Great video man! This really helps a lot. I have my Iag aos coming this weekend that I will be installing. Cylinder 4 cooling mod is next and then the other stuff you mentioned in the video. Maybe not the ELH though 😅. Love the subie rumble haha. My next step is adding a down pipe paired with my Cobb SF intake, but I want to make my car happy with reliability mods. Thanks again man!
I did all of these things and still had engine failure. Backstory on car: purchased from a small local subaru shop with a 0 mile oem subaru shortblock. drove for a year, maybe 14k miles. head dropped a valve guide and was burning a valve up giving me misfire codes. Heads were rebuilt and all mods and tuning were done. Was tuned on 91(10% ethanol in my state) to make 312wtq/290whp. Still killed an oem rod bearing in about 8k miles. Mod list- accessport, Killer B headers, grimmspeed downpipe, cobb 1050's, tgv deletes, air pump delete, IAG AOS, cyl 4 cooling mod, grimmspeed 3 port ebcs, grimmspeed cai, killer b aluminum turbo inlet, killer b oil pickup and windage tray, 8mm phenolic spacer for intake, IAG fuel lines and rails, aeromotive fuel reg, AEM 340 fuel pump. Now, I come from a family that races motorcycles and I know how much abuse those bikes can take, trust me it's a LOT. I knew that the Subaru was not going to live up to those kinds of expectations and I did not drive the car like a rally car all day every day. did I hammer the throttle on freeway ramps once in a while and rev it at fellow subies? absolutely. did I hit the rev limiter not shifting soon enough from 1-2 a couple times? sure. At 60ish wtq over stock I expected a lot more durability and now I'm sitting here with a shopping list that totals over 10k just to make the car reliable at any power level other than stock and fix all of the crap that's contaminated with bearing material.
I have a wrx forged with elh amd water_meth 438 whp chinesse radiator... broke the wall on cylinder 3 after 55k miles tuned never a problem with coolant and cylinder 4
Finally pulled the trigger. stage 1+ redline package, cobb aos, cyl 4 cooling and a protune from a great place on the west coast. Watched your videos about a million times and I know you sold the whip but just wanted to say thanks. Im sure I’ll drop you questions as I go but Stage 1+ is the farthest I think I’ll go for a few years…I think LOL. Thanks again man 🌴 😎🌴👍🏾 P.S. Which car cover is that?
for my 02 wrx, as a daily drive, running 230hp. my mod for reliability is GS AOS, IBR Cylinder 4 cooling mode, and just maintain with good engine oil. Always oil change every 3,000 miles.
Ahh I can't wait for the meet up! I didn't get a chance to go to WBM this year to see your car. Absolute inspiration and I hope to make my car that clean one of these days
If you mod with a rotated turbo setup, that includes closed deck block and heads, bottom end and top end (valves, springs and retainers, cams and bowl blend), etc, etc , reliable, close to 30k id say
@@Scoobyfreak86 mine is in the process to go rotated, precision 6062 gen 2 with a T51R mod, and closed deck long block, hopefuly by the end of this month the block is ready before I take the STi to the shop🕧🕐🕜🕑
Good list 👍. Some apply to FA platform as well. AOS, radiator, pick up tube all apply. Have AOS and Swaintech on my 2015. ✅ Pick up tube on the list. Just hoping to find larger capacity oil pan for FA first.
After watching gears and gasoline. They installed all the reliability mods and the motor still blew, those EJs motors are just a ticking time bomb. I highly suggest having 5-10k for a built motor just to be reliable.
Incorrect. Ben’s motor blew because they later found out the motor was already out and built by someone else who did not rebuild it properly. His car was also used so the maintenance history was unknown.
@@Scoobyfreak86 I applaud you for your maintenance and knowledge about EJ motor. I love the EJ but you may never know until you dig deep enough like ben did. It had 5 owners, engine replaced and driven cross country without no issues but still blew. That is why I recommend having a built motor in case your EJ decides to detonate.
