about the size of the closet in terms of how big the wardrobe was, but commonly worn items would be hung on pegs, and there was probably a trunk or drawers that stored things as well.
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
Cedar chests were common to every household for storing all wool clothing up until the 1970s.
@jakecavendish3470
@jakecavendish3470 4 дня назад
Hiring clothing was also a big business in the C18th and C19th. Even members of the English upper classes actually rented their finest clothes. In fact there are C18th portraits of entirely unrelated upper class women wearing precisely the same dress which means they either rented them from the same shop or it was a stock prop in the painter's studio
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 2 дня назад
James Tissot's stock clothes are easy to spot!
@demoncorejunior
@demoncorejunior 17 часов назад
you can rent clothes today also! i love to do that for an event where im not likely to need another formal outfit for a couple of years
@chadr1856
@chadr1856 3 дня назад
coordinating your green money piece w/ your shirt & ascot is beyond fierce
@elizabethdavis1696
@elizabethdavis1696 4 дня назад
22:07 a laundry layer maybe we need more of those for modern clothes like a slip for trousers that can washed?
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
I use Numi t-shirts for similar reasons! I wish there were more brands and styles like that.
@susanrobertson984
@susanrobertson984 4 дня назад
I call them leggings and wear them under most of my skirts. I also made loose linen sort of a slip but really trousers that I also wear in the summer and it is super comfie.
@margiechism
@margiechism 4 дня назад
Wearing 18th century working class today ■ my grandson approached me outdoors in my meadow garden and said, "Your clothes you are wearing look 'finer than all' of your clothes/other combined." He stated this attire appeared to be farming clothes; I added they were/are for washing dishes and clothes, and for vegetable and flower gardening/gathering. M
@kagitsune
@kagitsune 4 дня назад
How wonderful ❤ Do you like working in your 18th century clothes? I find that our ancestors often had more practical solutions for garments and handiwork than we often do.
@margiechism
@margiechism 4 дня назад
@@kagitsune Adding piece to piece ■ I now know what 'pulling strings' is about. I have personally chosen to add these clothes to my homelife; do consider if applicable away from home in the future. It is a quality and design that I choose to share in my life with others. I do very much enjoy wearing these garments; learning how to [b]it the stay..."stay put" makes since now! M
@txspacemom765
@txspacemom765 3 дня назад
My Nana had 2 nice pant suits, 2 out of the house wearing dresses , 2 house dresses (made by her), 4 pairs of shoes- flats, mules, snow boots, sneakers. 2 blouses, 1 winter coat, 1 light jacket for Spring/Fall, 1 tweed jacket, 2 button down sweaters, 1 pair of pedal pushers, 2 pairs of walking shorts, 4 summer tops- 2 cotton, 2 dressier, 2 sets of pj's, 1 bathrobe, 1 pair of slippers, 9 sets of bras and panties, 1 slip. 1 pocket book, 1 fancy clutch, 2 bandanas to wrap her hair when she set it, 4 pairs of earrings, 2 necklaces, wedding ring set, grandmother's ring, When she passed, this is what I remember her wearing for years and it's what we cleaned out of her home. It fit into a medium sized suitcase, minus the shoes and winter coat.
