The apparent turbo lag at lower revs is the little plastic arm that changes warm/cool air direction to the induction air. It wears at the far end and drops off. A new one costs about £6! It is located towards the left end - as you look at the engine - after you take the sound damper 0ff. You need to look quite hard to find it, but once you do, it'll help when the new arm drops off, which they do from time to time, especially when booting it.
I paid £1800 for my 61 plate V70 R design and I haven’t looked back. It’s cat S i picked it up from a salvage yard with full history, including cam belt and water pump ,110k miles and 2 keys. Needs minor body work on the rear quarter that i will eventually get around to fixing but it’s a great car with decent spec. Yours looks really nice for the money you paid👍🏼
The leak comes from the rubber hose between refill pipe and the tank ,it’s a small hose about 15 cm and it’s hard to replace but not impossible I done it on my Volvo
Fantastic, thanks for pointing that out. It gives me a place to start. That makes sense, because it's only leaking on the side of the car where the fuel goes in.
You'll need to drop the rear sub frame just enough to access the small rubber pipe. They are a pain to get out. Depending where you are go to Tim Williams Racing in coalvil👍🏾. He is the volvo guru of the UK
Fuel leak probably around the top of the pump. There have been recalls on that over the years. Not sure if your model is included but it is worth checking. I would not ignore that as it might be dangerous.
I'd personally leave the chrome strips and the colour-coded mirrors as they are. It has the right amount of chrome (dark colours really suit hints of chrome).
Yes, there could be more issues and there could be fewer issues considering the mileage. That's why you didn't buy the first banger of Volvo V70 MK2 you came across, right?
Car looks great, I’ve had 22 of these so far, I would clean the EGR and run an injector cleaner through. If the car isn’t telling you there is something wrong then it has likely mapped to accommodate the reduced power output. Otherwise, wait until the warnings come on and trace the issue. Rear spoiler finishes them well. Remap works but doesn’t wake up fully until the DPF is removed (emptied)
Great vids on the V70, I've recently picked one up myself! I was wondering though, what's the splitter that you've put on the front bumper? It makes it look that tiny bit more aggressive which I really like.
Just subscribed and really enjoy your presentation style, knowledge and choice of everyday affordable cars. Look forward to viewing past and future videos. Thank you.
There are two fuel senders in the tank,one on either side. Changing the fuel pump on these cars is a bit of a faff,you can do it from inside the car. My suspicion would be that someone has changed the pump and not done a very good job, possibly damaging one of the senders. If you look under the passenger side rear seat base there is an access hatch to get at the left hand sender. If the left hand sender hasn't been tightened down properly the o ring will leak, especially so on this side as the o ring is submerged in fuel constantly if the tank is approx three quarters full. The o ring on the drivers side of the tank is much higher up and less likely to leak. There is only one pump in the tank (on driver side) but it has a pipe on it which also picks up fuel from the passenger side of the tank (there is a hump in the middle of the tank to clear the exhaust) The pump works in a bit of a weird way, it sucks up fuel from both sides of the tank but it also pumps fuel from one side of the tank to the other, probably to keep the levels balanced on both sides of the hump in the tank, it should give about 18 psi fuel pressure on the feed line to the engine. If you decide to take the pump and senders out you need to get everything really clean before dismantling, there is a special tool to undo the clamp rings on the tank (dont bodge it by trying to whack it with a screwdriver and hammer!) Finally,once you have the clamp rings loose, get a small pump and drain the tank before pulling the pump out. Be very careful not to get any diesel inside the car or it will stink it out for ever. Reading this back confirms that I have become a Volvo D5 nerd!
