Bought my Kia new for 12K in 2002 and 16 years later it's still going strong. Best thing I ever did was get out of that "replace the car as soon as it's paid off every 5 years" mentality.
Kia's are not very reliable compared to Toyota (and Lexus), Honda (and Acura), Ford (and Lincoln), or old Dodges (not new ones). But no car is really very well built, they're all built to a price point and they're all sheet metal with an engine, tranny, and cheap wires and hoses.
Breaks my heart when I see people replace their perfect car with a new one, likely on payments, after the old one is paid off. I’ve heard every rationalization in the book for justifying the purchases.
Dave just gave someone advise to get a car payment! Never heard that from him before! but totally made sense for this couple's situation. D. R. Is the man
They already have a car payment. Sure you have. Dave doesn't tell every person who has a loan to sell their car. After it is paid off if it is not too expensive to keep, then save up cash for the next one.
My dad drives a 1998 honda accord v6 with over 300,000 miles. Original motor and still runs strong. No oil burning and passes smog. 90's Japanese cars are the best. Commutes around 180 miles a day round trip.
I am also a road warrior. I drive about 20k miles a year. I found out the best thing to do is get a 93-2000 Honda Civic or accord. Every part is cheap, and most things you can replace yourself. I payed 400$ for a 1997 accord. I’ve ran it over 6 months now with minimum problems.
domestic fans always talk about how expensive parts are for foreign cars... i've never ever found this to be true... i could do the brakes all around my accord for less than 200 bucks rotors and all... calipers were like $60... and in 7 years thats all the work it needed lol
Buy a 5-6 year old Civic or Carolla for half the price of new. I did that and still driving the Civic 15 years later. I love having a few hand tools and motivation to get things done.
I think Dave is just being realistic about their car situation. He knows that advising the husband who is a "road warrior" to get a $2k car is bad advice. The guy will be broke down on the side of the road within weeks and will be spending money left and right to keep the car going. I think them getting a modest loan (which is what they had already) to get a $5k+ car is reasonable for their situation. I've said it a million times but my Honda Accord was the BEST vehicle I ever owned. He could easily find something similar for $5k and drive it throughout the rest of their debt free journey. Good luck!!!
The Former Mrs Jones I'd say a $3000 is also reasonable depending on their mechanic situation as well. I have a 2012 sonic I paid a little over $3000 for, I put between 40 and 50k on every year and it just rolled 200k. I've taken it on 1500mile road trips and will be going to Canada soon without a worry. I also have the access and means to for example put a new motor or whatever in it for like $500 when need be though. Coincidentally, my ram also sits a lot (13mpg running premium vs 32 on regular)
No I agree with Timothy, people don't know how much of a car you can get for under $4,000. They can easily get a fully loaded reliable car with under 150k miles for under $4k if they know their stuff and do the research. I'm in highschool and bought and 2002 Acura Rsx sports coupe for $2150. It's fully loaded all the options and has a honda engine that's super reliable and gas never let me down. It's easily one of the better looking cars on the road too.
Bryan Olvera nope I'm slammed on coils with rpf1s, spoiler delete, wheels powdercoated bronze with ceramic coated black paint, cat back, intake, type s body kit, rear diffuser, esparco seats. Anyways um what do you drive mr critic?
Sell the Dodge 3500, depending on mileage could get $15-20k out of it. Buy 2 cars with the money from the truck and pay toward the $1,600 upside down situation.
If you don't own a set of wrenches, sure. I spent 1k on a suburban and i put 5k into it over 2 years. Now it's bullet proof. If you're a soy boy, sure get an expensive car.
@@Terror1Void How many miles a year to you put on this "bullet proof" Suburban? I used to own a Suburban, it was a money pit. By 98,000 miles it was so worn out it was cost prohibitive to fix, and yes, I own many wrenches, but I'm not stupid enough to put my career on the line for a shitbox.
It's got 269k miles. Seems like you don't wrench. 350 sbcs are the cheapest and most plentiful parts wise in the USA. You ask for miles, you actually are putting the easiest amount of work on your car. My wife does stay at home mom stuff around town, so she's actually putting more wear and tear on it than your 50k. Learn to wrench my friend, it's incredibly fulfilling.
Problem is, the guy whom spoke that gave no proof that Dave actually said that. Don't believe everything at face value. How do you know he's telling the truth and not a troll? *Logic*
I have a 2008 Yaris with over 200,000 miles. My commute to work is 1 hr 15 mins (one way). I put on over 100 miles a day. Oil change every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil since day 1.Bought her new 10 years ago. Best purchase I ever made.