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
Great overall conclusions. I did have trouble comprehending the impacts of war time scarcities and rationing in the data. Reusing and remaking fabric made a lot of sense, but the concept of hand-me-downs, especially for siblings in large families seemed to be mysteriously absorbed in budgets. Perhaps it was so universal that everyone assumed passing around children's clothing within families was too normal to mention. As a younger sister I mostly received new panties, shoes and socks up until I started high school when I got a job and bought my own clothes. In 7th and 8th grade, my sister bought me one full school outfit at the beginning of the school year and my parents bought me one school outfit and one Christmas outfit each year. In 7th grade, I received a windfall of clothing abandoned at a family dry cleaners (lots of nice quality wool skirts). In high school, I learned to sew and creatively raided clothes my parents had grown out of to repurpose and re-sew. I could sew a pair of high waist, wide leg trousers in two hours if I had fabric and a zipper in 1974. Between earning money for fabric and brand new bras learning sewing skills made the world of difference to my self esteem. I was motivated to make a new dress for each high school dance. Simultaneously, Richard Nixon's 1972 trip to China opened up trade that reduced clothing prices over the following decades through our current era of fast fashion. When I graduated from college in 1979, I struggled to find a work dress for under $200 in the clearance racks. Still in 2024, it's easy to buy a dress for under $100 that can be worn to an office job. And it's a shame that so few women learned to sew during that period. If trade with China changes due to trade tariffs, war over Taiwan or more shipping glitches, the cost of clothing could change dramatically. OR, are clothing budgets more determined by funds available after necessities are paid for? E.g., as gas prices go up, do clothing budgets take the hit to compensate? Are clothing budgets more a reflection of expendable income? I wonder if the increase in the 1920s is more a measure of prosperity than inflation. Certainly the smaller clothing budgets after the Great Depression made sense. Flour sack dresses speak to the skills and ingenuity of women compensating for available cash being sparingly spent on necessities. My mother's family ate oatmeal three times a day when they had to. They made all their own clothes, window coverings, table linens, hats. Old shoes were repaired and worn to shreds. Coats Were worn to threads. By the time WWII rationing came around, my mother was wearing shoes made of cardboard and sewing dresses from tablecloths and sheets. Thread pulling was a common decorative technique. Women also crocheted tiny lace doilies, collars and cuffs from cotton string. My grandmother crocheted floor rugs from string. She also used a yard stick, cotton string and cut up strips of pillow ticking and fabric scraps to weave rag rugs. She only hand-sewed two quilts. I am proud of the resourcefulness and skills of the women in my family. They found a way to compensate for lack of cash to fill the fairly constant need for clothing. Gosh, I had not intended such a long comment and I appreciate this space to think things through . I have been thinking about how our relationship with China might change in the future and how that might impact how we budget. Thanks for such a stimulating video . ❤❤❤
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
I forgot to mention all the sweater, hat/scarf/mitten and blanket knitting and crocheting that was done. And when clothing was beyond wearing, buttons, zippers and other clasps were removed and reused.
@faeriesmak
@faeriesmak 4 дня назад
That was a fantastic comment. Thanks for sharing!
@wintermute5974
@wintermute5974 3 дня назад
Not just China, from the 1970s you're seeing major opening up of global markets so people can take advantage of cheaper labor + things like spread of shipping containers massively lowers the cost of moving both finished goods and raw materials around the world. I suspect that this is probably a big part of the reason the price of clothing starts taking up a smaller proportion of incomes from the 1980s onwards in the chart around the 20:00 mark.
@mmeggnn
@mmeggnn 4 дня назад
the level of joy i feel when u post a new historical fashion deep dive is unmatched. you are an INCREDIBLE script writer and researcher. i am obsessed with how u present information!
@user-wb4cl7wm7n
@user-wb4cl7wm7n 4 дня назад
My grandmother had a winter coat a lightweight summer/fall coat a hat, three dress and jacket outfits a pair of slippers, a pair of court shoes and evening shoes a nightie a dressing gown and her hairnets and summer and winter gloves.
@annas.2570
@annas.2570 4 дня назад
I am curious how knitting and crocheting fit this scenario. I know that women knitted and crocheted much more than now and often made many elaborate garments. I have come across gorgeous lacy dress patterns from 1920s, knit skirt and sweater sets from 1940 and 50s, not to mention a plethora of crocheted accesories like purses, hats, scarves, lacy gloves and even jewelry. All women in my family knitted and crocheted clothes using the patterns in the magazines. I recently talked about this to my grandma, and she said that in the 50s and 60s women knitted and crocheted large parts of winter wardrobe for the whole family, and every woman she knew had this skill, which blows my mind.
@karladenton5034
@karladenton5034 3 дня назад
As the daughter and grand daughter of knitters and a knitter myself, I would say that in my family all the socks and stockings that weren't hosiery (nylons), hats of the beanie/touque type (IE for warmth, not fashion), mittens and winter gloves not made of leather, all sweaters (male and female) were made at home.
@erinwojcik4771
@erinwojcik4771 2 дня назад
As a person who wore hand-me-downs, patches, and home made items because I was raised poor and who does well enough for herself now that those same techniques while a money saver are also a comfort as well as hobby, I appreciate this video deeply. While patching or making my clothing is more of a bragging right these days, I love the idea of repurposing fabrics and wearing layers so as to wear out the undergarments first. In fact, I just bought a used flat sheet today at the local thrift store to make pillow cases as one set I have has worn to the point of holes and needs to be replaced. The thirft store didn't have any two matching pillowcases, so I chose to purchase the sheet and do the sewing myself. Plus, there will be extra fabric with which to make something else. Perhaps, I can use it to create a t-shirt or maybe a skirt.