I’ve owned about 6 turbo EJs, all with power levels over decently over stock, driven hard and have never had any catastrophic failures. I’m starting to think it’s the owners, not the engine.
Awesome vid! Still have a lot of things to learn since im new to this mod/tuning. I know you need a tune for ELH, but what about the radiator and oil pain kit?
How much would a shop or official subaru service centre charge to do the cooling mod ? Damn id be worried if they wasnt done properly as the damage would be catastrophic right ?
how you manage to put the perrin strut bar and the AOS together, i wasn't able to put back, the AOS was sitting to low for the oil to return by gravity, how did you make it fit and be high enough for the oil to return by gravity?
@@Scoobyfreak86 Cool, thank you, i did that, but few months after i make some other upgrades and i discover oil on the y pipe of the intercooler and throttle body as well, thanks for replaying!
My tuner who has built and tuned MANY of these cars (specializes in subaru) said that none of this stuff really helps. He insists they will pretty much all blow up eventually and that upgrading the block and internals is your best bet. Apparently he sees these cars blown up with all of these supporting mods on a pretty regular basis.
It honestly all depends. People buy these second, third, fourth, etc hand with no knowledge of history. It can happen, but how the car was treated plays a huge roll in the overall fate.
@@Scoobyfreak86 oh I agree. I baby mine for sure but I know the risks and I’ll be modding the heck out of mine, just like yours hah. I still think a stock block on these cars is a ticking time bomb regardless. Just gotta have fun while you can and rebuild once it goes Definitely an IAG stage 2 tuff block in my future
Do you have a list laying around with price and possibly links? And would it be smart or possible to upgrade day the oil pump as well for added assurance?
I got everything through my shop so no price or list. I paid whatever whatever the prices are today. I wouldn’t do the pump unless you do a full build and putting out some serious power.
I got a question for u I live in jersey and I have a 16 sti with stage 1 + tune from Cobb and a hks bov and it failed inspection today cuz evap and oxygen sensors aren’t ready but the battery was never disconnected and I put like 1000 miles on it.
Is the check engine light still on? if so, that is the reason why. You'll need to clear the codes with an accesport or someone who has a code reader to clear the codes. You can't have any engine lights on the dash.
This may be a dumb question but if the unequal length headers are the cause of the heat issue in cylinder 4 does the equal length header swap resolve the issue or do you need to do both the header swap and the cooling mod in order fix it?
The block is actually the same. It’s the internals that they updated. And yes, there isn’t anything that can bulletproof the motor besides doing a full build. But I am confident that if you maintain it correctly, modify it right, and take care of it that way you should, you’ll have a very reliable and trouble free ownership.
That’s up to you. However, these modifications could potentially help you from ever having to use your warranty. Although, that’s entirely up to you. If you are worried about warranty, leave the car stock.
You’ll need a tune, yes. The accessport doesn’t have any ots maps to support el, but a custom dyno tune will be needed and can be done through the accessport.
Would be as beneficial for an n/a motor. It could help keep the valves cleaner in the long run, but I don’t think there are many options out there for n/a motors since it’s not needed as much as a turbo’d vehicle.
I'm guessing these are upgrades that require a bit of skill and tools to install? I have zero experience modding my sti, so should I just buy the parts and take them to a trusted shop? I know the best way to learn is to do it myself but in my opinion the risks far outweigh the rewards
That entirely depends. It’s always good to get your hands dirty and learn, but if you are uncomfortable and would rather have a reputable shop install, no harm in that.
Been some updates since but this is the jist of it. Different power level now with an upgraded turbo. Guess I need to make an updated video! STI Updated Mod Overview ru-vid.com/group/PL5DDC2capRJstmeyBngYm688PwtoK6wEd
As much as I want my sti to produce more power… Wouldn’t it be reliable to keep everything stock or oem? I’ve heard owners keeping theirs stock and it lasting pretty much forever. I also see that when a subie fucks up in anyway, they sometime have “realizability mods”. I’ve never seen a stock subie blow up or anything. What y’all think?