As Dave said, we don't wanna cram the poor guy into a subcompact cuckmobile when a large part of his work day consists of driving. A decent sized car can be had for not much more and still be affordable based on their household income.
Ha! We have been Debt free since Aug 2015 including house & land. Two income family living on less than one income. and yes, we completed this journey in a Toyota Yaris. Weird!
I drive a ’02 Honda Civic handed down from my father-in-law who bought it new. I do my own maintenance so there's minimal maintenance costs, no depreciation, low insurance ($25/month from Insurance Panda) and registration costs, no car wash expenses (I park it outside when it's raining) and people think twice before trying to cut in front of me. Did I mention that it's super safe?? It's a comfortable ride on the highway but is also nimble on dirt roads. I could easily afford a new car but then I'd have to fuss about dents, scratches, car washes and all those other costs. It's got a 3.1L V6 that achieves 30 mpg on the highway. As long as it continues to pass smog it's a keeper.
$500 in 2005 for a dented 92 Camry w 150K. I still have it today at 450k. Timing belts and tires and most expensive was oem catalytic converter. I punched out the old one when it plugged up and drove it almost 2 more years before I bought a new cat. Car still going strong. I recently saw a clean 2005 Civic w 180K for $1500. clean and tempting. Saw 2008 Land Rover.. free for the taking but blown engine. Stay with the simple tried and true cars.. no exotics/Smart/Coopers/Audi etc.
Maynerd Yes a big one with a car lease it is works like fancy renting with mileage limits and you can't pay it off instead you return it at some point those are the terms.
No, HIS truck is like 15 years old. But he started driving HER leased car for the new job. Honestly, the wreck probably saved them money because can you imagine turning in a leased car that's got tens of thousands of extra miles than the lease contract stipulates? That would have bankrupted them (it would have made more sense to buy the car at the end of the lease than pay the extra mileage fee).
That’s why I bought my Scion iA used because I knew I was going to be driving a lot. It’s been a great car and will likely keep her a long time. My dream car is a brand new Honda Mazda VW lol
Just get a nice Ford Crowne Vic. Gets about 25mpg. It's not top heavy and it's heavy so it won't get blown around in that CO wind. Tons of room, they run forever and they're cheap. Only drawback would be snow.
Crown vic TCO is far too high to justify. People got that stupid idea in their head that they're low cost low maintenance vehicles and they're not. They're money pits and gas guzzlers.
Who else dove into the comments to see who else noticed that Dave endorsed some sort of loan? I'm shocked? I don't think he's ever said something like this before
Dave has given similar council before. It's usually about taking a small loan for people who are upside down on a car that's way too expensive for them. They owe say 30K on a car, make 50K a year and have a ton of other debt. Trouble is they can only sell the car for say 26K. So get rid of the huge car payment they need an extra 4K. Better a 4K car loan than a 30K loan and they have then just attacked 26K in debt.
No...he advises the debt snowball because it's actually proven to work for more people. It's about behavior modification. Getting some quick wins so you keep at the process. What the point of having a "better plan" if it doesn't actually work for the person implementing the plan. There's a recent short vid that Ramsey did regarding a (i think it was) Harvard study that looked into different debt reduction techniques. It found the debt snowball to be the most effective method for most people. Took the egg heads in academia 20 years to figure out something Dave an a lot of other people knew all along. Success in personal finance is 80% behavior. Until you change your behavior the 20% that is actual math don't mean squat.
Never heard Dave say, yes go get a loan! They really had no other choice in their situation and once they put that in the debt snowball they will be fine! Great advice! Such a common sense smart guy!
Every time I look fir a used Honda or Toyota they are racked up in miles! Hard to find one that’s meets the eye. But I’m in the market fit one for I’ll keep looking
I drive about 1100 miles a week to commute to work. I do this is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Paid $1800 for it and just keep up with regular maintenance. Never a reason to lease a new car
So I wish I could ask DR directly but. Here goes. We have two cars paid for. A 2013 Corolla and a 1998 Volvo wagon. No problem there. The only thing is, our 3 kids (14,9,almost 2) are getting big and we almost don't fit on either car -the Volvo is a bit more comfy, but still not enough if inlaws or friends are riding with us. SO... We are discussing a minivan or a 7 seater SUV. We could either trade in the Corolla (10K) or sell the Volvo for about 2K. Thinking about a 22K used Sienna or Highlander. What would you do? Our income is pretty tight at the moment -we're gonna start renting our basement in order to stay on the black.