I'd firstly look into the fuel pump not being seated correctly into the fuel tank. That would cause fuel to spill at maximum level as it will have plenty of room to overspill at a high rate and the sender unit not indicating correctly due to the fact it's probably got limited movement. You will probably find that the fuel tank is covered in fuel on the outside and your fuel leak off path to be near the rear of the sideskirt. Also the scale on the sender unit would have worn locally thus making the indicating issue worse. Had the same issue on a used BMW E46 quite a while back. If that is the issue you will probably require a new gasket/ O-ring as it's probably pinched and a new scale. Good luck, hope it's an easy fix.
Thank you! I'm buying an 04 Volvo V-70 5 cyl Turbo. I'm having it quality ck'd and the Dealer is fixing all defaults, such as driver's side window, ck engine light and engine motor mount, which appear to be the only faults. I think you will b able to fully get your fuel tank replaced and gauge corrected in due time. Sorry your having to deal w that problem.
Personally I'd keep the chrome strips, looks good against the dark. On the lack of low down grunt I'd recommend checking the rod for the swirlflaps. It's a common issue on the euro 4 d5s. If the flaps fail in the "right" position it won't go in to limp mode either and you might not even notice that they aren't working any more. Symptoms are lower mpg's and a bit less peppy low down before the turbo spools
Great video!! With reference to the fuel leak, I would be inclined to check that the filler hose hasn’t perished or that the clamps haven’t become loose on said hose. With reference to the low down power, they can be a bit sluggish. (See later mention about TerraClean). If it’s an auto I’d suggest a gearbox oil change and software update... it’s not that expensive. It’s always worth checking part prices with Volvo (speakers and sender) as they’re usually reasonable. Something else I would recommend that I did to my S60 D5 was carry out a TerraClean. It transformed the acceleration and fuel economy... it was like a new car... it went from being fast to URGENT!! In failing that, it could probably do with an Italian Tune up using V-Power Diesel!!
Keep the chrome! 😉 But if you dont, give me a shout because mine needs replacing! Great videos. On our 3rd V70 now (latest a MY2005 £1k 2.5T), can't beat them as cheap family wagons of you're prepared to get the spanners out every now and again.
I have a D5 myself now. Replaced: ac compressor, wheel bearings, alternator pulley, serpentine belt, tensioner, rear brakes, rear dampers, and all lightbulbs. To get it MOT ready: Front dampers, sorting the handbrake, new rims+tyres, and rear sway bar end links. Got it for 1000£ (a good condition D5 goes for £3-4000 here) Apart from the issues, it’s been an epic car! 2002 D5 with 225000 miles and runs like a dream, cheap on fuel and epic sound (non DPF on mine luckily) Love your V70 man :)
Well played, it should be set for another 225k miles now! Great cars those D5s. Not so thrilling to drive but amazingly comfortable, refined (for a diesel), economical and practical. Enjoy!
Nick Egan I will! Love the car more than I though I’d ever do. Runs smooth and goes well. It was either q dreary Toyota or the V70, and since I’ve owned 2 Saab 9-5’s I thought to risk for a V70. Don’t regret it for a second.
The rear spoiler really helps to keep the rear screen clear in the rain, rarely do I need the rear wiper more than intermittent. The Sport pack spoiler, if your car is Barents Blue, code 466, then the Pt No is 39993 978-4, but I suspect it will have to be in primer, 39985 288-8. You transfer the high level brake light from the rear screen to the spoiler. Some drilling is involved, you will need a hole cutter, but remember the tail gate is composite, not metal, so dropping the cuttings inside is ok.
Ive got a S60 2.4 D5 .Ive had it from new and its done 120k. The few issues ive have mainly been with brakes especially the handbrake and more recently I've changed the soot filter . Im going to change the timing belt at the next service as ive heard they can perish and snap and that could write the car off as its book value is only about £1.5k .
Those volvos are known for having an ‘on / off’ throttle hesitation which might be what your feeling. It’s to do with the mapping of the engine - I had the same car and when I had it remapped that low revs hesitation disappeared.