@pmclaughlin4111
@pmclaughlin4111 4 дня назад
I love how you demonstrate how complex and nuanced figuring out the research, the graphs, the reasoning on why a question like do we own more clothing now can be. Most people want simple "obvious" answers...
@joyfulsquirrel
@joyfulsquirrel 4 дня назад
I love the want vs need aspect of clothing finances! I live in PA so there is no tax on clothing. Makes so much sense, like you said, cannot function in society without it!
@sheepysnowtato824
@sheepysnowtato824 3 дня назад
Watched up to about 28 minutes of this, got distracted and rant-daydreamed to myself for about an hour, remembered this existed and finished it, and I can confidently say that I thoroughly enjoyed this video and will probably watch more of your stuff after I go to bed cause it is currently 1:45 am :]
@dagnolia6004
@dagnolia6004 2 дня назад
had in-laws visiting over the weekend and a little buzz in the back of my head for TWO days was "Nicole has a new vid!". hurrah, i watched it today... two days late! it was excellent as always.
@elizabethnahu3422
@elizabethnahu3422 День назад
I'm currently rereading the Anne of Green Gables series and the way in which new clothes are diccussed, and fashion in general, has suggested to me the 'they only owned three dresses' back than narratuve is quite true. For instance, when Anne goes to collage, or when her friend character gets married, they seem to have most pieces of new wardrobe made in prepation, which isn't something you would neccesarily do today. Characters also fairly frequantly dicuss getting a new dress thoughout the book, and it seems to be a point of pride and reputation to make sure you and your family and well dressed.
@jobellecollie7139
@jobellecollie7139 2 дня назад
My family has always worked with a budget. My Grandmother’s budget, which I have framed in my office, is my guide. My Grandfather was a Senior Military Officer and my Grandmother owned an Interior Decorator Company. The budget I have has nothing about clothing, but I knew my Grandmother always had a fine wardrobe. Her monthly income was $300. This is 1940’s. The top line was on Temple Dues (Tithe) $30. The next line was Savings and Stock at $30. Her favorite stock was AT&T. Household budget was $50, which was food, wine, entertainment fund and “children’s needs”. She also spent $75 to buy items for her supplies and items for her Interior Decorating Company. After these major budget lines, was just set aside for future use. My current budget may have larger numbers as income (based on inflation) but the %’s are still the same. I don’t buy AT&T, but I still do invest. My family has always tried to avoid debt, which has made generations live comfortably. We were never ashamed to admit we could not afford XYZ, and stuck to our budgets.
@beagleissleeping5359
@beagleissleeping5359 4 дня назад
I remember as a kid we used to get a catalog where you could order a package of 7 pairs of underwear, each one with a different day in the week written across the butt.😂
@kohakuaiko
@kohakuaiko 4 дня назад
I still had that kind in Jr high school 😂
@happycook6737
@happycook6737 День назад
I had those and so did my friends at school. One friend wore Sunday on Friday by mistake and she cried because she thought she "broke" the whole set! 😂
@theresaanndiaz3179
@theresaanndiaz3179 2 дня назад
I was born in 1955 and until high school, I had school clothes, play clothes, and good (church) clothes. Also school shoes and play shoes. We usually got a pair of sandals for summer.
@sophitsa79
@sophitsa79 2 дня назад
Your colour composition - your clothes, hair, makeup, and set - is perfect and gorgeous!
@kevinorr6880
@kevinorr6880 4 дня назад
A very interesting view of history. Thank you. The more things change, the more we are the same.
@kfries1282
@kfries1282 4 дня назад
I'm fascinated by the percentages of how much different items in a budget cost in different eras... Sure we spend a much smaller perportion of our income on clothes now, but in the pie charts you offer, they spent under 15% on rent in 1919... Now you're lucky if you're only spending a third, and in my area it's not uncommon to spend 50-70% of your total takehome pay on housing
@sewmeonekenobi639
@sewmeonekenobi639 4 дня назад
My first house was built in 1887 and the closets were super tiny. But still, big enough for several outfits.
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
And they only needed the current season of suits or dresses hung up! The rest was in drawers or trunks to keep the moths away.