Why would an $8-10000 need to be sold every year with 50,000 miles? If you buy a car with 100,000 miles and it's still going with 150,000 miles why not take it to 200,000 or even 300,000 miles? You'll have the money in your emergency fund to buy another or to have it fixed right away if it breaks down.
Toyota is probably the most reliable car, cause my dad owned one for years and raked like 400k miles. He replaced the engine before selling it and it was only $1700 to replace. Runs like new again before we sold it.
Scott Cameron I’m a professional mechanic; the Toyota Camry is far more reliable than the Accord. 15 years ago they were neck and neck as far as reliably. Honda makes very weak automatic transmissions. If I were to buy a Honda of any kind it would be a manual trans. Toyota’s just last if you keep up on maintenance and they hold their value. God bless
Buy an used American car. They depreciate like crazy and lose half their value in the first 3-4 years. It will still be relatively reliable compared to a 6-7 years old Honda or Toyota for the same price....which are the years when problems start to appear.
Honda makes the best engines but their transmissions are terrible, a Toyota would be a good bet and he could probably run one up to probably 300k without losing much reliability if he takes care of the maintenance.
Very practical advice for this situation. Debt for debt, then snowball it. OK - different scenario - Same thing - drive a lot for work, but totaled the car with NO LOAN, but you have NO MONEY to buy a new car. Not an easy debt for debt solution, WWDR do? What would YOU do? Gotta have a car to work and make a living. Loan or no loan? (for this situation, no savings, no resources to borrow from a relative, etc., just flat broke and you are on your own).
Cause you misunderstand as the dude loses his job and they have no money with no car. If people have a loan, he doesn't tell them every time to seel the car and save up cash. You no understand. You and the 26 other slow folks. Replacing existing debt with the amount of debt given the need for a car is needed and they were already in 8000 of existing debt. He's just taking the accident out of the equation and ensuring she doesn't go deeper in debt then before the accident.
Dave never mentions how much transactional fees can be when buying and selling a car. Insurance, tax, registration, unknown lack of maintenance problems add up in the end.
intellijente he should at least touch on it. Everything is variable in these calls. Try losing a few thousand on transactional cost and then let me know if it is feasible to sell your car.
Daves advice on cars sucks..always buy a cheap new car for about $12,000 with 100,000 mile warranty then trade it when the warranty is done..the cheapest way to go.
@@chadhaire1711 Can't buy a comfortable 'road warrior' car for $12K that is brand new. He would have to spend at least $20K for Brand new. However $10K will buy a lightly used Camry/Accord which makes a lot more sense. 10K of depreciation for losing 40K miles. Better to get out that depreciation early.
Yea this was a tough one. At first I'm like "10,000 car and replace every year, that 800 plus a month on a car" but then I thinking at 50000 miles a year no car is gonna last more then 3 or 4 years. I think they should fine the most affordable AND reliable car possible. For me that would be about 15,000 but that all depends on their income. At the end when you consider their income a 10000 thousand car sounds about right. However in a year that car will be 2000 because of the high miles. Now their about 8000 on a car that doesn't work. Wow. He needs to find a closer job.
Bought 3 used cars for $18,500. Owned them for 8, 3, 3 years, respectively. Can sell them for $20K. Maintenance, insurance and improvements for all totaled $10K. Each has a utilitarian purpose. I do not understand how people spent $30-$50K for new cars. What a killer on the budget.
I never thought I would buy a brand new car. Then we found a brand new Mitsubishi Mirage for $12,200. We could not resist. It has been a great car and we now have only have about 41,500 miles on it. Hopefully it will last us four or five years before I sell it.
Replacing existing debt with the amount of debt given the need for a car is needed and they were already in 8000 of existing debt. He's just taking the accident out of the equation and ensuring she doesn't go deeper in debt then before the accident.
I paid my car off in 2014, and I shall NOT buy another one until I have to. I happened to buy this one on impluse (stupid), but it turned out well in the end. My current car only has 48K miles on it, and I put them all on starting in 09.
Oh Good God!!! The people listening to you that call in all manage to prove in one way or the other why they had to call in and you get right to the specifics with sensible detailed advice each and every time!!!!