Not sure if you’ve sorted the problem but throttle lag is common on common rail diesels. Might not be turbo at all. I suggest you spend a few quid on getting it terracleaned. Had my 2002 V70 2.4 TSE AWD done a while ago and it was worth it. Recently had my Jag XF done which is diesel and it made a huge difference. Even the wife noticed!!!!
Definately colour code that chrome, possibly swap the headlights for all clear (no orange indicator) or if they aren't available just do a small black smoke over the orange of yours? With the turbo lag have you checked the small vacuum hoses? Mine had a crack at a 90° bend so it wasn't visible but under pressure it was expanding and delaying the boost a hell of a lot. £4 worth of hose fixed it
With regards to your feeling of turbo lag, it's probably down to the age of the DPF. At 180,000 it's going to have a lot of ash in it. The Euro4's EGR system works by generating a pressure drop across the EGR . It does so by altering the VGT vanes on the exhaust side and throttle position on the intake. It's what's known as a high pressure loop EGR and they don't come without their problems. If DPF gas flow is reduced due to ash accumulation, it will push up the exhaust manifold pressure amd the ECM will then compensate by throttling the charged air supply. My D5 felt like yours, then I put an aftermarket DPF pressure sensor on that wouldn't adapt to the ECM and was under reading the pressure drop. The result..... well limp mode after a couple of miles. However, before spitting it's dummy out, it was like a completely different car. The change in bottom end response & power delivery was unbelievable. You could tell just from the sound of the exhaust that the engine was getting a lot more air. Keep an eye on you instantaneous MPG. If it keeps dipping to around 36mpg at cruising speeds, it's dropping into regeneration too often. If you have a scanner with live data, an EGR fixed at 95% closed is another sign the engine is in regeneration.
Your fuel leak might be a cracked rubber. The fuel filler is a metal tube with a rubber joiner between the tube and the tank. Mine cracked and it would piss fuel everywhere, but only when the tank was full. It's a cheap part to replace: Volvo P/N 9141423
I have a 2009 2.4 V70. I have owned it since 2012 and bought t back here when I relocated. Love it. But I want to respray it and wonder what it would cost and any ideas where? Live in the Midlands.
Forget the cosmetic titivations, concentrate on the mechanical issues. The car looks fine as is. Fuel leak and turbo issues require your attention first, and could both potentially leave you stranded at the roadside if they worsen.
Good comment. I much prefer to see a standard, unmolested car with money spent on it where it counts - a matching set of premium tyres, all mechanical issues sorted etc. Messing about with cosmetics for messing's sake is a bit tragic.
@@nickegan3988 "Messing about with cosmetics for messing's sake is a bit tragic" AHAHAHA epic comment. Agreed tho. However my son wanted transformers badges on Amy, my 05 S60 2.5T, so I guess I'm guilty........
In regard to your turbo issue, I dont believe it be an issue, I have a 2003 S60 with the D5, that is the same.... goes like stabbed rat when you feed it the onions, but fair amount of lag low down. They are also bloody heavy cars.... Weigh the same as a retirement bungalow with a portly grandmother inside.
Some cars suit a little modification here & there but a Volvo is an understated classy brand, personally I'd maybe go for a slightly bigger set of wheels but only from within the V70 range.
Me again - the D5 does have wicked - bad - lag, so just keep your foot in! Seriously though, the lag thing just needs 'learning', then it isn't a problem, as long as you never expect instant power. On that front, a stage 1 re-map gives about 200hp, which the engine internals can easily take (the later Mk3 V70 D5 215ps/210hp version has the same internals), and a red line of about 4,800rpm, 0-60 up from about 9 to 8 seconds, and top speed up to 140mph from 130. There is tons of low down torque, pulling from 1,200rpm, once the short lag period allows. There is none of that waiting and waiting in top gear for something to happen, just a second or two for the turbo to spool up. Volvo tried, not entirely successfully, to lose the lag on the Mk 3s with a twin turbo set up; a high rev lightweight one for quicker spooling, and a bigger one for higher engine speeds. Not worth the extra cash to get one of those. By the time the Mk3 had done this, and added a raft of other environmental controls, it would never get the 50+mpg I frequently get from my 2007 Mk2 D5 with 140k on the clock. With later Mk 3s it is hard to get better than 45 on a run, and you're into the low 30s if you boot it. Contrary to what a lot of detractors say about the Mk2's handling and engine etc, I love chucking mine around, and never get below 40mpg at that. And comments about how 'rough' the D5 unit is is, well, daft. Mine is silky smooth, and very quiet. Nuff said. Keep up the good work young sir, I, like many others, like your 'real world' style, and the fact that you present older, but significant, cars on this channel. Good luck.