@faeriesmak
@faeriesmak 4 дня назад
My house was built in 1883 in rural Wisconsin and there were no closets originally. I assume they used chests of drawers or pegs. Luckily closets had been added by people by robbing the ends of hallways or just building one in a corner by the time we moved in!
@BattleAxe1345
@BattleAxe1345 4 дня назад
I thank you for bringing up the CW estate inventory search! I have never come across that before and will be a big help in my research and understanding in that regard.
@lyndabethcave3835
@lyndabethcave3835 3 дня назад
I love that the conclusion of this is basically "we wear underwear as outwear now".
@kikidevine694
@kikidevine694 2 дня назад
It blew my mind, when I seriously got into historical costuming, that this has been the case for the past 100 years. And then I realised that that's around the time that central heating becomes widespread beyond the richest households.
@jeremiahandkateprater9972
@jeremiahandkateprater9972 День назад
For me one of the things that this highlights the most, probably bc it's a personal peeve, is you can see the exact moment at which the nation or at least its lobbyist turned against wealth tax. That moment in the 1960s where the average working class family went from 4% taxes to 13% taxes. And that even in the industrial period there was a concept of the living wage for "minimal comfort." It's a more honest phrasing IMO--"if you pay people less than this, you are denying them comfort," vs minimum wage that says "you're generous if you pay more than this."
@jacobshanbrom6776
@jacobshanbrom6776 4 дня назад
You are my superhero, this is the video I never knew to ask but have been looking for all along
@sarahcasey7172
@sarahcasey7172 День назад
All through the 1970s our clothing always had that ILGWU tag, was made in the U.S. and very expensive. We had a few school outfits, a couple pairs of loafers, and play clothes. We wore everything until it wore out or we outgrew it. Grandma sewed us our special clothes!
@anaerobic
@anaerobic 4 дня назад
Yay! I cannot get enough of this topic
@johannayaffe2647
@johannayaffe2647 3 дня назад
It was interesting to see how Princess Kate had a "old" dress revamped for the Trooping of the Colour on Saturday...
@kirstenpaff8946
@kirstenpaff8946 4 дня назад
Good God, what fantasy land do modern budget makers live in where 25% of income is sufficient to cover the cost of housing?
@VeretenoVids
@VeretenoVids 4 дня назад
You have to remember that those numbers are averages. Living in NYC and having housing with only 25% of your income is a folly except for the wealthy. Where my sister lives in rural IL, it's pretty easy to adhere to that budget recommendation.
@French-Kiss24
@French-Kiss24 4 дня назад
I grew up in the 1960s. I remember when we moved to a new house and they had separate closets in the master bedroom. It was a luxury. My dad commuted to NYC and had several expensive suits, as he was a corporate executive. My mom had her closet, in what we would consider a small closet today. We have more clothes today, but they are not well made unless you spend a fortune. Skirts were always lined and the stripes on garments had to match. I had sweaters from the Shetland Islands. Pants for women didn’t really come in until 1969 or so. Yes, we had pants (lined), but they were for sportswear, not town clothes. What I want to know is why wool now itches. I grew up wearing wool. Now I can’t wear it. Is it that I’m older, or is the wool not of good quality?
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
Could be the type of age of animal (merino, alpaca, cashmere ,mohair?), processing methods/chemicals, length of fibers, how the fibers are spun and plied, etc. Also, our skin changes as we age . Some people have challenges tolerating dyes or cleaning chemicals.
@VeretenoVids
@VeretenoVids 4 дня назад
@@eileencarroll6418 This. I've actually had the opposite happen--I simply couldn't tolerate wool next to my skin at all as a child and now I knit clothing for myself. HOWEVER, it has to be an ultra fine wool. A few years ago I knit myself a lovely colorwork hat out of high quality Shetland wool, but it made my forehead red and very angry after wearing it for only 20 minutes. Wound up having to give it away.
@karladenton5034
@karladenton5034 3 дня назад
@@VeretenoVids My solution for that is to pick up stitches around the edge, knit a "liner' of merino or merino/silk - whatever you find the least allergy tending - then turn it inside out and slip stitch the 'liner to the inside of the hat. I did this for several beanies for my son when he was in the military and essentially hairless due to high and tight haircuts.
@VeretenoVids
@VeretenoVids 3 дня назад
@@karladenton5034 Thanks!