OK feel free to chime in! I started driving for Uber 6 months ago. As you can Imagine, I put about 40K miles a year according to my mileage tracking. I have a 2003 Toyota Avalon, a great car. Here is my dilemma. I am very limited to what I can drive because of the age of the car. In fact, I can't even drive for Lyft because of their age requirement of a car. I can only drive Uber X and Eats. I have recently signed on with Favor as well. What I would like to do is buy a pre-owned luxury sedan which will enable me to drive Uber X/Select and Lyft/Premier/Lux. I also do private rides and work about 6 hours a week for a friend's swimming pool company at $25/hour. I'm tapped out on hours per week I can work. I'm 56 years old and just can't move as fast or work as many hours as I used to. In the end, I work about 59-60 hours per week most weeks. Here is what I'd like to do. I want to buy a luxury sedan. I'm thinking something like a 2015 Jaguar XF. The cost will be anywhere from $19k - 22K. I believe I can get my payment financed over 4 years at about $550 per month. However, because of the expanded income variables, being able to drive for higher paying rides and more ways to get them, I believe I can make at least $1500 per week. Right now, my average weekly pay is about $600 per week. I'm barely surviving financially. But doing the math, $550 per month payment to make $6000 per month isn't a bad idea. It will allow me to save money for repairs down the road, and have money left over at the end of the month instead of the other way around.
Best thing for a road warrior is to get a re-built title car that runs really good and replace it every 2-3 years. You can get a good car already fixed for 60-70 percent of book value.
it's rare, but I disagree with Dave on this. Don't buy a $8-10k dollar car and then do that every year, just because he drives 50k/yr. For $10k you can pick up a well maintained 125k mile Honda/Toyota and then go put another 150k-200k miles on it, assuming you maintain it. I picked up a 4 year old, loaded Accord EX-L (back in 07 or 08') with 75k miles on it for around $12k. Sold it for $1200 years later with 331k on it. I was a "road warrior" too. My current 09' GS350 has 186k on it and runs like a swiss watch. I'll put another 100k it before I look to get something else. Stick with Toyota's and Honda's and you can pay them off, then continue payments to YOURSELF, build up your cash and then when it's mechanically done....go pay cash for your next used Toyota/Honda.
He's mentioned buying and selling cars on other videos i've seen and I never quite understand how he thinks you can buy a car, drive it for almost a year, and then sell the car at the same price you bought it for? i can understand a few months maybe, but i swear i've heard him say something like that for 10 month older car.
If you get a good deal on a car you shouldn’t lose too much money in a one year period but you may have to put some money with the rest of your sell price from the car , for example you buy a $10k Ford Focus and it’s worth $12k when you bought it , 50,000 miles and a year later it’ll be worth $8,000 so you sell it and put $2,000 with it and buy another $12,000 car for $10,000. When Dave says buy a car he means from a private seller because you can get better deals that way and you can sell it for more that way than trade in or selling to a dealership . I bought a Corvette for $4000 less than what it was worth because the guy wanted to get rid of it Before moving to a new state . Gotta find the deals and make your money valuable.
I thought the advice here was good. One thing I was wondering, though....is it really necessary for him to be a road warrior? I wonder if it's even worth it.
What Dave doesn’t talk about is the opportunity cost to buying a car with cash. If you fork over 20k for a cash a buy it straight up that’s 20k that you can invest to generate more money for you. So In the long run assuming you get a great deal for your lease, leasing will leave you with more money.
Yeah but listen to this lady. We're talking about a person who's in so much debt they have to have a "debt snowball". I'm very doubtful she's going to be able to 1) get a car loan with low interest 2) have the investing skills to beat that interest rate.
Sometimes you will get a lemon 🍋 Camry and/or Accord. I've had both unfortunately. I still believe that Toyota and Honda are top brands, and would buy again. Still have a Camry Hybrid, Sienna Van, and Avalon Hybrid.
Can't go wrong with most Hondas and Toyotas.. Alternatively any Ford with the 4.6l v8 (Crown Vic, Mercury Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car) is very comfortable and reliable car. And any GM with the 3.8l v6 (Buick Park Avenue, Impala, Buick Century) are bulletproof cars.
Im a car guy, I've owned 5 priuses since 2010, i drive about 80k miles a year. My latest prius is a 07 with 403 thousand miles, never gave me a problem. I would recommend a 05, 06, 07 prius with 80 to 100k miles. That would cost about 4 to 5 thousand.
stupid advice....that battery will die at 100K and cost $3,000 to fix. A Yaris gets same mileage on the highway and a used one will cost $5K and last longer.
chad haire not stupid, you can buy a reconditioned battery for 600 and 250 to install. Or 1200.00 for 100k miles with installation included. Don't talk unless you know.