This car with the 2.4 Diesel engine can carry you 500K miles if you keep everything in good condition. They are indestructible when taken care of. For the speakers call around scrap yards. I'm sure you'll find a few old V70's where you'll be allowed to take them out. However if you suspect a problem with the turbo see to it that you fix it as soon as because it can break the engine on these.
Great car for the money Luke & I would leave the exterior as it is but that's just my opinion. I would check the fuel pump in the tank, the issues you mentioned could all be related. I got a 2005 S80 D5 with 172k on the clock, after doing 20k in it myself it turned out the car had been running on just the pump on the engine (I found out when that one eventually gave up) the one in the tank probably hadn't been working when I got the car, it's quite common for them to fail by the mileage you V70 has on it.
I reckon you should leave it as it is. The D5 is a good car. But in my opinion dont colour code the bump strips at all. What I would do is lower it by 35mm and obtain some volvo v70r pegasus alloys. Would look very smart then👍🏾
Get rid of the chrome and put an egg crate grill in. Is it possible to access the fuel sender without dropping the tank. With my V50 it is not possible.
Hey Luke, nice one about the video. I used to use a Company called LBVolvoSpares.co.uk a few years ago. His name is Leigh. See if he has some speakers for the front doors for your 2007 V70. Chrome wise used to come with the higher spec models. I think the sport models had colour coded. The V70R models do have thos trims colour coded. Not sure about the wing mirrors. Get online and see if others have done it and see how it looks. Love the front splitter. Good work so far man. Best. Roheet 👍🙏
Are the variable vanes on these vacuum actuated similar to a VAG of similar era? Could just be a worn actuator or a leaky hose? Only mentioning because I replaced an actuator after 150k on my mk4 golf as a matter of routine and low down boost response was noticeably better.
Are you 100% certain its your speakers? The hu850 headunits on the p2s are a known weakness and can give similar symptoms, just seems strange that both speakers have blown
Hey, last thing, promise... The fuel thing. Try the filler pipe-to-tank join. Volvo say mine has a 70 l tank, but I have squeezed 75 in before now, when it says only 20 miles left in the tank. So it really is pretty empty. They clearly don't want you to truly brim it. partly because of the pipe union, but also because the tank is plastic, and will bulge if you really do brim it. You are supposed to stop filling when the fuel station pump trips. I can get another 7 or 8 litres in after that point, and as mine doesn't leak, I will do that on a long run. Up to 900 miles on a tank, how cool is that?! I believe Volvo deliberately made the filler down pipe convoluted precisely to stop people over-filling. It may be that the previous owner of yours regularly brimmed it completely, and caused a weakness somewhere. It is a bit of a bugger to get to the downpipe though...
Not too much in the way of difference between the V70 and the XC70. I have the XC70 petrol with 220k miles. They both are smashing good cars. As far as changing the outside features, I say leave well enough alone. You really don't need the silver mirror covers or bumper change and from a distance it's still a reliable and classic looking car. Interior compliments the exterior color...
That car is freaking immaculate. For $750?! Even with the faults this car would have been 5 times that in the states. AT LEAST. You can hardly get a depressing barely running beater in the USA for less than $1000.