@katwitanruna
@katwitanruna 4 дня назад
It takes me seven hours to make myself a full length linen tunic with pockets. Because pockets. Including the shirttail hemming.
@ultimateskillchain
@ultimateskillchain 2 дня назад
The depth and nuance of your videos are always such a refreshing standout in a world of "shorts" and reels and attention-grabbing but often simplified at best, inaccurate at worst content. Love your work, Nicole. (and the way your hair, shirt, and the lighting on the back wall all match! Rock that arsenic Scheels green 😁)
@penelopebunce
@penelopebunce 2 дня назад
This reminds me so much of my fashion history classes! I just graduated uni and took a minor in fashion, and I learned so much. I realised that fashion history is my passion but idk how to get a job in it haha. But love the video!
@kassywilson7292
@kassywilson7292 19 часов назад
My mother went to college in the late 1930s with four blouses and two skirts. They were all hand-me-downs from her two older sisters who did not go to college. Her family was not terribly well off (her rich aunt paid for her college). She had to wash out her undies in the sink every night in order for them to dry fast enough for her to have enough to get through the week. She and all three of her sisters sewed, and could restyle the hand-me-downs, but they couldn't afford much cloth.
@trustdeuniverse9057
@trustdeuniverse9057 4 дня назад
I just love your content! Thank you for all the sources and pictures- your channel is a true gem!!!❤❤❤
@cherylspear1633
@cherylspear1633 4 дня назад
Loved this! You’ve included so much great info. Thanks so much for sharing your vast knowledge!
@maripicelli2304
@maripicelli2304 4 дня назад
Nicole, thanks for being so amazing! I've been watching you for 2yrs, your content amazes me every time. You also (constantly) influence me to move back to my sewing projects, so I cannot thank you enough ! :)
@MiffoKarin
@MiffoKarin 3 дня назад
I love your historic deep dives, they're always both fun and informative!
@debatthebeach433
@debatthebeach433 4 дня назад
What wonderful research you do! 💖💖💖
@VivieLeigh
@VivieLeigh 3 дня назад
What a wonderful job you've done researching the topic and making the video. I appreciate the effort and hours it took you to read and compilate all the information. The montage is great as well, I really enjoyed all the pictures from old catalogues and vintage videos. Thank you for the great content!
@karenfrances
@karenfrances 4 дня назад
I love the way you bring us fashion history and found myself pausing on the charts multiple times. I'm always curious as to how one does research like this. I would love a video on your favorite sources, so I can explore more on the topic! Thanks again for a well-researched post.
@patriciadean1649
@patriciadean1649 4 дня назад
Your presentation is both captivating and extensive research-thanks ❤
@elizabethdavis1696
@elizabethdavis1696 4 дня назад
I love your capsule videos for the cruise you took! Please do some capsule wardrobe instructional videos please!
@WaysideArtist
@WaysideArtist 3 дня назад
Excellent study! Thank you for sharing your fascinating research.
@BryonyClaire
@BryonyClaire 3 дня назад
This was utterly fascinating and i love how you tackled this topic!
@quietmindstitcher9326
@quietmindstitcher9326 13 часов назад
Just love love love this video! So very interesting and I love you explaining your methodology and reasonings and assumptions.
@MINI-ME666
@MINI-ME666 4 дня назад
super great presentation!
@missvioletnightchild2515
@missvioletnightchild2515 4 дня назад
This was so interesting, thank you very much!
@sarahwatts7152
@sarahwatts7152 3 дня назад
So going with the concept of wearing underwear as outerwear - according to historical benchmarks, most dresses would be automatically lingerie dresses? Makes me think about the Outlander books (not the series, I decided I'd already imprinted enough on the books, the series would feel obtrusive to my imagination) where Claire is treated radically differently the first time she time travels because she's seen as being out and about in her underwear
@kikidevine694
@kikidevine694 2 дня назад
Most dresses would be seen as the shift, only being worn over the support garment. Lingerie dresses weren't actually underwear, as they were designed to be seen, and worn over the chemise, corset, corset cover, petticoats, etc. I think they are called lingerie because they are light, and frothy, and Lacey, similar to the embellishments which were popular on women's underwear at the time. Claire is wearing bra, panties, and possibly stockings under her skimpy 1940s dress. Not even what a poor woman in the 1740s would be expected to wear unless she was a lady of negotiable virtue
@cinemaipswich4636
@cinemaipswich4636 2 дня назад
When we see the movie "Breakfast at Tiffany's", we see the beautiful Audrey Hepburn wear the same Givenchy dress 4 times. Every time it is "fashioned" into 4 completely different styles, and the accessories change with the style. You just don't notice it at the time. When looking at the past records that Nichole displays, it is sad to see that rent (over 100 years) was about 15 % of income.