"reconditioned" battery... LOL....yeah that will last a while......or you could buy a Toyota Yaris iA for HALF what a Prius costs that gets 42 mpg on the highway--same as the Prius.......... and at 100,000 miles will still be running fine....and it takes 100,000 miles of driving on a Prius to break even on the hybrid costs vs fuel savings, so if you spend $1,000 on a used battery at the 100,000 mile mark you are in the red again....no real savings pal. DO THE MATH. Hybrid cars have the "Feel Good" factor but they are NOT economical to operate overall compared to an economy non-hybriid car......... unless you are running a taxi fleet at 200,000 a year..then you just might save a few bucks......
chad haire Looks like the yaris is for you, ive owned 5 priuses all of them had 350k miles, no engine/trans or battery issue. Low maintenance on the cvt transmission. Im talking out of experience. Yaris is a good choice as well, i could care less about 7 mpg difference. But you called my advice stupid... you can Argue with someone else, i got other things to do. Later
Should you trade your car in and buy a new one while your existing car still has value, or should you keep your existing car and drive it forever, but have the trade-in value go to almost zero? With the problem of When you want to get a new car, you have no trade value to help with the cost?
He needs a four-cylinder Camry. You can probably put 300,000 miles on that car without going in the shop. And because everyone wants trucks the dealers are practically giving them away
Timo Hacks I can’t right now, my son took it to college 10 hours away to New York. But I’ll see if he’ll send me a pic of it’s odo. I was in NY a couple 3 weeks ago and I drove it. It’s dark red, barely accelerates and shifts rough, but it still drives. No ac or radio.
Get an E46 wagon with a 5 speed manual for like $2k and invest $800 in parts and that thing will be solid and safe for a good 100k Miles before you have to invest another $800 in to it.
chad haire he is right, if you do it yourself, i bought a 136k miles e46 bmw, put $800-1000, refreshed cooling system/suspension, good for 80k-100k miles. German cars are more durable, Japanese cars are more reliable.
AREK: VOID: You can always save money by doing it yourself--so what? That can apply to any car. and who has the time--fine if you are a high school kid....a working professional doesn't have time to tinker with cars unless it is a second car for a hobby and that German car that has 100,000 miles is going to break down--not a good idea when you are on your way to work. E46 is over 15 years old--get serious. A hobby car NOT a serious daily driver car. Buy the cheapest car with good warranty like KIA or Mitsubishi for about $12,000 with 100,000 mile warranty--if you have to make payments do so--far better than buying a used car that will need repairs..Dave Ramsey advice to buy a used car is BAD ADVICE.
3:46 "That's usually an $8-10k car." No. It's a brand-new $25k Prius. Driving is expensive. Using a $10k car for a 50k miles per year job won't change that.
Buying any new car is pretty pointless as you're going to lose value right when its driven off the lot and then a lot of value after the first few years. Whereas if you buy used you can dodge the biggest hits. I think new cars should only be for people with money to burn.
That thing just doesn't make sense to me. He says buy a 8k to 10k car drive it for 12-18 months and do it again. Thats stupid. The person is better off BUYING (not leasing) a brand new car for 25-30k on a very low interest rate(many japanese cars offer new cars for 0% interest rate)for 5-6 years if he/she doesn't have the cash for it. In that way you'll be spending 5-6k a year on a car with little to no maintenance, will have a warranty if something goes wrong and at the end when you do want to get rid of it, you'll still be able to sell it for 5-7k( if maintenaned well). So at the end of 5 years you spent 4-5k on a car with peace of mind.
FYI, if you drive for Uber, you will put on 175-200+ miles per 8 hour shift. Essentially, Uber is the absolute fastest way to put miles on a vehicle. If you drive Uber full time, it’s not unreasonable to put 100,000 miles on a vehicle in a year’s time.
My advice I bought a late model truck from insurance auction low miles with few body shop repairs I saved 50% true has salvage title but I've put 80 000 miles so far
But with luxury cars, depreciation takes it down to 10,000 (from 100,000) fairly quickly regardless. So would it really matter if you rack the miles and enjoy it for a good 5-7 years (expected life of modern cars) and repeat? I respect the commentary in regards to the question, but this is more a question about general practices.
Does the employer pay a car allowance or mileage? What about getting the car Dave recommends and then wear it out? It'd save the bother of changing each year.
I don't agree with Dave that swapping cars every year is a good idea. First of all, the tax on a $10,000 car is $625 where I live, and probably much more in other states. Second, I just bought an $11,000 BMW with 65k miles on it. It would be stupid to sell it next year with 85k. It can easily go 5 or more years before becoming a maintenance problem, and a $10,000 Japanese car could do a lot more than that.
if your work requires you to put that much miles on your car than your job should pay for your car in some form. i know plenty of business that give field technicians a car allowance. that being said if you get a cheap car that's reliable u can actually end up pocketing a large portion of the allowance. i drive a company vehicle. otherwise i'd be putting 100-400 miles a day on my car.
I'm curious where Mr Ramsey lives such that he thinks you can find a 'good reliable' used Honda Accord, or Toyota Camry for $8,000 - $10,000? I had to look at the date of this video and it shows 2018. Here in Florida you can not touch a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry with under 100K miles on it for less then around $15,000 - $20,000. You might have been able in around 2004, but not now in 2019.
Toyota Camry or corrolas can be bought all day for around 5 grand with over 100k Miles and being 10+ years old...You may think that sounds crazy but for those types of car's, they're just getting broken in after 100k miles, and will likely have lots of life left.
Not where I live if it has under 100K on the odometer. You can find such vehicles for $8K - $10K with 200K + miles on the odometer. Such a vehicle will need work. If not now, probably in the near future. Employers today will not put up with "I couldn't get to work on time because my car would not run or broke down". Where I am in Florida, if a person misses a couple days of work there is a good chance they will get fired. Unless you can walk to work you need reliable transportation and a 200K mile Toyota Rav 4 is not reliable transportation. I see plenty of Toyota vehicles along side the road broken down. Now, you can find good cars in the $15 - $20K range with around 40 - 60K in the odometer and sometimes with some warranty left.
@@archangele1 i call BS on Toyota RAV4s with 200K miles fetching $8K-$10K in Florida. total BS. look at autotrader. toyota is the most reliable car brand - your anecdote of seeing toyotas broken down on the side of the road is irrelevant. literally look at the stats. buying used toyotas is the way to go. and again, your #'s are complete BS
That Dodge ram is most likely a dually with a 5.9 Cummins in it. Those Cummins diesel motors will go for hundreds of thousands of miles with proper maintenance. I understand they don't want to run the miles up on it, but it'll get you where you need to go. She could get a little Honda to scoot around in.
Country Folk Financial very true, but with gas and maintenance cost of the 3500 you'd be better off getting a 5k car and driving it for several years. personally I'm not a fan of rolling it ever 12 months or so. id say let the car tell you when it can't handle the 50k per year anymore. a couple hundred in repairs a year goes a long way oncr the car is paid for. :)
Christopher Poirier I don’t think so , if it’s a 5.9 diesel yea you will always have maintenance , but drive that it will easy go hundreds of thousands miles . That’s way better then just keep getting a difference car every year , you are losing more money that way.
chad haire lol you are calling people idiots making a ignorant statement when you are the one that’s uneducated and 100% wrong . Maybe 30 years ago that was true , but quality has come a long way . Even my 2006 ram Cummins never had one issue with the body , beyond normal maintenance with over 200 k . It’s not the body that fails , it’s the electronics on today’s newer trucks , diesel is the best way for them because of the mileage , it will hold value longer and more reliable. Even my dads 2011 ram 4.7 has 140k not one problem with the body , or motor again one thing went out was electrical .
10000 a year? Why not buy a new civic for 18,000 and it’ll take the beating and you won’t need to lose money each year selling your 10,000 car. Am I missing something?
She did not leas the car, she financed it. There is a difference between a lease, and a finance. A lease is typically for brand new cars and it lasts between two and three years. Sometimes less. It sounds like she financed the car, a 2003 Nissan Marano doesn’t get least in 2018.
People are very unrealistic about comparing maintenance cost on a used car to depreciation of a new car, repairs/ Maintenance are not all that expensive.
He has a dodge Ram 3500 I'm sure it's a lifted diesel truck gets 12 mpg he doesn't even drive because his commute is so far he takes her car and totals it also a lease car which I'm guessing exceeded the miles or something why they ended up with owing $1500.
Buy a used hybrid or plugin hybrid vehicle. Most are very reliable, drive great. I got a 2013 Volt in early 2018 with 133K on the odometer, traction battery in great condition for $10K after sales tax and registration. Originally was a $40K car