@eileencarroll6418
@eileencarroll6418 4 дня назад
Another great video; always interesting to understand how perceptions change with culture. So many moving pieces. Geography, rural vs. cosmopolitan resources, supply and demand all affect changing norms. I love the name Ann Eliza. What a great name for an analytical character in a morality play!
@erinmalone2669
@erinmalone2669 2 дня назад
I knew I would get a very thorough analysis on your channel.❤
@Celebrinthal
@Celebrinthal 3 дня назад
I absolutely love this analysis!
@SusanBoyd500
@SusanBoyd500 4 дня назад
Thanks for the great video! I appreciate your high quality research and materials work!
@philurbaniak1811
@philurbaniak1811 4 дня назад
👍👍 really fascinating insight here, thank you for this one!
@orbitingcomic
@orbitingcomic 4 дня назад
Really interesting and must have taken you a lot of time to research! Thanks for the insightful look at this.
@Everywhere2
@Everywhere2 4 дня назад
Exceptionally informative. Thank you.
@antrazitaj5209
@antrazitaj5209 4 дня назад
I have a capsule wardrobe but I still have some redundancies in there. Also for layering in the winter. Going completely minimum is a problem the moment the tinyest problem happens
@therebelcostumer
@therebelcostumer 2 дня назад
Not me finally having time to listen to this while doing stitching on our research day at the Tailor Shop. 🤣
@happycook6737
@happycook6737 День назад
My dad grew up in the 1940's in a poor family in the American Midwest. His mom sewed their clothes. He had 2 shirts, 2 overalls, 1 pair shoes, 1 pair boots, 1 heavy coat, mittens, socks, a hat, 1 pullover sweater, 1 cardigan. His mom sewed the clothes in the late summer. At the end of the school year his shirts got made into short sleeves and the overall got chopped into shorts unless it was the right size for little brother. Dad was the middle brother so he got hand me downs. Oldest brother got the new clothes
@jjudy5869
@jjudy5869 8 часов назад
My mom got blessed with a build that was not like her older sisters, so she got new clothing as the hand-me-downs didn't fit her. Being seven years younger than my sister, I didn't wear hand-me-downs either.
@WantedVisual
@WantedVisual День назад
The comment of a fridge being possibly part of minimum comfort threw me. My German 1952 school cookbook chastises high school age girls with such lofty dreams as marrying someone who would provide them with a kitchen that had such lavish things as a fridge. (This 3 paragraph guilt trip was followed by advice on how to store raw meat up to ten days in a household pantry.)
@lonewolf8667
@lonewolf8667 3 дня назад
A new winter coat every fourth year?! I only have one winter coat which is at least 12 years old. For underwear I dangerously close to doing the Seinfeld method, wear it until you can open the window and let the remains of the underwear go out like dandelion spores. I'm one of those that dream of a small clothing collection of such a high quality that it can last for decades. After watching this video I guess the forever lasting high quality wardrobe is just an unattainable fantasy.
@alenacraig
@alenacraig 4 дня назад
Faboulous video!! Lovely graphs!!
@mypieceoftheinternet
@mypieceoftheinternet 4 дня назад
At 16:40 you incorrectly mention that the US median household income is 75,000. That is actually the mean or average income. Median income is closer to 35,000 and would make the $1500 on clothing a lot closer to the 5% budget frame. Thanks for the great video!
@NicoleRudolph
@NicoleRudolph 4 дня назад
Individual median income was $37,585 in 2022, but household median was $74,580. While it does matter that we usually have a two income household today, because all but one of the examples were for households instead of individuals, it didn't make sense to adjust. Especially since two incomes still means two people or more to clothe.
@charischannah
@charischannah День назад
I'm going to be teaching a class in the fall on visible mending (I work in the arts department of my city), and I'm curious to see what kind of participation we end up with. The lower quality clothing is, the harder it can be to mend it and have that mending extend the life of the garment for a decent amount of time (a lot of stretchy fabrics have that problem), but basic repair can still make a big difference for quite a few things.
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